In this video we show how to rig a preventer to ensure that any accidental gybe doesn’t hurt people, damage the boat or add to your level is over anxiety
one safety point in the "rig test", do it with the mainsheet tighter, and the mainsheet car out that side, so this has the "force of the boom" if anything where to go aloof, the main can only swing as much as there is mainsheet slack, stopping a "Chinese Gybe" from harming the crew. this also heels the boat less, as the point of pull of the mainsheet is further to the leeward side, so less mechanical advantage on the keel, less heel, and a safer deck, the rudder is also in the water deeper, so is more effective, so less chance of losing control of boat position (the main reason for a "Chinese Gybe" initiating, also if in high winds, REEF the lot, the less force on the rig, the slower the boom is likely to move, and also you have more control of it with the mainsheet tackle, as the lower the sail is the calmer the wind the sail feels.
Great video, I learned a lot from it. I could be missing something here, perhaps you could clear something up for me. I'm wondering what would you do with the preventer if you wanted to gybe the sails to a starboard tack? Would you have to disconnect the preventer, gybe, then redeploy preventer on the other side? Thanks.
Excellent John. Very useful. Thank you so much. I was just wondering about the loading on the preventer, particularly any 'snatch' loads that might occur in the course of a gybe. Clearly the use of a preventer line led via the forward cleats is a more robust arrangement than using the pole downhaul, but I assume that the downhaul would be absolutely fine for the job? When the preventer line goes round the forward cleats, do you just let it hang round the forward arm of the cleat and let it rest there under tension, or could you lead it through the centre of the cleat - to avoid it slipping off the cleat if the tension came off the line for some reason?
Thanks for this John, both good questions and the answers would depend entirely on the context. In relatively light breeze and for a short period of time I might use the downhaul. If it was for a prolonged period I would use the preventer and I would consider taking it through the centre of the cleat. Downside is that it takes longer to re rig after a gybe.
You need the pole down haul for the pole. It takes just a couple minutes to put up the pole. I always try to encourage people to use the pole more often.
It is an option though, which is exactly what the commentary said. Making appropriate choices on each occasion relies on knowing what choices are available.
Indeed, I wouldn’t use the downhaul if I expected to use the pole but that will depend on how long I was expecting to be on that gybe for. It is nice and easy to pole out the head sail and I will probably make that the subject of another video.
Hi, sorry if I am missing the obvious here but don't think I quite got the actions needed when gybing with the preventor. the video to me just showed the boat going in one direction, how does it work if you want to gybe to starboard? apolagies again its all new to me as a learner sailor but would like to understand as I am always anxious of unintended gybe on a broad reach
You make a good point, I was really concentrating on here on showing how to use the preventer to prevent a gybe or to limit the danger. I perhaps should’ve demonstrated better the act of gybing with the preventer rigged. In essence, sheet the main into the centre while easing the preventer line. Then gybe. Ease the main a little while bearing away then re-rig the preventer but on the other side. I will try to include this in another video.
what!, the first sentence doesn't make any sense, " you are very very broad reaching, then going to lunch", yuck, as the term "reaching" means the actions in ones' stomach when one is being sick, or vomiting.
