In this video I show you every way you can spot to see if a game, a game box, a game label, a game cartridge and a game battery is fake or legit. There are LOTS of fakers out there, be sure you watch and find out how to spot them!
When i was a kid my mom bought me all 3 of them i played with them obviously. So one summer my brother visited us from oregon and brought me all 3 of them not knowing that i already had them . So i kept them sealed till this day.
@@hipojoe Who would buy them 5k? No one with a normal mind would buy a video game for more than a hundred dollars, and that's only when the buyer feels quite "generous" already. I've always been a fan of old games and will never buy a fake game if I can avoid it, but I'd never buy a game for more than 30$. I'd rather wait until the prices go down, which will be after the pandemic ends.
If you replace the battery, a good idea is to store the original one in the box of the game or in a safe place, that way, if you sell the game, the buyer can resold the original battery.
Some people want to play without a dead battery, that's true. They are looking to play, not necessarily collect. And I agree, this video was very thorough.
If you replace the battery, a good idea is to store the original one in the box of the game or in a safe place, that way, if you sell the game, the buyer can resold the original battery.
Not all Pokémon Yellow cartridges came with a separate cardboard piece for the cartridge. We verified that the first runs of most Pokémon games on Color could come in sleeves as well.
Thanks for this video! Would you say that the second there’s an imprint on the label the game is authentic? Looking at an ebay auction right now for Pokémon Yellow and it’s the USA-1 version so it has the black ESRB rating and has, from what I can see in the image, the number 22 pressed into the label. Do you think it’s authentic? Thanks!
Sounds legit. The -1 means that it was the updated version. There were a few bug fixes in the later version (1 means version 2, because version 1 is 0, or nothing). This is explained in my second video over these games, which covers a few more things to look for :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html
Ebay is where I bought mine: www.ebay.com/itm/10x-NINTENDO-GAME-BOY-CLEAR-PROTECTIVE-BOX-PROTECTOR-SLEEVE-CASE-FREE-SHIPPING/152900342145?hash=item2399921181:g:CoEAAOSwhiZafN8R
If I buy a classic car and the car battery was replaced I wouldn't consider the car non-authentic. I personally would consider the same regarding game cartridges. However, that aside this was a great video.
Great video, I get that you wouldn't like replacing batteries as a collector but for a gamer who actually wants to play the games, replacing the battery is a great idea! Although it's technically not original anymore it is still authentic
Thank you. Rarely do I find someone who understands where I am coming from with the 'original battery'. Completely agree, and you worded it much better than I did.
@@0buffer I had to remove it because it was getting so much back lash (for some reason???) I am waiting for my OG cards to die again so I can make another video. It only takes about 8 years -_-;;; Basically, it only works with the original batteries. The newer 'replacements' will not let you do this. You leave the game on, inside of a GBA that is plugged in, and let it set on the title screen for hours. The longer you let it set the better charge it will have. I have been doing this for years and it is why all of my original batteries still work almost 30 years later.
@11:33 you had mentioned the black 'E' rating was fake. Does this mean the sticker has been replaced if the inside carteidge chip is legitimate? Looking at buying one like this(no box, just cartridge). Inside chip is cerified Nintendo 1998 4 gold sqaures
I was comparing to the box. The game was real, the box was real, but that game did not come in that box, and that was the 'fake' part about that listing. Black E label just means it was a second run production. To really check legitimacy you need to look at the inside chip and/or the imprint line number on the label. 32, 12, 11, etc.
hello, I know this quite an old video but I just stumbled over it and was wondering where I might get those cartridge cases in the different colors, all I see online is crazy neon colors or just the normal clear cases. Thanks in advance if you can point me to somewhere I can get them still today.
Back in the 90's those things were everywhere, I think I got these in a pack from WalMart back then. Now a days the only place you might be able to find them is Ebay.
Awesome video! But the part about the inserts is wrong. Only the first prints of Pokémon Red and Blue have the attached insert, the second and third prints have the removable insert.
Question for the yellow with the product number 12 I see that yours has it right on top of the Nintendo logo, I found on on ebay where there's a 22 on the tail. The e is white and it says Nintendo gameboy is it real?
I still have my Pokémon Red and blue that I got sealed in 1999 for Christmas, and both have the sleeves that pull out, 1st print has the built in sleeve to hold the game, 2nd print (mine both are 2nd print) have the sleeve that pulls out, and there was also a 3rd print that had the black E on the front of the box. I also have a 2nd red that is first print and has a built in sleeve. Again my red and blue was bought in 1999 for Christmas sealed and both are 2nd print with pull out sleeves, you was incorrect on that part. I also still have my yellow that I got with my red and blue and my yellow isn’t 2nd print or 3rd print, but it’s 1st print and doesn’t have the pullout sleeve. Your yellow isn’t 1st print, check the side of the box and you will see your yellow doesn’t say *100% total recovered fiber* as your red and blue will, my yellow says 100% and doesn’t have a E on the cover (1 print yellow has no E on the cover like red and blue) since you have the E on the front of your yellow and it doesn’t say *100% total recovered fiber* on the side of the box, you have 2nd print yellow and that’s why you have a pullout sleeve and you have a 1st print red and blue. I have 1st Print yellow and 2nd print red and blue.
i have a blue and will not be read by the transfer pak. i opened it and the chip is actually the size of a gba game and will not fit in a real gb cartridge (i used tennis). there is no bettery. yet the game is actually blue and saves. but that is what to look for more importantly than the outside cartridge, check the insides. there should be a battery, the cart a full size and should fit in any gb cartridge. please tell me if i'm wrong.
Eh.... I would argue that leaving an old battery in your game cart for an extended period of time may kill the board from possible leakage. I know leakage is a very rare occurance in save batteries, given enough time I believe it will eventually happen.
I love your video! I've been getting into collecting Gameboy games and playing them for childhood nostalgia since my grandma gave me her Gameboy color when I was young. I recently purchased a Gameboy color pokemon Pikachu edition and it has the imprint but it says 34. Is it legit?
Sounds like it. Pretty much, if it has an imprinted number, its legit. I have other videos that go more in-depth with the details if you are interested.
the fact that yellow is the one they made and not green (Venusuar) is disgusting its hard to even look at lol and the fact we then got fire red, leaf green but no water blue is a disgrace...
Is it possible for Pokémon yellow to have an imprint number of 11? And do you know where I can find a list of these production numbers for other Pokémon games?
Yes, that number is legit. Basically, any imprint is legit as no fake will have an imprint. It is not impossible to do, but no faker does it. Here is an updated video with numbers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html Here is a list of known numbers: www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=446212 Here is a video for the known boxes and types: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-19uLLGpi308.html
Any reason why none of my cartridges have any E's on the bottom left? They're all my original ones and the imprinted numbers are -Blue 18 -Yellow 22 -Gold (cant see number but I know it was an original off a friend, still says NintendoGAMEBOY™ and has speckles and the correct screw) -Crystal 3A or something, hard to read
There was a run (not in the US I’m pretty sure) that didn’t have an E on it. The reason was because that country didn’t require a rating at the time. I don’t know exactly where the games came from, but they are extremely rare.
@@Lb-ri5wr My research only went in the US. If you have all of the other features on your card, just missing the 'E', then the UK probably didnt require games have a rating posting on them. I would say your games are legit.
Ebay, and look for ones that meet all the criteria in my videos. Part 2 is below. For unopened boxes though, you are looking at spending between 3-5k per game. Good luck! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html&lc=UgzlD_IsOtwB1FbgGqh4AaABAg
Hi! lately I've been looking to buy a Pokémon red from eBay, a lot of the cartridges don't have the E on them at all, although they have the print run number, does this mean its fake or real?
Honestly, I have no idea. I have had these since my childhood. This were super easy to pick up anywhere when the gameboy was big. It was like finding VHS tape boxes, or DVD sleeves. In todays time, my best bet as to where to find some would be on ebay.
Only point I have to disagree with you on is about the battery. While I DO prefer to be the one who personally changes the battery, claiming that a battery change makes it “inauthentic” is short sighted. Games are like classic cars, without maintenance as they age you can cause irreparable harm. If the battery dies and you just continue to store it that way indefinitely, eventually it will leak completely ruining an authentic board. You’d never keep a multi-million dollar classic Ferrari with its ORIGINAL tires (rubber degrades heavily after as little as 5 years), or its ORIGINAL battery (it would oxidize and gas out after about 5-7 years. Like it or not, if we want to preserve AUTHENTIC electronics for decades to come, then wear and tear items like batteries and capacitors MUST be changed. These items were never intended to last the life of the game. Heck even the game code on the EPROMs degrades over time just because! There’s nothing that can be done about “bit-rot” but we CAN maintain and preserve batteries and capacitors to delay Father Time as long as possible 😀
I agree, valid points. Personally, I prefer to have all 100% original hardware if at all possible. In fact, the main reason I made another video on this channel (how to recharge pokemon batteries) is to help people keep their original in tact. When something has completely malfunctioned and needs to be replaced, then yes, replace it. But most people replace the batteries when it is not needed. Most of the time, on RBY anyway, all you need is a good recharge and they are back in working order.
Hipojoe - Pretty sure game batteries don’t recharge. “CR” series batteries don’t recharge. “ML” series batteries do. They may look the same but they’re not. You usually find ML series coin cell batteries in things like motherboards to retain system data settings even after power off, then they recharge when they’re turned on again. If the carts had a recharge circuit there’d be extra resistors and capacitors near the battery. That’s why things like the “Retrode” game save peripheral are so sought after, so we can pull game saves from carts and then reload them to the cart after changing the battery.👍🏼
Hipojoe Thanks for the link! Another interesting video. But even a quick Google search will tell you you can’t (and shouldn’t) recharge a CR battery. ML’s are the rechargeable variety. I’ve replaced numerous ML batteries in Neo Geo motherboards because when they fail they tend to take out all of the surrounding components if the board sits too long and the battery doesn’t recharge. So many in the Neo Geo community often disable the charging circuit and convert to CR batteries. If you DONT disable the charging circuit first, then the CR battery will actually blow up since it’s not meant to be recharged. That’s why I’m curious to test your theory myself with a multimeter. You seem hesitant to even open the carts, but to know for sure you would have needed to probe the battery with a multimeter both before the charge and after to see if there was any appreciable change in voltage. In fact, now you’ve got me curious! I think that’s what I’ll do on the first RBY cart I acquire!
Replacing parts means youre taking away authentic parts and replacing them with unauthentic parts. So surely that makes it unauthentic, otherwise I can just buy an authentic cartridge and replace literally every part and still call in authentic. Your reasoning doesnt make sense
Is it possible to have a genuine cartridge without the numbers embedded in the corner? If so, what are the key indicators that the cartridge is genuine?
The number is only on original labels. Those get replaced sometimes. Check the top of the card. If it says, “Nintendo GAME BOY” in slightly raised letters and on the back “MADE IN JAPAN” “PAT.PEND.” then it is a legit card.
Is there any difference in the game play when you buy a fake cartridge, cause in my case I just wanted to play some pokemon red and may have bought a fake cartridge
As far as I am aware, Gen 1 - Gen 3 there are no noticeable differences in game play. Gen 4 and onward, trading is disabled and some graphical errors (like shading effects on over-world) are glitched up. If that doesn't bother you, then fakes are a cheap alternative, as long as you know they are fake and you don't buy/sell them as real. Because, you know, that just isn't right.
Doing a google search for 'CGB-APSA-USA' shows no results. Also, the CGB in the first portion stands for 'Color Game Boy'. This label was only give to Gameby Color games, which, as far as pokemon goes, is only generation 2. I would assume that if you have a yellow cart with 'CGB-APSA-USA' on it, it is fake.
Great video. I feel like the battery is not a big deal since you want to be able to play the games as well. They are authentic, just got new juice. Save the old battery just in case.
I have a very special case, I guess. I own a GBC Red Edition, which I got as a Christmas present around 1998/9. The cartridge itself has all the stuff that it should have ("GameBoy Color TM" on the top front and "Made in Japan" + "PAT PEND." on the back). BUT: I can't find any production number and the sticker says "MODE in Japan" instead of "MADE in Japan"... As far as I know my parents got this game from Toys'R'us back in 1999. So it can't be fake?! I already messaged the Pokemon Company, they told me to contact Nintendo, which I also did. Nintendo requested to send detailed photos of the game cartridge in order to "check this internally". After a while I received an email that they CANT TELL if my game is fake or not... Btw: It's a German Edition so there might be some differences according the sticker, but WTF is "MODE in Japan"? :D I've contacted Nintendo to see if it could be some rare mis-production, but as I said above, even they cant/wont help me in this case :(
If you can, post some pictures of it here: www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=446212 I am comprising a list of all known cart numbers. Someone would better be able to see it and help there.
I hope you can answer this asap as I have a problem with my Pokemon blue sticker. The game is authentic as my big brother has owned it since new, and now he gave it to me. The sticker is really worn on top where its been sticking out of the GBC game slot for years (the game was actually stuck inside the slot with dirt) I've cleaned the game and the system up and ordered a new sticker, but now I don't know if I should replace it as it still has the original number 11 printed on it. I'm not planning on selling it though as it is a fun game, back light could be nice on the GBC but hey, that was how u played handhelds in the past. The game is European, with quite a different labeled sticker on it, the texts on the sides are different and it doesn't have the US age-rating system on it. I also have my own childhood game, Pokemon Sapphire, with the same issue.
A good rule of thumb is that if it has a production line imprint then it is real. If it does not, then you might be dealing with a fake, or a fake with a new label. Check the 4th video I have to verify further.
Hey question I bought a yellow cartridge says made in Japan on back✔️ says Nintendo game boy on front✔️ has Imprint number on it ✔️screw is in right place✔️ but the ‘E’ on the cartridge is is black is it real? Please man need your help
I think that is the ID for the black 'E' rating game manuals. When the logo for the rating changed they had to reprint everything. If I am not mistaken the -1 means its the same product, just and updated version.
The one thing you didn't mention that I kind of wish you had is to make sure the inner parts of the game are authentic. People buy broken and not working versions and replace the boards inside with boards preloaded with ROMs and you'd never know if you don't open it up. You should make sure to do that check before paying a lot. You'll need the "nintendo screwdriver" to take the screw out
Sorry, that is something that I am not going to cover. I personally do not want to take my carts apart. I do strongly advise to make sure to look for tampering before purchasing though. Make sure the screws do not look like they have been stretched or scuffed and there are no scratches around the screw holes.
@@hipojoe so you mentioned and showed how people replace batteries but won't even mention how some people replace circuit boards? I'm not saying you have to take your carts apart, but if you're buying secondhand that's definitely something people should be aware of
@@hipojoe It takes like 10 seconds to take your carts apart.. it's the easiest way to tell if the game is authentic or not, taking a cartridge apart doesn't mean it's fake. looking at the screws doesn't mean anything.
@@omniferousswan593 You are missing the point. I am not trying to tell you if the cart you currently have is fake, I am trying to inform you of what to look for if you are wanting to buy. There are plenty of other videos out there that cover what the inside of the cart looks like, but hardly any about the outside. When someone is selling a fake cart people do not show the inside, they only show the outside. In a later video I will cover what the inside looks like though. I have obtained some carts just for this upcoming video.
@@hipojoe Who goes to buy a game cart and doesn't open it before buying it? 😅 That's the most important part. I mean i guess you could weigh it if you have a precision scale.
what about game cartridges with Nintendo authenticity sign? there are some cartridges that has the number implemented in the sticker but also have Nintendo authenticity that I'm not sure if supposed to be there
The European version of the games do not have the ERSB, instead they have the Nintendo stamp. If the label has the imprint, you can pretty much guarantee that it is a legit label.
I got Blue from an estate sale for $10. Everything looks legit. Has the number stamped on cartridge. Manual has same code you showed. ESRB logo matches yours. Only thing is mine has the white cardboard inside for the cartridge. Like same one Yellow has. Feel like mine is still legit. Would be weird for everything else to be real except that one thing. Or maybe original owner just swapped inside with another GB game?
I have read that some games came with that white insert, however, from my experience, I personally never purchased one from a store that had one in it, other than Yellow. All of the versions I purchased in the 90's had the built-in cardboard holder, not a sleeve. However, this might be legit. Just because it was never in the ones I purchased, doesnt mean it wasn't in any of them. My point in the video was that it is much easier to fake one that has an insert instead of a built in holder.
Um... you don't recharge the coin cell in these games. That is unless you enjoy your pokemon game smoking, squirting battery juice everywhere, and potentially catching fire.
I've seen instances of a legit label/cartridge but fake board inside, hopefully when my silver arrives it isn't like that. I got it from a shop that sells vintage stuff but I don't have a security screw driver to check the inside. Hopefully the battery isn't dry either.
Mine has 2 0 and I can’t find anything about the production numbers on the internet except for the fact that the number itself is irrelevant. I’m not saying I’m right, if anyone could recommend a source or two?
I have started a list on the Pokemon Community Forum here: www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?p=10306186#post10306186 As of now, there is no complete list of all production numbers. You are correct, the production number means nothing other than the label was produced in a factory on that production line. But, that is verification that it is legit as after market labels will not have that stamp on it.
whats up! i have some questions, I have my Pokemon yellow since they come out, But my Bow dosent hace the ESRB simbol in the box, the cartridg is a White E label and it came with all the papers in it. the manual is U/DMG-APSE-USA-2. This is a real game? i repeat, its my original game since 1999 i open the brand new game by my self and it was purchase in a oficial store!
There were a rare few US copies of the game that shipped without the E on the box, but most of the game boxes without the ESRB rating are from other countries. If you purchased the game back in 1999, wrapped in factory sealed plastic from a main distributor, then yes I would say you have a 100% legit copy. If you purchased it second hand, it would be possible for the person to have a repo box (which wasn't/isnt uncommon). The number on the manuals had different runs, earlier builds and later builds with bug fixes. DMG-APSE-USA and DMG-APSE-USA-1 are the ones I know of. DMG-APSE-USA for the white E, DMG-APSE-USA-1 for the black E. I have never seen a number of DMG-APSE-USA-2, but that doesnt mean that it isnt real. DMG-APSE-USA-2 would mean that it was produced after DMG-APSE-USA-1, however the 2 would also mean that the game should have a black label (as the logo changed to black with 1). To verify if the booklet and game match check this number on the manual. It should match the number in the gray rectangle on the label. If those numbers match, I would say that your game and booklet came from the same production line and was shipped together. All that being said, my experience with the games is US copies only. Other countries used different methods, so it could be totally different in other areas of the world.
@@hipojoe well thaks for the information! I do a little reserch and yes, ther are few copies with the E in the box, and Yes i bought the game in 1999 factory seal from a main distributor, So my Pokemon is original XD and the cartridg have Nintendo in the mother board! Back in the day In México we recibe the same games from USA, same box, book, rpomotions and game! if you want pictures of the game and box send me a message in facebook Bitcrusaders facebook.com/Bit-Crusaders-105789954132297/ Greatings
Batteries degrade over time, "recharging" can possinly damage the board and components further. Changing the battery does not change authenticity, I can see an argument that it changes "original" since that would entail all original parts, but it is still an authentic game and nothing has been changed.
Hey can you help me find red/blue/green on eBay authentic? Just the carts no box needed - and a working battery if possible? Would really appreciate an eBay link or something. Thanks for the vid - liked and subbed
@@hipojoe thanks could u please edit thia video at the end and tell them to check out that video i sold my old pokemon games and the buyer told me this it was fake and to check this video out
REPROS CANT CONNECT TO POKEMON STADIUM SO CHECK THAT IF YOU CAN TOO (MINE CAN) AND ALSO MY BLUE HAD PRODUCTION NUMBER 41 AND A BLACK E PLUS THE NINTENDO GAME BOY tm CARTREGE BUT I HAVENT CHECKED THE INSIDE BUT I WILL
I released an updated video that shows this. 20 is a legit number (from my research). Please see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html
I made it. A shadow box from Walmart, cardboard for the backing, black construction paper to cover the cardboard. Badges can be bought on Amazon, the figures can be bought on eBay
@@joelsaravia1629 it will have the production number if it is a legit label. No cart would have been sent out of the factory without the label imprint. (sorry, I was on the wrong account)
Also you could check the back side of the pcb if Nintendo is there then it is 1000000000% original if not then is is fake I have seen fakes suing original cartridge shells but inside (pcb) is fake
Could you direct me to the video for recharging the game batteries? Was just curious on how to do it in case I decided to buy an authentic game in the near future
I am in the process of making a new video. The old video, I had some incorrect information that I shared about the inner workings of the carts and people started trolling it calling it fake for that reason (even though I showed proof of it working). Basically I am waiting for my carts to die again so I can re-record.
It sounds real. Here is an updated video that list all production numbers (that I could find anyway) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html
Hi I hope you are still Active. . I was searching to An Answer about My Pokemon Gold I bought it in year 2002. . It has the Code in Front A saving Battery bout It is Half of the motherboard I often see the Fake ones also half motherboard bout No battery for Saveing bout Mine at the Back of the Motherboard it has a Date 2002-10-6 and if you start the game it say Pokemon Gold Pocket monsters and I find out that the Japanes version Are in the same Screen with Pocket Monsters I Hope you can help me I'm sure I have a unique Version I just what to know if it's fake or real I bought it way back 2002 I can send some videos or pictures I hope you can hlp me😔 From PHILIPPINES
Just Discovered My Pokemon Green is unofficial. I have all of the cartridges of Pokémon. Just bought the green one, not knowing it never released internationally. Though the hack is good, For the sake of your video, I just discovered that my Pokémon yellow is a fake one.
I had to remove this due to so many people saying it is fake when clearly it is not. I am waiting for my batteries to die again so I can re-upload. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZXrEh3c2lyQ.html
I bought a copy of Pokémon Red on a flea market 4 years ago for 5€. I'm so happy to see that it's actually an authentic copy. The guy who sold it to me probably had no idea of its value.
They werent worth much back then , they wer lumped in with all the other old tech being outdated . Thats how i got a real copy of pokemon yellow for 30$ as a kid lol
Sounds legit. I released a part 2 that covers most of the numbers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qxdg6lX99uw.html&lc=UgzlD_IsOtwB1FbgGqh4AaABAg
Just because a real box that’s missing the esrb rating is matched with a real game that has the black E in the esrb doesn’t mean it fake. You should preface that when you say such things.
Its easy! You just say it ;) Oh, and as someone who did grow up with it during its heyday, parents called it 'pokey-mans'. No one ever called it 'poke-kay-mon'. That was a trend that came later.
Here is a current list of known numbers. I started this list because there was no list on the internet at the time. As of now, I think this is still the only list online. www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?p=10306186
Well, that just means I wouldn't buy your "100% Authentic" car. Just like I said in the video. "I" would not think it is "100% Authentic". Also as I said in the video, it is a personal preference. Once something is replaced by an aftermarket part, or not replaced by a person licensed to do so, it is not running 100% authentic parts. It is no longer original. Again, again, that is a personal preference.
@@hipojoe I understand your preference. But batteries are supposed to be changed and taken out. Going back on the car example. If you replace the batteries of a tesla, is the tesla not authentic anymore? Anyways I'm pretty sure you can't/should not "recharge" non-rechargable lithium batteries to much or they can explode.
Batteries in a Gameboy game were never meant to be changed. And most of the time they are changed because people want to, not because it is needed. And, almost always by people who are not certified to do so. If Nintendo replaced it, then sure, it would be no different than taking your tesla to the dealership and getting it worked on. For the car example, car batteries are made to be changed out. That is why they are accessible to the user and why there are detailed instructions on how to do so in the owners manual. It is standard maintenance. Gameboy games, never tell you to replace the batters and the manuals never explain how to remove the security screws, unsolder the board, replace the battery and reassemble. You are also comparing apples to oranges. The battery in the game is connected directly to the motherboard of the game, something that can be very easily screwed up. A car battery is not. It would be about the same as replacing a soldered component on the motherboard of the tesla’s control computer. I don’t think tesla would be happy about that, nor the future person buying a used ‘100% authentic’ tesla thinking that everything is as it was when it left the factory. Nintendo did have press release in 2010 (I think) that let everyone know GSC’s game batteries were going to fail. They followed up by saying they (Nintendo) would replace anyone’s battery if they wanted to ship their game back. Such a thing has never happened for RBY because 99% of the time, you will never need to do so. Recharging the games are not like most people think. The batteries are made to slightly recharge when they are being played. It is just normal use. If you find a dead battery in a RBY game, chances are the game hasn’t been played in several years, or even a decade. Just turn the game on, let it play for a few hours and you can save again. That’s it. It will work, and I have done it several times. They will keep that charge for years afterward too. My point is, ‘I personally’ do not want to have something tampered with that wasn’t intended to be tampered with, especially by someone not registered or certified to do so. I completely disagree when people sell them ‘100% original’ when it is not, but again, it is a personal preference.
Ebay. Here is one complete. Great price for the condition! Or you can buy just the cart for 30-45 www.ebay.com/itm/POKEMON-RED-VERSION-Authentic-Game-Boy-Charizard-Complete-In-Box-NOT-Sealed/124440123822?hash=item1cf93599ae:g:1-EAAOSwmjxfsHmq
@@cookiedachi Anything can be faked, but you really need to focus on how difficult/risk/rewarding it would be to fake it. It is extremely difficult to fake that imprint, to the point where most people would bother, wouldnt have the ability or resources to do so.
Not 100% accurate. The original first run of Red and Blue had the built in insert. Subsequent print runs had the removable inserts in Red, Blue and Yellow.
Where can I buy games like these reliably it’s seems so weird that no where has these games I have a gba so and just wanna play all the games and get my certificate
The easiest way to get these would be on the 3DS remake download for the Nintendo shop. That way you can transfer the pokemon to the newer games. If you want the original games, Ebay is your best bet. But they have raised in price, a lot. You can look at spending $30-$60 USD for a legit copy of one of the games without a box. If you want a box, you are going to be spending $150-$350 USD depending on the condition.
Here is a set of three in OK condition for $125 USD www.ebay.com/itm/Pokemon-Red-Blue-Yellow-Version-Nintendo-Game-Boy-AUTHENTIC-Lot-Good-Batteries/233694483497?hash=item366946d429:g:43MAAOSwWMBfSFXH
Technically still original unless you are buying it to collect, people most likely are buying the game to play you can't really play it if the battery is dead cause you won't be able to save. And soldering on gb gbc battery isn't all that difficult you have a lot of room to work with unlike the gba carts. Unless nintendo is doing factory battery replacements you just gonna have to go with it.
