Thanks for the compliment. We make sure nobody is left behind in our instruction, and that's why our videos are so detailed. Thanks for acknowledging how we make our videos.
Awesome vid Tim! The saga continues! Try swapping the positions of the knock sensors as these are Toyota's old style screw in type and are notoriously unreliable. The knock sensors are responsible for reporting engine misfires to the ECU. They are both directly under the intake manifold. One is screwed into the middle-side of the left cylinder head and the other is screwed into the middle-side of the right cylinder head. If the misfire follows the sensor then the knock sensor is bad. Otherwise it's an intermittent electrical issue or a very slight timing issue due to wear in the timing belt or crankshaft pulley.
You're awesome!!!. I have not seen another leak down test like yours. You explain every detail!!!. My son was telling me to take my truck to you. I wish we did not live that far.
TDC is not for the valves being closed primarily. Its is so the air pressure does not push the piston down. The valves are closed through the whole compression stroke.
Man I so got ahead of myself! I have throttle body off valve cover, down to cam! New grommets pcv, jb weld small crack on driver side valve cover! Thank you you are blasted great
Your video are the best i seen. you are very thorough you give the correct info and keep it simple. You are my go to person for all my 3rd gen 4runner. Thank you Timmy.
Thanks for the nice compliment. It's great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. Thanks for taking then time to comment. We appreciate it!
2009 scion xb 2.4 that recall they had oil consumption did they change the rings on pistons instead of that single oil one?just wondering you seem very knowledgeable and very good video.
Great video! I just did a leak down test with a Lang leak down tester. I see everyone just tighten the hose hand tight, but that wasn't enough for me. When I did that I still got leaks around where the hose end was screwed in to the spark plug hole. Fortunately my tester required an adapter for 14mm it had a place for a 19mm socket on it. So had to use a 19mm socket to turn an additional 1/8th turn to get it to seal, then screwed my hose in to the adapter. I got 12% leakage on 3 cylinders and 15% on on the 4th one. My engine has 145k miles so I'm assuming that isn't too bad.
Yes we did. It was a problem with the crankshaft. Check out the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9Gpdq-tL79U.htmlsi=eEz__8UwCVoZqwvR
Totally lol'd when you overdubbed "power" over whatever it was you were saying at 12:14. It's like a good Japanese Kung Fu movie!! Another good one!! Been wanting to do this just for piece of mind (and to justify another tool purchase)
That's exactly what I told Sean when he suggested we dub over when I misspoke. I called it the exhaust stroke when I should have said power stroke. It does remind me of one of those old Japanese Godzilla movies. Hiroshi! Godzilla is coming!
It’s better to start from zero and gradually increase your pressure on the left gauge to 90. That way you don’t get a sudden rush of air to you right gauge, once you connect it, also you don’t lose any air whilst connecting it!!
Hey Tim I have a simple/low cost idea if you haven't already done it. Buy just 1 spark plug for cylinder #1 in 1 heat range colder? My thought is that if he has some excess carbon in that 1 cylinder a colder plug might prevent the misfire? Thank you guys for doing a great job detailing the procedure.
Hey Big D, there's something we're going to check into first. That video we recently uploaded for the crankshaft play was Greg's rig. It's my theory that the play we are seeing is crankshaft play and not the harmonic balancer becoming separated. Greg is coming over tomorrow so I can verify where this play is coming from. If it is indeed the whole crankshaft moving, then the culprit for the misfire could be due to the movement of the shaft. The crank position sensor takes a reading from the crankshaft timing gear. If that gear is moving in and out, maybe the sensor is going to get a false reading and trigger the misfire CEL.
Wow that's some advanced stuff! Love these videos Tim, keep 'em coming and hope you can figure out the problem and soon! BTW I'm jealous how rust free these Cali trucks are man!!! Amazing stuff!
Thanks! Glad you like the video. I think we have figured out the problem and we will have confirmation tomorrow. That video we recently uploaded for the crankshaft play was Greg's engine. I think the crankshaft movement is the source of the engine misfire and the source of his audible engine knock.
@@RotoRCol Check out the video we recently posted. Major crankshaft play is definitely the cause. At first I thought it was the crank position sensor signaling the misfire but somebody told me it's more likely the knock sensors triggering the misfire.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm about to watch your crank-play video next. Looks like he won't have to move down here with us in Florida after all, lol. ( Although I still feel really bad for the GOOD residents of California for all of the obvious reasons. )
Used to own 99 Tacoma Prerunner. If I remember correctly I had a misfire code .... after sitting in the garage all summer and several $$ later. Turned out to be a bad spark plug wire.
Yeah, replacing the spark plug wires and spark plugs was the first thing Greg did to try to fix this issue. All along though, it was crankshaft play causing an engine knock. Somebody recently shared information with me that the knock sensors are very sensitive on this generation of Toyota engines and the source of the misfire was most likely coming from the knock sensors. We just posted a video confirming the crankshaft play in Greg's engine. Check it out.
Yet another great instructional video. Thanks Tim for the detailed steps on finding TDC on compression stroke (i used the finger of an old nitrile glove to act as a ballon). The tester I used needed to be pressurized once all hook ups were made. Good news is at 90psi test, output was 86, just over 4% loss, so my misfire code (P0306) does not seem to be a result of a bad valves or head gasket (my biggest fear). The engine runs rough. I’ve already replaced the plug, swapped coils, and tested the ignition wires for continuity. All good. What do you recommend as a next step?
I've never tried it myself but I think the #4 wire might be long enough to reach the #6 cylinder. I know you tested the continuity, but swapping wires would confirm it's not a spark plug wire problem if the misfire doesn't follow that wire to the #4 cylinder.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Tim! I did test with a coil on spark tester, and got a strong spark, but I'll also try swapping the wires to confirm. I also ran a can of Liqui Moly fuel injector cleaner, and that seems to have helped a bit, which is pointing me towards the injector. I've watched your injector service vid, and am feeling confident I can tackle that job. Thanks much for the the reply and guidance.
@@jpc4378 Yeah, you can definitely handle removing the fuel rail to replace that injector. You might want to consider renewing all of them with a set of 6 refurbished ones from Motorwest Performance. Here's our video to show you how to get the job done: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N-lhZIWOkyU.html There's a link to Motorwest Performance in the video description.
Hey man its me again. For the most part I've swapped put my 5vzfe with the same engine but it won't start. I've got good confirmation on everything that won't cause it to start. When I turn the key it sounds like it really does want to turn on but does. It's crazy because my mechanic guy over here did everything to get it started and he did start my car so I would turn it off and try again but it won't start. What would be the problem be sides heads and head gasket. But it won't start at all.? And will any of the ways that you mention about loosing compression will be a problem for me car not starting at all??
There's just so many possible things. Are all the critical sensors connected like the cam position, and crank position sensors? Are the spark plug wires routed correctly? Are the coil pack connectors connected? Is the engine timing correct? Are all the fuel injector electrical connectors connected? Were all the ECU plugs connected correctly? You see, it's hard for me to give you an answer when there's so many things in play. Is the MAF sensor connected? Are all the connections at the throttle body been made like the IAC and throttle position sensor? Was the knock sensor connection made? Was the engine coolant temp sensor connection made? You're gonna have to retrace your steps and figure it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I completely understand. And it made sure all of that was connected. So in the first placed when I put the engine in it started up nice ran great and everything and then the only thing I did next was changed out the valve cover gaskets and made sure all those were connected. I do have the book for the 3rd gen but it won't start no more. But I mean it should atleast turned on right? Like my car doesn't turn on to run, I keep turning it over, cranks but nothing
Hey Casey, Greg's problem ended up being gross play in the crankshaft. The thrust washers must have gave way causing the play. He had an audible engine knock and I finally noticed the cause when reviewing some video footage and saw the harmonic balancer move a crazy amount. Check out the video to see for yourself. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9Gpdq-tL79U.html
Timmy, I am looking on your videos description for the place its refurbish the fuel injectors. I have not been able to find it. Could you tell me the website for it? Thank you!!!
I was running a Castrol high mileage partial synthetic for a long time but I recently switched to a full synthetic in both of my rigs. It's also made by Castrol: Castrol 03087 EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I buy it via Amazon because it's more affordable: amzn.to/2TsvT3S I don't really have a personal opinion about Royal Purple. I do know that lots of guys use it and like it though. Honestly, I think it's hard to go wrong with oils these days. There's guys running the Walmart brand without issue. The important thing is renew your oil at regular intervals to always have plenty of lubricating properties in the oil. With my partial synthetic, I was changing my oil every 3k. With the full synthetic, I'm renewing my oil every 5k now. I know I could push it further because an oil analysis would probably show I could but I'd rather give my engine fresh oil on a more regular basis. It's my opinion that being religious about changing your oil is the best thing you can do for your engine.
You have to do some math. You look at the amount of pressure loss between the two gauges, divide that by the amount of pressure your inputting into the cylinder and you'll get your percentage loss.
ill tell you why my 1st gen tacoma was misfiring, the electrical connector to the injector was faulty i found this out when i pressed it down with a pick took and the miss went away i replaced all the injector connectors (depinned the old conmector inserted the old terminals into the new clips so no cutting of wires) only to find it wasnt because the plastic retainer part of the clip was broken but because the metal terminal ist making making good contact... intake needs to come off again
Hey James, well, at least you know what the culprit is, a bad connection. Maybe the electrical connectors on the injector are the issue and a replacement injector will fix the issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman i installed new injectors from motorwest performance (the guys you used) and finished installing the new connectors with new terminals and there was a difference, but i still have a misfire on idle sometimes it makes my grille guard shake sometimes so i know it exists and isn't placebo
I haven't performed a leak down test on a diesel engine so I can't advise you on this. Diesel engines have glow plugs while gasoline engines have spark plugs. Maybe you remove the glow plug and do a similar procedure making sure you have the piston at top dead center compression stroke. I'm sure somebody has a write-up or video on the subject you can reference and see how it compares to the way we did it.
I guess you don't have to remove adjacent plugs because if there is a blown head gasket or block/head crack the other cylinders are not on power stroke and will leak anyway if those faults are there??? I'm trying to solve a P0305 and just passed a leak down test with 5% loss. I've tested the injector resistance(new injector), the injector lead, moved in another coil and tested the coil lead, put on a new spark plug, with new wire. No joy. Now I'm thinking the fuel rail is running out of gas before it gets to the injector, pointing at fuel filter, regulator, or pump. Still intend to check injector for clicking noise. Any suggestions? Thanks for the leak down test video!; allowed me to do my own. And happy holidays, Sir!
You must be talking about doing a compression test. You just need to put the engine into full flood mode by pushing the gas pedal all the way to the floor. This shuts down the injectors and won't flood the cylinders with fuel while performing the compression test.
@@TimmyTheToolman I performed the leak test because of a 5th cylinder misfire code. I also noticed that I had dried caked mud in my upper plenum. During the leak test, and to determine which cycle the piston was in, the 5th cylinder barely pushed or sucked any air at all. The other cylinders did push and suck air. When I used the compressed air in the cylinder, the air must have passed right by the cylinder as the leak test detected no pressure. I could hear the air pass right by the piston. Today I reassembled the plenums and airbox. Started the engine and now I have white exhaust leaking from the exhaust manifold what and which seems to be near that 5th cylinder. The only changes that I made were cleaning everything up, adding a new OEM air filter, adding new plugs and I switched coils with the 5th and 1st cylinders. I did not have the exhaust leak previous to taking things apart. I'm not sure what to do from here.
It shouldn't run without the crank sensor. P0335? At least that's what I'm seeing on Tacoma World. I'm not big on just throwing parts at a problem either, but I would replace the crank position sensor because it can cause all kinds of strange issues. About $60.00 OEM Toyota.
@@dsimp765 Well, if we determine that the play we saw the other day is indeed the crank, the engine is seriously compromised and it's probably not a good idea to just ignore the problem. If he just wanted it for an around town rig, I'd say just drive it if he can somehow get it smogged and registered. But, we need to have the code cleared out long enough so he can bring it to a smog check facility. Currently, after he resets the CEL, a new CEL pops up within around 5 miles.
@@TimmyTheToolman The only spec that I found was on Tacoma World article from 2011 said.008-.011 crank end play, and your video proves its more than that. I found another article you should check out on IH8MUD.com dated July 31st 2010. Its a 2000 4runner with the 3.4l It had the same problem as your video shows. Bottom line they dropped the oil pan and found the rear thrust washers in the pan and the rear main bearing moved forward out of position. You might consider dropping the pan before yanking the motor? Good luck and we are hoping you guys figure it out.
@@dsimp765 We confirmed today that the gross play we saw is from the crankshaft. I'm uploading the video right now. It will be live in a few hours. One thing I was thinking of doing is draining the oil and then go fishing for the thrust washers on the bottom of the oil pan with a magnet tool I have with a flexible arm that I could fit in there,. I definitely don't want to pull the front diff and drop the pan because that's a ton of labor. But, if we do an engine swap for Greg, I will pull the pan once we get the engine out and then we can see what we can see. Thanks for contributing to this search for a solution. We now know this engine is toast and he's considering an engine swap. So, stay tuned for a potential engine swap.
It was gross play in the crankshaft that ended up being the culprit. Greg had an audible engine knock that I finally figured out was being caused by the play in the crankshaft. One or both of the knock sensors triggered the misfire. This video shows the play I'm talking about. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9Gpdq-tL79U.html
Those wires are an exact replacement for OEM wires. They are just a different color. I have the same ones on my rig. We finally figured out his problem. It's a very loose crankshaft. We will be swapping out his engine in the near future.
Hey, timmy the tool man I got a problem with my 97 4runner when I turn my engine is fine but when I put it Into drive or reverse before reaching operating temperature it shakes like if i was driving over rocks. But once it reaches the normal operating temperature is fine and doesn't shake anymore more. It only start doing it last week. Do you know what could it be? update:Found the issue is a misfire from cylinder 3 error code p0303. I will check the wires and replace them and change the spark plugs. I will keep it up to date. With this issue and timmy the tool man if u have any suggestions how to fix this problem let me know. Thank you!
I'd start with swapping the coil packs and see if the misfire follows a bad coil pack. The #3 cylinder is the middle cylinder on the passenger side of the engine. Get your air tube of the way first, then disconnect the spark wires that connect to the coil packs for the #1 and #3 cylinders. The #1 cylinder is the forward most cylinder on the passenger side. You remove the coil packs by taking out the 10mm bolts that hold them in. Put the one that was on the #3 cylinder onto the #1 cylinder and vice versa. But, before you do that, remove the spark plug for those 2 cylinders. If the electrodes are severely worn down, you might just be having a spark plug firing issue. If the plugs look good, put everything back together and now see if the misfire follows that coil pack to the #1 cylinder. You'd have a P0301 code it that ends up being the case.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks a lot for the tip and responding fast. The problem was a bad spark plug I checked all three spark plug coil pack resistance they were good all good between 1 ohm so now I got no code and it runs like charm. The weird part is that my check engine light didn't come on when I got this issue maybe the bulb is burn in the cluster I will change it later. Also my alternator buzz a little bit in low rpm should I change it? I know the buzzing comes from the alternator because when I roll my window on idle the alternator whines a little bit and since it use a lot of power. Thanks a lot for responding my question amazing channel. Also if someone has a question about a problem with their rig what is the best way to reach you, comment on a new video, old or whatever video thanks for helping me with my 4runner. I wish this channel had more subscribers so they see how amazing it is. 4runner 4ever
@@marcoharrorato7259 Don't know what would cause a buzzing sound from the alternator. How's the belt tension? With a mechanic stethoscope, you could listen to the alternator pulley bearing and see if it sounds really rough. You could compare the sound on the alternator to the sound of the power steering pulley. Does it sound like an electrical buzz? Have you used a volt meter to check the charging output?
If you need to ask a question not related to an existing video, you could message me on Facebook Messenger. On the front page of our channel in the bottom right of the picture is a link to our Facebook page. Great to hear you appreciate our channel Marc.
Sadly the engine of the truck died. Cylinder 4 does not have compression. I am planing to do an engine swap. Could you please tell me which parts it needs to be replaced in the "new"old engine before its installed on the engine bay? Thank you!!! What should I keep for my old engine?
I've never done an engine swap. But, if I did, I would do the timing belt and associated parts. I'd replace the valve cover gaskets, cam plugs, spark plug grommets and reseal the half moons on each head. I'd replace the rear main seal. I'd probably reseal the oil pan too. I might replace the motor mounts if they looked old and cracked. I'd replace the spark plugs and wires. I'd replace the PCV valve and grommet. I'd clean the throttle body, IAC and MAF. I might go ahead and put in some refurbished fuel injectors too.
@@TimmyTheToolman One more question. I have a 3.4 just like the one in your vid that I rebuilt 40,000 miles ago. I took a ball hone to the cylinders and cleaned them up slightly and re-ringed the original slugs and these are the results I’m getting because the engine starting to run not like it used to. Does it sound like it’s a goner? 1. PSI=160. Leak down 50% 2. PSI=162. Leak down. 15% 3. PSI=168. Leak down 30% 4. PSI=155. Leak down 40% 5. PSI=161. Leak down 30% 6. PSI=152. Leak down 40%
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok good to now I had the same problem with my 1993 pickup. I Change everything the last part was the computer and finaly fix the problem. I like very much yours videos👍👍
That was a theory of ours as well. Greg is coming over today because we did see gross movement in his crankshaft. If it is indeed the crankshaft moving and not the harmonic balancer, the source of his misfire and audible engine knock have to be due to that. It's my theory that if the crankshaft is able to move significantly like we saw in the video we recently posted, that could throw off the crank position sensor taking a reading from the crankshaft timing gear. We will find out today if I'm right.
@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy, not sure if you answered this or not, but what did you find out for the root cause? Also, great videos, getting ready to do compression/leakdown testing ahead of a SC/7th inj. install. At 250k, want to make sure things aren’t on the edge. You are great at what you do. Can really tell that your style/substance comes from doing things the right way and from a pride of ownership. Don’t get that in too many places these day.
Oh my. I know I'm VERY late seeing this video.....but it appears that you guys have tried just about everything to pinpoint the source of that misfire code........yet "the engine seems to run just fine" and what's worst of all, because of the "misfire code", he can't legally drive the truck on public roadways in your state. Do you live in California? If not, which state is imposing this tyrannical nightmare against your friend and his truck.......that seems to run just fine? Thank God our state of Florida doesn't impose this crap against the people. But we did have vehicle & emissions inspections back in the early 70's, but they did away with all of that long ago. So I guess the easiest "fix" at this point for your friend's truck is to....well.......move down here & join us in the Sunshine State, lol. ( Your channel has got to be one of the most valuable channels for Toyota owners by the way. Love it. I've learned a lot from your videos. THANK YOU!!! )
Greg's truck ran fine but it had an audible knock. Yes, in Commiefornia, you can't get your rig smogged with an active CEL. Greg decided to just sell it once he knew the engine was shot. No way I could do Florida. I'd love the politics but hate the topography and the humidity. I would miss the mountains greatly.
Don't know what you're trying to say with this one word comment. I guess you are a man of very few words. If you're trying to say it's a problem with the injector, we already swapped out all the injectors trying to fix this misfire problem. That was the first thing we tried when I first me Greg to help him figure out the misfire problem.
@@tongl274 Well, it was a great guess and it was our guess as well. Unfortunately, it wasn't the culprit but we got an injector replacement video out of it which was cool. Great to hear you like our videos. Happy Wrenching!
