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ERV/HRV vs Dehum - What’s the difference? 

Matt Risinger
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Sponsored by Ultra-Aire. I get this question all the time. Which fresh air strategy should I use? What’s better? Why is my humidity high in my new High Performance Home? Do I need both? Won’t my AC drop the humidity in my house? Isn’t a Dehumidifier unnecessary if I have an ERV? In today’s video I’ll take a dive into all these questions and more! Thanks to Ultra Aire for sponsoring. www.ultra-aire.com/
And here’s the link to the only split dehumidifier that I know of on the market the SD-12. www.ultra-aire.com/dehumidifi...
Follow Matt on Instagram! / risingerbuild
or Twitter / mattrisinger
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Rockwool & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Dorken.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Viewrail.com
www.Rockwool.com

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2 янв 2020

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Комментарии : 370   
@mikeisnumber58
@mikeisnumber58 4 года назад
Thanks Matt. Love that you talked about how to use them in conjunction with each other.
@juanjoseamador7614
@juanjoseamador7614 8 месяцев назад
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! ru-vid.comUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
@StevePatak
@StevePatak 4 года назад
Matt, Would love to see a video that involves retrofitting a system into an existing home with multiple HVAC zones that goes through the considerations and complications of trying to make something fit with existing equipment.
@anando005
@anando005 11 месяцев назад
Glad to see this video. Recently put an ultraire dehumidifier in my house because my builder didn’t despite having unvented attic and entire house is spray foamed. I will say in last day or so we noticed we are much comfortable at 73-74 as opposed to having to keep temps at 70 prior to installing the dehumidifier I’ve learned a lot from your videos and helped me make sure my builder wasn’t taking short cuts.
@garypapesh1345
@garypapesh1345 4 года назад
Excellent pros and cons video! You truly serving your viewers with this one! Plus I’m into HVAC 🤓
@fishbowl7098
@fishbowl7098 4 года назад
As a Realtor,love this channel for learning!
@seikibrian8641
@seikibrian8641 3 года назад
On another type of learning topic: remember to put a space after commas and other punctuation marks.
@chadwhite2736
@chadwhite2736 4 года назад
Great video Matt. We build in Northwest Arkansas and have all four seasons with times of high humidity. It was not until we spent three years in Arizona that I understood Comfort was not tied to temperature but rather humidity. We would leave our AC at 78° and be more comfortable than 70° in a high humidity area.
@jeremylourie5270
@jeremylourie5270 4 года назад
Hello, fellow NWA brother.
@scorpio6587
@scorpio6587 4 года назад
This is perfect, as I am trying to decide this very detail.
@compactc9
@compactc9 3 года назад
Watching your videos has convinced me that I'll likely have to build my house to get what I want. One of the big items is the HVAC, I think my personal preference leans towards radiant ceilings and some kind of ducted system to circulate purified outdoor air to keep the IAQ controlled. I have terrible allergies, hate high humidity, and love feeling cold.
@christinearmington
@christinearmington 3 года назад
👍❄️
@jasontoolan3816
@jasontoolan3816 Год назад
Thank you Matt, for sharing how we can reuse conditioned air. On the path to a more regenerative future.
@megacleancab256
@megacleancab256 4 года назад
I live in Central Florida. I just had the insulation 2.0 system and the UltraAire 98. Dropped my bill by 1/2. We work from home and were very worried about indoor air quality. Glad I watch you and this old house.
@sameinsohn6187
@sameinsohn6187 4 года назад
Solid! I’m doing the same thing DIY in Miami area. Hoping for same results.
@BlackEagle540
@BlackEagle540 4 года назад
Hi Matt, we live in desert high plains northern Nevada. We want the circulation but really want more humidity as we have vaporizers right now. What do you recommend?
@pkla14
@pkla14 4 года назад
Thank you so much for going over this. I literally ran into a house today that the engineer advised putting ERVs in. The house already had humidity problems (it’s over 70%) and this is in Tropical climate (Miami area). I told the client exactly what you’re saying.
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
Yep for hot and coastal everything matt is saying is super valid. Up here in the northern parts though this makes very little sense. There are a lot of options for managing humidity with an AC including distributing out the time it runs. I wish that context was given in the video. Builders should be using vary different systems depending on the climate.
@UltraAireDehumid
@UltraAireDehumid 4 года назад
@@Furiends We absolutely agree that systems need to be designed and sized differently for different climate zones. The challenge no matter where the home is located (in a green grass climate) is counting on the A/C to dehumidify to the desired RH all the time. As you know, Hvac systems are sized based on peak load conditions, which most homes see only 1% of the time. There are systems that ramp down to remove more humidity but they are still over cooling to dehumidify leading to comfort issues. Typically in climate zones 4,5,6 (northern) the AC does not run enough during the spring, parts of summer, and fall to always be able to handle the moisture loads. We are actually seeing this more and more in the South as homes are being built tighter tighter. Dew points can get just as high in Minnesota as they do in Miami - they just don't last as long. Plus, people generate a lot of moisture in the home. During the spring and fall this is a double whammy with little to no A/C running. We truly believe that the AC system should be designed to remove as much water as possible when it is running (without over cooling), that fresh outdoor air should be brought in to the home when people are home to ensure good indoor air quality (no matter what the conditions are outside), and a dedicated dehumidifier should be used to control the moisture during the times the AC can't (spring, fall, evenings, rainy times, etc...). We all know that homeowners do not live in their homes and operate their systems like we design them to. Moisture is the number detriment to buildings and our comfort and health. Not saying every home in the northern climates needs a whole house dehumidifier but they most likely will need some sort of dehumidification, especially in a basement or crawl space, which will help control the humidity in the rest of the home also.
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
@@UltraAireDehumid There's a lot of systems to go over so I'll just give an example of what I am talking about. Also I want to reiterate it isn't just sizing systems its carefully designing them for a space down to the exact air flow. It makes a massive differences if they'll work or not no matter how big the system is. As an example lets say a home is built tight with an HRV which maximizes dehumidification and an HVAC humidifier options in a temperate climate zone. Meaning most of the time the humidity outside is at or lower than the target humidity. The AC can lower the humidity at least when it runs. The AC even with constant flow can run for shorter lengths of time to dehumidify more and the HRV can circulate more to lower the humidity and this will be at the more moderate temperatures of the year. Thats it you're done. You don't need a massively complicated system. Mainly you need the wiggle room to not be wasting lows of energy reheating or cooling duct work and to not have a super leaky house that would have a hard time during the summer. Depending on exact locations the challenges are different. It's a consequence of a minisplit system used in a mostly hot climate that you really need central circulation to keep things dehumidifying as suggested in the video for example. Forced air is probably a better solution in terms of cost effectiveness in a hot humid climate.
@carterdjohnson9673
@carterdjohnson9673 4 года назад
Matt, we recommend installing the ERV/HRV and taking the bathroom air back to the unit with a UV light in the airstream before the coil. Some people in the area like to add the dehumidifier also, however that is on higher-end homes where more space for mechanical is available. In mid-range to low-cost housing, we generally use the A/C system as the dehumidifier like in a car as the retrofit in the controls package, changing the humidity levels based on air-changes and base temperatures. This can work for home and commercial systems.
@bobbygetsbanned6049
@bobbygetsbanned6049 Год назад
UV light creates ozone which you don't want to breath...
@carterdjohnson9673
@carterdjohnson9673 Год назад
@Bobby Gets Banned Small amounts of Ozone are not harmful. No, UV-C light does not produce ozone. However, the shorter Ultraviolet-V (UV-V at 185 nanometers) wavelength of UVV light actually generates ozone. This occurs because UVV light reacts with oxygen to break it into atomic oxygen, a highly unstable atom that combines with oxygen to form O3 (Ozone).
@charlespaine987
@charlespaine987 5 месяцев назад
@@bobbygetsbanned6049note there are UVC SOURCES in the correct wave lengths that still actively disinfect without producing ozone. Technology marches on sometimes.
@swampcastle8142
@swampcastle8142 5 месяцев назад
AC systems used as dehumidifiers are either undersized on purpose so they run continuously or add a large resisrance heating coil to reheat the air to force the AC to run longer. Both bad ideas. The first is hard on the equipment and can't keep up during heat waves, and the second just blows out the monthly bill to run it. A dedicated dehumidifier works the best.
@alexgray1905
@alexgray1905 3 года назад
Very interesting and very informative ... great job explaining what I consider difficult thermodynamic concepts. 👍
@bchilva
@bchilva 3 года назад
How do you install both systems? Are they on a separate duct system together? Would like you to do a video on how these are both installed
@ParabellumX
@ParabellumX Год назад
Great explanation, Matt. Thanks for the video! You couldn't have been any closer to the truth when you said that every home down here in the south needs a dehumidifier. When I purchased mine, it was literally my best investment ever.
@Will_Wel
@Will_Wel 4 года назад
Great video. Anyway you could do a comparison between brands of dehumidifiers such as Ultra air, ideal air, quest, anden etc.
@fatdiesel44
@fatdiesel44 4 года назад
Great explanation, thanks Matt!
@imatl1755
@imatl1755 3 года назад
I'm in the design phase for a new, tightly sealed house in Atlanta, GA (hot, humid climate). We plan to use the same combination of ERV and whole house dehumidifier that you discuss. My question is about ducting. I would guess the gold standard method would be to duct both systems independently. But how well would it work to use a dedicated return line for the dehumidifier but then duct the supply into the ERV supply line (somewhere after the ERV unit). I know there might be static pressure problems if both units run at the same time, but could you set it up so the dehumidifier turning on turned off the ERV? Would you be able to run the dehumidifier long enough to deal with the humid Atlanta air while still allowing the ERV to run enough per hour to bring in sufficient fresh air? Thanks Matt! Great topic!
@nickg3794
@nickg3794 4 года назад
Seen this on This Old House the other day. Now on the dehumidifier, creating dew...in a dark, cool place.... sounds like another great place for mold to grow.
@nuraghage
@nuraghage 4 года назад
Hi Matt, very interesting comparison! We just finish to build our home here in Europe, Mediterranean aerea, not so cold but quite warm and humid in summer. We installed a combi machine that does HRV + heating through the ventilation and onboard heat pump + domestic Hot Water. To solve the problem of the air humidity and A/C functionality we installed an indoor coil connected to another external airconditioning heat pump. This indoor coil is installed just before the supply collector and works independetly from the combi machine. What do you think about the combi machines in general for the modern high energy efficency homes?
@KJSvitko
@KJSvitko 4 года назад
Many homes have just too much air leakage. All new homes and all remodels need to have a blower door test and seal up air leaks first. I wish all builders / remodelers did blower door tests as standard practice. It makes the home more comfortable and saves energy / utility bills on heating and cooling.
@augustreil
@augustreil 4 года назад
Pretty much a standard here in Ct, at least the homes we work on.
@StevePatak
@StevePatak 4 года назад
Depending on your local code adoption, BDT is required under the Energy Code. Of course that means nothing if you have a lax enforcement agency doing the CofO on new and rebuilt homes that only requires seeing a certified test document...ask me how I know...
@HistoricHomePlans
@HistoricHomePlans 4 года назад
If you haven't seen Matt's other videos he has done many on how to make homes airtight. Some of them also show blower door tests.
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
@@nathandean1687 You would think cookie cutter homes would be BETTER sealed since they can design in practices that keep everything tight. There's also various ways to build a bank of homes with just a nice amount of variety to make them charming. This sounds kind of weird but the problem here is that they just don't need to so they don't. Its slightly more complicated but it all stems from that. There's a lot of different points where good design or best practice just doesn't get you anywhere even if the cost isn't that significant to the builder. Ultimately any cost to the builder or contractor is a risk so they avoid it. You can't do change orders with the average home buyer either and the bank doesn't care you have an energy efficient HVAC when you get your mortgage. The us gov and state governments do a much better job at encouraging better practice and better appliances. But that doesn't entirely help from the perspective of the builder that needs money to do a good job. Thats why you get things like roofers doing "repairs" when they should be doing replacements as those are better investments in the long run.
@SubStationSparky
@SubStationSparky 2 года назад
Matt, I have about 62% humidity in the winter in the house after many HVAC/insulation upgrades (Central Connecticut) I have ductless mini splits but rely on them for heating in the winter I’m gonna put in a Panasonic Select exhaust fan running 24hrs @about 40cfm in the bathroom (centrally located) hopefully that will fix some humidity issues.. from there if I continue to have issues I will have to install a stand alone dehumidifier like one in your video here.. THANKS!!! Great VIDEOS!!!
@Bugkiller666
@Bugkiller666 4 года назад
Happy new year Matt, the best for you and family this year. I agree with you in some of the stuff but the need for dehumidifier on a tight building depend on occupants activities and having a dehumidifier it is essential. I will never use that unit as a fresh air intake, that it the task for the ERV. By the way what happens to your hair ?
@jochute
@jochute 3 года назад
love the videos. I have posted before but I would love full length "how to" videos in conjunction with the great explanation videos you do. Is there a cheaper way to control the ultra aire dehumidifier than their $250 Ultra-Aire DEH 3000. Seems expensive when adding to the cost of the unit. Thanks
@austinselleck9484
@austinselleck9484 4 года назад
Northwest Arkansas- I’ve seen humidity in the single digits when it gets cold for awhile in the winter. During the summer that’s a different story. Not uncommon for humidity outside to be over 90%. In this case I like the idea of a dehumidifier
@chuckchrystak4397
@chuckchrystak4397 4 года назад
We just built a house and did a handful ourselves including the air sealing. I put so much detail to not miss anything and got our 3600sg’+ ranch with 10’ ceilings in main and an unfinished basement. Got the house to 1.30 ACH. We live in Nebraska so we can see everything from cold and dry and dry to high and humid. I am stuck on what to do. We also have Geothermal, with gas auxiliary heat. My goal with building was to not ever use the auxiliary heat except for if we lost power.
@waltergartner4538
@waltergartner4538 3 года назад
Matt, I see Ultra-Aire offers ventilating dehumidifiers (I'm looking at the XT155H). Would there be any reason to use an ERV if you configured the XT155H to provide ventilation?
@cbulmer0
@cbulmer0 4 года назад
Loved episode. Currently framing and in mid west. Planning hard wood floors and a humidifier. Planning ERV for fresh air, but wonder if a dehumidifier in addition also be a wise choice? 2800sqft
@taforth
@taforth 4 года назад
👌 perfect topic. Thanks I was just trying to decide what’s the best approach for my cottage, that has a 3 seasons building permit, but is used regularly in the winter as well. We have hydronic in-floor heating in 3” slab floors throughout, so the heating system doesn’t dry the place out at all in the winter. Window condensation is an annoying issue, especially with wooden interior window frames, along with drywall returns 🙄. I had an HRV pretty much from the outset, but it doesn’t seem to do that great a job once the humidity level starts getting down around 40%. Recently, I purchased a whole-home dehumidifier, and it also doesn’t seem to take that much water out of the air at the lower humidity levels either…
@UltraAireDehumid
@UltraAireDehumid 4 года назад
Terry - please reach out to our customer service department to discuss your dehumidifier install, or email me at nkrueger@thermastor.com. We have seen some issues with the actual install that minimize the effectiveness of the dehumidifier (no matter what brand you have.)
@coasttal123
@coasttal123 6 месяцев назад
Matt, as a mechanical engineer, I only want one item in a very tight home bringing air into the house. Therefore I spec an ERV for that. I also recommend dehumidifiers for the interior of the home that are fixed in the home and drain to the plumbing system, but do not connect the air stream to the exterior. Also, I pull air from all bathrooms, kitchen, and peak of vaulted ceilings and exhaust them through the ERV. I put the fresh air into the large common areas where no one will sit, since that air may be a bit cooler or warmer than the air in the house. This strategy has worked well in design and works well in my own home. I do engineering in the southeast US.
@mikemcmanaman7634
@mikemcmanaman7634 3 года назад
Very informative, specially if your in a humid climate. The drier states were not addressed though. There are many states that don't have the humidity issues you were talking about. I.E. Idaho, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Wyoming, Montana, Eastern Washington and Oregon And 3/4 of California, basically states west of the Rockies. The ERV seems like the unit of choice, would like a more detailed evaluation on that.
@richcoyne2141
@richcoyne2141 10 месяцев назад
I've been waiting for this info for years ..thanx
@pcfabris
@pcfabris 4 года назад
Love the dry heat.
@samplumbe3288
@samplumbe3288 4 года назад
I have installed hundreds of what we call a mechanical ventilation heat recovery unit (MVHR) here in the uk. In flats mostly and about to do houses. I have retro fitted two into my own properties and saved a load of money on Heating bills. They pay for themselves in a little over a year. They also have a condensate Drain and humidity sensors. Great bits of kit. I installed a vent axia unit in a flat and a Nuaire one in a barn conversion.
@saqaryahmadi1671
@saqaryahmadi1671 4 года назад
What capacity would recommend for 6500 ft house, with 10 ft ceiling? I had different opinions from different dealers!
@fernandog.aguirre2791
@fernandog.aguirre2791 4 года назад
thanks for the educational video. Cheers from Maui!
@nguyentuan3231
@nguyentuan3231 4 года назад
Dear Matt, Thank you for your video. Is it possible to use ERV in tropical climate such as South East Asia area. if we use ERV for our home, do we need to have a separated exhaust fan for our bathroom/toilet? Hope you can help
@stevelinder7975
@stevelinder7975 4 года назад
Great timing as usual! I’m looking at putting in 2 ERV’s and was thinking about a dehumidifier (for the summers) and humidifier for the super-dry winter days (here in Pacific Northwest). Here’s the question: We’re also installing a 60” range with a hood/vent in the kitchen and we’re needing a makeup air system in the kitchen. We’re thinking about having the MU air come out from under cabinetry across from the hood to create a type of air curtain. How do (or would) we tie that cooking makeup air system in with our ERV’s and (de)humidifiers? Thanks and I look forward to seeing ya at IBS in a few weeks!
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
If you have central AC than you need the dehumidifier for the cooler seasons (Fall, winter, & spring). In the Summer your AC system will be removing excess humidity, but in the cooler seasons your AC system is off, so that's when the House dehumidifier kicks in. I suppose if you live in an extremely humid region (Florida) you might need to run both on those really humid days.
@jmart21
@jmart21 4 года назад
Look into the company Fantech. They have a product that is a make up air unit.
@TheLeaversFamily
@TheLeaversFamily 4 года назад
I have a similar idea to yours. I'm going to have the makeup air system come up through the cabinet under the range to create an air curtain over the range to the downdraft exhaust. I'm planning on making a heat exchanger (pipe within a pipe) to help warm the incoming makeup air. This system will be completely separate from the HRV system we will have.
@draggingcrewcab
@draggingcrewcab 4 года назад
Another great build Matt!!! Should Central Texas new Homes also have a humidifier such as the Aprilair 800?
@jeremylourie5270
@jeremylourie5270 4 года назад
Most of Texas is humid enough to warrant a dehum. They are more important for comfort and energy efficiency of the home than an HRV/ERV, because lower humidity let's you feel comfortable at a higher temperature. In Texas, this ballace can actually save money. Have a qualified HVAC contractor run some load and cost calculations to see what your best options are in your area.
@keithhogan6997
@keithhogan6997 4 года назад
What type of energy load do these units put out? I'm looking at being 'off grid' and need to take this into serious consideration. I live in Oregon, the PNW ... Pacific North We(s)t. I've been watching a plethora of your videos and am already looking at ICF, Zip R sheathing, amongst others. I would like to keep the humidity down as well as my energy expenditure. Hopefully soon all of these components will come to fruition with my own build. Thank you for sharing the wealth of information!
@TimMontague
@TimMontague 4 года назад
We'd love to see you cover the CERV2 for intelligent IAQ.
@PaulyDownUnder
@PaulyDownUnder 3 года назад
Matt, if running both, an ERV and Dehumidifier, how would you duct them? Would you keep them complete separate or join them together, does the ERV feed the Dehumidifier or vice versa?
@toomanymarys7355
@toomanymarys7355 3 месяца назад
I'd personally put the dehumidifier on the H/AC and the ERV separate....
@charleswhalen7332
@charleswhalen7332 2 года назад
Matt, how many minutes per hour (or equivalently, what percentage of the time, or cumulative hours per day) does your Ultra-Aire 120H dehumidifier run during the spring and fall seasons in your new 2800 sq.ft. house there in Austin? Btw, love your channel and vids, learning a lot from them in planning the build of my future zero-energy solar home. I’m trying to understand what the energy consumption of these ERVs and dehumidifiers is. In another video, you said that your new Zehnder ComfoAir Q600 ERV consumes around 100-125 Watts continuously, 24x7. So that’s around 2.4 to 3 kWh per day. Here in this video, you said that the Ultra-Aire dehumidifiers consume between 5 and 8 Amps when they’re running (so that’s 600 to 960 Watts), but you didn’t say what percentage of the time they typically run (e.g., in your case, specifically, during the spring and fall seasons there in Austin, when they would be most needed and heavily used). Hence my question above. If your Ultra-Aire 120H dehumidifier runs 50% of the time (30 minutes per hour, or 12 hours cumulatively per day), that’s 7.2 to 11.5 kWh per day. If it runs a third of the time (20 minutes per hour, or 8 hours cumulatively per day), that’s 4.8 to 7.7 kWh per day. Even running only a third of the time, that’s still a heck of a lot of energy consumption for a solar-powered home trying to achieve zero net energy. Thoughts or comment? Thanks!
@gony1211
@gony1211 3 года назад
Matt, do you happen to know what production home builders install to satisfy whole house mechanical ventilation requirements required by IRC?
@JulioCSolar
@JulioCSolar Год назад
Thank you for sharing. Can you specify both maker and model? Also, how about space pressure diferential?
@eaglecot
@eaglecot 4 года назад
Thanks for the video, Here in Sweden the outdoor air quality is good enough that filtering the air isn't really needed. So I stumpled upon decentralized ventilation with ceramic stones that claim to recover 90% of the heat and 20% of humidity. The idea is so clever. It wouldn't be my first choice since you can probably hear the fans in each room. But I would love to see a video about this. Unfortunately it's not really an option where you need to cool and/or filter the incoming air, I suppose.
@belg4mit
@belg4mit 4 года назад
The goal of these is not to filter the air. They have an air filter, simply because they can be pulling in a large volume of outside air and need to protect the equipment from dust and grit, but their function is in their name.
@Zorlig
@Zorlig 4 года назад
I know it is sponsored but I love this type of episode
@NickShoust
@NickShoust Год назад
I feel like in northern climates an air exchange would be great. 90°F+ during the day and sometimes only 40s over night you could cycle out the warm stale air in the house and bring in the cool fresh air through the evening
@1956vern
@1956vern 4 года назад
Thank Matt 💞
@andyreimers9834
@andyreimers9834 3 года назад
This is an older video, but we are currently choking on wildfire smoke in California. This seems to be an annual thing for us. Would love to see how to design for, then use, modern home HVAC systems when outside air is horrible. Thanks!
@alfredotan6136
@alfredotan6136 4 года назад
I live in a country where relative humidity ranges from 51% to 97% and the temperature ranges from 24 degrees Celsius (75 F) to 35 degrees Celsius (95 F). May I use an ERV but invert the intake and exhaust?
@JoeyBozify
@JoeyBozify 3 года назад
Matt which of those systems would you recommend for Southern California?
@certificationtv
@certificationtv 4 года назад
The prerequisite before using the product is that no outside air enters the room. Air gaps in windows and front doors can change the efficiency of the product.
@windyway2424
@windyway2424 8 месяцев назад
Wow, interesting to see an objective perspective to these devices. I live in Europe, Germany and it`s horrible here. By law, all new houses have to be built with HRV, even if you dont need it. We dont have something like a ERV here. Additionally if you dont live at the coast, you will have at least 2-3 months of summer with +35°C degrees and huminidity sometimes is high, with 60-70%. And you just dont have devices to cool the air and get the humidity out. You are not allowed to built your home with A/C, if you do, you will get problems. And to be honest, I dont know if a dehumidifier would be allowed, but I have never seen a home which has one and have not even heard of that possibility here. Next problem here is, the HRVs are built that way, that you cannot turn them off. So it has to run 24/7, 365 days of the year. As a result in summer, you get the hot air blown into your house. And you are not able to get it out. Of course you can open your windows at night, but nights sometimes have 23-24°C, its typical windless in summers here (if you dont live at the coast) , and if your house has 29/30, it may cool down at 25/26 during the night, but it`s impossible to make it any cooler than that. And it won`t last long, because the HRV will start blowing hot air into your house as soon as the sun heats up the air. And of course, additionally you are not able to get humidity out too. I really hate politics here. It`s just a green bubble without any logical thinking and arguments. Because in case you dont live in the mountains, the winters don`t even get that cold. There are regions where it has not snown in the last 5 years. And many may have snow, but only on 5-10 days of the year. The majority of the other winter days will have something between 5-10°C. But they argue because of heat loss in the maybe 30 winter days, where you heat a bit more, you must install HRV. And as a result you have at least 60-90 horrible hot days in the summer just because you have to install HRV, which has to run every day, cant be turned off and you are not allowed to use A/C (and dehumidifier probably too). It just sucks to live here.
@melissachadwick5717
@melissachadwick5717 3 года назад
I have the 2nd model VanEE HRV that was ever made in our house we bought this fall. It seems to be working just fine but when should we think about replacing it? Would it be worth it for us to get a new one and a dehumidifier to go along with it?
@paulthibodeaux1284
@paulthibodeaux1284 Месяц назад
Great video Matt. I have a new home 2600 square foot, in Louisiana, and its just my wife and I. What do you suggest for setting the Ultraaire for venting and fan
@BorisFett
@BorisFett 4 года назад
I really like your videos. I always seem to miss out a bit because i'm in a different climate than you. Northern Oregon. Im buying a 1940's home and making a list of all the things i want to change in it. Looks like an ERV is going on the list alongside a new furnace.
@terrencesauve
@terrencesauve 4 года назад
Dont forget the blower door test first! Its impressive how some little improvements can change the sealing of the house and increase the comfort.
@rromero2924
@rromero2924 3 года назад
Can you explain better HOW these work together? Do you disable the motor in one of them so the motors aren’t fighting each other? In what sequence do you connect the ultra aire and erv? Indoor air, to dehumidifier, to erv Indoor air, to erv, to dehumidifier Or some other sequence?
@darkstari
@darkstari 4 года назад
I'm now renovating my 1952 log frame townhouse. I live in Finland where it's mostly cold and heating is required about 7-8 months a year. I bought a air to air heatpump from hitachi to cool down my house in summer and it has dehumidifying feature build in. So I'm actually going to heat my house with air to water heatpump with floorheating. Also water preheating is done with that same heatpump. I'm hoping to lower my energy useage (moneywise) to about half of what it was before. The house had oil heating with about 3000liters annual consumption. hoping to get around 1500€ with electricity bills
@tweake7175
@tweake7175 4 года назад
fyi using a heat pump to dehumidify is an expensive way to do it. basically its just running aircon, wasting the heat, and your heating system replaces the heat. where as a dehumidifier will heat your house a tiny amount, so its energy use is not wasted.
@terrencesauve
@terrencesauve 4 года назад
@@tweake7175 He's in Finland, he doesn't need the heat in the summer while hes running the mini-split, I assume. This comment made me think that I saw an option on my York furnace to have the dehumidification mode for the AC coil. Not sure how it is to dehumidify more than a standalone unit that we have in the basement, I imagine that it changes the flow rate of the air through the air handler to have less cooling, but more moisture knock-out.
@KeithMorgan
@KeithMorgan 4 года назад
really enjoy your channel Matt. Curious about how you are piping these systems. are they each running independently? I'm hoping to build in 12-18 months and want to do a passive[ish] house in a hot humid climate. very interested in doing radiant chilled concrete floors + ERV + dehumid. I'd also really love to see a video on wall and roof penetrations. I'm very curious about how you go about keeping these tight, air sealed, and waterproof
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
issue with Radiant "Chilled" floors is that moisture can condense making them wet and slippery as well as stratification: Warm air rises & cold are falls. So with a floor radiant system the floor will remain cool but air at standing height will remain hot. Generally you want the heating to radiate at the floor and the AC ducts to vent near the ceiling. The cool air from the AC duct will fall to the floor cooling the entire space. For heat the will rise from the floor to the ceiling. At best you could install a hydronic radiant floor instead of radiant floors, but I suspect you be far better off with a Ducted HVAC system (at least for AC & ERV) if your doing a near passive house then all you really need is a mini-split system. You probably never get use of your radiant heating system. FWIW: My home (not a passive house, but very well insulated) uses a pair of ducted mini-splits (one for each floor - Colonial). Although I do also have a radiant system since power in my area is prone to outages & I expect electricity to become expensive in about 10 years or so. Best option when you have your floor plans completed it so consult with an HVAC engineer to design a HVAC for your home.
@KeithMorgan
@KeithMorgan 4 года назад
​@@guytech7310​ thanks Guy. that makes sense. doing a small one level [2kish sqft] retirement house - wanting to keep heating/cooling costs to a minimum. also interested in a solar array so maybe mini splits is a better solution
@giocondobianchi6557
@giocondobianchi6557 4 года назад
Matt can you do a review of Tesla glass roof titles please. You would be one of this first to review this product, very innovative !
@996vtwin2
@996vtwin2 2 года назад
Great Video! thanks!
@outdoorsue
@outdoorsue 4 года назад
HEMPCRETE! please do a video about hempcrete! I value your opinion and I want to hear what you think about it. Thanks for your content
@jamespatrick5930
@jamespatrick5930 4 года назад
Matt, I have watched many of your helpful videos over the years & really appreciate how you helped me design & build my energy efficient retirement house that includes a HRV. Your use of the word mixing is off the mark, you could use exchanging. Then 2x times you said that the dehumidifier brings in fresh air.
@UltraAireDehumid
@UltraAireDehumid 4 года назад
James - ventilating whole house dehumidifiers can bring in fresh air. Our units provide supply ventilation with a MERV 13 filter, which is typically recommended in humid climates if the home is not super tight. The ventilation can be set up on to run on a timer based strategy.
@greg1199
@greg1199 3 года назад
Hello Matt. I live in Round Rock, next to Austin, and I'm looking for a good contractor to install an ultra-aire ventilating dehumidifier in my existing house. What contractor or HVAC company would you recommend?
@organicvids
@organicvids Год назад
Matt, would a santa fe ultra 125 with fresh air intake b better? Could you run the dehumidifier into hrv or erv then to home?
@diaperdood1
@diaperdood1 Год назад
I got a manual j performed and they said to use a 2.5 ton heat pump for my house. However I already have a 3.5 ton heat pump that has spray foam on the attic and blown insulation on the walls. Is it ok to leave the 3.5 ton and get a whole house dehumidifier? Thanks
@sickre
@sickre 4 года назад
Its great that code requires fresh air coming into houses - I live in Eastern Europe and apartments here are just built as completely sealed boxes. I need to keep my balcony door constantly ajar to let in fresh air. Alternatively some apartment blocks have poorly designed communal ventilation system, which just distributes noise and cigarette smoke into other apartments!
@activechaos128
@activechaos128 4 года назад
🤣🤣🤣
@bigpjohnson
@bigpjohnson 4 года назад
Concrete apt buildings are usually fairly sealed up in order to contain fires, so many buildings dont have sprinklers or fire alarms or anything. I'm from over there as well, and yes everyone cracks open a window to get some circulation going. After living in the US with forced ventilation and ceiling fans, it feels so weird to go back there to just stale, non-moving air!
@nopreceja
@nopreceja 4 года назад
Yes, this is easter european standard. I can confirm it.
@altergreenhorn
@altergreenhorn 4 года назад
You must live in some awkward region/country because that ain't normal only if you live in an old apartment building were was some renovations in the near past but not complete ones
@ElAnvaBar
@ElAnvaBar 4 года назад
Thats a case of shitty building code. Then again if it is from the USSR - period. It is an old defect. Adding ventilation vents in the window frames when upgrading from single to doube glass (if you haven't already) will help some. Now if you then use CO2 controled vents and a heatpump return air - unit. Then you're energy friendly and well ventilated. A full on balanced ventilation system with heat recovery (and summer-night ventilation) is a tough job to build into an existing apartment, and expensive. (Both ways are expensive though)
@KevinLyda
@KevinLyda 4 года назад
In radon areas wouldn't a bit of positive pressure from the roof be a good idea?
@rromero2924
@rromero2924 3 года назад
If you lived in an underground concrete bunker where you need to control the humidity inside more than anything else, how would you insulate and control your air quality inside? Would you use an erv and a dehumidifier? Does the dehumidifier only dehumidifier the outside air?
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
I feel like "dry" is a relative thing. I lived in a house that got so dry my lips would just start cracking. It's really 45-50% thats comfortable. The probably is humidity is really a problem as temperature changes which is why really forced air systems should have dehumidifiers on them. Whereas on a high performance house with plenty of insulation and slowly changing temps managing the humidity is doable in other ways including just venting with an ERV. I question the idea that simply high humidity outside would cause an HRV to go airy at least as a general rule. Even if you lived in a coastal area where you can get up to 65% humidity only a fraction of that gets through the ERV. The problem therefor is that the HVAC is actually just not providing any dehumidification in a lot of circumstances and thats a design problem with the HVAC. if the HVAC is suppose to be a high velocity system that only runs for 30-40 mins a day now you have another problem with an uncomfortable forced air system that blasts hot or cold air at you and no dehumidification.
@modestkornilov7320
@modestkornilov7320 4 года назад
Hello from Russia. I impressed, that you compare this type of recuperator and dehum. There are different types of recuperator: aluminium or special plastic. These types of recuperator more effective! In Europe we successful used them for swimming pools.
@michaelguimarin
@michaelguimarin 4 года назад
Nice video, Matt. Thank you! Question from the higher altitudes. My wife prefers the house sit at 45-50% humidity, but the outside air is 10-15%. Is there such a thing as a central humidifier? I’ve never heard you mention one. And I don’t want every bedroom to have a humidifier.
@daltonmorrison5193
@daltonmorrison5193 4 года назад
General aire makes a steam humidifier that hooks up to your central duct system. If you dont have a duct system you can mount it on a wall an purchase a kit for it to inject humidity in to the air directly.
@johnhaller5851
@johnhaller5851 4 года назад
There are several types of humidifiers which can be attached to central heating systems. Other than the steam system mentioned in the other comment, the others are evaporative humidifiers. One type has a blower and takes air from the supply plenum, blows it over a wet media, and returns it to the supply plenum. The other type doesn't use a fan, but connects to the supply and return plenums for the air flow. This also has a wet media. It should be attached to the supply plenum, with the vent to the return, as this prevents water from being blown into the plenum. I had one installed on the return plenum, and water was always blown into the return plenum. The biggest issue with all of these is that the minerals which make water hard will build up wherever the water turns to vapor. If there is media, it will scale and need to be replaced. The rest of the unit may also have some scaling and need to be de-scaled, particularly the steam unit.
@kimkennedy9640
@kimkennedy9640 3 года назад
I have (2) 70 pint store bought dehumidifiers. They are pulling 250+ pints most days from my 2k sq home. They both are running now and it's 62% humidity in here. It would be in the 80's if they weren't running. I have a pool that gets ground water behind the liner. I'm being told due from the lake the property is on. Im guessing those issues are contributing to the humidity in the house?? Does it sound like I have more issues than what a whole house dehumidifier can fix??
@eliinthewolverinestate6729
@eliinthewolverinestate6729 5 месяцев назад
I may need all 3. But need hrv on my "vent to daylight" and erv because large planter in passive solar cottage. And may need to pull more moisture out of the air. And with the timber frame and masonry north wall and floor. I want the wood to dry properly over time. Plus will have masonry stove/white oven and heater. Which will need to make pit for hrv near intakes for masonry appliances. Slope floor slightly to allow cold air move that way too. On border of I.E.C.C. zone 6/7 great lakes.
@carlcecil4654
@carlcecil4654 4 года назад
Do you need Dehumidifier and ERV in Connecticut or only ERV? Thank you!
@davesavage3579
@davesavage3579 3 года назад
Matt, you and none of the comments below mention all of the dehumidification water being pumped outside the hose, next to the foundation. In Atlanta our small system of 1,400 sf pumps out 3-5 gallons a day. I drain it into a 55 gallon barrel and regularly lug 5 gallon pails of water to my dry garden areas. I'd like to here what you and others do with this flow. Maybe most just run the water line to a drain.
@cliffordbradford8910
@cliffordbradford8910 3 года назад
That's good deionized water. It's good for washing your hair especially if you have light colored hair
@brianroberts9984
@brianroberts9984 4 года назад
Question about installing these units. I agree in the warm-humid areas (I am in North Carolina) we need both units in a house. I have ductless minisplit heat pumps (7 IDUs, 2 ODUs) and 2 ERVs in my new house, but the humidity gets too high. However, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out how to integrate the two. My ERVs have dedicated ductwork, which I want to use for the dehumidifier I need to add. I guess I will need to add 4 new electronic dampers to plumb into the existing ductwork? But then, how do I deal with the controls? My ERV controls read humidity. If the ERV is on a 20 minute per hour cycle, can I wire the dehumidifier into the ERV outputs to open the dampers and power on the dehumidifier for the other 40 minutes? Also, why are all the whole house dehumidifiers 8" connections? Most ERVs seem to be 6"?
@piapple
@piapple 2 года назад
Should I run the ERV 24/7 in northern Canada during winter time??
@Archibald82
@Archibald82 4 года назад
1966 Bungalow 1200 sq ft 2x4 Construction + ext rigid foam ACH of 1.9 Double pane windows No HRV or ERV Heated with 18,000 BTU LG Ductless Split Family of four Condensation issues on the windows attempting to be rectified with an Energy Star stand alone dehumidifier in the basement. Even with humidity
@markrevette1067
@markrevette1067 4 года назад
So this would be in addition to a whole house AC systems ? I am planning a house build in a year or 2. I live in upstate NY near the Canadian border. As you can imagine, a good portion of our time is in the heating system when the air gets pretty dry and people tend to use humidifiers. But then, we do get a few months in the summer when it can get warm and humid (probably not compared to Texas & Florida standards) and many people will use window AC units. I would prefer a central AC system in the new build. Just trying to do my homework to address both extremes we experience up here.
@andreycham4797
@andreycham4797 4 года назад
if your plan to burn lots of dough , buy CERV ll You get more use out of HRV with a heat pump built in in your climate
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
If your new home is tight, you make have excessive humidity during the winter. Dry\low humidity occurs in leaky homes as warm air carries the moisture out. In a tight home that does happen and most homes have a lot of moisture sources: bathrooms, Kitchens (Dishwashers - pump out a lot of humidity), and laundry. if your home has a central AC, than it will remove most of the humidity during the summer months. A whole house dehumidify is primary used during the cooler seasons when the Central AC system is not running.
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
The system seems best applied to mini-splits or radiators. Plus in my opinion the problem solved by combining these systems in the video mostly applies to the calmer of the coastal climates. If the coastal climates were more extreme then it'd probably work the AC more and the humidity would be taken care of. In the more temperate areas of the world forced air tends to be king. For managing humidity it might make more sense to consider variable refrigerant flow as that would be better suited to controlling the humidity as it swings back and forth between seasons. Of course if you have a lot of money there's nothing wrong with having full humidification and dehumidification systems.
@donalda777
@donalda777 4 года назад
Hi Matt, Love the channel!......just a suggestion...replace the word “suck” with “draw” 🤠. Thanks for explaining air exchange/dehum. We will be installing in our next house.
@keltonlowry8844
@keltonlowry8844 2 года назад
Overall a pretty good video. Some really good information if homeowners are looking. You just are incorrect when you start talking about the refrigerant cycle. Outdoor units do not make refrigerant cold. Also you should use the term refrigerant and not Freon. Being you’re talking about D humidification obviously the unit would be running in the air condition mode. The line that you feel that is cooler is actually coming back from the indoor unit. Technically you cannot make cold you can only remove heat. The sub cooled liquid refrigerant hits the metering device at the indoor unit causing it to flash off and change state to a vapor. After leaving the metering device it’s now 80% vapor 20% liquid. The air moving across the indoor coil causes the rest of the refrigerant to flash off and now becomes a superheated vapor by absorbing heat from the air. The cool line that you are feeling by hand coming back to the outdoor unit technically is what is holding the heat from inside your house.
@josephhuether9572
@josephhuether9572 2 года назад
I though -- perhaps incorrectly - that Austin was relatively dry. 40 - 60 RH actually sounds sort-of high to me. When I think of art museums I think 45 RH. In the northeast, if you step into a museum during heating season you can really feel the increased humidity. In the northeast, your AC does a good job of dehumidifying except in homes like mine where occupants are constantly opening and closing doors to let dogs in and out or leaving bedroom windows cracked at night. During the heating season we are left craving a bit more humidity.
@jeremylourie5270
@jeremylourie5270 4 года назад
Matt, Why would the close the dehum incoming air instead of running all of the ERV thru it? Is there any advantage to keeping these units seperate?
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
Probably depends on how much humidity your region has. If you live in humid region probably the #1 source of humidity is from the outdoors (ERV). So dehumidify the fresh air is probably the best option. If the #1 source of humidity is from indoor sources (indoor hottube, souna) then it probably wise to cycle your indoor air. Issue is that your trying to control humidity with the least mount of energy needed. Also some older, leaky homes may to be retrofitted to include a whole house dehumidification system. Unless you can seal the home up tight adding a ERV isn't going to prevent humidity from leaking in.
@Furiends
@Furiends 4 года назад
It wouldn't be balanced if you did that. You can only damper the dehumidifier. So you could feed through it if you used a balanced diverter but then whats the point?
@UltraAireDehumid
@UltraAireDehumid 4 года назад
We typically recommend keeping the systems separate but you can integrate the two. Here is an article we wrote for Green Building Advisor on how to properly combine the two systems www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/ductwork-ervs-dehumidifiers-forced-air-heating-systems . Hope this helps!
@beckysmith7517
@beckysmith7517 2 года назад
Hey I have a question? I have a 200 square foot tiny house with closed foam insulation and because I also use it as a greenhouse in the winter time and of course because of transpiration of the plants and evaporation of the soil after a watering… on top of two adult people breathing, I am getting a lot of humidity in the winter time. I also live in the SW Virginia area so we have pretty humid summers here too. Which system would work best for this application and HRV or ERV? I know both clean the air Im just more concerned with excessive humidity. I see a lot of people in tiny houses using HRV but what do you think I should do. Also I am looking for a very small unit… any ideas there, because its again only 200 sq ft?
@psanta33
@psanta33 2 года назад
If you want to install an ERV into an existing house, and you don’t want the furnace blower to run all the time, what can you do? Can you take the stale air from the furnace return ducting, and then cut a hole in the floor to add a new vent or 2 for the fresh air to get back into the house? I have a single story rancher with an unfinished basement.
@hj8607
@hj8607 Год назад
These unit are adequate for low CFM exhausts as in a bathroom BUT a gas range needs a exhaust hood using 400-900 CFM (or more) by code . You will need to have a independent air replacement ducting in place with a active air flap to replace that much air. IF THIS air comes into the home very close to the range the Hood will actually work . (no high volume air replacement results in Minimal air movement in hood exhaust and code violation.)
@johnguerra5015
@johnguerra5015 3 года назад
Would an ERV and dehumidifier be necessary for a new build, 1850sf.
@bannockchief
@bannockchief 4 года назад
I'd like to see how effective the thermal bridge is. How much does the temp of the incoming air change; 5°, 10°, 20°?
@FreekHoekstra
@FreekHoekstra 4 года назад
It seems good erv’s extract up to about 70%
@JohnWeland
@JohnWeland 4 года назад
Man, I am living in Minnesota and we hit 80% humidity in the house from spring until early fall. 90 degrees in the summer too. Its as bad as Houston (son of Texas here). We are looking to downsize our home, I think I want to do something like this in whatever we buy.
@vennic
@vennic 4 года назад
I'm in MN too, do you try not to run the ac or open the windows at night? Running the AC is your best bet to dehumidify in the summer, but with old leaky houses it's hard to keep up
@JohnWeland
@JohnWeland 4 года назад
@@vennic our ac barely keeps us below 80 inside on the hot days. (Really drafty old house and weird ass ac outside the envelope.
@vennic
@vennic 4 года назад
@@JohnWeland gross man you have my condolences
@tbthedozer
@tbthedozer 4 года назад
Lol I’m a Minnesotan too. Looks like talking some sort of weather either inside or outside is our lot in life. Anyway was anyone else thinking about the dehumidifier in the spring mornings when the dew makes your blanket feel like a wet towel? But I don’t want to add the heat of the dehumidifier after all we like I cool here. If there was a 3rd vent on the unit the waste heat could be pushed outside when it wasn’t needed. And using the damp morning air across the condenser would help the efficiency, right?
@vennic
@vennic 4 года назад
@@tbthedozer I've read higher humidity generally helps with heat exchange. I'm planning to install a heat pump water heater in series with my gas unit for this very reason. Dehumidify the basement more efficiently in the summer, no waste heat
@joey2658
@joey2658 2 года назад
Hi, could you help me solve this question? If my home rh is 70% at 18, outsidw is 40% at same temprature. What will the in door humidity be after several day use? Thx
@quacktony
@quacktony 4 года назад
Matt, anyway to see your installation on these bad boys?
@scottwebber652
@scottwebber652 2 года назад
I’m in the north n in winter window moisture is an issue. Anything from dew to frost on window panes. Definitely have more with higher humidity n less as it goes down but none the less it’s there. How about some feedback on this.
@paulomontero12
@paulomontero12 2 года назад
I have an hrv and in the winter it actually makes my too dry in the at only 20% humidity. I need a separate humidifier most likely?
@Expressiton
@Expressiton 4 года назад
Do they make small ERVs for tiny houses? That unit is way too big for my tiny.
@lastcall8286
@lastcall8286 2 года назад
Thanks
@Karjis
@Karjis 2 года назад
Oh the ERV model looks like the 90's air exhange units nordics have used with this "box shaped" crossflow heat exchanger where air streams are only roughly 50% efficiently transferring the heat. Modern units have long counterflow air exchangers to get the efficiency up to 80-90%. My 20 year old unit is basically just what there is on the left and it was the cheapest option to satisfy fresh air requirements (here it is 1/2 of the house volume every hour) but the energy efficiency is.. well not the best. But yes it has balanced airflows and it recovers some heat / (cool during summer) to fresh air but only roughly the half as the box shaped heat exchanger is .. well cheap.
@ericvanzeyl4483
@ericvanzeyl4483 4 года назад
Building a 3000 sq ft pole barn in Taylor. Was going to just drop in an ERV, but now you are saying it might be better to have both. And with the second unit, close off the fresh air as the ERV is bringing it in? Is there a way you can show a drawing or something on what exactly you are referring? I was going to use the ERV to pull the moisture from both bathrooms and the kitchen only and bring fresh air into the theater, living, and both bedrooms. Any input is great Matt.
@DubReed00
@DubReed00 4 года назад
Eric van zeyl good question and you were reading my mind. Good luck with your build and I’m interested in how the 2 connect together as well.
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
Your on the right track. You pull air from the moist areas and push the fresh air into the living space rooms. That said, I would recommend that you exhaust your bathroom fans separately, so the very very humid air after a shower does not pass through the ERV, because the incoming fresh air will be very humid as the ERV exchanges humidity between the incoming fresh & exhaust air streams. For my home I don't pull from the kitchen. I push the fresh are into the AC Duct system which exits into the Kitchen, living room & other rooms. I just pull & exhaust from the bathrooms. That said depending on your layout of your home, you might need to pull from another location beside your bathroom(s). Your best bet would to get an HVAC design engineer to assist you with the ERV\dehumidication system. The Engineer with provide a design that will work right, and safe a bundle of grief & money.
@ericvanzeyl4483
@ericvanzeyl4483 4 года назад
@@guytech7310 I have vents set up to exhaust each bathroom but not kitchen. I was going to tie in the kitchen with the bathrooms through the EVR. But if you suggest not doing the bath thru it, would just doing the kitchen stove be ok, and maybe theater and living spaces. Still in the outer shell stage, and have vents already installed to the outside. I have 2 vents set for EVR only, 3 for bath exhaust, and one extra to exhaust heat from my equipment room. I have learned a lot from the experts so any advice I do appreciate.
@ericvanzeyl4483
@ericvanzeyl4483 4 года назад
@@guytech7310 one other thing, not doing central AC. Sticking with mini split ceiling cassettes
@guytech7310
@guytech7310 4 года назад
@@ericvanzeyl4483 You still need duct work for the ERV. Plus a lot of mini splits can get costly. You can go with ducted mini-splits to service multiple rooms.
@aannddrreeww1000
@aannddrreeww1000 4 года назад
I dont know much about the difference between hrv and erv, but Matt emphasizes that dryness in a house keeps fungal growth down and generally keeps your house from rotting and mold. While this seems to be true, is it not also true that ADDING moisture to your home's air helps to keep a home warm? I heard somewhere that in cold climates like Canada, where I happen to live, adding moisture allows the heat to be more effectively distributed around the house compared to a dry house. Thus, your furnace doesn't run as long to keep the house at the same temperature as a dry house. Is this correct?
@weekendwarrior9171
@weekendwarrior9171 4 года назад
yup. In Canada I doubt you would ever have to worry a bout too much humidity though.
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