In this video, I try out a tuning method for repairing vertical paper tears. This was shared with me by my good friend Chris Simmons who has extensive archery, bow building, bow tuning, and string building experience.
Great job Josh! Like you said, there are several ways to clean up that low tear. You can certainly put the bow out of time to fix it, but I personally don't like the feel of a bow whose stops don't hit at the same time. You can also move the rest down like you mention, but in this case it was too low for your liking. Adding nocks to the string is 100% repeatable and reliable, and it leaves your measurable baseline in place. Again, excellent job! CS
I wish more manufactures would be honest about vertical issues. I’ve seen one brand in particular that throws a nock low 6-7/10x. I’ve asked and asked and always told they’ve never heard of that. I, too, will not advance the cam, drop the rest, or raise the height past the berger. Awesome video, that tells you something to try outside of the industry standard. Great work!
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing! When dealing with this, I just switched the limb positions around to have the stiffer limbs on the top. Found more success that way
this video is exactly, what i'm looking for. i was angry about my nock, which had to be outside the square to have a good paper test. thank you very much.
Thank you Josh for the like and love you gave my comment. My thought on this is I do as you do, I check and set my bow up and make sure all is tuned, timing, synchronization of my cams. Then, I check my string to see how my limbs are out of alignment by using my arrow along the cam and check how my string and arrows align. They should be parallel to one another. If they aren’t, then I yoke tune my bow. Meaning, I twist my yoke to the side that needs a twist or two. I do this to the top cam. Then, I check it again. If it’s ok, I’ll shoot through paper. Depending on my tear, if it’s just a small tear that’s not perfect, then I’ll twist my nock and shoot through paper again. I do this until I get a bullet hole. Let me add, does this always work for all bows and arrow combos I shoot? Not at all. I can’t get my darn GT 9.3 to paper tune to save my life. However, that same bow and arrow combo, I shot an unofficial championship score on a state marked 3D course of 198/200. Farthest target was 53yrds and I killed that X ring. Only counting 10a bc it was an NFAA 3D tournament. But I love your process and by slowing down that bottom cam, it worked great. My WAF bow, I shoot all my arrows through paper and go through the same process again by turning nocks from vane to vane until I get a good paper tear. Those are my .166 CX Nanos with 120gr up front on a 27.75” shaft. Thank you again for having a great RU-vid channel and keep on making good videos, brother!!
Whaaaaat??? 🤯🤯🤯 It’s amazing how many ways there are to get a bow to tune. This is a neat method, might try it on my MXR. In slow mo, it’s obvious the bottom cam is accelerating faster than the top cam, but everything is in time, so I didn’t know there was actually a way to solve this problem. I just chalked it up to being a “budget” bow, and that’s just the way it is. But this could solve that problem.
@@FourFletchArchery tiller tuning helps with variance in limb deflection, it’s kinda A forgotten practice on compound bows. It is however affective. Thanks for your channel I love the passing of knowledge to fellow archers.
This is super interesting, but it really seems like an extreme fix for something that should work better from the factory. I only say that because I was struggling with a low tear using a PSE today and wanted to scream, and seeing you put TEN nocks on the bottom of the string makes me shake my head at the trouble you've had to go through. I appreciate this video, though. Thanks.
Hear guys adding silencer or string monkeys too. Good video! The main question is… why are so many PSE bows doing this? I had one do this and have read of others with the same exact issue?
I had 100 up front and had that same tear until I added 120 up front and it’s not shooting a bullet hole.only lost 7fps and you adding those brass nocks I’m sure you would loose more.
Have you tried with a softer arrow spine? Jonny Dudley stated, in one of his tuning videos, that low tear can be the result of an arrow with spine too stiff.
In the case of some of the target arrows that are only offered in 1 spine; you have the ability to lengthen or shorten the arrow or change point weights. I’m some scenarios a change in arrow spine might be the way to go, or you can increase or decrease poundage. Lots of ways to skin the cat in archery. This is just showing an unusual method that can work. I appreciate you watching and appreciate the comment! 💪🏽
Not to high jack this question, but I’ve tried 3 different spines, different lengths and points weight and although it may help, it didn’t eliminate my nock low.
I don't get it. In some videos they say if you have a nock right tear move the rest to the left. And if you have a nock left tear move the rest to the right. To me that doesn't make sense because if an arrow is hitting nock right that means your field tip of your arrow is pointing towards the left as it's flying. Wouldn't it make better sense to move the rest towards the right if you have a nock right tear so it steers the arrow towards the right so it flies straight?
It can be confusing mentally but I assure you the way you described it is accurate! Tail left /rest right. Tail right/ rest left. All for Right handed shooters obviously. Keep in mind the correlation between the rest position and the string and how the two will affect the porpoising of the arrow out of the bow. Thanks for the comment and for watching! 👊🏽
@@FourFletchArchery I had a really hard time comprehending this. So I guess What I had to comprehend in my own mind and what you're saying is in other words that a "right tear does not look like this (\) at brace or at full draw.... it looks like this (/) initially, and then the arrow ends up like this (\) coming off the string as it compensates for the centershot misalignment. That is why you move your rest left to adjust and find that centershot alignment that ends up giving you this (|). Like I said, may not be worded correctly- So is this basically how the physics are like with paper tuning?
I appreciate the comment. The point of this video was to show “another” solution for fixing a vertical tear. Certainly not the only method or option to do so. Thanks so much for watching and I appreciate your input! 👊🏽
@@ShaneBolerHunting Always a cause and effect! Could lose speed or in the right circumstances possibly gain. More than likely it will cost you a few fps though! Thanks for watching!
This is just showing another method that would keep the arrow level. If you wanted to run your arrow downhill you do have that option as well. Appreciate the comment.
You can certainly do that if you don’t mind your arrow running downhill…you can also play with limb deflections as well. There are several different approaches that can be taken. Thanks for the comment. 🫡
