You've got to take your time for things. Don't rush, and don't start a dozen things and not finishing them. When I was building my place, I similarly had tons of stuff that needed to get done. Assume things will take longer than you anticipate, but don't let that get to you. Make a checklist, and physically cross things off the list. Enjoy the process itself, and you'll get there.
I agree with upnorthandpersonal. Make a checklist and pace yourself. Don't have too many irons' in the fire with boat projects. You'll get it done. Really nice seeing the boat again. Keep your chin up Madi.
Maybe get the priority work completed to enjoy her on the water this season. Non-Electric 2024 Sailing locally. Enjoy "That Girl", would maybe help you bond even closer. Just a thought. I always loved being on the water with my sloop. Passed up too many oportunities to sail because of needed work. Overnighters were always The Best! @@TheDigitalMermaid
Lists! My ADHD likes sticky lists. You can create free ones in Miro or/and get several colors. Keep a note pad in your pocket and just jot anything you find. Then you can add the new items to stickies on your wall (color coded by area) and that way you can shuffle them around as you find new priorities. Stickies on stickies can keep notes (i.e. clean bilge. Sticky underneath can remind you to replace a wire while you're in there) beegeezis I want to get up there to help!! 😅 she looks good!
Find a pebble and put it on the edge of the tarp. Then grab around the pebble from the other side and tie a string around it like a doll's head. Now you don't need the eyelets anymore and it actually holds better this way. :)
Whoa. The cause of the near miss was when someone used the negative color cable for a positive cable. The mitigation (red tape and shrink)!almost didn’t work. Good catch. A good rule on the Dyneema rig is: if you are the kind of person who will constantly be monitoring/adjusting rig to tweak performance and just every day tension, it is great/better. Ok At some point, I predict a small new socket set and a few other “oh, balls” preventing duplicate tools to be kept on the boat… Nice video update. Good to see the tarp failure had almost no bad outcome!
Aye... That cable absolutely needs to be replaced... I've got colour coded wiring everywhere else, and I've gotten complicit on trusting the colour. Thankfully, I've got a fuse on the battery so I wouldn't have started a fire, but it would have ruined my day. I know I'll catch hell for that, and almost cut it out, but figured it was possibly helpful for others, so I left it in. Also, ya, duplicate tools are starting to be a thing already... haha.
@@TheDigitalMermaid no hell tossing intended!!! My refit is full of original to boat black negatives and grounds along with all the new yellows. Labels help a lot, too. I have a project for my grandsons this summer to find every unlabeled wire/cable and get grandpa to tell them and have them put a label on each. All DC Negatives that are black will get a yellow label and yellow heat shrink near any termination. Grounds will get green. It should be a good bonding experience (weak pun sorta indended😇) Again, great video.
Aye, when I rewire her, I'll be careful with colour coding the wire, and labelling EVERYTHING. I hate looking at something and wondering what it's for. :)
An important rule in boating...never ever tie anything to the boat stands. They should be chained together. If you use a tarp to cover your boat, tie gallon water jugs to the eyelets. the weight of the jugs filled with water will keep the tarp secured.
Hi Maddi the plug you asked for ist PL 259 and it is used for your VHF in the past. If you want to replace the cable, search for a low loss one and maybe find Silver N-Connectors (expensive) for the outside connections because they have rubber sealing by default and much better contact loss for VHF and higher frequency. Don`t bend it like the original cable. That are my 2 Cent for this. Cheers Marc
How do you eat an elephant? one bite at a time. You got this. It might help to reframe it this way: your journey IS your destination - there will be setbacks but you kind of have to see it as stopping to smell the roses along the way.
Aye, generally I know this. I think it was mostly being caught off guard with the tarp being ripped off that got me feeling a bit overwhelmed. All good though, onward!
You learnt an important early lesson. Always prepare for a storm such as not leaving stuff on deck. Yeah there is lots to do, but like software development, break it into modules to help it not seem so overwhelming. I agree weather proofing should be high on your to do list as it prevents further damage. I saw spider cracks in the deck surface near the stations that will need to be addressed. It would be nice to have raised pads under the station bases but I don't think you could have that with the incorporated toe rail. When we got our latest boat I figured it would be 5 years before I got her ship shape. I was sailing her each summer but my must do projects took about that much time. I get to start the 2nd pass at the battery system this weekend. I wouldn't worry too much about servicing the engine as you probably won't get a return on the effort, just have videos available of it running.
Thankfully, I've got lots of video of the trip home from Annapolis and along the Erie Canal, engine runs a treat. Agreed also on the engine, I want to degrease it and clean it up, maker her pretty. If I have to take parts off though, well, that much nicer for who ever gets her next.
Apropos the two motors and belt drives. Do you NEED to use two belts? Can you not have one belt and run it around both motors and the prop shaft.??? Then you can have one motor driving and one freewheeling... redundancy and the easy option to choose the motor best suited to conditions... Or even run both if your fighting mad currents again. BTW, I'M guessing you will use tooth belt pillows (cam-belt type) ...and remember that they need a good tension to avoid slipping/jumping so a SOLID motor mount is needed (we use these belts from the steam engine to the prop shaft) can send pictures if it helps... Keep going 😁
I didn't mention it in the video, but I am worried about trying to remove the prop outside. That said, if it's a choice between dropping the rudder and taking the prop off outside, ya, I might try to do just that. :)
Not just to please the algorithm but I feel the need to say how much I've enjoyed the last several videos. Thank you. I wait gratefully for the next update.
For your stanchion base, you could create one in CAD and get it (or all of them) 3d-printed and then use 'lost wax casting' and cast them in bronze. There is a very good few videos on here making custom bronze boat bits
Congratulations, moving on. I'm finishing a power generation project, with arduino, stm, magnets..and much more....to do this I built a CNC machine, 600 pounds...just to say, anything is possible..
If you will change of the VHF coaxial cable, keep in mind, the radius of the curve of the inner edge of any bend, shall not be less than 6(better 10) times the coaxial cable overall diameter!
Brave video Maddy. Sometimes even rationalizing can't push the overwhelming feeling away. It just hits. But remember the only reason it can hit is because your heart is in it, and it is that same heart that will find and pump the energy to find ways to get your dream further and further.
I really want folks to try and go after Big Things. At the same time, I know I've often thought that "bad days" meant that I didn't have what it took to make it work, because I rarely saw people who did big things have those bad days. I really hope that showing all the ups and downs helps folks not get discouraged. Just gotta ride it out and then keep going. :)
There is something wonderful about the unseen properties of a mechanical/electronic thing as a camera, which in a strange way pulls in way more in than was foreseen from the, often alone, person in front of it, . As a result a lot of Hollywoodian over dramatized pulp is on RU-vid which tries to pull a viewer in, but with often a very adverse result. You made a good choice here by keeping it simple, as small as one than is!
There is a distance you need to stay away from the hull with a prop. Not just don't hit, but a ratio. Also I have a spreadsheet that calcs the proper size prop in Diameter and Pitch based on the hull shap and HP of the the engine and gear reduction if you want it.
I know I mentioned this to you elsewhere, but for others who might read; Absolutely correct. I took a bunch of measurements as requested by Brunton and they used that to find the largest I could safely use on my boat. :)
weel, one plus is that for a long time you will knowh what to spend your, after work time on :-) Aleast the missing tarp did result in a boat full of warter.
The connector is a PL-259 sometimes called a UHF connector. Not sure about the cable there are several inserts for where the cable goes in based on cable type.
@@TheDigitalMermaid kewl RG-8 does not require an adaptor. You could maybe reuse the one you have by unsoldering it and cleaning it up. His pervert they are relatively cheap as they are used in all kinds of communication systems. It mates to a pl-258 (barrel) for extending it or the panel mount version which I cannot remember the part number. They are super common for lower frequency applications. If it’s handling actual radar signals instead of downconverted signals (unlikely) a better connector choice would be type “N”. I would be sure and seal it throughly before putting it back up. I like to wrap the connector and a bit of the cable with scotch 33 electrical tape then put some either liquid electrical tape over it or self sealing rubber tape. Good luck. Love your YT. Hopefully I’ll get a boat one day lol.
Hi Mandy. Keep up the good work and don’t be discouraged by the mountain of work ahead. A brief note. Checking the battery voltage (on a lead acid battery) immediately after turning off the charger will tell you nothing. The battery will have to be at rest for a number of hours before a measured voltage will tell you anything meaningful. Ciao. Mark K. Ireland.
Oh good point! Well, the charger was into absorption for a good couple of hours, so I am pretty confident it's got a good charge, but ya I forgot about how LA batteries settle. Cheers!
Try western tarp 51 Belfield Road, Toronto, Ontario, M9W 1G6 I find they last around 5+ years. Thy have web ties and I have never had a failure. Cost is around 1/2 of shrink warp. The tarp should be at yeast 10 ft longer than the boat to cover the strong back.
I had once when on the hard a likewise quality tarp mounted on my boat: It blew to smithereens the first night, didn't even got a 24 hour working life. Those tarps are essentially not suited for that task. Just imagine how much force you get on your sails... Perhaps heavy tarp they use in lorries would be a good an not too expensive choice. The best of course is a tarp professionally made where the forces on the rings are spread by webbing. (if that is the right word)
I think the stanchions are steel and the base are aluminium. I found replacements though, and not toooo expensive, so I'm just going to replace the damaged one.
Tarps have knocked down some of my stands that were to chained together left and right (we're on land now). Tarps don't last long since they flap so much. The little rings pull out with the first strong winds. I have tied the sides together running a rope left to right. The snug fit worked better. But the wind will find ANY loose side and start the flapping. That is the one good reason for shrink wrapping and hoping the yard has a good way to recycle the plastic. YELLOW is GROUND/NEGATIVE. Misusing the wrong color in spite of the proper RED tape still is a source of mixups as you demonstrated. I realize you were trying to make do with what you had knowing you would be reworking things this summer.
People call me crazy when I want to mark cables that should *really* not be connected the wrong way around with some text, a piece of tape with some transparent paper sandwiched inbetween... tying it to the location where it should go... putting an A4 on the wall explaining what the situation is... or just plain putting a switch there so there is no need to disconnect it. And then I see this and I feel completely justified 🙂 Not saying you did wrong, just feeling really smug.
Heh, normally I label everything, but I didn't as this was supposed to be trip-home-wiring, then get ripped out. Alas, here I am still trying to solve insurance...
Try to keep your motor pulleys as large as you can. Small ones cause the belts to flex maximally and avoiding that makes for a more reliable setup. A compound 2:1 setup might be worth considering.
Not a mechanical engineer, but I also wonder if pulley sizes impact belt drive efficiency. After all, if it’s getting hot and wearing out, that’s energy not going to the propeller. Edit: At risk of being overbearing… I suggest you plan to include a cover over the top of the belt drive mechanics. Wouldn’t want it to snag clothing / finger / hair…
Unfortunately Radars aren't system agnostic and do require a compatable head unit, if you want Radar you would have to get a new system, however it might be possibly to use your raymarine radar (if it is still functional) with a signalK, opencpn system, though thinking about it, with your background, maybe looking into signalK and opencpn would be a good way for you to go with boat navigation aids
Aye, after I got home I looked that up. I do see that some radars are compatible with OpenCPN though, so that's very much what I'll try to do. Probably not until next summer though, as I was off in my estimate and the prices are closer to 2500 + tax.
First thing, why even measure the voltage? You are removing everything anyway. Tell us about the insurance problems, that is important. Please your energy level is past 100, Love you. Focus on a plan. Take it step by step and I know you will succeed. Love your pony tail.
With lead acid type batteries, the voltage gives an indication of the state of charge. I was curious how much the battery discharged while I was away, and by accident, made me realize that the charger wasn't connected. I talk more about insurance in the past videos, but in short, I'm having trouble finding an underwriter who will cover me during and after the conversion to electric. I have insurance now, but it's only valid while the diesel is in the boat.
@@TheDigitalMermaid you may have a conduit in the mast but also the common trick is to bundle wires- add some 6 inch 10 cm sections of pool noodle and wire ties poking out in three directions every 18 inches. Sorry bad at cm maybe 35? Anyway you’ll thank me if you ever spent a night on anchor with wire clanging in the mast!
A good substitute is RG-213 white marine coax that is USCG and ABYC approved or you can probably go with RG-8X white marine grade, also USCG and ABYC approved. It’s smaller diameter cable with comparable losses on such a short run, RG-8X being slightly more loss as its a smaller cable. You don’t really run any high (kilowatt) RF power to use RG-8/RG-213. You would need small reducer(s) UG176 to use the PL-259’s. Use high quality silver plated PL-259’s as there are lots of cheap nickel ones that will cause issues. Use Scotch-brand "2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical tape to weatherproof connectors.
Now that I know the cable is RG8, and I see it's not staggeringly expensive for the Ancor stuff, I'm thinking I'll wait until I buy the new radio. Whatever it used for the connection, I'll use the same in the junction box under the settee as well. Radio/analog is something I'll always step up to buy the better quality stuff, especially given the safety factor of the radio. Thanks for the info on the sealant!
The radar dome of that generation will have a big fat multi pole cable for connection. Very difficult to route. The new generation Raymarine Quantum radar domes connect by ethernet. Normally plotters and radar domes go together where it comes to brand and even generation. Quantum II radar dome with doppler is great for it makes reading the info on the screen very much easier to understand, You have to research yourself is there is an open standard radar dome that you could hook up to open source thingies. Old Raymarine plotter that could still use the old radar dome suck at AIS, you certainly won't want to go that route. Oh, and yes, the new Quantum dopplers use less energy, and can use WIFI for connection. The latter is not recommended: wiring is the way to go to my opinion, (and others, the reliable choice)
Funny enough, I was looking at radars supported by OpenCPN, and the doppler model was exactly what I was thinking of. Spendy though! Haha. Having a simple ethernet cable is something I really like.
I might be able to... If I pull the prop out while the transmission is still there, I could get some 1-1/8" dowel and use the transmission to line up the dowel, and then fix it in place before pulling out the transmission... Thanks for this, I've got a new idea now!