Quick Comments; A. The How: You do NOT want the pressure (impact) of the procedure to be directed through the balls of the bearing. Thus, the punch is shaped and sized to press on the outer race, never the balls, nor the inner race. B. What is in the name? Machinists will recognize the bearing fit as 'Press Dot's. 'Friction Fit is like a can on a stud requiring some wiggle to fit or remove. C. Why, Oh, Why: Why only 5 balls in the bearing? It does not reduce friction. It does not make the bearing much heavier. Cost increase is negligible. Increasing the balls count significantly reduces end-play and increases reliability. Thanks for a very good, educational show!
This is the common problem in Eta machines the roater bearing loosen. We do not replace the bearing because that is not available in my country. We repair and tight the bearin again.
It's nice description about eta movement ..I'm very happy when i saw this video's in RU-vid please go forward like this in feature also ...thnx regards....mercybecoupe...😊
Actually it will be easy if you heated up the rotor to make the hole Loos or do the opposite by cooling down the bearing will so it will shrink and fit easily in the rotor hole then as it acquired the room temperature it will stuck to the rotor that how they assembled it in the factory
Thanks again Mark! If I’m making anvils and punches is mild steel ok for the punches? And brass and mild ok for the anvils? I don’t have the tools for cutting hardened steel.
Hello and thank you for your video! I have an automatic watch and I'd like to take a photo of the mechanism. Can I remove the back lid myself or is it better to ask someone at the repairs to do it? Thanks in advance
My tag link Calibre 5 is not holding charge. Even handing winding 300turns doesn't get it going. Manual vigorous hand rotation swings for 4-5minutes keep it going for only 1-2hours? What so you think could be the problem?
Hi I'm really confused how does the rotor actually wind the main spring, because with my nh35a I can see the barrel turn when hand winding but I never see it move when the rotor turns? Is something wrong with my movement or is there something I can't see makes no sense how it could be automatic if the barrel doesn't turn.
I have a quick question, I recently purchased a Certina DS Podium with the eta 2824-2 and noticed when hand winding it there is a metal sliding on metal noise and the crown is hard to turn, and it spins the rotor. I just received this brand new watch last week. I want to get rid of it, I'm not happy that a swiss watch movement has this common issue but the only watch even close to what I'm looking for is the Oris Aquis with the SW200-1, a clone of the eta 2824. Does the SW200 have this same common reversing wheel issue? I dont want to buy up in to the same damn issue. Thanks. FYI the certina is going back to certina or jomashop, whoever is easier.
Love your videos. I have a omega Seamaster DeVille with a 670 movement. Problem is the rotor works and winds mainspring. Hand winding doesn't work? But setting time is fine? I'm not sure if the omega 670 is rotor moved only?
Ok so after watching a few of your videos and others I have purchased a case, dial, hands and an ETA 2824 movement. Bold steps! Before I start on my project I have a few things that I am not too clear on. Firstly how is the second hand held on top of the minute and hour? I can't seem to find how it is secured. Secondly can anyone point out to me where exactly I need to press/screw to remove the crown and stem. Thirdly once the crown is back in and the movement is in the case what steps do I need to take then, for example securing, silicon greasing the rubber seal etc. Any help, direction, links would be greatly appreciated.
OMG where to begin? This fellow has entire on-line video courses clearly demonstrating why there are still actual, real, live classroom schools that laboriously teach watch repair and watch making. Jumping into a video thread and asking someone these sorts of questions is embarrassing. This makes me think of the recent Trump appointee who could not admit having done a single basic legal procedure during hearing questioning (thankfully he had the decency and sense to withdraw his name). "Excuse me Mr. Penske, I really want to get into NASCAR right away. Can you just point out which thingie is the carburetor?"
I have a similar problem on my automatic watch, if I leave the rotor bearing like that will it cause damage to the movement in the long run or not? I don't care too much about the noise when shaken, and in my case it doesn't scratch the back of the case. Thank you!
hello Mark. One quick question, I have an old Seiko 6139 and its winding weight doesn't seem to be rotating/falling as freely as it should be. what could be causing this? I don't notice any woble from the rotor.
Hi there, Do you think if my Breitling with eta 2824-2 rotor feels like it's a bit loose inside it's because of the worn ball bearing or it could also just because a loosen rotor screw? Which is the more likely? Thank you in advance.
Another great informative video Mark, thanks. Would you be willing to make me one of those stake blocks if I send you a staking block? I don't have a lathe yet.
do you have any advice about my 2824 movement seemingly not building a reserve? it seems as though the rotor is moving perfectly freely but after a few revolutions springs and unwinds before a clutch (not sure if there is one, this seemed the best description) stopped it unwinding. it keeps good time and seems fine except the inability to wind itself.
You put Epilome on just the rotor bearing and dry it quickly with a hairdryer. Then a tiny drop of 9010 oil on the end of a black Bergeon oiler applied to one ball bearing and only one. Then you take a round broach that fits the center opening of the rotor about halfway up the broach. Seat the rotor on the broach gently with your tweezers and then turn the broach so that it is horizontal and with a piece of pegwood spin the rotor gently. (BTW the reason for the one tiny drop of oil is that any more than that and the ball bearings will slip instead of roll. No oil and the ball bearings will drag instead of roll. Any of these things happening causes flat spots on the ball bearings and creates the play in the rotor you saw during the first part of the video). (Round broach not cutting broach!!!) I hope this helps and answers your question.
No - see my other video for the bearing replacement on a 7750 and 2892.a2 How to replace rotor bearing on an automatic watch. Valjoux 7750 + 2892-A2. Watch repair tutorials.
Watch Repair Channel I'm sorry, I shouldn't have said 7750. I Really meant omega 1154 which is actually a refined 7750. It looked like a friction fit to me, that's why I asked.
Actually you cannot replace the bearing on the Omega 1154 - the Weight is replaced as a complete assembly. It is possible to replace with a 7750 weight, bolt and bearing with the owners consent as the original Omega part is very expensive.
hi there, thank you for your videos. I recently stupidly went on a few bike rides wearing my automatic watch, and now I can really hear the rotor spinning. could this "wobble" be why it is now so loud? do I have to replace the bearing? thanks so much
always and never I wear my watches operating heavy machinery and only once has my rotor came loose and caused noise. Just needed to tighten the rotor and it was fixed in 10 seconds after opening the caseback.
Not even 1% better than miyota 8215 and charged 100s or 1000s times more than that. Servicing this overpriced crap is expensive than getting a new miyota .
Mark did install this Bearing correctly. You can plainly see that the Punch was pushing on the side of the Gear. The Bearing is located slightly lower in the Gear so the Punch never came close to pushing on the inner race. Mark even comments about damaging Bearings if you use the wrong Punch and push on the inner race.
