The 100 is a 2UZ right? Yes a lot more moving parts in a dual overhead cam V8, but totally doable with good organization and attention to detail! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your videos and IG posts. Machine shop just told me they want to machine my 1FZ ‘20 over.’ Are there toyota pistons that fit this setup? Just the cylinders not the crank.
Yeah, Toyota sells a .020” over piston. You’re going to want to look at a parts catalog on Toyotas website and find the oversized piston. I’m running DNJs in this as a piston isn’t rocket science anymore and I couldn’t justify $800-$1000 for a set of OEM pistons. Safety, DNJ, ITM, etc all machine shops use them in rebuild and they have nothing bad to say about them. Even LCE uses Safety Auto pistons in their rebuild kits. I understand if you want to stay OEM though. Just depends what’s in the budget.
@@azbeeson I’ve never had a problem with aftermarket bearings and in this motor I’m using ACL rod bearings and Clevite main bearings. If King bearings weren’t back ordered for months I would’ve ran those - you’d be hard pressed to find a better bearing. Nothing wrong with aftermarket rings. Hastings is great for example.
Picked up a brand new factory short block for my 199780 series last year. Getting ready to put her together with a new head. Are you happy with your engine block paint? I'm on the fence if I should paint it or not
So far it has really held up great and I don't see any flaking, peeling, or chipping at all. Also I don't know if I say it in this video but I used basic Rustoleum paint, brushed it on. Check out the video from Uncle Tony's Garage. I used his exact method.
@@RM_Garage awesome thanks! Brushing it on is a brilliant idea, I'll look up tony. Bet Idaho is awesome, can't wait to move to Idaho or Montana Just need Idaho power or other utility to open some spots and I would leave Cali's largest utility. Thanks again, digging your content!
@@BillyGoatsAdventures Idaho Power isn't hiring? I will say my experience with them has been amazing since being here, and the power bills here are INSANELY cheaper than CA.
@@RM_Garage I interviewed with them a couple times years ago but it wasn't a fit at the time, but now we're ready. All our friends and family in the treasure valley have nothing but amazing things to say about Idaho power. Unlike the company I currently work for, I would be proud to work for Idaho power. The new shop looks great. Our house and property we bought back in 2011 had a 1400 square foot metal building on it and I'm very thankful all the vehicles I've been able to repair as well as restoring and building my '98 Tacoma and '97 Land Cruiser. The space really makes a difference.
Fantastic video as always. Great work on all the attention to detail! And your editing/filming has come a long way. You're right on track with the larger channels as far as video quality goes. Very engaging and visually appealing overall. Great work!
great videos mate, i really appreciate it ! I just got a question that i filed 1st and 2nd rings for specification of the gap, but what about oil expander ring? it is also over sized than bore like others, but i couldnt find infos for this. would it shrink itself(since it is shaped like spring) when piston is installed into the cylinder? i also filed upper and lower groove ring for the gap clearance.
Great video, thanks. Which adjustable piston ring compressor tool did you get from Summit? Looks like there are several part numbers. I was thinking the 4.00"-4.09" SME-90A4000 but wasn't sure if that was correct.
Hi, man, thank you very much for your excellent videos on 1fz! I am going to rebuild my motor as well and this is going to be my first experience. So when I by a pure chance met your channel on RU-vid, it is real gift for me. Thanks again, looking forward for the following assembly videos. Cheers
I want to see a 1fz blocked built for higher comp ratio for N/A to increase fuel economy power efficiency and higher rpm mayb fire ring the head for better clamping force some port matching cams valves etc. from factory these things are rubish motors chew fuel get like 400-450ks per 130L of petrol
Honestly I’ve built several motors and never once used OEM rings or pistons and never had an issue. Machine shops use aftermarket pistons and rings all the time with no issues. I know these 80 series have a strong OEM part loyalist crowd, but I believe it will be totally fine running these rings. Toyota more than likely uses a 3rd party to manufacture their rings as well, like NPR. Thank you for watching!!
A real doubt: why are you reusing elastic screws? Like, everywhere online and offline they say "once a elastic screw is torqued, if you loose you have to replace". Are Toyota ones different?
New short block from Toyota is like $4k, they come from Japan, and are sparsely located across random Toyota warehouses across the country if you’re lucky. I’m not 4k into it. Give me a second I’ll grab you the exact amount
About $1300 ($1278) into the bottom end here. I think when all is said and done I’ll be about $3000 into the rebuild. So $3500 because you always estimate low and you end up getting nickel and dimed to death. Also it’s not a daily driver and I think this is fun! Thank you for watching!!
Trust me my mind constantly goes “you could’ve done an LS swap” and I probably could’ve. And I might…in the future 😂 it’s all fun and games for me. Just having a good time with it.
@@RM_Garage Okay fair enough. And I guess once you're done you might as well have a brand new motor anyway. I bought a lx450 about 2 weeks ago and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew a couple days ago. I'm trying to figure out what to do now. So 1300 in the bottom end. What did you do with the head? I'll be watching the rest of your videos btw. Just curious what you did for now
@@brandonblackwell8932 since the head is a 24 valve they tend to be expensive to get resurfaced and have a valve job done. I’m looking at $600 for a 5 angle valve job, resurface, and new valve seals installed. None of that is 100% necessary if you’re just replacing a head gasket, but recommended since you’re already there. I’d wager most people hit the mating surfaces with scotchbrite and put it back together.
The oil in the liners is also because you don’t want the engine when started turn dry out with no pre lubrication on liners may scratch them, the firsts turns that the crankshaft does are vital and needs oil its what we call dry start if there ain’t no oil on these and that’s scary but the rest you did good
@RM Garage You seem to know the 80 series... since I sold my 85 4runner I am now looking for a 1993-1997 land cruiser. Knowing what you know now what year would you recommend? Thanks Keep up the cool content.
