i notice, you didn't mention tightening the topping lift, at the overview, this IS IMPORTANT, as when the halyard is lostened, the boom will just drop, without the topping lifts' support.
Yes this is important and for me my topping lift always on but just slack when close hauled so when I lower the sail the booms comes down a bit but not all the way. Having said that having the topping lift on before lowering the sail is best practice and definitely makes tying in the Leeds reefing lube much easier. In April I’m upgrading to a Boom Kicker an alternative to a rigid boom bang but this will do away with my topping lift. Once installed I’m going to reshoot the video
Thanks ! I took sailing lessons many moons ago, then finally bought my own boat recently. Trying to remember how to do all the things I used to know how to do, this was very helpful.
One of the best video in the series so far. I can appreciate the complexity of the task and this is really helpful. Going for an "Introduction to sailing" class next week, super excited. Thanks!
Thanks for a very good illustrative instruction video. I like you to give clear commands. Have you been in the armed forces? I have been officer in the Danish Air Force and Army ;-)
Lovely presentation. I like rhe slip knotted sailtie for the bunt. Just an added note. Hardening the topping lift isn't needed as much if you have a boom vang strut to let off. Same effect is achieved.
Thanks very much! As a newbie, I love your videos. Question: if you are under conditions where you are wanting to reef, and you have a full sail up, wouldn't it be dangerous to trim the mainsheet tight? I think I've done this after heaving to in the past...
Thank you for the kind comment Robert. As for your question, it’s not that straightforward. Sometimes trimmings the main sheet tight can actually stall it making it less powerful. Also a lot will depend on your particular boat. The only reason I say too harden the main sheet in my video is because my toppling lift is at the mast and I was always taught to harden the mainsail anytime crew are going forward or coming back. Once the crew are clear the main is eased, Hardening the main while hove to is not dangerous. In a perfect world my topping lift would be led back like all my other lines and then I would not have to harden the main. Hope this clears things up.
On your system all lines go back to the cockpit except the topping lift. Why not lead the topping lift back to the cockpit; preferably alongside the vang? Then nobody has to go forward. I always use a black sail tie through the clew and round the mainsail bunt. It makes it easier to notice when I'm shaking out a reef and have forgotten to untie it! As a single hander in my seventies I have a laminated card with reefing bullet points in the cockpit which I read (occasionally!) before I put in the first reef.
Thank you for the comment David. You might have missed it but I have mentioned a few times in various videos my intention to do just that. I really need to lead that topping lift aft. I love your checklist. Thanks fir watching.
there are pro's and con's for leading the toppinglift to the cockpit. -the pro's are mentioned in the video - the con's are the following. There is the risk that the boom falls down completely into the cockpit or hitting a crewmember when the toplift- clutch is freed unwillingly in a hurry or by an incompetent crewmember. You can of course install a boomvang, which holds up the boom.
I'm sailing my first non-furling mainsail boat as skipper in 1 month - I found this very helpful - vague memories of doing this when I was taught - this is as clear an explanation as I've seen. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this awesome video 👍 👏 as new starter I'm going to have to binge on your previous videos. I need to learn fast as i need to get a boat to practice on 🤞🤞🤞 👌👍🙏💯 ✌❤☘ 🌬⛵
To eliminate having to go forward to adhust the topping lift, you could disconnect it from the boom end and install a small Harken (etc) two block purchase between the boom and lift. This allows you to adjust boom height from the cockpit. I have a cleat mounted on boom end to tie it off. The bitter end goes through the center loop in the cleat with a stopper knot so I wont lose the line. I recently also added a small cam cleat to allow rapid adjustment on the fly. Cheers
Thanks for the comment. The only problem with that is in order to safely get to the topping lift you have to sheet the mainsail all the way in. For me I don't always want to have to do that. Ultimatley the best solution, as suggested by a viewer is a rigid boomvang. I will be installing one and doing a video on it. theriggingco.com/2017/04/03/the-vang/
Very informative and well presented. I have seen some articles on single line reefing. A single line runs through the luff cringle, down along the boom, up through the leech cringle, down the mast, and aft to the cockpit. It seems like this would be a simpler setup. Can you discuss the disadvantages of rigging this way?
I’m not a fan of single line reefing as it adds way too much friction. In fact my boat came out of the factory with single line reefing and I changed it to two lines for each reef.
To Marco and assisting crew member: Sincere thanks for best explanation and great photography in demonstrating how to reef the main.I subscribed and look forward to your other clips.Good sailing/Rick/Seattle
Would you soften the lifting line before you garden the main sheet? Seems it would put a lot of stress on the lifting line when the sheet is pulling down on it?
Yes. If I understand you correctly you would ease the topping lift when your sail is fully reefed and before hardening the main sheet. It’s not do much the strain on the topping lift that’s the problem, it’s not being able to properly tension the mainsail especially the leech twist
Excellent video. I am an ASA sailing instructor and refer my students to you. A couple of questions: 1) how do you luff the main for reefimg? Use the engine to point up head to wind, go hove to, or sail a close reach on jib only and sheet out the main? Seems like using a motor to go head to wind would be terribly uncomfortable and the jib would flog itself to shreds. 2) all our club boats have single line reefing. Do I tighten it to where the new clew is pulled to boom level before I harden the halyard? Im thinking I have to. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind comment Phil. I used to heave to but now prefer to continue sailing close hauled or close reach with the wind forward of the beam. The boat sails fine with just the headsail and I ease out the main to reef. You could use the engine after having lowered or furled the headsail but that seems very counter productive to me.
@@CarpeDiemSailingMagazine I saw ome fellow that claims to be able to use single line reef on the main while on a broad reach. Might be dependant on wind and sea state.
@@philwinner1806 I have never been a fan of single line reefing. My boat came from the factory with single line reefing but I quickly changed it. Like you I am very skeptical of single line reefing downwind. To answer your question, yes you would have to harden the line into the clew first which flies in the face of proper safe mainsail reefing, another reason I'm not a fan. As with in mast roller furling this is just another attempt at building a better mousetrap but doesn't really work.
I wanted to ask or make a similar point. The video is very instructive and all is shown not in a hurry. But " in a real world" at sea reefing is often necessary in not so convenient conditions(in the night, rising strong wind, waves). But you answered my question already. I would also sail further on the headsail and reefing the main instead of starting the engine after getting down or furl in the headsail.
Thank you for the comment. I get your point but the reality is that on my boat the only thing happening at the mast is the lowering and raising of the topping lift. On some boats the entire reefing process is at the mast. If I had the topping lift led aft or better yet, a rigid boom vang, I would not have to go to the mast at all. Every boat is different and what's important is to understand the sequence.
Finally an example of four line reefing like the system that came on the boat we purchased. Turns out we were using it correctly but I was concerned the leech reefing line should go through the sail with the bitter end tied to the boom below that point (our boat main is loose footed). We currently have it setup as an outhaul like you show. Thanks for the clarification, appreciate your videos as we learn something from each and every one.
Thanks Montana Dan, I really appreciate your support. Funny enough my boat came from the factory with single line reefing (which I hate almost as much as in mast roller furling). I added the two extra lines. I would also like my topping lift led aft then all my lines will be in the cockpit and I will have no reason to go forward.
@@kleitosaliagas5668 Why wouldn't you? In-mast furling forces a much thicker, heavier and stiffer mast, giving you a lot more weight aloft, and even with the main fully rolled in, the entire weight of the sail is still up there. The furling mechanism is also high up, with the bottom part being hard to access for maintenance on a larger boat, and the top part almost impossible (requires climbing the mast). If it gets stuck, you'll have a right miserable time with the sail partially out until you (hopefully) can fix the mechanism. It may not even be possible to get down in a bad situation. It's much harder to make a mainsail with vertical battens that also holds the shape well. Horizontal battens aren't an option for in-mast furling (there are rollable battens but they don't work well and wear out very quickly). Roller furling is fine, but it has to be in-boom furling in that case. Keeps the weight low, both for the larger boom, the furling mechanism and the sail. It's also a lot more accessible for maintenance or repair and requires no climbing. You can also use normal sails, perhaps with minor tweaks to suit the roller furling mechanism. You can use horizontal battens for better sail shape. And finally, if the furling mechanism fails, you can still reef or completely lower the sail in the normal way.
@@mytube001 agree with your arguments, but it's a fact that the vast majority of the boats in the charter-sector use mastin- furlingsystems. And of course they are a big help for the not so experienced charter-crew. And of course you have to know some tricks to work with them in all conditions.
A nice review. I like your reefing tie-down system. Simple and effective. As a single-hander, I need to be very methodical in my approach. Slow and steady and reef as soon as I get the feeling that it will be required.
You indicate that the excess sail should be tied around the boom at the reef points which is counter to what Wallace Ross advises in his book Sail Power. I prefer your clew end tie off which reminds me of what I use to keep the clew of my Laser close to the boom.
@@CarpeDiemSailingMagazine Yes I recall that. What I am saying is that Wallace Ross says "Do Not" tie around the boom at the reef points so the tied sail is free to move away from the boom. I actually like your method better because it keeps the clew down to the boom while still allowing the sail to take a natural shape and it reminds me of a short loop that I use on my Laser to keep the clew tight to the boom. Tying around the boom forces the sail to form to a linear foot. Appreciate your work to put together the videos...keep them coming!
@@go4itpc I know exactly what you mean. I just started sailing Lasers again and have been using a little velcro strap to hold the clew to the boom. Thanks for the support. I am just in the process of editing several videos to include Single Handed Gybing, Lowering the Mainsail, Basic Plotting Part 2 and Mooring Buoy Part 2
Thanks for the question and for watching the video Ronan. Closing the hatch is a safety measure so that there is no way that someone can fall down through it when walking around on deck. I have always encouraged this habit with my students even if the boat is equipped with a dodger. It's just a good habit to get into to prevent potential serious injury.
Great video! Thanks for doing these. Where was it shot? What port were you in? What time of year was it? It looks really nice. The mist and the trees. Where is your accent from?
Thank you for the comment. The video was shot on Bowen Island near Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada. It was late August and the "mist" you see is actually forest fire smoke. My accent is from eastern Canada. Thanks for watching.
I have a hard time understanding the point with reefing videos recorded under conditions not requiring reefing. (at the dock e.g.) The following shows reefing under more realistic circumstances: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y7OS2OnITfk.html
You're not the only one to have this opinion. Frankly I'm surprised that some people don't see the benefits of learning to reef in calm conditions at the dock. It is certainly not meant to represent real life conditions, it is simply a starting point to make it easier for people new to the sport to understand and get the steps and the flow of the manoeuvre in a controlled setting. I have recently filmed "reefing in real life conditions" and this will be a follow up to my first video on reefing.
@@CarpeDiemSailingMagazine in my sailing club here in Chicago, we reef at the dock depending on wind conditions. We can make sure the correct points are set. The sail is set when the main goes up. I been watching your videos for awhile now, and sometimes more than once to get better understanding after being out on the water. My club is a teaching club and I am teaching skills I learned while still learning myself. I am working on trying to explain sail shape, lift, and tell tales etc. Thanks for your explanations
@@nealrosenholtz7116 always good preparing your boat as good as possible for the sea- and windstate when leaving harbour. But on a longer trip- perhaps even through the night- you will experience various conditions- so you have to change your " sailcloth" in relation. Having said this- also rather near your harbour on a nice afternoon-sail the weather can change rapidly so you have to reef your sails on the ocean.
I enjoy your videos very much. If I may, I’d like to offer some constructive criticism. Though teaching beginner level procedures and techniques, the quantity and delivery speed of the sailing jargon leaves a beginner like me behind. When you talk of, and point to something out of frame, I have to mentally search for the meaning of the term that you are using. They’re not second nature yet. A video edit to B roll video that highlights the item, touching it, or simply speaking the explanation of the term would be helpful. The sheer number of sailing-specific terms and the speed at which they are delivered is overwhelming and leaves me behind. Of course, if your intended audience is not beginners, then maybe it’s completely appropriate. Regardless, thanks for the videos and reading this student’s perspective. 👍🏻
Thank you for your comment and support, I appreciate the feedback. It is an ongoing challenge. I try to balance the content for beginners and more experienced alike but the Learn to Sail series is aimed at beginners. I do try to repeat procedures from a couple of perspectives. In my last video I had not shot any of those scenes you mention but luckily found some B roll to add in when detailing a specific task. I also try to zoom in and use slow motion to isolate certain parts of the skill. I know I speak fast and I will make an effort to slow down and explain more clearly in the future. Thanks again.
I appreciate the use of specific terms. They were developed for a reason, to avoid ambiguity, and we beginners should force ourselves to learn and communicate with others in the trade. Even if that means watching the same video a few times and Googling a few words.
