EPI Clutch Kit Installation for Arctic Cat and Suzuki 

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Thanks!!

Yes could be really dirty clutches, flat spots in the rollers, and or a worn belt. A worn one way bearing or on some models with a bearing in the outer clutch cover could be going bad also. I would give it a good cleaning and inspection.

Ever figure it out? I’m in the same boat

Best thing to do is call our tech line at EPI, 218-829-6036 and we can figure it out for you. I will depend on your riding and tire size of what combination to use.

+Kaden Murphy For the 400 Eiger we make a Economy Clutch kit part number WE493040 which will change the wet clutch springs and the secondary spring. The kit will give you more bottom end power and response and will grip the belt better then stock. Top end speed and rpms should stay the same. Your bottom engagement will be a couple hundred higher.

+EPIperformance Thanks for the response.

+EPIperformance So if I install this kit would it also increase acceleration?

+Kaden Murphy You will get better low end and midrange power and acceleration with the kit along with the faster backshift and throttle response so when ever you are on and off the gas it will react quicker and give you better performance.

Lol you are correct. That belt gets used on several different machines with clutches on both sides of the machine. The EPI belt is designed so when you start with it new you can run either direction, but once it has been used you want to use it the same way it came off. I think that is the only belt that has the different arrow vs letters. That was a good catch!

If your secondary spring is getting weak you will see and feel lower rpms which can also lead to lower top speed, slower back shift and throttle response and more belt slippage.

if there are no holes you will have to carefully force the belt down into the clutch. You might have to push down hard on the belt and rotate the clutch to get it to start moving down into the clutch.

The mudder kit will sometimes lower the top speed around 5 mph but the other kits should stay the same

Ok thanks!

Yes we do! If you watch the 700 Viking video is it pretty much the same process once you get to the clutches. I hope that helps. We are working on adding more videos as we speak.

We haven't worked on the model so cant tell you for sure. But I would check your shifter linkage and make sure the idle isn't to high where it might be trying to engage the clutches.

Its is a piece tool from Suzuki. i think one of these part numbers has been superceded but here are the number I have. Clutch shoe remover part number 9920-33540 and the sliding shaft part number 09930-30104. These are OEM Suzuki tools.

@@EPIperformance I found it on there but for both of them together it’s gonna be over 300$. It wouldn’t be that big of a deal if it was something I may use again but for something I’m gonna use once and forget about owning it seems pointless. Would I be able to run the sport utility clutch kit with just the secondary spring and the primary rollers without doing the springs in the wet clutch?

@@xaviermiracle2323 Yes you can run it without using our wet clutch springs. It will still perform better then stock, just not as good as it possibly can. The wet clutch mainly effect the engagement and low end response. They dont change top rpms or sppeed so you can use the stock ones.

@@EPIperformance alright I appreciate the help man. I’ll hang on to the springs and may do it in the future. Thank youns again

@@xaviermiracle2323 sounds good. Thank you!

That could be many different things. If your looking at mainly clutching it could be a worn belt (worn skinny and/or stretched to long) weak springs, dirty or worn clutches. Or a combination of all of these things. Many other things will effect top speed such as dirty air filter, dirty carb, brakes hanging up some, bad bearing or u joint in the driveline.

@@EPIperformance yes my weights have some mean wear to them, I just ordered a clutch kit, I had tried replacing the belt already and it helped none

@@3thirty3.90s Thats good and thank you. That should get your clutching back to where it should be. Hopefully that will take care of it and you'll be good to go.

You would want to use the Mudder Kit part number WE437653. It will change the wet clutch springs, roller weights, and the secondary spring. It wil give you a lot more low end and midrange power and torque, faster backshift and throttle response and grip the belt better then stock for you.

Yamaha need grease in them. Arctic Cat and Suzuki do not use grease. Our Grizzly video crashed and doesn't work any more but we have a video on the Viking which uses the same style clutches as the Yamaha atvs and is a good video.

Thank you!

I haven't ran into that issue before. I know sometimes you have to spin the shaft a little as your installing the cover so it will go over the wet clutch a little easier. The only other thing I could think off is you hae the wrong bearing if you replaced that or maybe the wet clutch is on backwards??

@@EPIperformance I didn’t pull the wet clutch off and I might have damaged the bearing or something because it won’t go on the right way but it will go on backwards. I guess I’ll order a new bearing and see if that helps it

+Greg Large For 27" tires most would use the yellow spring for all around use. If all you are doing is mudding or rock crawling and not worried about top end speed then you could use the green spring. But usually the yellow works for most. The green is stiffer so it locks the clutches into low gear longer and will take away some of your top end speed.

+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips You can use an impact to remoce the primary clutch, secondary clutch and wet clutch bolts/nuts. Other then that everything can be done with hand tools. Depending on the year and model of your machine you might need a special tool to get the wet clutch off the machine. Hope that helps.

EPIperformance it did help a lot, I just got both out its a 27 MM socket, but my concern was to put it back again will hand tolls be enough? I think you said yes

+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips A lot of people just use an impact to tighten. its not the recommended way but is what happens a lot. If your doing it by hand you have to be able to hold the clutches from rotating so they get torqued properly.

EPIperformance thanks I will do so

+Martial Arts Tutorials & Fight tips hey thanks for the tips, I just install it, one last question I have to be able to read the letters on the drive belt? meaning the letters most be easy to read??

For best overall performance we recommend every 1000 miles. Depending on how and where you drive will change the times some of when you should change. IF you are doing easy riding you should be able to go longer, if you are all out mud riding or hauling and pulling things all the time you will want to sooner. In a lot of situations you can ride 3000-5000 miles on a belt but what happens is as a belt wears it will stretch out longer and get skinnier. This hurts your performance and durability. Usually after 1000 you can see and feel a difference when changing belts. Hope that helps.

Hello, yes we have a Economy Clutch kit for your machine. It your machine doesn't have a belt then it would be part number WE490425. If your machine is belt drive then it would be part number WE490400. These kits are designed to give you more low end power and faster throttle response and backshift. You can check them out on our website www.epiperformance.com or call the tech dept at 218-829-6036 for more information.

KQ700

No you don't have to change the wet clutch springs to run that set up. You would get better low end power and faster response if you did change the wet clutch springs but its not required.

The noise could be normal or a sign that your roller housing or clutch sliders are getting worn. Typically though you would hear the noise when you are off the gas and it goes away when you are on the gas. I would suggest at least pulling the cover off and inspect and clean the clutches. The clutch will help your all around performance. No way to tell if it will fix the noise issue though without knowing for sure what the issue is.

Previous owner took it apart and replaced the bearings and still no change. On the gas it makes noise and when you left off it goes completely quiet. Thanks for the reply.

Some times they can be a pain. There are two different ways to install them. One is to leave the clutch shoes on the braket that holds them together and pull the one end of the spring on using a spring tool or needle nose plies. On bpth ways of doing it I would hook one end of each spring into the clutch shoe first and then try to pull the sring into the hole. Sometimes if you cant get them flip the spring ends around and try it. Also a lot of times you can get the end of the spring just barely started into the hole and then tap it down into the rest of the way. The seconda way to install them is to take all the clutch shoes off the bracket and carefully hook all the spring up, usally you can get all of them or at least all but one and then lift them up together and slide them onto the pins on the bracket. I think if you watch our Yamaha video it will show us doing it that way I think. Hope that helps.

You can try putting a thin fim of blue Loctite around the metal roller and then install the housing. Let the Loctite cure before driving it.

EPIperformance I actually contacted the store today and they are exchanging them for the right ones there was almost 8 of an inch of a gap around the ones they sent me

Holy cow that's a big gap. I thought maybe they were fitting just a little loose. Hopefully they can get you the correct ones. If they cant let us know.

EPIperformance I ordered them directly from the EPI

Yes they do. It isn't required to separate them to install our clutch kit so we didn't show it.

@@EPIperformanceThanks. I was going to sand or scotch bright my sheaves while I had the spring out.

We have a lot of different kits available. we would need your model and year of machine, tire size and elevation your riding at and type of riding your doing. You can see a full list on our website www.epiperformance.com

Its meant to be a dry clutch so no grease is needed. There is a very small amount on the inside shaft of the secondary but if you don't wipe it out of the shaft you should be good. You have to be careful because any lube will get spun around and end up on the clutch face and on the belt which will cause a slippage issue.

We would need to know what year, model and size your machine is. But if your not worried about top end and want lots of bottom end you could go with the Mudder kit for your machine. You can find all our kits and products as www.epiperformance.com

EPIperformance its a suzuki kingquad 750 2008.

Use Mudder kit part number WE436353. It will have the secondary spring, roller weights and the wet clutch springs to give you the most low end power you can get.

Suzuki and Arctic Cat use the same style clutches so the process is the same. Suzuki also made a lot of the Arctic Cat snow and atv engines until just the last couple years.

EPIperformance I can't get the wet clutch off

EPIperformance have any ideas

On the 400 Eiger we have the economy clutch kit which changes the wet clutch springs and the secondary spring. It will use your stock weights. It will help will all around performance with better low end, faster backshift and throttle response and grip the belt better for you. Part number is WE493040 price is $79.95

Awsome ok thanks i will order it later thank for all ur help and will al be able to pop a wheelie with it and wat will the backshift do or help my eiger

Will this help too if i wanted to put bigger tires and wats the biggest u recommend me

Rolis navarrete That kit will help with all size of tires. It wont make it a wheelie monster but it will give you more power

Ok thanks epi

Arctic Cat and Suzuki have a specific tool to use. What most people end up doing on these models is taking a marker and mark a line on the nut and the clutch before you take the nut off. Then when you go to tighten it you can use a punch and hammer and tighten or if you can find a spanner wrench to tighten it up and line up the lines. If your marks line up you should be pretty close to the factory torques specs. Hope that helps.

ok thank you. i already took it off and replaced the spring so i didnt mark the clutch. just gonna try and get it close

Yeah you should be fine as lons as you get it somewhat tight. I haven't ever seen one come loose. You also put a little blue Loctite on the nut if your worried about coming loose.

is the torque spec they recommend so it doesn't come loose or does it have to do with how tight the spring is? i was worried that it had to do with how tight the spring was and that it would affect the performance

Just so the nut wont come loose. It wont effect spring tension at all.

Top speed should stay the same as what you have now, it wil vary within a couple mph unless you run the wrong kit for the wrong tire size. Mudder kits might reduce top speed between 5-7 mph, but will depend on your tire size and weight.

Yes we do. You can find it at www.epiperformance.com or call us at 218-829-6036

Most normal kits with the wet clutch springs will engage 300-500 rpms higher then stock. The Competition Stall springs are a little stiffer and will raise the engagement 700-1000 rpms over stock engagement.

Hi Joe, We have several different kits for that machine depending on what size tires you are running, what type of riding your doing and what elevation you are riding at. If you can get us that info we can get the right kit for you. You can also call our tech line at 218-829-6036. Thanks.

@@EPIperformance awesome thank you yes I'm running 29.5 x 9.5x 14s I ride on trails and also play in the mud a lil bit too I'm in North Dakota.

@@joecocherdz Your not to far from us, we are in Minnesota. You would want to use the Mudder Kit part number WE436410 which will give you a lot more low end and midrange power and torque, faster backshift and throttle response and will grip the belt better then stock.

@@EPIperformance awesome I'll be calling in a bit anything else you recommend? It's still stock minus the wheels I want to be able to just RIP. Thank you so much!

The CCT510 clutch compression tool will help you change the secondary spring in the clutch a lot easier. Other then that plan to replace your oil and sometimes your wet clutch gasket (available through an Arctic Cat dealer) and you should be good to go.

Changing the wet clutch springs and roller weights are the same basic process, the secondary spring is a little different. You don't need to wind up the Yamaha spring. We have a video on the Yamaha Viking which would show you how work on the Yamaha clutches. You can find it on our website at www.epiperformance.com and click onto vidoes or check out our youtube page. Thanks

You can install the different parts individually but you wont get the same performance gains. The clutches have to work together, as one opens the other closes. If you change one clutch it might help you in some areas and hurt your performance in others. On most set ups you are better off changing everything together.

Depending on the model, some wet clutches require a puller to be removed.

EPIperformance what kind of puller do I need

EPIperformance cause I have an 07 articat 700 efi 4by4

If you go to the 20:45 in the video is shows the puller.

EPIperformance what's the tool called I didn't really catch it and didn't understand it