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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-c...
Hi everyone, Aidan here with etrailer. Today we're gonna be taking a look at and later, we'll be showing you how to install this Curt custom-fit Class 3 trailer hitch receiver on our 2018 Honda Odyssey. A hitch is a great way to carry extra stuff with you on your Odyssey. Let's say you're going on a road trip, you got the van full up with the kids and you need a place to put everyone's stuff. You could add something like a cargo carrier or maybe like a bike rack to hold you and your family's bikes. My point is, though, with this Class 3 hitch, it's gonna be the most versatile.
It's a 2-inch by 2-inch receiver tube opening, which is gonna be just the best option for a wide range of accessory choices, whether it be that cargo carrier or bike rack or maybe something like a ball mount to tow a small trailer. It's going to have a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, that's how much weight it can pull. And a 525-pound maximum tongue weight, that's the max downward pressure on the end of the receiver tube. So it definitely lends itself more towards hitch mounted accessories like those cargo carriers and bike racks where you're gonna be worried about tongue weight. If you do use it to tow though, just be sure that you check your vehicle and its owner's manual to know what your Odyssey is capable of and go by the lowest rated component so you don't overload either the hitch or your vehicle.
It uses a standard 5/8 inch hitch pin and clip, which aren't included with the hitch, but you can pick up one here at etrailer or a locking one, and most accessories will come with something like that. So keep that in mind too based on what you're picking up. And then the safety chain loops on the side here are easy enough to access for both the standard style S hooks or maybe a slightly larger clevis style. Some measurements to keep in mind here. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening is gonna be 13 1/2 inches.
And if you are using this with something like a ball mount, that'll let you know what kind of rise or drop you maybe need to have a level towing situation, or with a bike rack, how much of a rise and how high the bike rack's gonna sit. And then from the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer edge of the vehicle, that's gonna be 4 1/2 inches. And that'll let you know if you have clearance for folding accessories. So if a cargo carrier folds up when it's not in use, that measurement will tell you if it's gonna hit the bumper or not. As far as the installation goes, it's gonna be pretty straightforward.
This one is more involved than other options available for your Odyssey because it requires you remove the rear fascia. And while that does sound pretty daunting, it's actually not too bad on this particular vehicle. We'll walk you through all those steps later so you can see how it's done and follow along. And if you don't mind tackling the more challenging install, you're gonna get a much cleaner look because the cross tube is hidden behind that rear fascia and the only thing you end up seeing is the receiver tube opening, just poking up below the bumper, so it's a very clean look. So again, if that's worth it to you, follow along, and we'll show you how we got it installed. Starting off the installation, you're gonna have gonna have a series of fasteners all along the underside of the vehicle that we wanna remove so we can take the back fascia off. You're gonna have a couple Phillips head screws, which are gonna be easiest with a bit driver since they're gonna be in the wheel well here. There's gonna be a singular 10-millimeter bolt that's kind of to the inside edge next to that mud flap. And then push pin fasteners all along the outer border of this panel. We'll take that bit driver, kind of tuck it in there, and work these screws out as best we can with the limited space. Now just to the inside edge of that mud flap is where our 10-millimeter bolt will be. So we'll just reach up in there and get that off. And all of these push and fasteners we'll do last. So we'll start on the edge, prying out that middle section, and once that middle section is out, we can go to the base and pop it out. So if this doesn't go quite as smoothly, you might just need to pull that middle section out more. That first one on the edge will be the last thing holding your mud flap in place, so set that to the side somewhere safe and continue around the border of the fascia for the rest of these push pin fasteners. This panel here on the driver's side should actually be loose. So I'll do my best to just kind of pry this out of there. And again, just set t
5 фев 2024
