Happy holidays and a wish for a good next year to you all. I have some Technical service bulletins I share information about. Details you need to know about issues and faults. See you all next year!
I like this debriefing session, very helpful. I’ve been doing the headlight method for a long time now, never knowing base line load voltage or resistance. Always looking for either a dim light or a bright one. What are the numbers you look for doing this procedure. I’ve also came across doing liner heights higher than Oem specs with success. Doesn’t fix the wobble in the liner, but last a little longer if it begins to fret and sink. Liners would be a good video topic. Merry Christmas engine shop Joe
I will be doing a video on this subject. It is very important to understand wiring and it ability to carry a clean current load. I’m referring to your comment on measuring the voltages under load.
Merry Christmas Joe! Had read on the TSB for press fit liners and had to chuckle. Seems like what is old is new again. Paccar has done the same on MX a couple years ago, these high compression ratios with torque curve at low RPM requires it. Seen a couple X's with the brass captive shims wore pretty bad on thrust side. I have used Load Pro leads for many, many years, enjoyed Dan Sullivan's book and style of teaching. I have gotten deeper with the Picoscope and just testing live nowadays that lets you see what is going on.
My old man used to use stainless steel shims in the 70 and 80s because Detroit did it from the factory, so he thought to himself why not give it a try on an 855, it wasn’t correct but it worked, fast forward to the present and I’m seeing this method make a comeback for the isx15. Just like you said what was old is new again. Merry Christmas Steve …..till next year.
@@jaywyatt7476 Merry Christmas to you as well! Lots of folks are knocking off the brass captive shims off of the liners and using a 0.036 stainless to set the protrusion @ 0.014 (old max spec, now .012) on the X engines. I had to cut the counterbore on one of our MX 13 engines and the recommended way is to install thicker flange liner (part supplier is Mahle). I chose to cut it for 0.020 shim and used brass because the joint is also the coolant seal for upper portion of liner, a lot like what they ending up doing to Big Cams with the lower press fit liners. It hasn't had an issue going on two years yet. The brass shim is ones used for Series 60 Detroits!
hi Joe, where do you check the oil pressure manually "with a gauge" on a cm870? Is it through the pipe plug on top the (oil filter housing)?? -or- Can you pull the oil pressure sensor itself and use that hole?
You can check it on top of the housing where the oil filter goes. The smaller plug is for filtered pressure you can also find a straight thread fitting on the oil cooler housing just forward of the oil filter. THat is oil pump pressure. If the filter plugs that oil pump pressure can get to 175 psi. I have seen 5 psi after the filter and 175 before the filter. But you should be seeing around 32psi hot at 1200 rpm. Idle is usually around 10-18. If you get the new oil pump dont worry if the pressure runs a bit lower that is not a problem. As long as the check engine light does not come on for oil pressure you are in the ball park.
