Thank you for letting me know! LCD projectors are still a bit of a hurdle for me. I'm going to try to do more with them. I hope Epson and friends release more information and parts for the rest of us. I am really happy to hear it was useful for you. Thank you again.
Thanks, Frank. I have an 8350 that was giving me TEMP light problems. Your vid was invaluable showing opening and components plus trouble shooting tips. After poking around in mine, I found no obvious problems, fans all turned. BUT it now works! No idea why, probably bad solder joint, but I guess I'll leave it for now. One problem with your vid was that I couldn't clearly see where you were probing with your meter for those readings - and a bit of explanation on what I should get. If it fails again. I assume I'd have to be quick to read before it shuts down.
Glad it's working! It probably is the fan next to the lamp. Super common. As far as measurement points I go over checking fans in another video. Probably why I didn't go in depth here. Enjoy the projector!
Awesome model Frank. I really like the way these EPSONS are built. By pure luck, I own 3 of these beasts now. Opened the first to clean after 500 hours there was no dust inside! Filters do excellent job. Thanks for sharing Frank and always remember......... WE DISSASEMBLE THEM KEYBOARDZZZ!!!!!!!
In cases of a partially worn fans to make life easy I fit a piece of aluminium heatsink onto the back of the lamp, using oven door hi temperature glue and that helps the cooling fan with faster dissipation of the heat. It works 9 out of 10 times though not always. Try it if it doesn't work simply replace the fan. Another detailed instructional video. Great stuff. Generally I hate working on epson projectors especially ultra short throw ones. They are the worst. Epson don't offer service manuals and often no spares available.
Thank you Frank for such a great detailed and thorough video and your explanation of every step! I followed it with my newly acquired problematic Epson 8350 (pristine condition with barely any dust or sign of use) - it would work normally for 5-50 minutes and suddenly with no warning of overheating on display, it would shut down the bulb and start blinking temp light, blasting all 3 fans on high. I am trying to figure out the reason for it - all fans work flawlessly (tested separately), I have 6 different bulbs to try, including good OEM, so its not a bulb issue, it's not an IRIS (its very smoothly opens and closes) or anything in the optic section. So far I was thinking of the thermal protector UCHIYA UP62 (whte small rectangular), lodged in black plastic right next to the bulb. I measured the resistance of the disconnected part and it was over 40kOhms, so I swapped it with the only availble similar part UCHIYA JP62 from another projector (a successor that looks identical, but has double the amperage), which reads 0 ohms at room temp. Now with JP62 it only strikes cheap bulbs and only for a minute, before shutting down with the temp light blinking, Epson bulbs can't start with this thermoregulator, giving bulb light blinking. Weirdely, now I'm testing that original UP62 at room temp and it also reads 0, what to think of it?... If you have any idea or have had any experience working with thermo sensors in Epson, please help me with the advice? UPDATE: shorted the thermal resistor. Now back to where I was at the beginning - works for 1-50 minutes till shutting off with temp light blinking, or shutting off right after EPSON logo. If anyone has any clue? How can test those 4 -wires TH sensors (there are two of them here)? Also, Frank or anyone, do you guys have an extra temp sensor, same type as the one that was stuck inside the power block in the video, I would gladly purchase one or two, as I think its the only place left to look.
I'd check fans. Specifically the lamp blower fan. Locked or slow fans will give temp errors as well. If it runs for a period of time, the fans would be my troubleshooting direction. That would also explain why the thermal breaker failed. They are supposed to self-reset and if it was not resetting, it had been heated extensively for a long time.
@@FixitFrank Thank you for this insight! Do you think I should run that fan from 12v and connected tester for like an hour or two and see if it stalls or slows down? I'll try that, have nothing to loose really. I also found this video of a similar Epson PJ - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0DlioOaKCoY.html and at 20:12 the guy shows those 4 wire temp sensors up close. Testing is super easy - leads 1 and 2 are shorted and so should be read as such, leads 3 and 4 connect to thermal resistor that at room temp reads 9.3 kOhm. I even found one of those sold used on ebay for $18 :) Going to dissassemble everything again (3rd time the charm!) and report what came out of it, thanks again for this thread and your responses, Frank!
You were right about the fan thing, Frank! But it wasnt the lamp fan, it turned out to be the fourth, the biggest one, the one that sucks the air through the filter and sits at the bottom of the PJ. It seems that it is needed for cooling the prism and the LCD screens, hence the filter. Had to take the whole light engine to get to it. It's model number is SF84M12-07A. It fails to start or barely moves, when fed 12V directly. It read (between red and black wires) about 8kOhm at first, now its just open circuit, so its totally dead.. How did it die wonder? Seems like a professionally built brushless fan, that suppose to last almost a human span life.. Question to you @FixitFrank, if you have those laying around not being used, how much would you want to send me one? I have an option on ebay but rather try to get it from you! Thank you again for your insight - at the end it did turn out to be a fan!
Ill look around. I know the fan you mean. I'm a kind of surprised it was that one but more happy that you found it. I see these fail quite often(fans in general). I am not sure why. I figure they are built in such quantities that its inevitable to have some go bad. Let me look around my office and see what I can dig up.
Your video is the only one I can find that shows anywhere close to what I need. I have an 8350 that has a lot of dust in the light path and although your video is awesome, it scares the hell out of me to pull it apart now. Also my iris has been getting noisier as time goes on too.
I rarely work on Epson partly due to how much anxiety I get when I have to unhook and move the LCD cables. The best advice I can give is don't use air if you can help it. Use little dry brushes. Photo brushes ideally or small paint brushes. Loosen up the dust and then use a little bit of air to blow it away. Using a vacuum would be even better if its small. The biggest hazards are bumping or moving anything adjustable and cracking an LCD flex cable. Don't take out each LCD panel and clean it. Do it all in place. It's really time consuming but for your own projector its time well spent. As long as you don't have any color blotches in the center, and the problem is only on the side, you might be Okay. Keep in mind the 8350 is pretty old and will be very brittle. Be careful with any glass surfaces. The coatings can flake off if you are too aggressive. I'd leave the center of the optics alone, the part with the colored mirrors and lenses. If you are seeing dust it will be up by the LCD panels and prism. If you do have to open the center area, take lots of pictures at each step and lift the top off super slowly so none of the lenses pick up with it and then fall so you lose their position. tl:dr: Go really really slow, take lots of pics and take your time. Use a photo/small brush and keyboard vacuum/normal vac adapter. Also, take your time.
I have an epson projector that I used maybe 50 hours then didn't use for quite a while, then when I turned it back on I have the dreaded blue vertical line. So disappointed in them. NEVER AGAIN I say. Sitting and doing nothing should not be a reason (no humidity, no strange conditions, just cool dry) to brick my projector. I did all the usual ribbon cable stuff (and mine is a HC 3500, pretty onerous to disassemble, boards are attached to each other...) no dust, immaculate inside, total disappointment. No available anything because it is old.
I recently bought a 5050ub and still have the Optoma UHZ65 both nice projectors but I do like the DLP image better. The Epson just gives a more film like image with better blacks. The DLPs are way sharper.
The modern DLP with dynamic iris' are really great. I don't dislike LCD pictures (I do prefer DLP), I just stay away usually because the alignment of the optics is sooo time consuming and difficult without the proper jigs and cables(which you can't buy). Epson as a company just rubs me wrong. One of my earliest projectors was a Sanyo PLV-Z4. My first non CRT projector was a Sharp that only projected 640x480. The best image I have personally seen is the 3DLP Sim2's out there. That 3DLP is where it's at in my opinion. I am also a sim2 fanboy.
@@FixitFrank I agree I have a Digital Projection Highlite HC 3 chip DLP 1080p.. and it is one of the nicest pictures I've seen it's just that it's hard to say no to these .47 and .66 chips. I never been prone to seeing rainbows so it doesn't bother me
Awesome video, thanks for posting it! I have an 8350 that flashed an iris fault once which cleared after a power reset. is it possible it was a one off fault? I was really hoping to see how to get at it while you tore down this machine - you must have been close to it while doing this repair?
Maybe. I have seen them get stuck and then loosen up. imgur.com/a/N2BuCLn I circled it here. Thats the assembly. They are pretty replaceable as long as the LCD panels are still okay.
Thanks for the response.. so here is what I know….went to turn on projector one day and nothing, just a lamp light red…so I changed the bulb with one we had in the cabinet was not sure if it was good or bad or who made it …and that one did not seem to work either - maybe it was a old one. Then ordered a new one and put that in off Amazon not a true Epson…that one did work and seemed to be a lot brighter but had a sort of heat smell. Like smelled hot or something or like just a new bulb. Then with that bulb in jt we got a temp light( over heated) and turned off…I did have two other thoughts…maybe I was running all these years on the eco setting which would be less bright thus less heat… and/ or maybe I always had it on a high altitude setting thus fans blowing more… really have no idea…I can will order the exact epson replacement unless you can think of another idea or anything else I could possibly check.. truly appreciate your help and guidance Rob
I'd return that Amazon lamp if you can. Amazon lamps cause so many problems in my experience. There are some that are fine but they are hard to find in the sea of cheap lamps. There is an air flap inside decent Epson replacement lamps that Amazon lamps rarely use. I'd go to www.projectorcentral.com/projector-lamp.htm and check these websites. All of them sell decent products. You don't really need an Epson original (I'd still check as their prices have dropped) but I'd stay away from Amazon lamps. See if a better quality lamp solves your issue.
Great video! I was able to repair my Epson 8350 3 years ago with the same problem. New problem....now the "lamp" warning light and the "Temp" warning lights are coming on a few seconds after start-up. I can hear the iris working, then the warning lights pop on. I opened it up and it appears that all 3 fans are working. I ordered an new lamp and it will come in a few days. Not sure if that will solve the problem, crossed fingers. Also, I don't know why the Temp warning would come on if it was a lamp issue. I would really love to hear any tips or opinions you would have. Thank you for your help!
I'm just guessing here but the cinema filter is another failure point on those. It's that sliding glass piece next to the iris. Both lamp and temp is unusual. I also doubt it's a lamp but it can't hurt to make sure. Easiest part to rule out.
Hello Frank One more quick question. I did check the items you mentioned. The picture on my samsung 8100 keeps flashing on and off about every 2-3 seconds If I press the menu button and view the menu, it does not flash on and off! The picture behind the menu continues to flash. Does this help narrow down my problem at all? Just a note, even if I do not have a device hooked to the projector, the samsung logo flashes on and off as well. Thanks again for your reply. Great videos!
Thats a tough one. I would try a factory reset first. If you have the same response with a signal connected, then I would be suspect of the mainboard. Its hard to say exactly where though. Also see if there are any factory firmware updates.
Where can new fans be purchased from? The only place that I could find using the Epson part number has been sold out for years. I've been living with a noisy fan, which works most of the time, but during the peak of summer when the inside temp is a few degrees warmer, I get the lamp overheating message and the unit shuts down.
I'd get the numbers off the fan itself. You can try the folks I use. gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com let them know I referred you. They should be able to help
Hello Frank. Hoping you can give some guidance. My 8100 has set for over a year. I decided to watch a movie with it the other day and the picture wont stay on. It comes on for 2 seconds and then off for 2 seconds. Just keeps doing this. Same with the epson logo when I first turn it on. Any advice? The fact that it worked fine the last time I used it and the long time it has set idle makes me guess dust or something but I thought I would ask your opinion. Thanks in advance.
Hey Shawn, Its hard to say exactly but here is what I would try. 1. Try another HDMI port. 2. Press menu, and see if that stays up(to see if its all video or just the input video). 3. Do a factory reset. If none of those work, then there is something else going on.
Would you be able to repair my Eason HC6100 for both lights blinking red or have suggestions. I suspect the fan too. Optics work at power up and I have a new lamp.
Maybe. Honestly epson is a real pain in the butt to repair. They won't sell parts to anyone unless they are factory authorized. I can get a lot of the secondary parts(fans, connectors, polarizers) but some parts are just not available. If you are okay with the chance of it not being repairable, I am happy to look at it. I don't charge a bench fee so if its not repairable, it won't cost you anything other than shipping. Hopefully its just a fan but if its ends up being a mainboard, I would not put any money into it. I have an email listed on the about page about halfway down. Feel free to reach out and we can discuss specifics.
Greetings Frank and thank you for this great video. Could you share some advice on the focus ring? Mine is stuck really tight and can’t seem to move, I hesitate on forcing it. Any advice is greatly welcome!
That is difficult. It really depends on how badly it is jammed. I would slowly try turning it after maybe warming it up with a hairdryer. I would not get it too warm but since it is used to light, it will handle some heat. the heat may allow the plastic to soften enough to turn and become unjammed. However if the posts that allow the lens to adjust have broken in the tracks, the lens might be too bad to unjam safely. This is a hard item to diagnose without seeing it, so please take this advice with a grain of salt. your best option is to slowly escalate the amount of force you use. Start out light and work at it harder until it moved. If it is too damaged to move again, then it won't matter.
Hello Frank great video I used a multi meter to diagnose my issue as you instructed as I also have a red light heat issue however I’m only getting half of the voltage on all four fans. I have the same unit as you pictured and I’m wondering if there’s some thing wrong in the power supply that you know of as when I stop a fan like you did or maybe another video it shuts the fan bulb off into the default and then I get the full voltage and the fans actually speed up so I’m wondering if you know if there’s a circuit prior to the fans getting the power as I said when the projector bulb is on I’m only getting six point something volts on all four fans and I don’t know if that’s normal as in what should the fan volts be under normal running / operating conditions. Oh any one more thing which may be important I did not get an Epson exact replacement I understand that you suggested that however I did not purchase an exact so I’m wondering if the bulb could be pulling more voltage that is drawing from the fans and this overheating thank you for your help much appreciated. Rob In NJ
Hey Rob, Short version, it's possibly the lamp but some aftermarket lamps use Osram or Philips bulbs and those are okay. It's the cheapo amazon lamps you really need to watch out for. As far as the fan behavior, that sounds correct to me. The fans change the speed with the voltage. 6-7v would be a slower speed(low noise). When you stopped the fan, it sent a stall warning via the third wire to the projector. The projector then turns off the lamp and sets the fans to cool-down mode which is high speed. What was your original problem? Was is not coming on and one of the error LEDs was on?
This is brilliant, as I've run into the same problem on my TW5500. However, it appears it was the front exhaust fan. Since it is really hard to source I have replaced it with a Noctua fan that was similar (but not quite the same) in spec. I had to solder the plug from the old fan as it was a different connector. However, since I did that, I keep getting the instant temperature warning and the bulb shutting off. Could this be related to the non-standard fan? Or do I need to learn how to voltmeter everything now? I have tested each fan seperately, they all still rotate. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Yup it's definitely the fan you used. They need to use the same model as the old fan. Rpm reporting and CFM are critical. If you replace it with an original model fan you should be okay.
I have two of these 8100s that failed the same way. There is distortion/smudging of the colors only on the center of the image. Can this be repaired? Thanks!
Hi Gustavo, Sadly the repair is probably not cost effective. I have another video going up shortly about the 8100 that this projector is replacing. The problem is in the output prism. There is a coating that seems to fail, either from dust falling on it or purely just age and damage from thermal cycles. Here is a picture of the damage. imgur.com/nXHJeiv The only viable repair I can think of is replacing the entire optical assembly, including all 3 LCD panels(they are aligned to the prism and not adjustable after the fact), their polarizers and whatever that filter is. Epson seems to fail this was a lot. Either the panels, the polarizers or the prism. That is a big reason why I don't do a lot of these. A replacement Optical assembly will definitely be used so there is no way to ensure another 5-10 years of operation. Maybe 3-5 years if the assembly is in good shape with low hours. I expect the projector in this video to last at least another 5 years. It seems to have low hours and was very well cared for. The annoying part is that even with high levels of maintenance and care, the plastics used in the optics will still break down regardless of how much cleaning and care the projector is given. I'll have the newer video about the unrepairable 8100 up later this week if you want to see the details. I wish I had better news for you, but I would suggest selling those for parts if you can. Put that money towards something newer that you like.
Thanks, Frank for the opening of the Projector. I have the 8350 and getting an Auto Iris Error. I will need to take apart the lens area. Any advice would be good.
Take your time! that is the best advice. Go super slow and make small movements when disconnecting the LCD cables. The biggest mistake people make is over flexing the LCD cables. They sit so long in that position that they will snap easily if you over bend them. you may get away without removing the mainboard to get to the iris. It is located by the lamp see this link. I circled its location. imgur.com/a/wFjVPal You can follow the wire to it. Most likely you just need to clean the old grease off the gears. I find that they run better with no lubrication. The dust starts to get into the grease and bind it up. I have a used but good Iris from an 8350 if you find yours is damaged. I have an email on the about page if you need it.
I have an Epson 8350 and the screen just started flickering. Is this a sign a need a new bulb? I bought this used off craigslist and was told there was a new bulb in here, but I have no idea how to tell. If you have any ideas it would be much appreciated.
Make sure the lamp is in standard not eco. If that doesn't change I would try another lamp. It sounds lamp related to me. There's no real easy way to tell. I honestly just look at them but I also have been working with lamps for 15~years. The simple version is look into the center of the lens of the lamp. If it looks at all cloudy or dirty then assume it's worn. If it's shiny and clean, you're probably okay. If you buy a new lamp make sure it at least has an Osram bare bulb inside of it's not an Epson original. Don't buy knock offs. I've seen them ruin these projectors.
Hello Frank. Amazing video thank you for sharing! I have this projector and the same error. Where would I be able to buy replacement fans if I were to attempt to follow your Amazing helpful video?
There are a couple of options. I find that googling the part # on the fan itself is good. Or, if you want to contact Time Electronics, they should have some. They are in China but they ship DHL and take paypal. Email is gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com If you are in the states, I have some used/good fans that I would let go cheap.
I have the same projector I am getting a bit of blurring and a pink hue around the edge of the screen any thoughts? I am thinking it's dust inside. Could this be the bulb I did buy an aftermarket bulb maybe 75 hours ago.
Probalby not the lamp if its around the edge. Also I am pretty sure Epson no longer has these lamps. They basically stopped selling replacement lamps and only sell what is left in stock. That does sound like dust but it might also be the coating on the combiner prism after the LCDs. This is a fairly old projector by epson standards so I would not put too much money into it. I'd definitely suggest having someone see if it needs cleaning. If its not dirty then its the optics failing.
@@FixitFrank Thank you ya it's not too bad. I am pretty handy I was thinking about taking it apart and cleaning it. Probably not bad enough yet to risk breaking those LCD cables. I was hoping you were going to open one all the way up in a previous video. Oh well thanks again for the response. Have a great weekend.
Hi. brilliant job. I have an epson eh-tw3600 which has the same chassis as your hc8100. The problem with mine is both the lamp and temp lights are blinking red and the projector is not powering on. I'm guessing it has the same lamp fan problem not spinning and/or busted lamp due to lamp fan which probably stopped blowing. Need some advise as to what should I be doing to fix my projector. Thanks.
hi frank i am in canada i have epson -HC 8350 = I REPLACED new lamp and it working fine fir 2 weeks but NO LAMP LIGHT IS NOT ON THE POWER LIGHT AND STAND BUT NO LAMP LIGHT help frank ???
I would try a new lamp first. Get a warranty replacement. If a new lamp is going to be defective, it will usually fail within the first month of regular use(first 100 hours or so). If it is not an Epson original(in an epson box) that can be another issue. The 8350 is older and when they get older, they seem to be more picky about the lamps that will work. Many aftermarket options use Osram inside and those are not bad at all and a good option instead of an Epson original with Iwasaki eye lamp inside. If a second lamp also fails after 2 weeks, you may want to see about having the projector cleaned internally. Early lamp failure from dust build up that causes excessive heat is not uncommon.
What troubleshooting have you done so far? I would suggest reviewing some of my BenQ videos. I suspect one of those videos will show you where you want to look. I would start with looking for BenQ color wheel videos and then fan videos. Check your manual and compare to the LED codes when the projector shuts down.
so watched this video as i need to figure out how to replace the fan in the projector we have...but im pretty sure my issue is the exhaust fan. its very loud, almost like a lawn mower (grinding type sound). it runs, but it gave the overheating pop up so i know its not working well. do you have another vid where you replace the exhaust fan for one of these? or even what fan to buy, I see some listed on walmart but no idea how to tell if its real or knock off?
See who the seller is. Walmart is kind of like amazon or rakuten. They allow sellers to post stores and sell their wares. As long as the model info of the fan is the same, it should work. If not, feel free to contact the folks I use. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com They are wonderful.
@@FixitFrank thank you! i ended up talking to my brother about it and was able to take it apart and replace the back corner fan, a piece of orange padding was rubbing on the fans so its running much better now! (my brother had already bought fans for it). but now there is a bad 'hot plastic' kind of smell coming from the projector.......its not overly hot and not giving any errors and is running fine. is it just the new part plastic smell? i googled and a few threads said its normal for new set ups but what about just a new fan?
If the lamp is new that is kind of normal for a bit. It should let up though. If the lamp is older and the fan is new that might be part of it but it should stop making that smell pretty quick. Im not really sure what else could cause it but it's going to be something near the lamp. Make sure a wire or something didn't shift and end up in the hot air path.
@@FixitFrank I took a pic of everything running before closing it up and it didn't look like any wires were out of place so hopefully its just the new parts. i think i put a new bulb in, but the box was unmarked so it could have been an old one that just wasn't thrown out yet.. (just ordered a couple new bulbs though)
If its a new bulb that is not very uncommon. It should let up pretty quickly though. If you keep smelling it after an hour or two, let it cool down and take it out and give it a visual exam and make sure the air vents are allowing enough air flow. Give the bulb a shake and make sure you hear the ceiling/table air flap moving. It should rattle a bit when you shake it. some amazon bulbs skip the air flap but it causes the bulbs to run too hot. You want to hear that rattle.
I have a 8350 that powers on and will sometimes power off with both red lights flashing. The bulb powers up and you hear the iris working. Before shutting off you hear a similar sound. Could this also be fan related? Do you clean any of the glass etc? Will probably open mine up in the near future. Thanks for helpful video so far!
Definitely possible. The 8350 is almost identical to the 8100. I would be suspicious of the fans and the filter. I did not clean the glass because the previous owner seems to have already done it. Also, there are a lot of aligned pieces of lens and mirrors that if you move them to clean, it makes it hard to re-align them. Then there is the flexible LCD cables that can break if you breathe on them too hard. I would clean the fans, the ducts and gently the exposed glass but I would not take it all the way apart. They are designed to run with some dust and in cleaning a projector, less is definitely more. Disturb as little as possible and you will have the best results. remember this is a 10+ year old projector and anything that happens will only cost a lot to repair so keep it basic with the cleaning and you can't go wrong. I would find the fan problem first though and go from there. Feel free to email me if you get stuck. Its on the about tab.
Dirk, I have the same problem, did you find any solution? Please let me know. I suspect Iris issue, because sometimes when it shuts down the way you explained and I start the PJ again it shows the Auto Iris error.
@@FixitFrank thanks for the video frank, really helpful, if I ever find courage to open my PJ apart to fix the issue. Pls check my reply to Dirk in this thread, do you think it can be iris error?
Hi Frank, after many months I finally able to open the projector up and clean as much as possible without disturbing the lenses etc. It seems my cinema filter does not move at all though you can hear the motor trying work but is does seem to be slipping since the gears are plastic. I opened the original gearbox cleaned and regreased is but no difference apart from being less noisy. Is it part of the epson start up process to move the cinema filter between the limit switches in order to gather a starting point should it have to be moved in front of the lenses later on? Almost like a "reset" with each power on? I managed to find a good forum post on AVS. If you google epson powerlite cinema filter noisy it takes you to a link where a user had replaced the plastic gearbox with a 6v micro metal gear motor. There is some slight modification necessary but nothing too wild. If it's the case that the fkilter should move at startup then I really am disappointed how epson would use plastic parts in such an application.
I just got a non working 8350. Power light comes on, push power button the source light comes on like it’s booting. However there is just one click from around the power supply (sounds like a relay). No iris or slide noises, the source light stays on for about 20 seconds, then both source and power lights flash off for a second, and finally power light comes back on. I’m thinking it’s a power issue, it’s probably losing power and resetting that’s why there’s no error? I looked at the power supply and ballast, no burn marks. Where should I begin troubleshooting? Thanks!
Hi Ben! I'd check to see if you have 380vdc to the ballast. That confirms the pfc supply is working. Then the low voltage to the main board should be a mix of 5/12v, possibly 3.3 as well. Epson doesn't offer service info so it's a little difficult to know specifics. I tend to follow the capacitors on the low voltage side to know where to check. I know the noise you mean too and I agree it's probably a power supply issue. I bet the ballast is okay. Might even be worth just finding a used power supply. I suspect they are reasonably priced these days.
Thank you so much for the reply, you’re awesome!! I did check power to the ballast, I had 380vdc across i believe black and red. Do I need to be checking voltages across the white wire as well? I’m assuming check from the low voltage white wire going to the main board to each black wire? How do you use the capacitors to tell you where/what to look for low voltage wise? I have a basic idea what’s going on cuz I do HVAC work but I get lost in computer boards lol. Thank you again for your help, there’s so little info on these I really appreciate it!!
Checked some voltages today. I only had 3v from one wire to white and 3.5 from another. After pushing power I got 14v on a couple other wires. The weird thing is the white wire itself has 3.5v to ground after pushing the power button, so I’m thinking there is a short somewhere causing the neutral to go hot and the power supply is seeing that or just over amping and shutting down after a bit. I probed around and found that the coil side of the relay that clicks on when the power button is pushed has 0 ohms to ground. That’s gotta be the issue right? Just making sure before I start trying to figure out where it’s shorted. Also it seems about 3 of the black low voltage wires just go to ground on the main board. I believe those same 3 wires go to ground on the power supply, just making sure that’s normal. Thank you again for your help.
If you have the 380, that is a good sign. I would check the low voltage output now. when I say I go off the capacitors, I use their polarity to determine where to measure. One side will be ground/0vdc. the other side will be the positive DC voltage. Since they tend to oversize the caps, a cap rated at 25V usually is filtering a 12v signal. A 10v rated cap will be filtering a 5 or 3.3vdc line. that relay might be correct. It might be grounding a line to enable something. I need to pull that scrap supply I have to look... speaking of. I have a scrap 8100 with a good power supply(bad optics). If you are in the states, I would sell it cheap. My email is listed on the about page.
@@FixitFrank It's half the money I charged for fixing a BENQ projector. Extensive cleaning + colour wheel replacement. Charged 40 euros for the whole thing, colour wheel was purchased by the owner. Could not have done it without you, so happy to send at least half along your way! Thanks again for everything! (P.S. Certified BENQ service centre was asking 50 euros just to check the machine, 50 for cleaning and 200 for the colour wheel. They would not accept customer to provide their own part. So, everyone is happy)!
Is the bulb from Epson or from an aftermarket or Amazon? There is a chance the iris is sticking but I'd expect an error. How is the color clarity? Any yellow blobs in the picture?
@@FixitFrank it’s a genuin Epson oem bulb from Jasper tropics. Cool doesn’t look the greatest but I think that’s cause it’s so dim. I still have my Epson 5020 and compared the two. The 5020 is way way brighter and is technically supposed to be 100 lumens less.
If its Jaspertronics, its probably not an original lamp. If it was in an Epson box(and $168) then it probably was(with them I wouldn't be sure though) but if it was their $79 version it's a knock off and junk. In all seriousness their lamps are utter garbage. I can't count the number of projectors I had to repair due to their lamps. They lie in their listings about the quality and bulbs used. They even have sold lamps with counterfeit Philips. I'd send it back asap unless it was in that epson box. My most recent video about the Optoma GT1080 Darbee had a jasper lamp and it was the root cause of everything. They drive me nuts with the trash they flood the market with. Nothing but fancy advertising...should I say how I truly feel? :) I know these cost more but it would be worth it to know its the right lamp. BHPhoto has the true OEM. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/835104-REG/Epson_V13H010L69_ELPLP69_Replacement_UHE_Projector.html $259 Epson directly is $299 epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/ELPLP69-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L69 Purelandsupply.com has aftermarket versions but even as much as I like their stuff, I think the OEM from Epson/BHPhoto is a better option even if its more expensive. That is why I question the OEM Jasper lists. I know what they cost wholsale, so I am not sure how they can sell them so cheap unless something is up.
@@FixitFrank I got the most expensive one they had. 216 bucks. It’s an Epson one. Came in an Epson box, had the hologram sticker on it. Says Epson on the bulb. Not saying it couldn’t be the bulb, but yeah 🤷♂️ it’s strange
In that case it's probably okay. I just know they are not trustworthy for their listings. I'll figure it's a real Epson if it has the sticker. Try disabling the auto iris. Otherwise the only other possibilities are problems with the ballast or maybe the optics. Usually optic problems are more like color blobs and pink/blue lines.
Hi Frank, big fan of your channel. I was trying to modify my EPSON TW5400's exhausting fan. The fan is CE-6035R-01 CD12V 170mA, which has 4 pins(RBYW). Could you help me with the definition of the pins. Was it Power, Ground, Sensor, Control, just like the computer fans. Many Thanks.
Hi Timo. Make sure the Stall reporting type(sensor) is the same as the original. Some fans report using PWM with one pulse per RPM. Some use 2 pulses per RPM. Others do not use pulses but will go high to VCC on stall or down to ground on stall. That is the hard part to match. But if you can match that and the CFM you should be OK. Usually in epson they report stall high. Meaning if the fan sticks, the sensor wire(yellow) reports 3.3v. The color code should be correct. red/black power/ground, yellow status, and white temp. Just make sure your substitute fan matches the same. you may be able to find datasheets on both and compare. That might be easiest.
@@FixitFrank Thank you for clarified all these for me (I don't speak english well, so i'm not sure, if clarified was the right word :)). I also need to ask some other questions, although it may sounds basic. You said stall reporting on Epson usually go high to VCC. Does it means, When the power and ground on the fan are both connected (to the power source). Then I make the fan stall. I'll get a 3.3v reading between the sensor wire and ground wire. If the answer was no. And I won't able to find the fan's datasheets. Was there any testing method? Or was there a particular model or type of fan for me to look in to? And thank you again for all the time and patients.
I disagree. Your English is quite good. In fact it is very good! Better than many native speakers. My Finnish is "todella paha". I know perkele and normaali päivä... To answer your question, you are correct! When the fan is stalled, you will measure a positive voltage on the sense wire. In Epson I measure 3.3v but in other projectors it may read as high as the VCC(12v). I don't know if you saw this video, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kCOSQ8dVZvc.html It is about DLP fans but the test steps are the same for all fans. What is your end goal? Is it to make the projector more quiet?
@@FixitFrank The only Finnish thing I know was LevanPolkka XDDD. By learning English I almost achieved to get all the info I need. Maybe that's why I stop learning new languages, or maybe it was just my laziness talking. Thanks for the approval for my English. (BTW I speak mandarin) For your last question. The answer was YES. This little thing's noise is killing me. I thought if I can replace it with a bigger fan which has lower RPM to match the CFM, it may reduce the noise. I already got an idea for 3D print fan bracket. The only thing to make sure was the pin match. Several week ago I found your channel. After go through your recent videos, I knew your the person to aks. Now I gotta see your fan testing video to learn more. Thanks man, I mean it.
