This guy is a fucking IDIOT!!!!!!! Paid for my parts and the asshole will not deliver. FUCKING CROOK!!!!!!!!!!!!! Will not answer calls, PIECE OF SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $2,100 and the asshole will not deliver my parts or answer the phone. What the fuck asshole fucking crook?
Some of them are really tight and stuck. Most people use a big air impact. If that doesnt break them loos you might have to use a litle heat on them, but have to be careful not to damage anything.
The primary clutch is tapered but can only go on so far, so as long as you torqued it properly is shouldn't change. On some models there are washers either behind the secondary clutch and some behind the bolt the holds the clutch on, if any of these are missing if could change your alignment. If your clutch and belts are turning at idle also double check your bearing in the center of the primary clutch.
Ok, dummy me, i had the secondary clutch on backards, somebody must have spent many sleepless nights, figuring out where to put the worlds hardest starter, ive replaced many in my life, but this is the worst
To work on the clutches is the same process but the clutch kits are a little different between the two. so if you have a 650 you would want to order the kit specifically made for the 650.
The EPI clutch kits will upgrade your clutches and give you more low end and midrange power, faster backshift and throttle response and will grip the belt better then stock. If your losing power you should inspect your clutches for wear or damage. It could also be your engine getting weak.
hey friend I have a problem with my 2016 can-am 1000 let's see if you can help me. The shift lever became hard, then one of the clutch springs broke! I changed the part myself but now it doesn't want to apply the speeds. stays in one speed
Chances are you have an issue with your shifter linkage or an actual transmission. Its not very common for a primary spring to break so it did you make have a worn our primary clutch. If its the secondary spring usually the only way they have issues is if your bolt comes loose and the clutch starts to come off. If you shut the machine off and it shift normal then its probably the clutches. If it still shifts hard or wont change gears then its your linkage or the tranny.
In most cases that means your belt is stretch to long or its the wrong belt for the machine. I would inspect and replace the belt. If it is a new belt make sure it is the correct part number. If all that is good then your clutches are shifting out to far or out of alignment.
Hello! I have to rebuild my Polaris Switchback Aventure 2012 600 clutch, I bought the complete Epi kit and I'm going to have the spider removed at my dealership. I forgot to make a mark on the top and bottom plate, and the mechanic didn't do it either. I just saw this in the manual shop. Do you know how I can know if the two plates will be aligned in the right place when I put it all back together? There is no X on the bottom shelf. THANKS !
There should be an "X" on the underside of the clutch inbetween the ribs. If not then all you can do is line up the "X" on the cover plate and on the spider and put it together. If there is no "X" on the spider then it is the part of the spider that has any part number engraved on it would be the X spot. Be sure to use red loctite when put it all together.
Maybe. If your clutch is staying engaged and hard to shift because of weak springs then it would fix it. I would inspect and clean your clutches really good. If the clutch is worn out or all the bushings are sloppy loose then the kit wont fix it. If clutch is in good shape and clean and still having issues it might be your shifter cable/linkage is not set correctly. Once your clutches are physically in proper working order the clutch kit will give you added performance all around.
I purchased your EPI Kit for a Can Am Renegade 800, the problem is that some of your pins (which pass inside the masses) go hard through the holes in the primary clutch. Why?
@@EPIperformance Thank you, I apologize but I don't speak English. By "pins" (pivot) I mean where the mass is inserted inside.... and in front of the screw (I don't know what it's called) goes the bolt. Found now I mean the Screw M5
I have question can that primary clutch mess up rear break 2013 4010 mule I replaced everything and it's still messing up any idea if it still has something to do with the clutch
I'm new to the world of CVT transmissions and this was EXACTLY what I needed to wrap my head around what's going on inside the CVT cover of an ATV/UTV/snowmobile. Well explained, concise video.
Best thing to do is call our tech line at EPI, 218-829-6036 and we can figure it out for you. I will depend on your riding and tire size of what combination to use.
If you order a clutch kit it will have the weights and springs in the kit. The kit instructions will tell you which spring to install where. If you have questions or want help getting the correct kit part number you can call EPI tech line 218-829-6036
Should there be any play in the little pins/ bolts that hold the weights in place. There Is 3 of them I have 2 that don't move at all but the 3rd one I can move the pin back and forth with my finger feel like it makes a rattle noise when driving
The weight pins will vary by model and clutch. Usually if you can slide them back and forth that is fine. Typically you won't hear the weight pin bolts make noise while driving. What will make noise is if the any of the clutch or weight bushings are worn, the weight bushings are worn and/or the weight pin bolt is worn where the weight pivots on the bolt. In most cases you will hear a rattle while at idle but if the clutch is engaged there is normally enough load on it the rattling stops. So if your hearing rattle I would take the extra time and closely inspect the entire clutch.
@@EPIperformance We are actually working on a Ryker and trying to find similar unit that we can test some springs. I ordered a pink spring and it seems so much larger than the stock one felt it wasn't right. It is for a maverick X3, I wanted to compare a stock size if maybe it is supposed to be that big. Any help would be appreciated, I know alot of people are not modifying the Ryker and tough to get any assistance.
Depends on what tool you dont have. If you dont have the clutch puller it will be much harder because you wont be able to remove the primary. Still can be done but takes a lot more time and patience. If you have have the compression tool you will need to make some time of tool or way to compress the spring enough to be able to remove and install the snap ring on the secondary clutch. @@adrew1963
How Do you get an impact in there to remove the clutch nut? What size is it? And is it lefty loosy? Looks like I blew my clutch up on my 2013 prowler hdx. Is there a good upgrade
Its been a while but the sockets to remove clutches should be 32mm and 1 7/16". They should be right hand threads on the outer clutches. If your getting into the wet clutch that one is left hand threads. We dont have a replacement clutch for your machine but we do sell a clutch kit that would make the stock clutches perform much better.
