An informational video featuring Chad Erlandson from our very own EPI testing facilities to help you install your clutch kit properly. www.epiperformance.com
For the 400 we only offer our economy kit witch includes wet clutch springs along with the secondary spring its a nice all around improvement. everything will look the same from the one on the video. thanks
Yes the 450 uses the same process to work on the clutches so the video is a great help. All the kits we offer for that machine inlcude the wet clutch springs, secondary spring and roller weights. Some people dont install the wet clutch springs, but then you wont get the full potential out of the clutch kit.
I would check to make sure the rollers are not out of place from when you changed the belt. Then I would look at the wet clutch for wear and slippage. Also make sure you only run oil that is wet clutch compatible if you do not that will also make the wet clutches slip severely bad.
@Sbarkowski its because the wet clutch engages faster original that the engine cant get to its rpm`s that is causing the lag this thime the wet clutch engages with higher rpms what means the engine can rev up quicker and then engage what means bether trothel response
The Amsoil 4 stroke atv oil is wet clutch certified-see the label to make sure-it is mentioned there. Perhaps better than the Cat oil if used in the coldest parts of winter-plowing, hunting, ice fishing...withe better cold weather viscosity mix.
My clutch will grab hard when I go to take off Even with a new belt Eeerrrr bang. Then go. Could it be that it is just dirty ? Please comment. Super good video. Very helpful
Yes could be really dirty clutches, flat spots in the rollers, and or a worn belt. A worn one way bearing or on some models with a bearing in the outer clutch cover could be going bad also. I would give it a good cleaning and inspection.
Will this video walk me through the sport/utility kit for the 09 king quad 450axi? Also is there a kit offered that includes everything other then the springs in the wet clutch?
Best thing to do is call our tech line at EPI, 218-829-6036 and we can figure it out for you. I will depend on your riding and tire size of what combination to use.
+IPEpreformance I have a 2006 Suzuki 400 eiger and want to install a clutch kit but I'm not sure what would be best. I want to have better throttle response but also don't want to loose low end torque. What kit would be best for this?
+Kaden Murphy For the 400 Eiger we make a Economy Clutch kit part number WE493040 which will change the wet clutch springs and the secondary spring. The kit will give you more bottom end power and response and will grip the belt better then stock. Top end speed and rpms should stay the same. Your bottom engagement will be a couple hundred higher.
+Kaden Murphy You will get better low end and midrange power and acceleration with the kit along with the faster backshift and throttle response so when ever you are on and off the gas it will react quicker and give you better performance.
When installing new spring, do you rotate counter clockwise to align the collar? I see in the video you rotated the tab to the right to align it. Does it matter or not?
Great video but please correct me if I am wrong, was the belt installed backward? Around 32:50 the arrows are pointing to the left, and the letters are readable. The arrows should point in the direction of travel and they are pointing opposite of the way the belt goes around the clutches.???? Confused
Lol you are correct. That belt gets used on several different machines with clutches on both sides of the machine. The EPI belt is designed so when you start with it new you can run either direction, but once it has been used you want to use it the same way it came off. I think that is the only belt that has the different arrow vs letters. That was a good catch!
Hi, I have a 2004 Arctic Cat 400 Auto 4x4. eventually I'd like to put bigger tires on it. what clutch kit would you recommend for mud holes and trail riding? Thanks!
So my 2007 arctic cat 500 auto will barely move in low gear and I just put a brand new belt on so what do you think could be wrong and im thinking the wet clutches are burnt up
here a Q for u what would the sign be if the springs were going back i have a 2005 suzuki eiger 400 and i was doing like 55-60 but not its more like 35-40
If your secondary spring is getting weak you will see and feel lower rpms which can also lead to lower top speed, slower back shift and throttle response and more belt slippage.
How do you open up the secondary clutch to get enough belt slack to put on the primary when there is no hole at the base of the clutch to put in a bolt?
if there are no holes you will have to carefully force the belt down into the clutch. You might have to push down hard on the belt and rotate the clutch to get it to start moving down into the clutch.
Yes we do! If you watch the 700 Viking video is it pretty much the same process once you get to the clutches. I hope that helps. We are working on adding more videos as we speak.
I have a 98 Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4 X4 and it seems like when I downshift it doesn't click after Rock the bike back and forth it downshifted I got to hit it a couple times it only has about 500 miles on it any suggestions could use some help thanks
We haven't worked on the model so cant tell you for sure. But I would check your shifter linkage and make sure the idle isn't to high where it might be trying to engage the clutches.
Hey epi. I have a 2007 Suzuki king quad 700 and I am having trouble getting my wet clutch off. Can you tell me what tool I need. I have searched everywhere and can’t find it.
Its is a piece tool from Suzuki. i think one of these part numbers has been superceded but here are the number I have. Clutch shoe remover part number 9920-33540 and the sliding shaft part number 09930-30104. These are OEM Suzuki tools.
@@EPIperformance I found it on there but for both of them together it’s gonna be over 300$. It wouldn’t be that big of a deal if it was something I may use again but for something I’m gonna use once and forget about owning it seems pointless. Would I be able to run the sport utility clutch kit with just the secondary spring and the primary rollers without doing the springs in the wet clutch?
@@xaviermiracle2323 Yes you can run it without using our wet clutch springs. It will still perform better then stock, just not as good as it possibly can. The wet clutch mainly effect the engagement and low end response. They dont change top rpms or sppeed so you can use the stock ones.
That could be many different things. If your looking at mainly clutching it could be a worn belt (worn skinny and/or stretched to long) weak springs, dirty or worn clutches. Or a combination of all of these things. Many other things will effect top speed such as dirty air filter, dirty carb, brakes hanging up some, bad bearing or u joint in the driveline.
@@3thirty3.90s Thats good and thank you. That should get your clutching back to where it should be. Hopefully that will take care of it and you'll be good to go.
So the stiffer wet clutch springs means that the clutch will require a higher RPM than stock before it engages? wouldnt that cause a delay in the initial throttle response because the engine would have to rev up more first before the bike will actually move? I have a 2010 550 H1 that suffers from bottom end lag when you hit the throttle (apprently a common concern with the 550). People have told me replacing the stock wet clutch springs will help improve that. Are they right?
You would want to use the Mudder Kit part number WE437653. It will change the wet clutch springs, roller weights, and the secondary spring. It wil give you a lot more low end and midrange power and torque, faster backshift and throttle response and grip the belt better then stock for you.
Ok so I don’t need grease for the rollers??? Hmmm they told me at Yamaha that I needed grease. It’s from you guys so I’ll do what you did. Epi white spring going in my kodiak 700.
Yamaha need grease in them. Arctic Cat and Suzuki do not use grease. Our Grizzly video crashed and doesn't work any more but we have a video on the Viking which uses the same style clutches as the Yamaha atvs and is a good video.
You all have any tips for getting my crank case cover back on. I can’t seem to get it to seat right over the wet clutch. I already cracked my old case so I had to get a new one and still can’t get it to seat right. Help
I haven't ran into that issue before. I know sometimes you have to spin the shaft a little as your installing the cover so it will go over the wet clutch a little easier. The only other thing I could think off is you hae the wrong bearing if you replaced that or maybe the wet clutch is on backwards??
@@EPIperformance I didn’t pull the wet clutch off and I might have damaged the bearing or something because it won’t go on the right way but it will go on backwards. I guess I’ll order a new bearing and see if that helps it
great video! I'm about to do epi clutch kit on my 05 Suzuki king quad 700 and have been trying to research what kit/spring wud be best for me. I plan on putting 18gram rollers and been tossed between the yellow spring or the green spring for the secondary. what difference cud I expect to see between the two springs. I'm running 27" tires with exhaust and air filter mods. snorkeled and a vdi is in the mail. I wud like to stay away from changing the wet clutch springs
+Greg Large For 27" tires most would use the yellow spring for all around use. If all you are doing is mudding or rock crawling and not worried about top end speed then you could use the green spring. But usually the yellow works for most. The green is stiffer so it locks the clutches into low gear longer and will take away some of your top end speed.
+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips You can use an impact to remoce the primary clutch, secondary clutch and wet clutch bolts/nuts. Other then that everything can be done with hand tools. Depending on the year and model of your machine you might need a special tool to get the wet clutch off the machine. Hope that helps.
EPIperformance it did help a lot, I just got both out its a 27 MM socket, but my concern was to put it back again will hand tolls be enough? I think you said yes
+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips A lot of people just use an impact to tighten. its not the recommended way but is what happens a lot. If your doing it by hand you have to be able to hold the clutches from rotating so they get torqued properly.
+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips hey thanks for the tips, I just install it, one last question I have to be able to read the letters on the drive belt? meaning the letters most be easy to read??
Nice job I have a 2009 Arctic Cat 700 how often should I have the belt changed it now has 600 miles on it and the best has never been changed. Lots of forums say 3 to 5K mile what is your thought on this? BTW you make it look easy for sure!
For best overall performance we recommend every 1000 miles. Depending on how and where you drive will change the times some of when you should change. IF you are doing easy riding you should be able to go longer, if you are all out mud riding or hauling and pulling things all the time you will want to sooner. In a lot of situations you can ride 3000-5000 miles on a belt but what happens is as a belt wears it will stretch out longer and get skinnier. This hurts your performance and durability. Usually after 1000 you can see and feel a difference when changing belts. Hope that helps.
Hey EPI, I have a 2004 arctic cat 400 and I’m looking to get some more low end power for going through the mud and faster acceleration, do you guys have a kit that you could recommend? Much appreciated thanks
Hello, yes we have a Economy Clutch kit for your machine. It your machine doesn't have a belt then it would be part number WE490425. If your machine is belt drive then it would be part number WE490400. These kits are designed to give you more low end power and faster throttle response and backshift. You can check them out on our website www.epiperformance.com or call the tech dept at 218-829-6036 for more information.
No you don't have to change the wet clutch springs to run that set up. You would get better low end power and faster response if you did change the wet clutch springs but its not required.
I have a 2009 thundercat, is it common to have some clutch noise? it's really noticeable at low to mid speeds then goes quiet when you let off the the throttle. I've been told that's just what they do. Thinking of purchasing your clutch kit will that help with the noise as well as performance?
The noise could be normal or a sign that your roller housing or clutch sliders are getting worn. Typically though you would hear the noise when you are off the gas and it goes away when you are on the gas. I would suggest at least pulling the cover off and inspect and clean the clutches. The clutch will help your all around performance. No way to tell if it will fix the noise issue though without knowing for sure what the issue is.
Previous owner took it apart and replaced the bearings and still no change. On the gas it makes noise and when you left off it goes completely quiet. Thanks for the reply.
Some times they can be a pain. There are two different ways to install them. One is to leave the clutch shoes on the braket that holds them together and pull the one end of the spring on using a spring tool or needle nose plies. On bpth ways of doing it I would hook one end of each spring into the clutch shoe first and then try to pull the sring into the hole. Sometimes if you cant get them flip the spring ends around and try it. Also a lot of times you can get the end of the spring just barely started into the hole and then tap it down into the rest of the way. The seconda way to install them is to take all the clutch shoes off the bracket and carefully hook all the spring up, usally you can get all of them or at least all but one and then lift them up together and slide them onto the pins on the bracket. I think if you watch our Yamaha video it will show us doing it that way I think. Hope that helps.
was wondering if you could help me I ordered your kit for a King Quad 450 it did not come with the weight housings the plastic parts so they ordered those separate and when I went to put it together the metal weights fit loose very sloppy the factory ones are damaged I'm not sure what to do
EPIperformance I actually contacted the store today and they are exchanging them for the right ones there was almost 8 of an inch of a gap around the ones they sent me
Holy cow that's a big gap. I thought maybe they were fitting just a little loose. Hopefully they can get you the correct ones. If they cant let us know.
We have a lot of different kits available. we would need your model and year of machine, tire size and elevation your riding at and type of riding your doing. You can see a full list on our website www.epiperformance.com
Its meant to be a dry clutch so no grease is needed. There is a very small amount on the inside shaft of the secondary but if you don't wipe it out of the shaft you should be good. You have to be careful because any lube will get spun around and end up on the clutch face and on the belt which will cause a slippage issue.
Hey guyz I'm looking for some torque, i dont care if i loose top speed, im looking for some acceleration and torque, what rollers and spring you recommend me?
We would need to know what year, model and size your machine is. But if your not worried about top end and want lots of bottom end you could go with the Mudder kit for your machine. You can find all our kits and products as www.epiperformance.com
Use Mudder kit part number WE436353. It will have the secondary spring, roller weights and the wet clutch springs to give you the most low end power you can get.
Hi EPI, Can you please recomend me setting for secondary clutch (ABC-1.2.3.4) for Arctic Cat 1000 TRV Int. 2011 ! I bought you Sport Utility kit !!! All best
Suzuki and Arctic Cat use the same style clutches so the process is the same. Suzuki also made a lot of the Arctic Cat snow and atv engines until just the last couple years.
On the 400 Eiger we have the economy clutch kit which changes the wet clutch springs and the secondary spring. It will use your stock weights. It will help will all around performance with better low end, faster backshift and throttle response and grip the belt better for you. Part number is WE493040 price is $79.95
Awsome ok thanks i will order it later thank for all ur help and will al be able to pop a wheelie with it and wat will the backshift do or help my eiger
Arctic Cat and Suzuki have a specific tool to use. What most people end up doing on these models is taking a marker and mark a line on the nut and the clutch before you take the nut off. Then when you go to tighten it you can use a punch and hammer and tighten or if you can find a spanner wrench to tighten it up and line up the lines. If your marks line up you should be pretty close to the factory torques specs. Hope that helps.
Yeah you should be fine as lons as you get it somewhat tight. I haven't ever seen one come loose. You also put a little blue Loctite on the nut if your worried about coming loose.
is the torque spec they recommend so it doesn't come loose or does it have to do with how tight the spring is? i was worried that it had to do with how tight the spring was and that it would affect the performance
Top speed should stay the same as what you have now, it wil vary within a couple mph unless you run the wrong kit for the wrong tire size. Mudder kits might reduce top speed between 5-7 mph, but will depend on your tire size and weight.
Most normal kits with the wet clutch springs will engage 300-500 rpms higher then stock. The Competition Stall springs are a little stiffer and will raise the engagement 700-1000 rpms over stock engagement.
Hi Joe, We have several different kits for that machine depending on what size tires you are running, what type of riding your doing and what elevation you are riding at. If you can get us that info we can get the right kit for you. You can also call our tech line at 218-829-6036. Thanks.
@@joecocherdz Your not to far from us, we are in Minnesota. You would want to use the Mudder Kit part number WE436410 which will give you a lot more low end and midrange power and torque, faster backshift and throttle response and will grip the belt better then stock.
@@EPIperformance awesome I'll be calling in a bit anything else you recommend? It's still stock minus the wheels I want to be able to just RIP. Thank you so much!
The CCT510 clutch compression tool will help you change the secondary spring in the clutch a lot easier. Other then that plan to replace your oil and sometimes your wet clutch gasket (available through an Arctic Cat dealer) and you should be good to go.
Changing the wet clutch springs and roller weights are the same basic process, the secondary spring is a little different. You don't need to wind up the Yamaha spring. We have a video on the Yamaha Viking which would show you how work on the Yamaha clutches. You can find it on our website at www.epiperformance.com and click onto vidoes or check out our youtube page. Thanks
You can install the different parts individually but you wont get the same performance gains. The clutches have to work together, as one opens the other closes. If you change one clutch it might help you in some areas and hurt your performance in others. On most set ups you are better off changing everything together.
Were both clutches and belt cleaned before you installed them back on all oil/grease removed with brake cleaner? When you put it in gear and try to move dose the Primary clutch (the one on the motor) move at all or dose it not move is slipping on the belt? It might be a little easyer to talk over the phone give us a call and we can see what we can get figured out. 218-829-6036
Waste of time and money. I installed EPI clutch and made no difference maybe little less power. Didn't tell my son and when he took out he came back and told me something was wrong lt seems to lack power. Going to put my stock clutch back in. Waste of time and money and oil