Holy Moley this guy knows what he is doing! I've never seen such a completely thoroughly informative video. He literally walks you through each step and how to complete it "correctly". Very well done man. Please keep it up (for all of us newbies sake :D )
@@jonathansimmons6452 ha! because of his video, I have began the process! I get all my parts back from the machine shop tomorrow. Im a biochemist so engines are new but all his videos are detailed and easy to follow. Ill be rewatching videos all night. The Channel is great.
Fantastic Pete. A Great video. I bought a 355 sbc a few years ago that had been blown up. The silicon between the intake and the block was about 1/2 an inch thick and everywhere but where it needed to be. I knew as soon as I saw that it was poorly built with a lack of consideration. It had only be run for about a month before it calved, when disassembling it to see what had gone wrong, some of the cam lobes were nearly gone. Low mileage, I assume no assembly lube and poorly put together was visually obvious as well as internally.
Old school is to smear some grease on the tap, it'll pick up most of the debris loosened by the chasing out. Personally, I prefer to use a small "T" bar type tap holder but that'll be a question of preferences, of course. Another old school trick is to use a standard bottom/finishing tap but lightly grind the cutting edge so it cleans the threads but it minimises the chance of it removing parent material from the tapped part. Nice explanation on the galvanic corrosion problem, too, BTW.
I just watched all 9 of your engine building videos in a row non-stop. It's been about 6 hours. They're extremely great videos. I can't wait to see it finished.
Petes videos should come with a warning! it would read "To avoid conflict, anyone who watches these videos might not want to walk into their friends pro workshop and point out things that they missed, dont forget! no one likes a smart ass" Thanks Pete you make it fascinating.
That is an excellent point Bryan, thanks for your comment. I, in no way, shape, or form claim to be the worlds authority. But, I am trying to share best practices to help ensure anyone doing the work gets the best results. I've replied to many comments that say I'm over cautious that I've never had an engine fail from being too clean. If you do happen to wander into a pro shop, you can be polite as possible so as not to appear to be a wise ass. If they're smart, they'll try to learn from because nobody knows everything. I learn something new everyday.
@@PetesGarage agreed, just a bit of fun, I bought a 460 stroker well worked off a guy who bought it off a mechanic that died, motor was new, it made a terrible tapping when the guy I bought it off started it, i bought it anyway because hed never driven it just started it, revved it and turned it off, luckily it was so loud out the headers he couldn't run it long without neighbors complaining, well when I got it home I removed the rocker covers and they were all loose, I'm thinking that the original owner stored it that way (well I hope) problem is how much damage has been done as there is fine steel filings in the oil sitting on the head. .
Building a 383 sbc and your videos are awesome. THANK YOU! As you know, there are many other content providers for building engines, especially sbc, but your style and flow are the best. Your help for my projects has been huge, from painting to building the engine. Of course I subscribe and like your videos (hoping you make a few bucks for your effort), but if you are ever in California, I owe you a beer.
The galvanic issue is something you can't hide from: something has to bolt things up. I never had those numbers as presented, but in thinking about protecting aluminum... I'd rather the steel took the hit. Having seen both regular steel and stainless bolts have to serve in a saltwater environment right next to aluminum, I actually prefer staying away from stainless in critical applications because the aluminum fares better. For those who like the stainless look, you could nickel plate the bolt heads & washers for show [Caswell makes a decent kit], while leaving the threads alone.
Hi Pete, my Q is if you can help me? I don't know what cyl heads to buy for my 91 Ford Mustang 302 automatic with a BBK SSI 5001 intake. Most speed shop can't give me any good answer because they mostly deals with 5 speed trans. Please let me know what is your opinion. Thank You Noe.
Just gone from Part 1 to Part 9 and the things I have learned are invaluable, I am considering rebuilding a basic Toyota 4k OHV engine and this will save me from so many mistakes. You sir, are a bloody legend.
You're the engine surgeon...dude! That's a super clean build! Why not a anti-seaze on the stainless bolts or one of the thread lockers? Is anti-seize really wrong in that situation? Thanks for your awesome video!
Thanks David. Anti-seize acts as a lubricant and changes the torque values. i do not think it's necessary. A thread locker is also a lubricant and I only use sparingly in a couple spots, mostly accessory mounting bolts
You sound meticulous but as an engine assembler myself I have to disagree with using a tap to clean the threads on any bolt hole. A thread chaser is all you need to clean the threads. A sharp tap is liable to remove material and make the bolt hole sloppy and increases the chance of pulling the threads. I recommend thread chasers on any aluminum material and especially head bolt holes even if it is a cast iron block. A tap is for removing material not cleaning.
That is an excellent point. I do agree with you. There are different grades of taps, which determine how accurate the threads will cut. I was a cylinder head Process Engineer for GM. I can tell you that even on production parts the taps would be used for up to 15,000 hits. The threads cut near tool change were very small due to tap wear. I use a tap to make sure the hole it cut to the right size on brand new parts.
You were doing good until you smeared rtv silicone on the head/intake sealing surface. With the raised bead of silicone, embossed into the gasket, you don't need any sealer. I am sure you don't do this to your cylinder head gaskets. ONLY place that sealer is needed is at the "V" edge of the head & intake manifold.
You need some at the ends of the manifold over the china walls. You can go without any sealer if the angle for both the heads and intake are perfectly the same. The sealer makes up for small variations.
Bob Smith has never worked on an FE obviously. Printo Seal gaskets are a no-no FE engines. Also there is only a printed seal on the intake side of the gasket. Pete did exactly what he should have.
so what if I used aluminum anti seize on a bunch of bolts on my car? will everything start fusing and welding? it's ANTIseize.. it could actually weld parts?
OMG- When I first saw that *cork* Chinawall gasket- I wanted to *throw up*. Those are the most *useless* things ever thought up by someone! Cork in a wine bottle- ok. Q: Doesn't FelPro make a decent intake set? (silicone Chinawalls)
What sort of torque should an intake manifold be typically, Porsche say I should be tightening the final down to 11 ft'lb which I thought was a little low.
+AustrianAnarchy The raw answer is yes. However, a steel stud in an aluminum head will still experience galvanic corrosion and I would never use a non-metallic washer. Understanding what is happening and planning to prevent it is the best what to control it.
Tottaly, my son has a mustang. And recently wanted me to help him do some work on it. We started with headers and X pipe.Yea we had to drill out bolts that snaped off due to corrosion. He still has a problem understanding why ford would use such corrosive materials in manufacturing. I told him a lot of it comes from failure to understand how to prep your work. I let him watch your video to help him understand better. His first words after watching was" that was so simple he should send a copy to ford motor company." LOL Keep up the good work!
that is not a bottom. it is called a spirol tap so as you tap the threads come out and doesn't collect in the hole. a bottom tap is like a starter tap with no lead.
+AustrianAnarchy That is an excellent point. I have found a tap to work better when you know what you're doing. But a lesser experienced person should use a thread chaser...you are correct
Hi Pete, I've got a 4.6 DOHC Ford engine in my 95 Lincoln Mark VIII that switches between both long and short intake runners. I was hoping you could educate me as to why they felt this was necessary I am very impressed with the style you use in your tutorials. Your courtesy is very much appreciated. Thank You.
+Michael M That engine has two intake ports per cylinder (split-port) and variable runner length intake manifolds with either vacuum or electrically activated intake manifold runner controls (IMRC) depending on application. It also has variable cam timing so the intake length needs to switch to accommodate the difference in vacuum. I hope that helps.
Pete, please make a video about your Intake manifold and throttle bodies. I absolutely LOVE your idea. I have been looking for that kind of setup for about two-three weeks and I finally ran into this video. Just some questions I am looking for answers! How did you modify your carbs to only suck in air? Would an EFI carb work for this very specific application? How will you be working with the injectors? Thank you very much! You have supplied extremely useful ideas and knowledge and gave me even more desire and need to learn!
I have a video about making the manifold Modifying a Stock Intake Manifold - Adding EFI I used two Accel 1050 Throttle bodies Thanks Brian. Let me know if you have any questions as you build yours.
In regards to the galvanic coronation. I work at a resturant where we use stainless steel pans to bake lasagna in. We cover it with plastic wrap before the aluminum foil because the tomato sauce acts as the electrolyte. Just a different example.
Pete, I am replacing my upper and lower intakes on my '89 Bronco 351 EFI. How important would it be for me to use a thread chaser on the intake-to-head bolt holes? Would you recommend waiting until the gasket maker is "spongy" to install intake or do it when it's still "wet"? And finally, do you recommend gasket maker between the lower intake and upper plenum also? Thanks so much for your videos!
If you did not have a problem taking the bolts out, just clean out the holes with air. Install with the gasket maker wet for silicone, tacky for high tack. Yes, for the plenum as well, not too much though
I am having trouble with my 351W/427 stroker sucking coolant to the intake from the back (blocked) coolant passage on big deceleration (lots of manifold vacuum)..Ever had this problem? It looks like a blown head gasket but no oil/water mixing...
Try Permatex high heat "spray copper" form-a-gasket. Just paint the gasket surface. let stand for 1 minute till tacky then apply. no mess no fuss little if any squeeze out complete gasket surface coverage. I use 2 coats. 1 to seal the gasket and the other 1 minute later to seal the head surface wait 1 minute and apply. LOVE the idea of powder coating the intake inside surfaces. never thought of that. Talk about a time saver! THANKS!!
***** Wow! I would sit through all your engine builds with out a yawn. What a beautiful engine, with such precise perfection. I'll be rebuilding my Yamaha R6 engine for performance and fun, Even though these are meant for the car and truck guy, I have learned a lot watching this series of vids. Thanks for having long and detailed explanations. Great powder coating, Great machining and great vids!
Wow, great video! You mentioned you don’t like using a coating or lubricant because it changes the torque value. So what…..add some dielectric silicone grease to the bolt and snug ‘er down…. This is the same dielectric grease that has been used for decades on electrical connections that can and often do come in contact with water or high humidity. Just saying……Personally, I don’t put anything in a dry hole…..anything Anti-seize/thread lubricant on everything
This is exactly what I needed…Thank You so much. I’m a 60 year old beginner and this might be basic to mechanics but for me it answers all the unknowns… Best video and I’ve been searching high and low for help and for definitive answers.
I dont know if your building a street machine or a race car, but open plenums have more runner length, which is good for full throttle like a dragger(pro stock), the object is to have equal firing pressure for each cylinder , which is impossible with old stock 2 and 4 cast iron barrel manifolds, the new concept is to have all the intake runners the same length so the fuel pattern is the same for each cylinder, but since you are installing the injectors , the same distance for each intake valve , I dont see a problem with your set -up. A lot of tuners that install dual quad manifolds install carbs that are too big, and end up messing up the vacum signal, , same deal with cams, why bother to install a cam that makes power at 7000 rpm, when your driving on the street , at 55 mph and 2500 rpms, thanks for the tip about galvanic corrosion, I will no longer use left over nuts and bolts from the junk jar. +
+tom ashton Those are all excellent points. I'm building a street machine that will go very fast in 1 direction...lol. It won't be a daily driver, but it will be a nice ride to the track.
I am new to engine building and have no idea were to start. I have a 302 that came with a 65 mustang I bought and I am going to make it a 347 stroker. I have done sooo much research and I still have no idea were to start. I know you have to plan before you build and engine but what's the first thing to do?
one thing to remember about galvanic corrosion (i was taught) - the farther the metals get from each other on your scale, the greater the potential for corrosion. for example, copper and aluminum together - copper will eat it up in short order. copper and lead put together, almost nothing will happen. that is why you can have lead coated copper in roofing materials. but use aluminum nails on a copper roof, they will be dissolved by the copper.
I am familiar with the effects of dielectrics which are exacerbated by electrolysis. Dielectric grease is used quite frequently in my fuel of work and have a nominal affect when it comes to torque yield. In fact copper to aluminum electrical connections NEC (National Electric Code) mandates the use of dielectric grease. For plumbing you must use dielectric union when combining dissimilar metals. As the joint will attract any sort of debris through ionization. Since electrons are transfered from negatively charged particles to positively charged particles. All of this sounds completely horrible but can be extremely efficient at removing rust from parts you cannot access the inner surfaces of. If you are curious just Google rust removal by using a trickle charger.
Hello pete I have to say I've done Alot of research into car engines and engine building as I am looking into buying an old stingray and turning it into a daily driver hopefully but I have a question for you you talk about galvanized corosion but don't state ways to combat that for those of us like me who live in bad environments such as Washington state wet all the time and close to the ocean thank you your videos have been the biggest help in my research
+Keoni Pappas Galvanic corrosion is controlled by matching metals, the environment is secondary. Basically if you stick a stainless bolt into aluminum you're looking for trouble.
so do you put any rtv on the gasket around the bolt holes to keep them from getting coolant on them? and you said that you just install the bolts bare?
Just watched your intake manifold install. The tape on the China walls is a neat way to insure a very professional appearance to your finished build , thank you, you can consider that trick stolen. Have you ever used guide studs to set manifolds or other parts that do not have location dowel pins ? If not is there a reason why not ?
All of my tricks are free to steal. I have no top secret techniques. I have used guide pins for con rods and cylinder heads. They are a great idea but if you don't have them handy it takes time and money to get when a bolt works just as well. Not too sarcastic...lol
Wondering why you put sealer on the printo seal side of gasket? Felpro specifically says that side goes in dry. Need to do an manifold and this confuses me. Thanks
Can also use intake manifold studs instead of bolts. Fool proof way to install the manifold without making a silicone mess, especially if engine is in the car. Great videos.
You could...but you'd have to put the studs in after the manifold is installed because of the angle on the heads. I[m not saying no, but I do not see much benefit...great idea though
Hi Pete. I see this an old video so I don't know if you are still around or not.. Anyway a question about using the silicone on the front and back of your manifold. Does the silicone not squeeze into to valley of the block? As once the manifold if one you are not able to see it. Is it possible bits could break off and go into the engine? Thanks.
Pete's Garage Thanks for that. I was just about to replace a manifold on a Ford 429 and the front and rear gaskets are rubber and looked quite good so I was in two minds.
scott giltrap-backblocks hunting it is a problem on a small block and big block chevy when the silicone sealer oozes into the distributor hole. i've seen guys fight the distributor into the engine because the dried sealer was restricting the opening.
Hey pete, if i have a new edlebrock aluminum intake manifold but cast iron heads and block, should i still use the standard iron bolts or should i buy the bolts edlebrock sells ???
Hey mate with the cork gasket why don't you pull the white strip off the back and expose the sticky side to stick to the block? I haven't had a issue with them 👍
Better to use a thread chaser than a tap. Taps are made for making new threads in a drilled hole. Using them in an existing hole can undercut the threads.
I have always read to use thread chasers instead of taps because a tap can make the threads looser even if you don't cross thread. Chasers don't cut. Taps can cut.
I use a tap because it is my experience that manufacturing has variation. I tap the holes to make sure they are all the same size. It's preference, but on a new part I will tap the holes.
Thanks for the information. I'm currently working on (my first mechanic project!) a 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood with the factory 4.1L V8 (HT4100), replacing the intake manifold gasket and many other things. This is a huge project to work on, one thing after another with this engine. There isn't many videos online that go into any detail about intake manifolds or even engines, in general. You explained everything very clearly and make things easy to understand in all of your videos. Combined with a big shop manual, your videos are a big help!
@@PetesGarage yes sir! Thank you for that, I'm glad to know they are worth the time to rebuild. I see it as an engine that just needs TLC and follow up with regular scheduled maintenance. The car really is in good condition other than the few engine issues, not a scratch on the body, vinyl top in near perfect shape. Everyone wants to throw this engine away, honestly I've come to like this (not so loved) HT4100. it's given me an opportunity to really learn how an engine works and learn the primitive emissions control set-up of 1984. I'm looking through most of your videos and learning some pretty cool stuff! Thank you for all you do, Pete! Going to rewatch the intake manifold videos!
First let me say you produce the best automotive videos I have seen on RU-vid bar none! Your use/overuse of the term FM drives home it's importance, you could use ten different terms for grime,,dust, grit,or gasket trimmings would not all stick.I am an NACE certified senior corrosion technologists and your explanation on galvanic corrosion was technically perfect, I would have used a copper/copper sulphate half cell just because you can make one in minutes. Remember your heads and bloke will be " protecting the bolts " If you can paint the bolts to reduce current flow and you will reduce the aluminum lose, be careful or you can focus the area of sacrifice ie you could sacrifice a good amount of aluminum evenly, but of you were 99.9% in protecting the aluminum it would take the same amount from the .1% vulnerable exposed aluminum Keep up the outstanding work 979-824-1110
That is a super comment! Thank you very much Charles. I'm really happy when an expert like you can confirm what I say. I do research before making a video to make sure I have the facts right, but you are even better than that.
Speaking of "RTV",a knucklehead who worked on my car before me had slobbered so much RTV on somewhere in the motor, a glob of it, just big enough to get sucked into the oil pump pickup almost wrecked my motor! I thought it was just typical Mopar 318 problems like fluctuating oil pressure. I finally took off the oil pan. My bearings, all of them were at the self destruct point! Through to the copper. So I ended up changing all main and rod bearings, cam and cam bearings, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms. Then I was past the hard part when a bad driver hit me and flipped it over! Ha ha. Also I used to think you were a bit obsessive about the "lint free cloths"! After I got this Jeep 318 back together I spun it with a 3/4 inch drill and did not have the oil pan gasket on it. I was curious about the amount of trash in the motor because it had a terrible case of sludge. Anyway I took the pan back off and there was a dust bunny of fibers in the oil pump intake! It was a new pump too. It had fallen off me when I was cleaning the motor. A lot of it was dog hair which was on me since I have a hairy dog, and a lot of it was paper fibers from toilet paper I was using as rags. So now I say ,"You were right for sure!" I have become obsessive about dirt on the dipstick, all that stuff. On the other Jeep, we drained the oil then with the back jacked up high, poured gasoline into the oil pan through the dip stick tube .(so the rest of the motor would be gasoline free). Then I had some rayon material I bought from the fabric store and filtered the gasoline to see what kind of trash was in the pan. Quite a few lumps of sludge. And fibers too. Just perfect for getting sucked into the oil intake. So I am a reformed person now. No more lint rags. Clean is important not obsessive!
+stanthology That is an incredible comment.....thank you so much! I love the story and appreciate you sharing it with everyone....see..I'm not crazy....lol. So, you can buy Kimtech wipes Science online. They are made of natural and synthetic fibers and produce 95% less lint. Like I always say, I have never had an engine fail from being too clean.
Hey Pete, great videos. Is part 10 put yet? Also, I was wondering if you could make a list of tools you used? Especially measuring tools. And are there any books you can recommend on the math evolved as well as metals. If not, can you write one? You're a genius, man. Thanks.
That is a great idea. I can add a list of tools to each video. I have many engineering books on fluid dynamics, materials, and machining. I f you Google what you are looking for you should be able to find it without spending months trying to learn from a text. I don't think I'm a genius, but I do have knowledge to share. Thank you!
The oil return holes were partially blocked. The valve covers were filling up with oil and the seals could not wipe them fast enough. I have corrected that by opening the return holes to match the gasket.
Hi Pete, I watched your video on torque, I'm afraid I found it confusing. What bothered me was your assertion that if the fastener is lubricated, then one would need to torque to a higher value to achieve a given clamp force - relative to if the fastener was not lubricated. Here in the 'comments' you again repeat that view. So lets say you are correct (which I am sure you are as you know a lot about engineering), when I read the torque specs in an engine manual, are they specifying a torque value with or without a lubricated fastener - what is the convention ? Thanks for a great series of videos !
+ALMAIA All specs are given for dry fasteners. If a manufacturer recommends any lube the will give you the spec for it. I promise you, if you put lube on a fastener and use the dry torque spec you will have problems.
Now I am really confused Pete because in another of your videos, talking about fasteners, you had a fastener which came 'pre lubed' by the fastener manufacturer, and in that video you talked about 'galling and grabbing'....which surely would happen with a dry fastener ...?? I have watched loads of other 'engine build' videos, made by serious techs, they all had some lube on the fasteners. Not soaking in lube, but with a thin layer.
Popping in along the way binging this series to say how much I'm enjoying your work. I'm a chemist and usually when chemistry comes up incidentally it's such an eye roll. You so casually covered redox potential better than anyone I've ever seen teach general chemistry! Amazing work! OK back to watching.
been thinking of building a 4.6 2 valve with forged internals for my mustang. been following these videos and leaned so much from them. so many things I would have over looked or didn't know. awesome videos. great information. much appreciated!!
Hey Pete! Recently started rebuilding a 351w. I remember that we ran it before but as soon as we would try to rev it, it would fall flat on its face. when i removed the intake manifold, I saw that one of the gaskets was hanging off of the edge of the block and was not completely covering the surface, leaving a gap for air to get into the motor. Could this have been the cause of the motor falling on its face? Thanks for your time creating these videos!
Question: That seems like a lot of RTV that comes out the front. What do you do to prevent that RTV from squishing into the motor? Seems like it could break off and clog an oil passage, no?
