Thank you very much for this great video. 💪 I instinctively setup my controls based on the standing trail position but will still review it. A lot of the advanced tips will be really relevant once I decide to start participating in some races. Cheers mates ✌
Please can you find the best MTB events in the UK this year and give us the run down, I need some inspiration and goals to get me out there in this sh*t weather.
@@robinbreeds9217 any ideas who would, you can usually find specific event videos usually a historic report but I haven't seen any video guides on good 'worth doing' events for the this year. 👍
I sized down recently and I like it. I always rode large, but lately with newer geometry like on the Giant trance x 29er being large felt big to me, I recently picked up a Giant Reign E+ 3 in Medium and it feels better to me. I am 6 foot on the dot. and on Giants website I am in between bike sizes medium and large.
The one place on enduro bikes where I am a firm believer in 220mm front rotors is enduro E-bikes, the extra weight of the e-bike really justifies the big rotor up front. For me personally, I'm happy with 203s on both ends on a regular enduro bike even has a heavier rider. One trick for shaving weight on your drivetrain is to run a 10-45t Shimano cassette and a 28t chainring, that gives you identical climbing gear to a 51t cassette with a 32t chainring, you just sacrifice some top speed on the pedals, though I can't think of many people that could spin out a 32t chainring.
You missed talking about handlebar height; seems this is an important setup especially for enduro - most pros keep it low whereas some people think they need to convert their enduro bikes to beach cruisers
High stack with not quite as crazy slack HTA is the newest trend. It's supposed to give you much of the descending feel of a super slack bike, but with less of the drawbacks of a super slack bike. Though these days on an enduro bike they don't consider it super slack until you're at less than 63HTA, but a lot of bikes are staying at 64HTA and raising the stack to compensate.
Megatower, using a fork fork to store some basic first aid gear. Other than that I would say getting the contact points dialed as well as tire pressure. I just do what works for me. Carrying spares is also a necessity, as is having water.
The suspension component of this video has been such a point of contention. I used to run 30% sag front and rear until I watched a video that explained sag in a way that was finally clear and logical to me. I believed that running 30% in the fork was a softer more plush ride. The video suggested 20% (again, in the fork) puts me higher in the travel and would ultimately be more comfortable across roots, rocks and chatter saving more travel for the bigger hits. I tested this and I (so far) have to agree. I rode a trail I am very familiar with and must say the fork behaved and performed better at 20%. I am about the do some bigger enduro trails over the next few days so will make the ultimate comparison...but thus far I am moving up to 20% in the fork.
It sounds like you're heading down the right track for you! With bike set-up its all personal preference. With running a firmer fork keep an eye out for arm pump and front wheel control over the chattery stuff. If you feel more planted and you're not getting tired then 20% should be right for you 🤙
@@gmbn You know what? I did one run on this DH/flow and had the worst arm pump at the end with 20% in the fork. I rode straight back to the car and dropped the sag back to 30%. I gave it a go and am happy I did the experiment but I concur with you, 30% sag is where it's at.
For those how actually want to setup there suspension don’t watch this video. The sag is completely wrong recommended sag is like 20% max on the fork. I would recommend to watch the video from Pinkbike, just overall more accurate and helpful. I’m a bit disappointed 😔
Flatter levers puts more of you hand behind the grip instantly lessening the chance your hand can come off the handlebars without the need to grip super tightly.
With regards to the dropper, I got a 200mm dropper for my Enduro bike… A 2018 YT Capra. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to put it all the way in. With it fully extended when it was as low in the frame as it would go, it was about 20mm higher than I needed to be. I put that dropper in to my trail bike, which ended up working perfectly, so it didn’t go to waste. I put the 180mm dropper from my trail bike in to my enduro bike, which was still a huge improvement from the 150mm dropper it came with. I still have an issue with it though. When I clamp the dropper in the frame where it’s comfortable to climb, I keep hitting it on downhill. When it’s clamped as low as it will go, the dh is perfect, but climbing sucks. I have it in the middle now with preference to downhill. Climbing is much better, but long climbs kinda suck, and going downhill is better, but the saddle still occasionally gets in the way especially when jumping. What are your thoughts on what I should do?
Find the overall extended length of the 200mm you had, then look around and see if you can find another 200mm that has just a little bit shorter overall length. Not all of them are the same, so you might find another 200mm travel post that is 20mm shorter overall.
In wet weather like in UK, it is not a good idea to keep masterlink exposed to open air that leads to corrosion sooner or later. Especially tucked with duck tape that may contain chlorides in its glue.
pros run rock hard suspension because they prioritize speed over comfort. And even then they may change that between stages and run more plush on long stages to reduce arm pump.
Less Psi doesn’t mean that it is softer, the first part is usually softer and so if you have less psi the the softer part is not available and consumed by the sag. So the suspension can feel worse
It will make the whole stroke softer, if you run too low of a pressure and your sitting at the bottom of your travel/bottoming out then it will feel worse. Too much pressure and you won't be using the full potential of the fork/shock. It's worth playing around with pressure and figuring out what works for you!
@@gmbndon't forget about the tokens. Lots of talk(not here just in general) about adding tokens to stop bottoming out. As a heavy unit, I need high pressures to hit the proper sag numbers but then the fork is super stiff as you go through the stroke because of the progressive nature of an air spring. I remove one token because of this. Softens up the spring further into the stroke and allows the damping to do its job where there is finetune adjustability.
On the suspension side, the reason all of the riders mentioned run longer travel forks is because they are using Rockshox. The last 2 iterations of the Debonair springs are shite. They are all upforking but the travel at their disposal in order to make it usable is usually 10/12mm less. They are all forced to do that cause the first part of travel is kind of regressive and tends to lack mid stroke support. They resolve this by using a longer travel fork with less air and a couple tokens then sagging it a bit more. This basically removes the regressive part of the travel and it makes the fork feel supported. Fox sponsored teams don't have that problem.
the tradeoff for us mere mortals is the Zeb is noticeably smoother over chatter than the 38. The 38 definitely provides more feedback to rider inputs though and is more precise at higher speeds, tradeoff is you feel a little more trail chatter (it's still quite smooth over small bumps).
Most enduro bikes are overkill on the downhill and is a niche I don't get. Alot of stuff that's too tech or steep to pedal up you'll only need a trail bike to descend smoothly and safely. An enduro bike is just a downhill bike that has "Acceptible" uphill capabilities.
Yes a trail bike may be able to descend most DH trails ridden by mere mortals "smoothly and safely" the enduro bike lets you descend them "fast and fun". They also do not ride like DH bikes, I own an enduro bike, I've ridden DH bikes, they ride quite different from each other.
Depends on the course, on a rougher course they're gonna run inserts at both ends. The big thing people forget with racers is they will make big changes to their bike setup to suit a specific race course.
Im weight is 78kg.. i ride nukeproof mega 290.. my fork doesnt fit with hsc & lsc just rebound and compresion lock my rear shock rockshox ultimate airshock comes with hsc, lsc and rebound , my sag 20% front 30% rear.. my problem is my bike bobbing to strong like a pogostick when i pedaling on a flat surface even when sitting down pedaling..how can i make it less pogostick.. please advice 😅
I just purchased a new specialized enduro carbon with 180mm and 170mm at the back with its slack setting. Im 1.83m and would like to get 165mm cranks to lesson pedal strikes. How much does it effect your peddling ability negatives and positives?
I recently bought a Canyon Strive and spent so much time comparing geometry between size L and M. I'm 6 feet, and ended up going with the medium since it has a 485 reach in its longest setting (due to the adjustable reach). I'm comfortable on it, but second guessing myself; I wonder if I should have purchased a size large ? I'm curious if Rich rides a L or M on that bike... being that the Strive is so long.
Nah, you were likely spot on, the Strive is a HUGE bike. He referenced Jessee Melamed (who rides for Canyon), but Jesse doesn't size down, his size small Strive is just his preferred reach in the 450mm range, which would be his "normal" reach at 5'7" for most sizing guides. He also doesn't run a trail bike, he used a Spectral for the first 2 rounds of the 2023 season and has been on the Strive ever since. The other two riders he mentioned do size down, Ritchie Rude is 5'9" and in Yeti sizing sits right between M and L and he rides a M. Jack Moir is 6'1" and rides a size L YT Capra, which is actually pretty small for his height (The Capra has very short reach).
@@mrvwbug4423 You're definitely right ! I've now had a chance to ride it quite a bit in the last 3 months, including a week-long Enduro race, and never once questioned the sizing while riding. Its sizing feels completely natural at this point. Thanks though for the comment :)
I need schooling , just bought my first full sus for a long time and have fox flow rear shock and I’d like it firmer but scared to touch the switches 😂 iv a red switch and a blue switch what do I do ?? I know your all gona take the piss and that’s ok I’m prepared . Also iv rc pike forks but wherever I set the compression it appears to do nothing at least when stationary
Compression will make your fork/shock feel firmer, you'll notice it when ridding down the trail, from the sounds of it what you need it more air in the fork/shock. We have a video here that will help answer your questions! 👉 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7wMgCoKVlgA.html
Depends on your pressure. If you are heavy more HSC AND LSC will prob feel more comfortable for you. Otherwise Bracketing is your best bet. With 155LBs (70KG) i usually run around 2 clicks on HSC from fully open and about 3-4 Clicks LSC from fully open. Not too aggresive i think and plenty supportive.
I'm 250lbs and run my HSC/HSR in about the middle postion and only a few clicks of LSC/LSR, just enough to get rid of fork dive, any more and the bike will ride like a brick
My bike is a used UMF Hardy 4 that I got used for free with a huge chunk missing from its frame so we had to call someone to weld it, but the metal got covered up by black nail polish. It came with the cheapest 160mm mechanical disc brake on the rear with rusty screws and a V brake on the front, the levers are integrated with the shifters. I run mismatched tires both in terms of manufacturers and tread, a worn out 3x8 speed setup with a bent derailleur hanger so the chain constantly hops from one gear to another. The chainstay is wrapped in electrical tape to quiet the slapping chain which doesn't work. The bottom bracket is open so dirt constantly gets inside. Not sure the frame even accepts the screw-on style bracket. The RST fork which still has the V brake mounting pegs leaks oil which isn't supposed to be there in the first place. The front and rear mudguards are 2 sheets of bent 6£ plastic variety from Decathlon which have more mud on top of them than on the underside. The previous owner must've smashed the ground hard becasue the poor thing is full of battle scars. This video helped me realise that she needs some upgrades. Oh and maintenance, I guess
i can add it back on.....i use dowels and a wood lathe, and if that doesn't work i'll get out the welder if need be.......but i understand, not everyone has the tools
The television licence is the instrument used to raise revenue to fund the BBC. Businesses, hospitals, schools and a range of other organisations are also required by law to hold television licences to watch and record live TV broadcasts. Its worth it for NO ADVERTS on the BBC. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Television_licensing_in_the_United_Kingdom#:~:text=The%20television%20licence%20is%20the,and%20record%20live%20TV%20broadcasts.
Yeah that part is not necessarily correct, definitely incorrect for forks. Some frames recommend deeper sag on the shock, example my RM Altitude recommends 35% on the rear shock, which is more than most but the bike's kinematics are designed around that, you still run whatever the Fox setup guide recommends in the fork.
