Congrats Dan on the Brand's Hatch IndyKa 500 win. Two solid sessions (almost!) behind the wheel to help set it up. Congrats to the rest of the team who kept everything together in the difficult conditions. A nice way to end the season!
Tyres are always an odd one, there's quite a few of us running the MRFs on our Clios and absolutely love them, I normally go with 23/24psi front and 26ish rear when cold, they seem to come up around 30psi hot and stay there. But what works for me doesn't always work for everyone else I suppose! Looking forward to the race vlog, always love an XXL DannyEP3 upload.
@@eternalextrapolations Again, it's different for everyone. I tried running higher pressures and the car felt skittish and didn't have much grip. They've lasted me a year of trackdays so I can't be going too wrong with them.
@@martinc8532 Fair enough if they've lasted. Did you notice any unusual tyre wear pattern? I would expect to put 30psi minimum into a tyre, and I have noticed more grip with less pressure but figured that was underinflated.
@@eternalextrapolations they're wearing pretty evenly to be fair, nothing unusual. I had a little excess outside shoulder wear but the car had a shitty alignment on it so I'd say that was the main cause. My only real complaint about the MRF is the price now. However if I decide to enter Time Attack next year I'm going to have to switch to AR-1 anyway! So we'll see how it all goes!
@@martinc8532 yeah it makes sense that they'd wear more on the edges than the center if they're underinflated, but no arguing that there's more grip that way. A different tyre brand can make a big difference as to how the car feels as far as steering and tracks as well as grips. Cheers and best of luck in your next outing!
In the past I had loads of issues with the camber and alignment on my EP3. The camber bolts were getting loose for no good reason every track day, so I completely replaced the suspension and overtorqued the camber bolts. Last time the camber stayed the same, but got 6-8 min of toe in per wheel after the race, but that could have been due to the springs settling in. We will see how it goes next year.
Gonna find it hard to answer these ep3 specific questions as I was just treating it as a race car, but yeah the steering is floppy compared to anything else
@@dannyDC2 I've found when I've boiled other brands, I have to bleed to get the pedal back, not with Castrol SRF, something something about not giving off vapor when boiled..
Hi Danny, probably you are aware of this, there´s been a few reports of baffle sumps issues on trackdays. I believe some EP3 owners are removing these and just top up oil above max.
I run a baffle and 1 quart up over what the spec from Honda is. I cant remember how even the dipstick is to the pick up. But even street driving it always empty while running
never heard of baffled sumps causing issues on trackdays, never had an issue with my K20s in the past. The issue here was (spoiler alert) vtec solenoid
@@dannyDC2 make sure you have a decent flowing oil filter some nasty one's restrict a few psi to the top end. also dodgy TPS sensor not showing full throttle
Love your videos mate, some of the best content I’ve seen on the tube 👍 I’m mega into this kind of stuff but admittedly a massive noob. How or where did you learn to drive a car with such control and confidence? Start with track days? I’d love to become a much better driver and improve myself confidence wise and have the ability to control a car in oversteer etc. keep it up!
I saw the 2 50p's comment coming ... still made me lol. If you had free choice, what tyres would be your preference on the EP3? I'm using AR-1s on my FN which have been decent...but not sure what to go for when they need replacing. Great content once again sir.
Im assuming you have a baffled sump? When its dropping out of vtec going round corners to me the pick up isnt getting enough oil due to the oil being pushed to one side. But im assuming you know that already. Possibly the solenoid needing a clean or replacement?
RE your oil prezsure. You definitely want to check the what baffle you have in the sump. This a common problem with the K seeies and will destroy you engine if left. i had a budget baffle in mine and was dropping below 30psi coming out of tight left handers. The problem is the pickup is foward in tje sump and evem with side baffles the oil can still run away to the back of the sump under acceleration.
geez that thing loves to oversteer, did you buy a RR converted ep3 haha. nice driving to save it. what was the issue with oil pressure, oil pump itself or the oil pan needing baffles or something?
Nice driving man, the rear camber really did the job, how many degrees did you put on the rear? Also, based on your experience it would be cool to make a wheel alignment video for both fwd and rwd.😁
Recently tried those MRFs on our Mini. When they are in their working window they are pretty decent, but the window seems very narrow and when they let go they completely let go. Not a fan, much prefer Yoko A052s.
I had a ep2 and steering was horrible on it, recently got a fn2 wont go back to a older honda again, even drove a ep3 and steering response felt horrible
What geometry you using or is it secret, 😂, played with rear toe on my ep3 rally car - makes loads of difference, go to big and it will drive like shopping trolly
Vtec solenoid okay? Been sat trying to guess when the trick will be for getting it turned in, carrying more throttle on entry maybe? Brake bias further forward and carry the throttle to prevent locking on the front axle
hi danny, nice session, I think it's just a matter of adjusting the shock absorber, especially the rear can be a little too hard, I think you have too much rebound since your tires are slicks or semi slicks!!
Danny i'm fairly new to your channel but your content is great thanks for the uploads. Where did you learn to work on your cars are you a mechanic? Is that how you get the skill level to work on cars properly? Cheers!
When you turn left the k series has a problem with oil going up around the timing chain. Get a baffled pan. Edit- get rid of the eccentric bolts in the back and buy adjustable arms of you can
@@dannyDC2 well you might have to pull the pan off and see what the setup is. Some pans don't baffle around the oil pump so oil will go up through behind the timing cover
Able to change ratios? You seem to be in and out of gears a little bit too much. Generally pretty decent but seem to keep braking like it's a RWD car, which is no surprise since you race the MR2 😁
@@dannyDC2 that's a shame! And yeah there's a few spots where just a little bit more brake will help your stability, some of the times you come off the brake just a tad too early and the weight gets properly thrown off. That being said it's a lot harder without ABS. but let's see if the brake tip these guys have you helps this (will see in the race vlog 😁) Just want to add I'm a driver coach not just a random chatting shit on a keyboard, you're doing a cracking job and it's great to see your pace improving compared to season one of MR2s. Loving the content
