allen you and your whole crew give me a sane place to get away from the madness.. i thank you all for that....peace... even the chat room people are polite... thanks to all of you as well..
Great job Allen! Thank you for slowing down the camera for explanation purposes. This is very useful. Love the finished result! Glossy wood tone looks amazing. Not sure if you have a video on pattern making, but it definitely would be greatly appreciated since my brain has difficulty conceptualizing cut patterns for prop making and costumes. Horns seem a bit easier, but some patterns like helmets and garments are intimidating. Any help is of course, greatly appreciated. And, as always, thank you 🤘🏻💀
Those look awesome! I love all the stuff you do, and your sense of humor. Do you have a video on building the rest of that mask, specifically those lighted eyes?
omg that's epic and perfect timing as I needed to know this. what spray paint is that ??? I brought the cheap airbrush kit you reccomended and I cant seem to get a flow from them how do I problem solve please
the spray paint is glossy woodtone from design masters tips for the quick change airbrush ; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RAwpO3umOOo.html
Adjust the top of the paint outlet up and down in front of the air nozzle until you get the right height for the air flow to pull the paint up. Make sure your clean that paint outlet well after each use.
Awesome tutorial! Where did you get your eva from? I need to make an evil snowman, approx 10 feet tall and I think a nose out of the eva is going to be my best bet. Thanks in advance. ⛄️
From personal experience, I would recommend something like liquid nails because it retains a flexible rubbery texture when dry. This is not to say that other mediums don't do that but you want to ideally avoid something that dries really hard and inflexible, because there is more of a risk of cracks in the paintwork down the road if the foam moves but the filler doesn't. Test out other products on small areas and see how flexible it is when dry.
@@StiltbeastStudios I do m best to do so at least twice a week. If I could as my job I feel I would be the happiest human alive! (This may be a skewed view from my perspective, but Idk lol)
surprisingly secure. not, also they wont break they would just come off and need to be reglued. id rather they come off in high stress rather than risk the actors neck getting tweaked. but no, they hold on really well.
I'm considering a Jason Voorhees cosplay and I'm not at all a big guy but I wanna add a little more bulk to my shoulders/back to give a bit more of the illusion of having that bulky hunchback stature. What would be the best way to do that without using a full muscle suit?
I'd start with a cheap pair of vintage like hockey shoulder pads. They make retro / vintage style shoulder pads that are not too big, but do offer some bulk out. Then, I would modify the back plate padding by adding EVA foam with contact cement around the should blades and across the shoulders for added volume there.
What is your method to "stop up" liquid nails and Loctite Tite Foam when product is still in the can? I have tried Hot glue, screws in the tube and even wasining the tube and nozzle with acetone. The wash works the best and leaves the can "parts" like new for the next usage but man what a lot of work! The hot glue seems to be the next best thing but I do not keep my hot glue heated all the time anymore when not in use for actual hot gluing (I am in California and the FIRES here have me parnoied ). The Screw in the tube trick seems to be very poor stopper but better than nothing. GEzzz whizzz I wish one of these companies would build a stopper system into their cans. I would pay up to 25 percent more for a can engineered like that for Loctite Tite Foam. I just do not want to pay 1000 percent more for the foam guns systems used in the home installation industry.
