Every engine part changed, still has P0171 P0174 codes Pt2 

So I wanted to give a shout out to Dennis Rindlisbach and Joshua Pruden who, in Part 1- BEFORE I released Part 2, correctly made the call WITHOUT GUESSING and they each gave their data and calculations on exactly how they knew the issue. That’s exactly the point of the channel- to not just fire our guesses but to use data and analytics to determine the issue. Congratulations guys- extremely well done!!!

Many years ago, an older mechanic told me, “A new part doesn’t mean it’s a good part.” Great job with this.

See folks, this is the difference between someone doing something that they love vs. someone who does something because it's another paycheck. When you have professional repair shops coming to your home garage, you're obviously doing something right. Congratulations on all you accomplished so far Matt!!

I highly appreciate the self correction and awareness around the 29 minute mark when you discuss why you ‘just know’ that vacuum isn’t a problem, and then go back to elaborate on it. Very respectable!

Single female here. I just joined your pay site because I want to know what I need to know to diagnose my car issues. I'm currently having stall issues with codes po171 and p2096. I'm loving the thought of being able to find the problem through your tutorials help.

I'm hooked, I love it. 27 years Jaguar tech but so many good reminders. You're doing exactly what we need. I guarantee no one remembers the basics and it's great to hear thought turned into word

Like this analytical approach, and this guy don't ramble on like some do about things completely not about the topic.this is a automotive chanel not a comedy chanel if you get the drift,it's OK to have some comedy but not half the video, I respect him for this and his approach.

Excellent work, Matt! This was one hell of an issue to diagnose, and it's very refreshing to see you question new parts! "It's been replaced" does not mean the same thing as "it works as it should", and it's very easy to forget that. This was a thriller to watch!

As soon as you showed how vastly different the MAFs were, I was already shaking my head.

This video saved me! Been fighting lean codes for a while ( I assumed it was vacuum leak) turned out it was and aftermarket MAF! I am so glad I stumbled across this video, my old fishing boat hauler seems to be better! Thank you for putting this out there!

I love your content. I have learned so much about diagnostics from watching your videos. Thank you for what you do

Genius. Dealer replaced my Maf and put wrong Maf in car. Stft and lift numbers off until I bought property Maf and installed it. Thank you sir for the video

Thanks for taking us along on this . As always , there is a risk of throwing parts at a problem . Especially if one is bad , a joker is now in the deck . Beware of " white box , no name , one size fits all parts " . On general principle , I tell friends with a drivability issue : clean the throttle body , MAF and IAC = just good maintenance . Most times they were never done . And a visual inspection BEFORE anything else .

That was great Matt! It really enforces the need for proper diagnosis before launching the parts cannon 👍 Well done you! 🤗

To be able to locate the faults / malfunctions and repair vehicles today - you have to be very analytical of EVERYTHING - because all it takes is a part designed ONLY SLIGHTLY different and , as you ALREADY KNOW - look at what can happen - VERY FINE JOB Matt , and ONCE AGAIN , thanks for the EXCELLENT video / troubleshooting demonstration you teach / share 👍✌️✌️✌️

Have exact same engine and been fighting lean codes for long time now. Replaced fuelpump, regulator, injectors, o2 sensors and every vacuum hose. Previous owner replaced MAF and it's an after market unknown brand. I have ordered an original maf-sensor. Many thanks for this information! Good work!

Part 1 and part 2 is greatest "tv" I've watched in long time. Has everything. Comedy, drama, suspense. Pure gold. Thank you, sir. Btw I'm in the early stages of chasing these 2 lean codes on my 10th gen F150 (2003). Also your Scotty impression is spot-on.

Fascinating. I was totally engrossed and how you went about determining a mass airflow. Clearly not easy to determine. Outstanding job

I am still waiting for your first failure to fix an issue ,,,,,, amazing diagnostic skills , thanks so much for taking the time to make this video and share to all ! Best wishes for 2023 .

Matt, opening the air box or even not having it sealed completely bypasses the air filter (which has pressure drop). This will change flow though the MAF sensor completely (introduces air turbulence as well), so air measured through the MAF can change dramatically. Hence the dramatic changes in fuel trims at idle when opening or closing the air box. They are very sensitive to flow and location in the air box. OEM is best for these type sensors (knock sensors are another example where aftermarket replacements can have very significant negative effects).

Hey I just looked at your video and it seems that you just solved my problem thank you so much I am happy that you made this video

Wow this is good! I remember on one his older videos he said if you start changing parts this isn’t the video for you! Lol this man is awesome on diagnostics.

Was having trouble backfiring and loosing power at low speeds and even trying to get back up to Hwy speeds today with this same motor and truck. Cleaned my maf sensor and it’s running normal again. I have the K&N aftermarket cold air intake box with their tunnel that looks similar to the aftermarket one you showed in the video. The kit used the OEM MAF sensor though and it’s cut to fit OEM. Thanks for making this an informative video worth watching. 👍👍

Been watching a lot of your videos and learned a lot don’t stop making videos! Felt that happiness when you found the problem lol

Thank you so much for the detailed info! I was stumped with my Cruze and did exactly what you did and you helped me find the MAF sensors was the culprit. Defective sensor.

Brilliant fix mate, I'd love to see the mans face and response when you hand his car back.....

First-rate diagnosis, superb detective skills, Maestro! Thanks so much for your help!

hi matt,, i figured out my problem!! it was the firing order on my truck!! thank you for all your help!! you the man!!!

Always go genuine for electronic parts I say. The computer is looking for certain range of values and dodgy aftermarket parts might not operate within those parameters. When you unplug the MAF the ECU will use substituted values. Great work as always Matt

Another great win for Matt: I was totally led astray by the fuel pump improvement!

I really appreciate your dedication and knowledge. I am a professional chef and not a mechanic I am fascinated to know things. I just bought ford econoline e250 4 2l v6 with lean codes p0171 & p0174. the mechanic without any diagnosis it's 100% head gasket needs to be replaced. he did replace the head gasket & one exhaust manifold . with total charge of $1500. I drone the van for about 30 miles & the engine light back on with same lean codes p0171 & p0174. took it back to him & left after three days called me & told me me it was ready . I drove it for about 5 miles & and again, light engine back with the same codes . the van hardly drives even if press on Gas all way. took back again and left it another two days. and told that he changed the mass air flow sensor . and told if the problem won't resolve the next step is to change the fuel pump. and yes, the problem didn't resolve d and then changed the fuel pump. the van got more power, but the problem is still the same same engine light and same codes. I really got frustrated . I checked the fuel trims, and both banks showed very high 24-23 %. I did not know what to do next. the rpm show is a bit higher than normal, so I thought maybe I clean the throttle body & the idle control valve myself. after I did and checked. I find that the fuel trim on both banks went down to about 15/16% on idle, and the engine light is off now. but if I raise rpm, the fuel trim will balance, and that means a vacuum leak as I learned from you. I did a smoke test. I saw smoke coming out from the EGR valve. I did show the mechanic a video of that & he told me that he already knew about that & already checked & and EGR Valve is fine. now he is telling that he is very sure that the problem is that the intake Manifold isolator bolts need to be changed . I really appreciate your time reviewing my message & if you find the free time. to give me your input on all this. many thanks

Good job from start to finish.

Thanks Matt...I needed at least one more GROUNDS!!! to end 2022.

I've been chasing this issue on my 08 explorer 4.6 for a year. "no, can't be the mass air flow sensor, it's new." ugh. i got so desperate i even changed the throttle body yesterday!!! Back to the airflow. Thank you so much for this video!!!

For reference, a velocity stack and larger intake on a Toyota 2GR can change measured air flow by 30% (!). The ECU has to be programmed specifically for the intake and MAF sensor used. It is another reason that “performance” aftermarket intakes can negatively impact the performance of a car if used with the stock ECU…ignition timing can also be impacted. Changing just one sensor (or airflow through the MAF) can have multiple negative consequences (fuel trim, ignition timing, etc).

Matt, had a problem with my Buick would not start and idle so watching your previous vids and your recommendation was to disconnect the MAF sensor to see if the conditions improved and it did so after cleaning the sensor still no improvement. Went to the store bought a aftermarket one and it improved but still would not idle correctly. In the parking lot I asked the guy for a AC Delco changed it and the car performed perfectly. My long term fuel trims pulled down to normal immediately, just goes to show the importance of OEM style sensors for correct operation.

Always enjoy your methodical problem solving. happy new year, from the UK.

Great series sir. Thank you for the knowledge and right on to you for fixing it

I love this guy. My dad is a good mechanic but damn I wish I can be this guys helper I would work for free.😂

Learned my lesson with aftermarket parts from OR & AZ. Particularly the electronic parts.

I knew an aerodynamics professor many years ago, he used to talk about contracts he did for car companies around airflow and metering. Its very complex and there is little chance of an aftermarket sensor of a different design ever working properly unless its something very special that has had the engineering and testing put into it. The same goes for the airbox and intake pipework if its close to the sensor.

Superb diagnostic service been watching your videos from the UK 🇬🇧 keep up the good work. 👍

Great fix and great job to you sir for figuring it out. Knowledge of system operations is important. GROUNDS!

Great video. This has really helped me in diagnosing and fixing my c5. Thanks for sharing yourself with us.

I too was a victim of my own parts cannon. One of the parts I replaced on my '99 Ford Ranger was an aftermarket MAF. My mechanic found it to be of the wrong voltage. He replaced it with a Ford part. Problem fixed.

In the past, I didn't mind using aftermarket sensors, but here lately most of them have been a bust. Seems like in the last few years aftermarket has gotten worse.

in my life as a mechanic have only found 2 or 3 maf sensors that were bad most of the time when checking and find bad its aftermarket and the factory one that was in it works after cleaning

Thank you matt...because of you I am able to solve my mystery problems...thank-U- & SCANNER-DANNER & S-M-A...& RAIN-MAN...YOU MEN -R- THE BEST-& ADAPT/APE...🤠👍🏻

Nice catch.. I was really leaning towards restricted injectors, especially on older truck that had a bad fuel pump, although most of the time they will cause a misifire or at least a bank to bank difference. Injector P/W is a good PID to look at. I had an old ford truck that had restricted injectors basically even on all 8. Tough to diag even with a flow test or injector drop test. Sad part is that the bulk of the parts thrown at it would not cause a lean issue. Gotta have OE sensors. I won't use aftermarket unless I have to

this video deserve more than 790 👍

I've had two parts newly replaced cause me more problems. Both were distributors. One for an old corolla with mechanical points. I didn't know you were supposed to lube them. It blew up a few days after I replaced it, and I never bothered to go back and look at it because I had just replaced it. The other was an aftermarket distributor cap. Caused random misfires. I put it in storage for awhile because I couldn't figure out what was going on. A year or two later, I'm reminded... and was about to replace the distributor cap again, thinking by now it was rusted, etc. and just before I did, I found someone who described the EXACT same misfire cylinder problem. I went OEM, and voila! FIXED!

Well I hate to say this, but if you would have checked the GROUND 1st.........., HAHA! Great work Matt. I have gotten so much bad aftermarket shit I go with OEM as often as I can. Just had this problem with an aftermarket park sensor. Bought 1 off of Rockauto for $14 because the stock 1 was $170 and the $14 1 was no good. And I love being THAT Asshat! Have a Happy New Year!!

Great work! I've learned so much from you, I need to work on better processing the collected data and I am excited to learn more... Thanks!

I believe the fuel pump was the original problem, but in the mix he created another which "masked" the fuel pump fix. The delay in the pcm correcting helped in this masking between the part changing. Ive always tried to be a tester. I hate throwing parts. And when i do change a part , always, always keep the old one, at least for a while. Also im pretty skeptical of aftermarket parts. I love the way you approach these issues and your diagnostic process. Keep up the good work. One more thing. I definately share your excitement and enthusiasm when you fix it. Im gonna have the same in a few weeks if i find my evap leak on my Forester. Oh that brings me to another, I was watching one of your older videos and noticed you werent so fond of Subarus, yea they are a little quirky and different, i just took a likeing to them for their amazing awd system and reliability. Love your channel. Keep up the awesome videos.

Wow, you are amazing! I learned so much and I love your way of doing things! You are very easy to follow and understand and that makes a huge difference! Keep up the excellent job you do! "U Rock" Thank you and have a wonderful day! 😀

Cause and effect. proof! Nice job!

This is one reason why AM Air Filters and K&N should not be used. thanks for the case study, awesome.

Another AWESOME video, again i had sped up the video to 1.7X above normal, not actually sounded like the 'Chipmunks' but hey brilliant work, Thank you for posting, and the time and effort involved to create great content, keep up the leading edge,,,as ever,, Bless 😇

Great work 👏. The only data missing is that of the original maf sensor before cleaning it.

Cool videos enjoyed watching the fix!

You are correct about the MAF sensor that what it was from the beginning

Even new OE sensors for the same engine can throw you. I bought a new non-counterfeit Bosch maf for my om646 diesel engine and it didn't run right, I ended up forking out for the genuine MB maf (which is Bosch with an MB number added on) and it was fine. I have however had two dud brand new Bosch M112 engine mafs through the dealer, so that's always fun.

i also have a ford and drove it a bit with a bad maf sensor. it has a preset mode aka limp mode and will actually run ok. this is interesting because whatever you had going on with it was ofcourse resolved by going with a set of ok parameters. these trucks are very picky about the air they get. if i run mine with the outer portion of the air flue removed but the maf is still intact it will run rough just idleing. everything snug as a bug it runs great. i once was doing a bunch of testing not just replacing parts. luckily mine was not outputing any gpm and its iat function was way out of wack. i got a brand new hitachi brand and have been very pleased with its performance. the way you graph and analyze waveforms and such is well within my understanding and impressive and surely something more involved than i ever have done for diagnosing. it is a method where nothing gets past you. HOLY SHIT can you imagine how easy it would have been to OVERLOOK the maf sensor as being a problem because "it was replaced". yeah a dirty one was replaced with the wrong type!!!

excellent diagnostic skills it made your video a pleasure to watch. I am a new viewer and look forward to future videos.. each sensor is calibrated to thetype of tunnel it is in so I would suggest it was the sensor not the tunnel

Sweet! This is an illustration as to why we can't assume that aftermarket parts will correct a known issue. Which is sad because a person is already miffed about having to fix it. They just injected a new set of variables into an already potentially complex problem.

This is James Parks again. I know at one time there was a bulletin on lean codes and spark knock on 4.6 Fords. MAFs were replaced without necessarily fixing the problem. Ford created a software download that had to be done to change the failure parameters in the ECM. This may not be applicable in this situation. It may be so old that it is no longer in the dealers database. You may have to find a dealer who has maintained a hard copy library, or an older Ford tech that remembers. It also seems like there was a relearn or "burn" in procedure that required different drive cycles and some WOT operation. I am NOT a Ford tech, worked at GM dealerships off and on from 1976 to 2007. Did more Ford work than I ever wanted at independent shops.

Excellent my favourite teacher. I really enjoyed every second in both videos. And i'll put this to my list of lean condition possible causes (dirty OR inaccurate MAF reading) ❤️🌹

@31:48 The MAF waveform. When you snap the throttle, you do get the initial inrush of air that part is correct. The drop off and then the ramp is caused by the intake manifold filling up with air that the engine isn't running fast enough yet to use. Then as the crankshaft accelerates and the engine starts pumping more air you get second peak. I would expect that second peek to go over 4v on that system with a snap throttle like that. The changes in what the MAF was reporting as you opened and closed the air cleaner assembly is a direct result of turbulence changing the density of the airflow at the MAF sensor.

A great video to kick off the new year, Matt. Wishing both Vicki and yourself a safe and happy 2023.

So all this guy had, was a faulty fuel pump. And by firing the parts cannon at it created a secondary problem he associated with the first problem. This is such a good example of why you need to double/triple verify your diagnosis. And I guess also why you should use OEM sensors, however expensive they are (caveat: especially if you dont have the kit to verify the voltage etc, or the comparitive data of a known good. It's still safer to just get an OEM one to save the headache). 8:05, Dont know if you've heard of this tip, but if you're dealing with multiple clips it sometimes really helps sticking tie-wrap ends into them so they dont clip back.

All I can say is, yes disconnecting MAF allows the car to use it main map configuration in emergency and bypasses true valves that its taught to read. IDK how they do it but its something BMW and i think merces use in those similar years. well done. grats.

I think I was in the ball park on the “installed variables “,though I would have needed more data. , especially on that lbs. / grams thing. It was working but I had no idea if it was accurate and You concluded it was not. 👍👍

Watching Ivan at Pine Hollow and Eric O from South Main, I was suspect of your dismissing replaced parts as assumed good. I believe it was Eric O that said NEW aftermarket, especially sensors and other electronics stands for "Never Ever Worked". There also Rainman Ray saying of "Chinesean" parts, "Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" 👍. Ivan often often had to reverse the parts cannon just to have a good starting place and it's fantastic when the owner has kept the OEM parts he (usually a he) replaced. In this case as I posted elsewhere the original problem appears to have been the fuel pump but with so many other parts replaced we may never know.

I think ur very thorough in ur troubleshooting. As for ur thinking on the sensor, I think u have overlooked the most obvious reason why it didn’t work: it was the wrong part! The person who sold it to the owner gave him a ford MAF, just not the correct Ford MAF! The Triton engine has lots of parts unique to it. I know this as an 8 year veteran parts counter person at a major after market retailer. It was close enough to fit it to the truck, but as we saw the guts were completely different inside, and none of the screw holes lined up! Major clue there…..

had P0171 P0174 on my 96 Ford E-350 big block 460 with obd2. fuel trims led me to a possible fuel pressure issue. the pressure was good enough where it would run fine but under load you would see the pressure drop off more than it should. The van had sat for over a year, and someone had stole the fuel cap off of it, I pulled the tank, found a lot of junk in the tank and the fuel pump assembly didn't look great, parts of it were falling off, socks were cloged up, did a full clean with a delphi cleaning kit, no rust on the inside, installed a new delphi pump and sender assembly, new fuel filter, I also realized that the old pump assebly and the new one, on the connector had the grounds for the pump and sender unit mixed up when plugging into the factory harness. this could have been causeing an excessive voltage drop on the ground side for the fuel pump since the sender ground wire is a smaller gauge than the pump ground wire. I fixed the wiring so the pump and sender have their correct grounds. My fuel trims are now good, around +6 under heavy load, not perfect but better than +25 like before. not sure if it was the wrong ground, old fuel pump/filter or both was causing the issue. But I sure am glad it's running great and I won't have to worry about fuel pump issues for a long time to come. I love the Schrodingers Box channel, I have learned and continue to learn so much from him.

Thanks for taking us along on this . As alw

Lol, the CURSED fuel pressure test shot

when DIY-er performs better than a pro 😊

Scotty, and you have one thing in common. That is you both say "don't worry about it". One thing Scotty always says don't buy after market parts just OEM.

my guess is the customer inadvertently purchased a MAF for the other engine option for that particular year make and model of vehicle. If my memory is correct the intake ducting for the 5.4 and 4.6 is the same its just the internals(ie the MAF and its housing) are different and physically interchangeable but won't work due to its construction. Ford used that style of air filter housing on a lot of its vehicle lines during the production of that truck so its very easy and reasonable to assume the wrong MAF was installed and caused the problem as you said.

I'm very Leary of the shape of the wind tunnel theory.....dagnabit I guess I'll have to fall back on the aftermarket part usage. (Unless of course I want to take the time to customize a way to mount the sensor system......) I'd have to be way down the list of things that need to be done to do so. Great exciting video Matt

Arm chair - WELL, I'm an arm chair 🤨😏 - damn good one too - you are Matt 😏👍✌️✌️

Happy New Years Matt!!! Great job both videos!!!

You’re the BEST!!!!

Pete Meyers of Motor Age did a video about volumetric efficiency testing. I was just wondering if volumetric efficiency testing would be a faster way to diagnose this particular issue with only a scan tool capable of capturing RPM, MAF, IAT, and BARO during a wide-open throttle run. Take the frame with the highest MAF reading and plug those numbers into an online volumetric efficiency calculator. If the VE is bad and the fuel trims are bad, then you can suspect an input problem (MAF sensor and tunnel, in this case). If VE is good and fuel trims are bad, then you can suspect a fuel delivery issue (if fuel pressure is good, then it's probably the injectors). If VE is bad and fuel trims are good, then suspect a clogged exhaust.

Great video, very impressive

Plastic carpentry clamps work really well to keep testing instruments in position temporarily.

My 97 Mountaineer has the same air cleaner clamp setup. I hated watching you fight it, but I'm glad it's not just me... This is the greatest diagnostics channel on the internet, at least of which I'm aware. Especially in this era of unreliable aftermarket parts, proper diagnosis is of utmost importance. It's like post-repair diagnostics are now part of the job just to confirm new parts are even good. Happy New Year, Matt!

It looks like the air tunnel diameters are different betweent the stock and aftermarket, the aftermarket looks to be larger. If that is true, the larger diameter with the same amount of air passing through would give you a lower output voltage. The lower voltage signal would make the ECM think there was less air entering the system than there actually is so it would add less fuel to match the calculated volume of air. Now the O2 sensors would see a LEAN condition, and report both banks lean. Great sleuthing work to find the aftermarket MAF.

Unless a vehicle is like my 98 Ranger (aluminum hood), you can get the fuel pressure gauge to stay in place with a magnet. Well, as long as the gauge is also metal.

Great job Matt👍that was awesome

From the first video , "every part changed" . I said to myself "I hope he kept all the original parts because I bet you all the new parts are cheap Chinese parts".

Appears to me the black plastic housing is for a 1999-2001 which has the performance improved (PI) heads. Probably is calibrated differently. The reason for the negative LTFTs. The silver metal housing style is OEM for 1997-1998. I’d try the silver housing with a new Delphi brand MAF. ( Delphi AF10119 ) I’ve had good luck on these Fords with Delphi MAFs. Stay far away from Blue Streaks and most of the aftermarket MAFs are junk as well.

thank you very much for this video i buy aftermarket Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor but it was on a GM car i think thats why as well not sure just yea anyway thanks for the video

BARO will correct during driving, it calculates BARO by RPM, throttle position and airflow during a near wide open pull. Years ago on IATN I did a post using calculated BARO to diagnose partially clogged cats.

Great job, interesting video!

As an added bonus, some cars have a coarse screen just upstream of the MAF. My own searching around has revealed to me that the screen is there to reduce turbulence into the MAF. Do not remove it thinking you will get more air flow and (of coarse gain another 500 horse power.)🤣

You would not believe it, but I had this exact same issue and just solved it (30 minutes ago) because of everything I learned on this channel! How this issue manifested itself in my 2000 Altima is rather interesting though. It presented itself as a vacuum leak by looking at the fuel trim data. I would get my idle LTFT pegged at 9% but my STFT would go wild before pegging at 25%. What is strange is that the MIL light would only come on very intermittently. The car did however stumble quite randomly at idle. Fuel trims would get better with load though, just as a vacuum leak. Back story: 5 years ago (2018), before I knew anything but I had a generic OBD2 reader, I got a MAF code and replaced the MAF with whatever was cheapest at Autozone. I cleared the code and it never came back, which made me feel good at the time because it gave me false confirmation that a code reader is "fix this part reader". A couple of months go by at the time and a P0171 code shows up, and I of course replace the O2 sensor and feel like a genius when the code doesn't come back for a couple of months, and then this code starts to be intermittent from that point forward. Fortunately, I was not so stupid at the time to just keep replacing the O2 sensor, and would just clear the code and move on with life for a few months until it showed back up and I would repeat the process for years. Years later, I come across your fuel trims video and actually notice this issue with live data despite the fact I am not getting a MIL. That opened up the rabbit hole I needed, paired with a shop that could not fix another issue (which I told you about before). Your channel has been the best ride in my learning journey. I ended up getting the AutoLine Pro smoke machine and checked this car 3 times over before I was sure I did not have a vacuum leak because I was so fixated that it had to be a vacuum leak. Man, that tool saved me big time, even though I did not find a leak since it let me let go of the bias I had of the vacuum leak. On my second run through of your videos, I gave this one a second watch and it was the missing link I needed. It clicked I should use my PicoScope 2204a and do the snap throttle test, even though my voltage tested with a DVOM was in spec! As soon as I saw the waveform, I got suspicious and had the confidence to order another MAF. The MAF hot wire locations/center piece in each sensor are different, and I think it's just enough to present a problem most prominently at idle. I also noticed at extreme loads at high elevations I could smell my car was rich with limited power. I originally chalked this up to a clogged catalytic converter, but the back pressure test both with the pressure transducer and an analog gauge showed I was in spec. Coming back to the thought of this rich condition on extreme loads, I bet it could be the result of the bad MAF. I am excited to test it out at elevation. All of this to say: you are the best Matt! You have unlocked a piece of my life for me that I will always enjoy and that's fixing my old cars. This Altima is getting closer and closer to perfection (mechanically at least). Maybe I will bite off more than I can chew after it's right. I can't wait! Thank you! For your reference here are the waveforms before and after (I love that you drive home getting a baseline because here it is in action!): before - drive.google.com/file/d/1foDUKWHqSOnVhraD8587PkSkhy2q5-up/view?usp=sharing after (a little noisy, likely because the 2204a) - drive.google.com/file/d/1YWkXEiRopR9lSV0zOzO1-3fXRBLFjH1l/view?usp=sharing

Matt, you shine like a star in the sky when it come to drivability/diagnostics and the way u approach the issue u amaze me with awesome thought process and finding the real problem bravo brother and excellent fix HAPPY NEW YEAR and may 2023 brink u peace/health and much more success cheeeeeeers from Ont/CANADA.Georges

No other technician in the world would spend a moment of energy, or give a rip, trying to figure out if the malfunction of the mass was due to the design of the air tunnel, or the sensor itself....... It's why you're the greatest of all time, and not Mohammed Ali, as we've been told