To use the moly lube, I have found thru experimentation that it takes 2 -3 good coats, letting it dry between each. The surface has to have a good even coat before etching in the laser. If you follow these stepds then the marks are nice and dark. I have 100W X700 Chinese black and red. speed 100, power 35%, 0.050 line interval in lightburn.
Ciao!Posso farti una domanda forse un pò bizzarra?Secondo te acquistando solo il "modulo per incisore laser-testa laser " sarebbe possibile usarlo a mano libera, tipo seghetto da tenere in mano e tagliare per lungo senza nessuna costrizione dettata dal carrello della macchina.Grazie se saprai rispondermi.
Great video. Thanks for the comparison. I’ve been wanting to try engraving on my OMTech 80w. I would really love to know what camera you’re using with lightburn? I heard you say it’s their camera, but I wasn’t aware they offered cameras. 🤷♀️
A great Big thank you for all your time in producing these videos..just bought a new unopened 320.00 dollar 40 watt Preenex lazer engraver from a friend that changed their mind because of its complexity. . Also in Arkansas! I collect vintage sewing machines and setting up a embroidery machine and thought this engraver would enhance my shop. havent unpacked it yet but watching your videos I already learned alot. thanks again for you efforts and time.
@@MyersWoodshop Next time you demonstrate or run a test like this simply use a piece of cardboard to mask each side while spraying. You also want to spray light even coats. Use a heat gun or hairdryer to dry.
I really enjoy your videos but I have to say I don’t think you gave the Moly Lube a fair chance. The coats you sprayed were super light compared to how much of the other stuff you put on. You can even see the large spot that was just a light misting. I have had plenty of good results with Moly Lube, definitely good enough for a home user. It’s not my “go to” product but definitely worth keeping on the shelf. Jason
@@MyersWoodshop I’m a newbie to the whole lasering thing, but with regards to spraying, I can say that it looked like an uneven spray. Regardless, thank you very much for spending the time, money and effort to produce this video. To a newbie like myself, this kind of stuff is invaluable - I know nothing about engraving metal yet. I haven’t even chosen my laser yet either, but have fallen into a hole that leads me to videos and channels like yours. Liked and subscribed ✌🏻
Hi, this was a nice comparison video and testing. Can I make a suggestion though? I don't think I can do links (spam filters) but for the testing on the saw blade (and other products) your testing was slightly flawed. Can I recommend making a tester file, sort of a listing of 20 to 30 different settings (you may need two or three files depending on your software) with each one spelling out what the setting is in the file. Example from a saved video: The laser is set at each of the settings and will etch what they say. 11% 10Watts 050 mm/Sec 11% 10Watts 100 mm/Sec 11% 10Watts 150 mm/Sec And so on. As you wipe the solution and clean up the work you can see the effectiveness at each level and find the sweet spots. From some of the laser forums, I read the cheaper sprays will work great but you have to find the exact power level and speed for it to be effective. The video I got the above example from had I think 2 of 16 settings that etched with the cheaper spray.
I needed to mark the blade of a kitchen knife. Saw your video and I thought.. a) Don't want to use an automotive spray on a knife that will be used on food.. b) Don't want to spend $50+ for a one time use chemical. I needed a way for the laser to be absorbed and turn enough molecules to carbon and stick to metal. I just so happen to have a DIY mixture of borax and sugar that is used to kill ants in the kitchen. I know borax is used to help darken laser engraving on wood.. because of the carbon. The sugar is carbon based. So, I tried it. Three coats of the mixture with drying in between on the lid of a Ball jar, settings is 30% on a 100 watts laser.. it worked. Tried it again on a Henkel’s steak knife.. came out as good as the Henkel’s logo that is already on the knife. Simple, safe and works. I tried scrubbing the etching of the blade with soap and water; baking soda dry and with water. At a closer look, the etching is actually in the knife.. just deep enough to avoid the scrubbing. I hope this helps.
The text would look even better if you draw an arc the same as the curve of the back of the handle, write your text and go to edit and fit text to curve, then you don't need to rotate it. Better fit. Nice job, gives me ideas.
@@MyersWoodshop I think he means that, when you sprayed the two coatings, you did nothing to mask off each half. If you had placed a sheet of paper over half of the saw blade before spraying, you could have avoided over-spraying onto the other side. Also, I wonder if the dry moly lube would have worked with different settings. Perhaps higher power, or slower movement, would have allowed it to work better. Then using a solvent to rinse it off, rather than "abrading" it off with dry paper towel and Scotchbrite™ pads, might have worked better.... For a $50 a can difference in price, I'd be willing to put in a fair amount of fine-tuning to get workable results, myself.
I just want to laser engrave or etch some titanium . I’m wanting to try it at home as a hobby. Any suggestions for a good easy to use machine? I’m not a tech guy and I have some good cash I can spend . Any help would be appreaciated and or laser cutting too but I’m more interested in etching/engraving
The only type of laser that can do that reliability and easily is a fiber laser. A co2 or diode will not provide decent results. I hope to have one some time this year.
could this work with an omtech 40w CO2 laser cutter from omtech? I got the marking spray and tried different speed and power settings on a piece of stainless steel but none of my attempts worked :/ if anyone knows pls help, thank you.
Why not take 30 seconds and mask off, now you've got two contaminated surfaces? Also, I didn't see you clean the blade before spraying. It looks like a new blade, so you've probably got a protective wax on there which will stop the spray from coming into contact with the metal
For something like lube, or aggressive cleaning spray on some Carb Cleaner and it will clean immediately. Moot point because it didn’t work but just a cleaning tip. 👍.
@@MyersWoodshop Hey I have a question, how long do you think 1 spraycan lasts? So say you wanted to engrave exactly what you did (same design, same knife size), how many knifes could you engrave before you run out of spray??
Just want to say I like your videos but I don't agree with your statement at the end when you say that pretty much proves the Dry Moly isn't worth it. I've done plenty of good quality engraving using the dry moly and as stated in other comments you need to do more extensive parameter testing before you can make a statement like that.
In this video, I have seen like 5 glowforge machine ads, showing amateur ends ideas like if they were something you can make money. Here or facebook will be the same(this annoy ads about glowforge machine expensive useless) when I just need info about what Co2 laser to photo engrave at really good quality.
It can do stainless steel. At least my 130w co2 can do it up to 0.7 mm at 75% power, that's all I tried so far. Other metals nope. But it's slow and not economical. Also you need a ton of air assist. Pure oxygen would be ideal.
@@bradynields9783 There is no correct answer to your question. Laser machines are from 300$ up to a few millions $. Sky is the limit here. If we are talking about cheap budget friendly fiber laser we are talking between 20.000 and 100.000$. So it all depends on your wallet and your goals.
Spraying rubbing alcohol on it after laser marking it makes the dry lube drip right off. Your doing unnecessary work scrupping. Spray with alcohol then wipe away easily
Poor Chris, gives decades of his life to a company and all he gets is a crappy pocket knife with some hastily made and poorly aligned engravings on it... lol
