I test the Liqui Moli motor flush treatment to determine if it works as advertised. Donate: paypal.me/JoeysGarage Email contact: JoeysTheMechanic@gmail.com Follow Me on Twitter: @InJoeysGarage Music by: Joey :-) I hope you enjoyed it.
I have used liqui moly on all my cars and had good results. For all the people saying he is not doing what ever- then why don’t you make a video on how to do it or what’s good or bad about the product. At least he is trying to let people know about it. Keep it up.
Thank you very much. It hard to test this product without tearing down an engine, then putting back together. Use product, then repeat teardown. Sorry, but I just don’t have the time for that.
I don't think a visual comparison of samples is a fair comparison considering the Liqui Moli to start with is a darker fluid. The Gunk flush is a lighter color and you can see the red tint when mixed with the engine oil which was only in the engine for less than an hour. However, the Liquid Moli doesn't have the same color difference to start. We are more interested in how well the engine flush changes the viscosity of the oil in question. What you should have done is shown a pour of each sample into an empty cup in order to observe how viscous the final result was or at least swirled the fluid like wine in a glass. Also, you should have shown the before and after 'viscosity pours' using both the 2000 mi waste oil and fresh oil with no impurities as a reference.
For you guys at home, make sure when you drain the oil the car is on level ground. Don't drain the oil when the car is on ramps, you would have a lot of dirty oil left in the engine.
I'm puzzled. You did the Motor Medic flush on the same vehicle that you did the Moli flush on? The engine was already flushed so I wouldn't expect the second flush to do anything so naturally it should not show any real change. ??
You are correct. It was the same engine. But with the motor medic flush after moli, if it had cleaned more junk out, I would be questioning the effectiveness of the moli. That was the whole point. Maybe next year I can try it again, but in reverse order.
Okay. I was under the impression that you were comparing the two. Yes, the Moli clearly works. As for the Medic, that's unknown by this particular test. I'd be surprised if you developed enough gunk in just a year to use this vehicle to test the Medic. If you keep your oil clean. You may need to find a friend who has never flushed their old beast. Thanks.
That's an awesome idea. I think I know just the car. My neighbor changes his on a regular bases but has never flushed. We hangout and have a few beers when he changes the oil. Once it cools down the car will make a guest appearance. Thanks for watching. And don't forget to help out by sharing and subscribing.
inconclusive evidence. 1. Maybe the first engine flush cleared out majority of the deposits. 2. And the second oil change just rinsed the engine 3. there wasn't much for gunk flush to clear out. To compare this, it's like cleaning your filthy hands with a particular hand sanitizer, washing them with water and soap, and later using another sanitizer. rather drive a car with one brand, type and viscosity of oil for 750 mi, change the oil with the exact oil out of a new container, now add a type of flush, and later compare another flush when you later drive it for another 750 mi. That should give us substantial evidence. of course there will be room for error, gasoline adulteration, driving patterns, and weather. however this way we get to see something better.
We all saw the same result, he did not just show the results with me. Please re-read the 3 lines I listed. You'll see what it means. If you disagree, it's 'ok'.
I basically think his point was that liqui-moly did a good job. The problem he has it that he didn't deduce that doing them in the opposite order would have had different results. If it had been dirtier second time doing gunk flush first, you could say that the second one cleaned better, but cleaner second time, doesn't prove anything.
What a load of bullshit. If you think you can do any better with 100% positive scientific results that would stand up to an engineer and specialist oil engineers --- Have a go ya mugs. This is a guy giving it his best shot to help the ill informed (which from what I see and read is most of you). You should be thanking the guy. But no - in todays generation society you all claim to be experts and its about "me" and "only my opinion". I drink water, so I MUST be the expert!! If you know so much, why are you even watching such videos?????
Peter Chatman ~ the point of watching these is to actually learn from others, but what this guy did was make a video claiming something to be true without providing any real basis for his conclusion. Nobody here is claiming to be an expert, but our comments are to help those even more uninformed so they don’t get duped by some guy trying to get RU-vid sponsorships. Like I said before, I’m not saying it doesn’t work, but he didn’t prove that it does.
I have always been afraid of engine flush being to thin or not compatible with the seals in the engine. I suggest for a less aggressive flush to replace 1 quart of your engine oil with 1 quart Marvel Mystery oil then drive the vehicle for 3000 miles. Then add 1 more quart of Marvel Mystery oil and allow the engine to just idle on level ground for 45 minutes. When you drain this mixture out good and hot it will bring out the sludge!
Just a little friendly advice--if I were you I'd wear gloves impermeable to motor oil when doing this or any job where you might get your hands in oil or petroleum solvents. Over the years I've known several people who work on cars on a daily basis who developed skin cancer. Walmart has some really cheap blue nitrile gloves that you can afford to throw away after each use.
I really appreciate your video. I am surprised you have only 669 👍 and 270 👎. I think a lot of people got confused by Motor Medic flush at the end! For people who did not understand why I thought it was a helpful video, because this video by itself wasn't a direct comparison between Liqui Moly and Motor Medic (as title suggests). Motor Medic flush at the end just proved that Liqui Moly did not leave any gunk behind. This is a product review video and Joey answered the question I always had..."How do I know how much gunk was left behind after a flush?" Also thanks a lot for using fresh oil with Liqui Moly. Every other Liqui Moly review shows how much gunk came out, nobody showed if you could even more gunk out with a second flush. Apparently not. Liqui Moly does pretty good job in one shot. If you want to compare between this two products, you'll have to watch his other video with Motor Medic and do the comparison in your head, or take his word from his experience.
Of course the second flush will be cleaner. Your video does show how clean you can get an engine. I've seen a few other videos where the oil is ridiculously dirty. They need about four flushes, back to back!
The deposits on the valve covers and on top of engine heads are so had sometimes that barely get dislodged with a screwdriver. Those short flushes don't even touch those deposits, they will be a forever source of carbon. Long term use of synthetic, with no extended OCI will prevent that.
Hey Joey! What you did is very time consuming therefore I appreciate your motivation and the step-by-step explanation. Let the people talk, you did a very good job! The test is very impressive even if it's not a real comparison of both products. I think we can make the following conclusions from your test: 1) Either LM cleaned the engine perfectly so that there were no more engine sludge residuals (I believe there are still residuals which could be cleaned mechanically) or 2) There is still sludge in the engine but the Motor Medic could not clean it or 3) The Motor Medic would do the same job if you had used it at first. So at all we can say that LM is not worse than Motor Medic, it is at least as good as the MM. But we can not say that it is the better product as the evidence (test) is missing. I will contact LM if a further flush with fresh oil is required to remove all residuals of the LM. I don't think that this is required, otherwise it would be in the instruction steps. P.S. sorry for my english...I'm from germany.
+Pipmen Thanks for the comment. It's hard to show effectiveness without tearing apart an engine. But I wanted to test the products. Thanks for watching
U should have done that on 2 different cars. Cause it got an engine flush with the liqui molly and then got flushed again with motor medic so i doesn't really give justice to the motor medic cause the engine previously got a engine flush
Look up the MSDS of ALL engine/ fuel flushes. They are all various concentrations of NAPTHA or Shellite. Much cheaper just to buy it in bottles at your hardware store than as some miracle product in lower concentrations at a much higher price.
I have seen this test several times. I would do this. 1)take sample before adding Liqui Moli 2)add Liqui Moly 3) take sample and drain oil and change oil filter 4)install cheap oil and filter and drive about 20 minutes 5)drain oil and change filter basically flushing anything left from the Liqui Moly 6)drive about 20 miles and again take a small sample to show the end result. I just think that the oil in a used filter would taint your results. Just my opinion and enjoy those cool Texas summers. Lived there for 38 years and just moved back up north. Good job.
lol love the hat did you change the filter every time you changed the oil or just the once ? as it is not fair if you did not change it every time i have also tested alot of engine flushes this way and i changed the oil filter every time and as your results show the engine is clean hower ever when you drop the filter every time it is a new clean one Liqi moly is good i use wyns over here in Australia
I agree with many comments that this doesn't prove the 2nd product worked, but it does show the 1st product did work. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Motor Medic flush is not "just like" automatic transmission fluid. These are simply dyes used to color the liquid. Similar to diesel fuel and heating/ fuel oil. They could have made it green if they desired.
Hi Joey, loved the video and I personally use liqui moly and after my research I personally think IMO it's the best oil on the market. I'm not convinced Liqui moly have the best flushing fluid, there are plenty of good companies with flushing fluid on the market, but thanks for the video I really enjoyed your research and it's noted! 👍
I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3l Engine and 330.000 miles on it, never use any type of motor flush because I consider it will diminish the life of gaskets and seals, My recommendation change the oil and filter (regular oil, I prefer Castrol 10W40.) every 3,500-4,000 miles and keep an eye on the engine temperature. Never let your engine overheat and your car will be just fine.
how many times can you wash your same underwear with different detergents in the same day and expect a scientific result? ... yeah, the heat is making him loco!
great job & thanks Joe, question. did u ever tried bluechem oil cleaner that thing rocks I heard comparing to any product in the U.S market it's also German made super high quality, I heard its used on exotic cars like Lamborghini in florida and by german cars dealers, hope u do one time demo VS the liquimoly
Very cool, like the comparison...possibly different formulations to achieve the same desired result. These products are great if you buy a used clean car but have no real maintenance history to go with it...the sludge accumulation is an unknown... as for regular maintenance I would agree with other viewers on the topic, to avoid and stay with regular quality oil changes...cheers!
very stupid test,, why would you flush the engine with the liquid moli with 6000 dirty oil,,, and flush again with completely clean oil that is only used for 10 miles.. the result is not even compatible, what a waste
The second flush is to remove any residue of Liqui Moli and debris. The second flush is not needed IMHO but he needs to run the engine for 10 minutes, not 5 minutes, and the Liqui Moly definitely should be added with the dirty oil.
The instructions of liqui moly clearly say to add to dirty oil before you drain it. Read instructions first before making yourself look like a dumb ass
Just use a quality full synthetic oil and change it every 5k-6k miles. They contain an additive package with detergents to clean engine. Use a new quality filter with each change as well. There should be no need for flush if you properly maintain your car from new. Flushes have, on occasion, actually damaged really dirty engines by releasing gunk into the system and causing blockages.
UNLESS you buy a used vehicle and have no idea how well the previous owner took care of said vehicle. The person below mentioned Honda, which is possibly true given that they are not known for sludge problems, but for something like an Audi or VW, or some older Lexus vehicles, sludge has been known to be a problem, causing oil pick up tube blockage leading to the low oil pressure issues....also, I think the double drain would be enough to be safe from and "gunk into the system" issues...after all, the flush broke up the gunk to begin with, so it should be flowing said junk to the pan, no?
Delacey Brown You can use a high mileage full synthetic which has additional detergents. As for a double flush: I would put some miles on car before doing second drain to work it through system. You should be able to get an idea of how dirty existing oil is when you drain it (is it gloppy or runs unevenly?) If you really want to know for sure you can remove valve covers and take a look. You could also remove oil pan as well.
hi, i did it with liqui moly. do you have an idea what is the difference between putting (liqui moly oil + mos2) factory mixed or adding liqui moly ceratec bottle to liqui moly oil ?
hey, got a question. I have a 2000 320i with very low miles, here in tokyo. got it a year ago with 20k miles, now it has 40. so as you can imagine, for the 16 years before i bought it, the car mostly sat. and as you can imagine, theres carbon buildup. engine knocks slightly under normal driving conditions, but loudly under load. i was advised to run diesel motor oil in it for about 500 miles, then change back to regular motor oil. does that make sense? is that a good way to get rid of carbon buildup?
IMO engine flush products should be colorless. If they impart dark tint to clean motor oil; how is one going to differentiate between the before and after results.
I could be wrong but I do have some experience with these type of products, there not mineral spirits or atf, it's all kerosene in different bottles. they do work and I do use them, one rule when using these flushes, only idle, never rev up the motor, don't try to give it the gas thinking you'll get a better result.
I add 1 liter of Dexron III atf to the engine, run it on the highway for 30 minutes, then drain it all out while it's hot, change the filter, then put it all back together, included putting in new oil and filter. It works well.
It seems to me gunk motor flush didn’t clean effectively, because you put liquid molly first , and molly got rid of a good portion of the dirt , therefore there was barely any dirt for gunk motor flush to clean
Take your sample & run it thru cheese cloth. You'll see residue. Oil color is temperature sensitive, bring of coal oriented. It gets darker the longer heat is applied, the darker it shows.
What I usually do is use, 1 bottle of motor flush, let it idle for 10 minutes, drain the oil and replace the oil filter with a cheap oil filter (FRAM), replace the oil with a conventional oil 5w20, drive the car for around 100 kilometers. Next after 100 kilometers, drain the oil again, replace the oil filter with OEM oil filter, replace the oil with full synthetic oil. That's it, I'll do another flush after 2 years.
I used gunk for years. Recently tried Liqui Moly, and I am sure it is better. My GMC 5.7 had a lifter tick that Gunk/Motor medic did nothing with. 505CRO is probably the best I tried, but expensive, then Liqui Moly. Keeping Liqui Moly on the shelf.
All I get from this video is that the first brand does a pretty good compared to nothing else, but its too expensive. The second doesnt do as well if your engine has already been flushed a few times right before using it. 🤦♂️
I believe a proper comparison would be to get some worst case scenarios and use the flushes separately in different vehicles. Running them back to back in the same vehicle will contaminate the results. Then you should look at the long term on the vehicle after flushing.....did the oil consumption go up or down, compression go up or down, any new mechanical noises, etc.
Don't listen to the knockers. Its a pretty good overview!!! I use Wynns Flush in my LS 7 litre forged internals and monster cam engine; and my oil is a black as tar when I use the flush. When I don't the oil is just the normal dark dirty.
Thanks for the tip. I'm always looking for another product to test. Please don't forget to share, like, and subscribe. Everything helps me improve and advance "Joey's Garage"
Just like when you do a radiator flush, you need to do it multiple times. I have seen videos where a guy did it 3 times and collected samples for each flush. The color of flush got progressively better. Engine oil sluge is a mother-fer to clean out. Doing one engine oil flush is just not enough. You have to do it at least 3 times or more. You should use cheap walmart oil for the flushes.. Then on the final fill you use the correct oil and a new oil filter. I did this on my high mileage mercedes SUV. I do it every 50k miles.
Great job! That's what I was looking for :) You inspired me to perform such test on my Audi A4 B6 with LiquiMoly. I will let you know when I make a photoreport. Greetings from Poland :)
Two flushes with two different products back-to-back on the same vehicle makes absolutely no sense. The results of the second flush and product used are null UNLESS the oil is still dirty from the first flush, which would only prove that the first flush and product used was not sufficient or a good product. Unfortunately, this comparison test was flawed and used for the wrong purpose. It only shows if the first product was good or not.
I may have just killed my '00 Jeep XJ 4.0 w/ 220k on it using the motor medic. While I followed the directions I'm afraid it either left a bunch of sludge in my pan, or more likely started to dissolve & break up sludge resulting in clogging the oil pickup & starving the engine. It was running like a champ around town with daily 20 min hwy trips, but currently after 100 miles into a 400 mile round-trip for work my oil pressure gauge dropped exceptionally low (though I believe the sending unit was bad & was actually about to replace it), but lost power on long steep hill clips at 70mph & was ticking badly even for a 4.0. Made the the 2nd 100 miles so now just hoping I can get her home in one piece. Curious to find out what happened, & just wish I had a backup vehicle & money for a rebuild if necessary. Being to aggressive Inna neglected or old sludge cracked engine can really bite you in the butt.
great vid... I turned it into a drinking game. every time he says "so"... here are the results: at 3:00 I was starting to get buzzed. at 6:00 I found my legs became wobbly and wouldn't go in a straight line. at 9:00 I started flirting with everyone around me. by 12:00 I was totally blacked out. when I came to I had no clue what day it was or even what time. I gave up trying to flush my engine and went to bed. best vid ever!
If you use any kind of engine flush.....you MUST completely get all that engine flush out of the crankcase after the flush. This means you must pour 4-5 qrts of new oil into the engine....run it for 5 minutes, then drain it all out again. Then really.....do that one more time. Then put the good new oil in and you're all set. Leaving just a half cup of engine flush in the engine after a flush will destroy the viscosity of the new fresh oil....and that will kill your bearings over time.
My observation is the engine flush is add up to dirty oil run for ten min and drain. Then fresh oil is add up with new oil filter. He drained dirty oil and add engine flush to new oil. Then drained the new oil too. Why... Seems some miss conception here.
+Eduardo Alcantara Jr Not sure. Got them at discount auto parts many years ago. Maybe 10. Still holding strong. Thanks for watching. Share and like. Please
+alvaro fernandez Not sure, that's a good question. I would read the label on the back. In my videos I make it a point to always go by the manufacture's directions.
Good job though. Maybe try it on an easy car you can remove the valve covers to check inside? I know its easier to sit here and suggest stuff but i think those type things will set you apart from others
I think u did a good job but I would of liked to see the ingredients of both products since u commented on mineral spirits & maybe hold them up to the sunlight to compare better and the pouring of the oils in cups and stirring with cleaners don't show anything because engines stir the oil millions of times in 10 minutes keep up the videos have a great day
