I don't know how many videos I've watched on this subject now but this is the only one that explains what to do and why and how to do it without being way too long and boring or just straight up confusing. Thanks!
Best video I have found on how to do this. I’m a complete noob when it comes to working on my guitar and this guy made it simple and straight to the point. Now my guitar plays like new again so thank you 🤘🏻
this is such a cool video for just 4 mints and made me understod actual theme of truss rod adjustment. Your clarification about acoustic buzzing is so true and its clear up all mistifications. Thankz a lot ESP.
Yall this comment is from 7 years ago, I promise you, it's an ESP no matter how much it looks like a Schecter, we know they look similar, we know the import models are built at the same factory, but I promise you, ESP is gonna show you how to set up an ESP on ESP's channel. Maybe theyll show you how to dress a fret somewhere on here since their QC has gone to such shit in the last 3 years and they want you to do it yourself (you should, its a good skill)
is that who the music is?? that tone is disgusting. I was just looking for a comment that might mention mention or ask what was used for the tone. Nasty.
Im glad i found this video i have a ibanez RG thats a little old and it had a fret buzz on the first fret for the longest time so i decided to loosen the truss rod my self and now every fret rings perfectly thanks alot.
The way to remember it is to understand what the truss rod does: It fights string tension. If a truss rod is completely loose, then the strings are pulling the nut towards the bridge and the neck will bowed such that if you're playing the guitar and look down, the neck will curve away from the strings (which are always straight). As you tighten the truss rod (turning clockwise, like any screw), you will lessen the curve/bow of the neck and the 12th fret will move towards the strings. If you continue to tighten it, at some point the 12th fret will come into contact with the strings, while the first few frets don't touch the strings at all; then you've gone too far! Turn the truss rod counterclockwise to loosen it and the 12th fret will move away from the strings.
One thing not mentioned in this video, I'm guessing to save time, is that it's always a good idea to slack the strings before adjusting the truss. Also, checking right after an adjustment will gives false results. Give the wood a few minutes (10 or so) to adjust and flex.
that little note near the end about a slight buzz is good to know. I just got an ec-256 about 3 months ago and it plays great but there is a slight buzz from strings that I can hear but does not come through the amp. That's how it was out of the box and I have not had it professionally adjusted. Been wondering if I should but it sounds like that's normal and nothing to be concerned about
@3:40 This is actually the best pointer from the whole video. I've tweaked my guitars till I was absolutely fed up with the instruments and my inability to set them up to eliminate the buzz. Plays perfect everywhere but a consistent light buzz on the low E string if i ever flirt with low action. Now on I'm just gonna say F' it and set the strings how I want. As long as it doesn't come through the amp that's all that matters.
their headstocks have been hideous through all these changes. Teardrop/Cockstock was iconic. glad their old school signature players Page Hamilton and Rob Caggiano stuck with that one.
RikkardJ Smith Assuming you don't want to adjust your string height at the bridge end afterwards. If you want to adjust the string action at the bridge, you'll want to do that after the truss rod. Then once the truss rod and bridge string height are adjusted, in that order, intonation the guitar. Also, it's best, in my experience, to do the truss rod and bridge height adjustments with an old set of strings you're about to change. Then, intonation the guitar with a new set of strings. Setting intonation with an old set of strings that have adjusted to a kink at a certain point in the string is going to throw things off. By the way, when you do the string height, check the string height at the first fret and compare it to the last fret. You'll want them to be close to the same in order to have an even action that is enjoyable to play. If your string height is too low on the bridge end, you will get fretbuzz at the upper end of the fretboard, while too high will result in intonation issues.
I have a ESP MH1000 with a string through body that I bought brand new. It has locking tuners and is a great guitar. But I noticed that it doesn't wanna stay in tune no matter how many times I stretch the strings. I was told that backing off the truss rod and tightening it back up could possibly remedy this issue. I never had this problem with my EC-400 that I'm playing in my profile picture. Got any ideas?
Got a question bought a used viper 50 guitar LTD what size Allen wrench do you use I couldn't find her Alan one side to fit that thing all the ones I used didn't fit do you know what size it takes to adjust that truss rod
I get the sighting it in, I do that often to adjust after I've done a full setup. However if I'm doing a full setup I want to know what ESP recommends. I like to use 8 tho on the 8th fret but with the super jumbo frets on my LTDs I usually have to go 10 tho if I'm going to get the action around 1.5mm on the low E and 1.2 on the high E. Is that what is recommended?
Right after posting this I found the manual online. It looks like you guys recommend 10 tho to 20 tho relief then 2mm action... that's way high for what I like but it's good know I'm well within spec. From what I have experience so far, I can get my LTDs well below that without buzz and setup a friend ESP Eclipse (2006 Standard series) at 8 tho relief at the 8th and 1.4 low E 1.2 high E with no buzz AT ALL... Phenomenal craftsmanship!
10 year old video.. but still, whats the EXACT and CORRECT measurement for neck relief on a ESP guitar?? It would ve handy if you would use a feeler gauge.
No that is not a Schecter. You do know that Schecter and ESP are a part of Kramer Guitars, right? ESP makes parts for Kramer guitars; which is where Schecter gets their parts.
@@GTInai No I didn't know that. Thanks. So my C-1 Hellraiser is a Kramer or an ESP, or a Schecter? If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, and swims like a duck, its a Hellraiser.
O.K. Interestedly I was On the phone with ESP Friday I am buying another one.And I brought up this argument..GUESS WHAT..Both of us were correct..I have a Floyd Rose on mine which is a NECK THOUGH The NT version Non trem Is a set neck...WHO THE HELL WOULD HAVE THOUGHT??..So I have to say that this guitar in the vid is a NT so you are correct.
Always remember this!!! Even on high end Gibson and Fender guitars if you tighten the truss Rod it may never go back the other direction! I have guitars that I tightened the truss Rod just a fraction and they will not loosen at all it will turn but it will not put more bow in the neck! the only way is is to put bigger stringS! So make tiny adjustments!
I've heard somewhere that some woodneck is kinda stubborn. It won't adjust easily, sometimes take days or even a week just to make a lil bit adjustment. Since I can't prove it on my own. I take that with a pinch of salt.
Just tried this for first time in my LTD Eclipse and I can’t turn the Allen wrench to loosen. I’m afraid to really force it but light to medium turn pressure is not budging
I have ltd mh-1000nt and ltd mhb-401 and on BOTH guitars i have same problem. 4 mm allen key is to small and when inserted it just too loose in hole (it spins about 1/8 of full turn). Its same on both guitars, nuts are not damaged! Besides that, truss rods are so stiff you really need to use force to move it. Surely I dont want to press it with 4 mm thats seems to be wrong key! I think this is unacceptable for guitar in this price level. ARGH!
я может чё не понял, но у меня такое ощущение будто надо сначала взять длинную линейку и посмотреть прогиб грифа (а не на глаз) потом (рекомендуется) ослабить все струны и потихоньку затягивать анкер, потом натягивать струны и смотреть по линейке что изменилось, я просто ослаблял 3 и 4 струны (на видео видно что они мешают крутить ключ и оплётку 4 струны можно повредить)
me too bro. Love it. Im trying to get the lowest action possible. seems like I got it lowest on 1 thru like 10. After that its too high. I wonder which way I should turn the Truss.?
Don't you need to tune up the guitar before checking the relief on the neck after you adjust the rod? Tightening the truss rod (making the neck more straight) also puts more tension on the strings and you are out of tune. Then once you tune up the guitar you actually need to loosen the strings and so you end up with too straight neck causing buzzing.
Hahaha....TRANSLATION: "I can not understand human, but I have a feeling that one must first take a look at the long line and the deflection of the neck (not the eyes) then (recommended) loosen the strings and slowly tighten the anchor, then pull the string and look for the line that changed, I just loosened the strings 3 and 4 (the video can be seen that they interfere with the key and twist the braid 4 strings can be damaged)"
