Error Code F-09 on LG Gas Oven/Range: How to diagnose and fix. 

To their credit, igniters can be temperamental. It is a common failure point on many stoves and furnaces as well. Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful.

That's awesome Sarah! Thanks for the comment!

I didn't even think to do a broiler swap while waiting for parts. GENIUS!

Great suggestion! I did the same switch with the broiler & oven igniters, and now the oven works. Also a relief to know it wasn’t the relay board. Thanks!

Thank! Same error on my LG. Ordered the igniter on Ebay. While I'm waiting I also swapped my broiler igniter with my oven igniter. Super easy fix! Saved me $250+ Took about an hour cuz I had to take back panel off to get to broiler igniter. I don't think I've ever used my broiler, so the igniter is basically brand new. When the new igniter comes in I'll install it in the broiler and keep it as a spare! Thanks!

That's what I was thinking when I seen this video was to swap them out and see if it works.

Thanks for letting me know. That's great!

Awesome. Good luck with the new ignitor installation. I now keep one handy ready to go at all times since they are relatively cheap.

Awesome. Hope everything goes great! Keep us posted.

How did it go?

@@JCTFIXIT Just received the part today. Will probably replace tomorrow. 🤞

@@JCTFIXIT Success!! We just installed the igniter. 🔥 The oven seems to be heating well - and the temp seems regulated. You might notice more view time today on this video. That would be us. 🙋‍♂️🙋‍♀️ Thanks again for walking us thru the process!

Awesome! Congratulations 👏👏👏

Awesome. Thanks for your comments

We thought the same thing! 😉😄 So we're cleaning our own oven and drawer as we wait a couple days for the part to be delivered. Some good motivation. Scrub a dub dub! 🧽🧽🪣

This was at my folks' house. Props mom on the clean oven!

So glad it helped you Larry! Thanks for commenting.

That makes me happy. Thanks for sharing your experience 😊

And it's only the beginning. We will get to a point where fewer and fewer people have the knowledge to fix and maintain their own equipment.

I guess there's going to be a huge up-side to this as it will create demand for techs. Or maybe they'll evolve AI to do this for us dumb humans. :🤣@@JCTFIXIT

Sooooo happy my video helped you! This warms my heart. Merry Christmas!

@@JCTFIXIT Merry Christmas to you!

Thanks for taking the time to let me know. It makes me happy to help others!

Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I really appreciate it.

Good to hear! About to replace the same.

So happy this helped out. This is why I made it!

So awesome!

Glad it was helpful to you! Thanks for the comment.

Awesome! Glad it was helpful.

I'll tell you where to send some cookies. :) haha jk

@@JCTFIXIT lol sounds good haha

Would have been. :)

Glad it helped you!

That might work if it's just on the fritz. People are creative!

You're welcome. Hopefully you found it helpful.

Thanks! It could be a couple things.... I would check the relay that the broiler igniter is hooked up to. You can check for continuity across the relay and it should show that there is none.....and then when you turn broiler on it should have continuity. If it does not, it is the relay or a board component driving the relay but if I remember correctly, the relays are soldered directly to the main control board. So I would probably just replace the whole board at that point. Good luck!

Yes. It could be. I have seen furnaces act the same way. If there are small little fractures in the ignitor element, it can cause an intermittent issue.

YW

I have not encountered that issue yet. Wish I was more helpful to you.

Glad I could help you out!

That's one way to solve the problem.

So glad I could help you out Cheryl!

That could be convection fan.....

Good luck!

On my model it is so I would imagine others it is as well

I hope it was helpful!

@@JCTFIXIT yes I couldn't fix my stove without your video . Thank you again

my part number was MEE61841401

@@donduffy6302 Same part # here.

If you test your igniter with a multimeter that will tell you if it is the igniter or not and then you can move on to the relay

Issue could also be caused by the oven safety valve and to test the igniter correctly you neesd a clamp meter and use the clamp around one lead of the igniter turn bake on or broil on wich ever your testing and if igniter is good you should 3.3 to 3.6 amps on the meter if anything below 3.3 amps resistance is to high in said part replace and test!

To be even more specific, you open the back panel and disconnect ends to the relay, then check for continuity when the oven is turned on. If the you never get continuity, the relay is the culprit. You can verify whether or not your valve is working by turning on the broiler or stove top to test for functionality. If they do not ignite either, then that is likely to be the issue.

I wouldn't suggest checking continuity with the relay closed, even at low voltage it can screw up your multimeter. Check the relay by reading voltage which should be done anyways just to make sure there isn't more than 1 problem with the until.

@@vernclements1343 if you don’t have a clamp meter a voltage reading will also work. 120V at the igniter and no glow means bad igniter. No voltage means relay or valve. Walk the lines from the igniter, one will go to the control and the other to the valve. Measure from the relay board wire and at the igniter, to the other end of the valve (line from board not from igniter). 120V there and no glow check both sides of the valve (no voltage, bad relay or thermal cutout, chase wires to control board). The valve will have a threshold voltage (~2.5-3.7vac) marked on it. 120V means bad valve. Voltage below threshold means bad igniter. Note (some LG’s use a DC valve assembly. Which is tested differently. The igniter resistance will lower when it heats up. If the igniter is getting hot enough it will allow voltage to pass through to the valve (coil) when the voltage gets high enough the valve opens. This is a safety feature that prevents the oven from, releasing gas unless the igniter is hot enough to light it. DC Valves, just checking the igniter voltage, no glow no voltage chase wires to pcb for thermal cutout or bad wire. 120v no glow, bad igniter. Glow and no ignition check voltage of valves for dc spec voltage on valve (usually 12v, some are 5v) 99% of the time it’s the igniter. When in doubt swap it out. ;) Ohm reading is tough and the one in the video is way high for a new igniter, might just be a LG thing but most igniters should ideally read between 100 and 150ohms a new igniter can read as low as 75 and still be good.

I don't have it handy, but these ignitor are the same across a ton of models, so if it looks just like mine in the video it should be good.

Thank you for the quick reply. I meant the stove model number

I don't have the model number available. It is a relatives.

There is a child lock feature that you press and hold. Try to toggle that and let it lock and then after about 10 seconds press and hold to unlock.

@@JCTFIXIT Thank you for responding, but toggling the child lock didn't work. Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Have you pulled the power and then plugged back in?

The locking mechanism could be broken

@@JCTFIXIT Yes I did, for 30 minutes.

Let me make sure I understand you correctly. Are you saying that you already replaced the igniter? I would say if you have not replaced it then I would go ahead and do so if that does not work with a new ignitor then that's when you need to look at the relay on your control board and probably get a new control board.

Not sure what exactly you are asking. The oven light bulb should function regardless of your ignitor. If you try to set your oven to a certain temp and press bake, it will give you an error code if it is not heating up.

Not sure on that. You could switch the igniter from your Broiler and put it in the oven and see if you still get the gas smell that would tell you your igniters probably going out if the smell goes away

@@JCTFIXIT thanks for the suggestion. I may give that a try.

Try harder?

@@JCTFIXIT What kind of response is that? lol *"Remove the bottom panel"* -There is no bottom panel to remove. *"Try harder"* -???

The easiest way to rule the main ignitor out would be to switch it out with the broiler ignitor and see if it lights.

I will give it a try, thank you, great video by the way👍

Good luck.

@@JCTFIXIT ok the swap worked so off to the store for new igniter, once the snow stops lol, thanks again I’m sure it saved us a pocket full of cash

Yeah the area code basically indicates that you're not getting ignition so it is very likely that your igniter is faulty it would not hurt to go ahead and swap it

@@JCTFIXIT Replaced the ignition oven works like a charm. Thanks

That's hard to say. You could switch your broiler ignitor to your main 9ven and see if you can rule the ignitor out. Good luck.

Did you watch the video?

@@JCTFIXIT yes, here is the problem: I ca “force” my bake function to work if I turn on the top gas burners, but I get F-09 if I try the bake function without the top burners. Can this be circuit board issue as well ?

Sounds like you need to replace your ignitor.

@@JCTFIXIT ok thanks for the help. Much appreciated. I will try the igniter first and if that doesn’t work I will replace the circuit board.

Which part?

Gas valve or control board

Either bad gas valve or faulty relay on board.

@@JCTFIXIT could it still be the igniter or for sure not? I have the exact same as in video My burners work.

Could be both ignitor but doubtful......

@@JCTFIXIT would you happen to have a part number for the board?

you would need to pull yours and search it

Hey man, I'll take it. Time to start the JCT FIX it podcast? 😉

Good chance that the broiler ignitor has failed.

Could be broiler ignitor.... I would start there.

@@JCTFIXIT thank You. I’m going to order it today. We don’t use the broiler very often, but I will fix it nonetheless. I’ll follow your page and let you know how it all turned out later. 👌🏽

Thank you!

@@JCTFIXIT glad to help you blow up

.......the ignitor?

This will give you 100% chance for success because amps don't lie

Amp clamp would work as well if you want to test it while plugged in, but all it tells you is that no power is being drawn, it doesn't help you know where your failed component is. If the relay was bad, you would have no way of knowing with an amp clamp. Same with the ignitor. By ohming the circuit out, you can pin point your problem.

Also, amp clamp only works for AC power, so there are many instances that an amp clamp will not help you in the electronics world.

I suppose if reading low amps, this could work well, but you would need to know what normal operating thresholds are. Both methods are fairly easy to perform.