Hey man ! Thanks for the video! I’ve been stuck with the same consistent tear , tried everything ,yoke, spine, rest, timing, grip, I just keep getting the same tear . I knew from other videos this was the only thing left to try … your video gave me the confidence to try. I’m getting great groups with the bow as it is but I’m trying to take it a step further and get my broad heads to group with fieldpoints, at the moment they are just to the right. I’ll be testing results tomorrow and keep adjusting if I need to , took me half an hour to swap the shims. And thanks to the comments I managed to do it without removing the strings cause my timing is set pretty good. So thanks again for taking the time to help others with your video .
Awesome Video brother! Very informative. I have a PSE 3BXL with the same issue, and I'm going to invest in a press and do this myself thanks to your help. You made it look pretty simple, and gave me some confidence. Thanks!
Great job and I appreciate the fact that you acknowledge you're not a professional. I shoot a Hoyt and it has the shims that require a press in order to remove the axle, however, it pretty simple with the right equipment. Very good video quality.
Awsome video. Thank you. My rest sits all the way too the left. WS going to take it too my bow shop so he could do it for me but I found your video and going to try and do it myself.
This is the way I was taught by my peers. If you are able to get the axles out in the press then, by all means, save some time! 💪🏽 Thanks for the comment!
I have similar tear left on my PSE Evolve 35 that I bought used. Overall the bow is in good condition, but the bottom cam leans left (as in top of it leans left) while the top cam is pretty much straight. I'm about to shim the bottom one and test if I can get both straight and see how it goes.
Hi, nice video. I own a 2018 pse expedite and I would like to start tuning my own bow. It will be nice if you could explain why moving the cam to left when seeing a left tear on paper and at the end of the video yo said you had to move your rest because you could still see a little bit of a left tear on paper but you did not say which direction you had to move the rest to and why. Thank you.
I do all of my paper tuning from 5 yards. The fix for a tail left tear is either move the string to the left or the rest to the right. It would be the exact opposite for a tail right tear or a left handed shooter. I use paper tuning as a close starting point. Then I do a walk back tune to fine tune my center shot. Hope this helps!
I shot the bow through paper at about 5 yards. A tear in paper let me know the arrow wasn’t coming out of the bow true. This is when I made the decision to shim cams. Thanks for watching! 🫡
Typically, you will just move around what you have. If you are running the newer EZ .220 system you may have to purchase a shim kit with the tool and additional shims. The old washer style you will just swap shims from one side to the other as needed. 🫡
@@FourFletchArchery Thanks for the info. Im on the fence of purchasing a gen 1 levitate and cant really find info on shimming. Id like to work on it myself. I know the gen 2 would be easier but it’s easier to find a gen 1.
If you are getting a tail left or tail right tear through paper that would be your first indication. If it’s more than a 1/4” out I would shim. Hope this helps!
Nice job. I need this video. I’ve never really had to shim my bows, but it’s always a possibility. How can you really keep from loosing this e-clips? 😂
Some presses don't press the 4 individual limbs exactly the same and the axle alignment can be off just a tough making it hard to get the axles holes to line up. This can make it hard to swap out the shims and reinstall the axles without difficulties. I have my own press, a bow-a-constrictor and have done shimming with the bow in the press. Sometimes it can be difficult and I have also done it like he did in the video.
Somebody can show you how to remove E clips, without them taking flight. Install wasn't bad but there's an easier method. Basically a small screwdriver to remove, needle nose to install. Videos available on RU-vid demoing this.
So sorry for the slow response. Not sure how I missed your comment. For a right handed shooter you move the rest towards the riser (right) or the string left (shimming cam) to clean up a tail left tear. I would have moved my rest very slightly to the right to clean up! Thanks for watching!
If you have cam “lean” you would likely correct that through the floating yoke system if you have one of the newer PSEs with the PBTS system. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps! 🤘🏽
Now, I have seen video after video talking about shimming cams to tune a broadhead. I, in my 62 years have never had to do that. Now I have not shot the full 62 years of course, but I was an indoor 300 competitive shooter. Also a life long bow Hunter. Just my opinion, but can shimming should not be a thing. There is another issue. Find it and fix that. If it’s your grip, get it right. Also, too many bows without a grip at all, when back in my day they all came with three. You picked the one that for your hand the best and installed that one. We need to get back to interchangeable grips on the bows again. Everyone’s hands are different. So just my input, stop messing with the factory set I’m and find why your broadhead a won’t tune. Maybe just poor broadheads also.
