I appreciate what you do here! The other day I repaired the arm of a chair, and any time I was ready to take a shortcut, I heard your voice saying "This is an example of someone who didn't know what they were doing." Thanks for insisting that there's a right way to do things!
Wow, thank you for such a complement! I appreciate that. I love to hear you're learning from our videos and it energizes me to keep making more. Thanks Mark! Scott
In a similar situation, I put plastic wrap over an undamaged area of molding and then pushed filler over the top to make a molding tool. Then when I put putty over the missing area, I was able to use the mold to push into the new putty and save myself a lot of sanding and shaping. I suppose one could also take a disposable plastic putty knife and contour the edge to match the molding profile. Then use it to shape the still softer putty. Pretty much anything done before epoxy putty gets hard is indeed the easier way to go!
I’ve used J-B Weld Tan KwikWood Wood Repair Epoxy Putty a few times to fix dings in solid body guitars. It works well and can be sanded and painted for a close match.
Relaxed but steady advice. This is very practical stuff and useful in our “throw away” culture. I also greatly enjoy Thomas Johnson Antique Restoration. I have some antiques I’d like to pass on in better shape than I found them.
Yes, Tom does some great work. Here's a video of us talking about the types of wood glue used in furniture repair work ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qK0IR8WT_jE.html
I found your channel yesterday after googling wood fillers for stripped screw holes in wood furniture. Very informative and a new sub for you. I'll be watching often. Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise with us! There is so little quality information out there on how to repair furniture, especially when furniture has some actual craftsmanship to it and isn’t just slabs of wood a la the ikea or modern style. I never had the opportunities to learn even the most basic woodworking / shop skills, but I’m an avid believer in taking care of the things we have instead of going out and buying cheap replacements! None of my family or close friends is handy or knowledgeable about stuff like this (my husband is probably the least handy out of all of them 😅) but I’m determined to learn! It can be difficult as a young female trying to get into this kind of thing, so I really appreciate you sharing what you know!
Thanks for sharing that Sarah. Laurie and I have thought about starting an online furniture repair school as a subscription service. Still in the thinking process, but if you have some thoughts to share, we'd love to hear them. Scott
Thanks again for a high quality instructional video. Using ideas from your videos I am in the process of returning some dining table chairs to good working order. Basically it has involved taking them apart to remove screws/nails and hot glue from a previous owner. Dealing w broken joints and dowels has taken the longest. I purchased new clamps to dismantle the chairs. On their accompanying table, I strengthened legs and the extension mechanism. I have to create some leaves which have been lost. Also plan, for the first time, to use burn in sticks for some serious gouges on the table top. I've subscribed and while I do not have the workshop/tools, I take things nice and steady and try to do the best job I can. Thanks again!
Another Great tutorial Scott. I've done my part, (Partly) sent you're URL to my son who is also interested in woodworking restorations etc. Good luck with your goal . Still looking forward to another dual video with Tom Johnson. thanks for sharing. ECF
Thank you for another great lesson. I've used this material and discovered that although it doesn't take stain after it is cured, one can darken the color by adding a few drops of stain while mixing the two components together. I've darkened it quite a bit doing that and it didn't seem to affect the cure time or strength of the epoxy after curing. I am sure there is a limit to how much you can add but it doesn't take much to really darken it. Thanks again and see you in the next one. Cheers!
Great job Scott you’ve given me the confidence to do repairs at levels I didn’t dream of doing. Thanks a lot. P.S. the primer you used isn’t shellac. But anyway thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world. God bless
Oh, you're right, it's the BIN red label that's shellac based. Thanks for the correction. Scott. www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser-products/shellac-base-primer/b-i-n-shellac-base-primer?ls=01008&lc=Primer%20-%20White
Scott. As always a very informative video. Thank you for getting the information out. There are a number of epoxy putties the you can shape with wet fingers. PC 7 is one I have used. The problem is it is almost black. YOu wet your fingers and shape the putty like you would clay. THere is also a product called Quick Wood that comes in different colors and according to the mfg. it also is shapeable with wet fingers. I am going to try that with my next repair. The mfg. says it is no toxic. It does save a lot of time shaping and sanding
I agree, if you can shape something before it cures, it saves time. I would not use bare hands though as epoxy is toxic. I suggest reading the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) to understand how to safely use the product. Cheers. Scott
Is it ok to mention another channel? It appears water on the tool is helpful in molding the simi hard putty. Thomas Johnson does a lot with epoxy putty. I love your channel especially how you approach solving problems. The "how do I deal with this?" question comes up often.
Hi Philip. Yes, it's ok to mention Tom. We did a video together if you haven't seen it... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qK0IR8WT_jE.html He does great work and I enjoy watching his videos too. Cheers. Scott 🇨🇦
Good question Les. I've used Bondo for interior doors. I find the epoxy putty easier to work with for fine work. It's a smooth consistency whereas I find Bondo doesn't smooth out as well. That's my experience but I haven't done a side-by-side test of the two. I hope that answers your question. Scott
To be frank you could probably have "glued" it back together with the epoxy putty too. You say it's not a glue, but it very much acts like a glue. Like, I've bonded flat pieces of glass together with epoxy putty and it held so well that the glass broke before the joint broke, so it would hold on to the ragged surface of a broken piece of wood just fine. Not saying you should though, as it creates a much thicker joint compared to PVA or epoxy glue, which of course can cause other issues for fit and finish.
Hey Scott, I'm asking on here because I'm not sure if you have any other place for questions. Love the videos just have a video request in the event someone brings something to you that would work. If you get a chance can you do a video on removing century old veneer. I've been asked to repair a chest from the early 1900s that appears to have been originally covered in veneer. A large portion of it has since flaked or broken off. I've been using a heat gun and a scraper to get it off but was wondering if the professionals had a better method. Thanks for everything you folks are doing. There's no way I'd have enough confidence or knowledge about doing this stuff if not for your videos.
Hi Foster. For questions about antique veneer, I'll refer you to Thomas Johnson Antique Restoration RU-vid channel. Tom specializes in antiques and I've seen some veneer work on some projects he shares. I hope that helps. Scott
That's an interesting thought. My gut tells me that it would be an experiment that is unlikely to work. The chemicals in the epoxy adhesive are likely different than in the epoxy putty and I don't know what that would do. If you have a need to create a strong bond where there's a void, the best practice is to cut out that section and replace it with wood. That's a proven method to repair something like that. I hope that helps. Scott
I bought this to fix a piece of decorative railing on my scrolled french canopy bed and now that I watch the video all to then end realize we need a professional respirator with a special pad even?! Quess Ill have to get one just to fix a little 1 inch piece?
Some hide glue requires warming, but not all. I've been using Titebond hide glue recently, and it works well at room temperature. It needs warming if you're working in a cold workshop. Hope that helps. Scott
