Great video. I installed a tub about 10 years ago that claimed to not need a mortar bed; big mistake. The bottom has been getting lumpy and uneven and it started leaking out the bottom a few days ago. Putting a new one in and adding a mortar bed even though this one claims it's not necessary either. Your video told me everything I need to know. Thanks!
Thanks Tom, great information. Sorry for the critics!!! Somebody might tell them what they should already know, that each job has it's own peculiarities and they are welcome to take what they like and leave the rest. You had no intention of covering every conceivable problem. Everything you covered was well done and valid information. Aquatic is lucky to have you.
I've seen some recommendations that when using mortar you should consider putting a layer of plastic over it so that it doesn't adhere to the tub, which allows for removal if problems arise.
Next, modified, low shrink grout is a good choice if you have lots and lots of time to let it cure. It can take a week or more for it to cure enough to support the weight of a tub. Plus it is extremely expensive at $27.00 a gallon and you need 4 or 5 gallons to set a tub.
Great info, thanks so much!! My tub will be a remodel (on a slab), so the on-edge tip is very helpful. I would LOVE to know what style tub that is, with the higher short wall. :)
While I would agree with almost everything you have said, there are a couple of issues that people need to be aware of. The choice of plaster of paris might be a good choice if you can work extremely fast. It sets up hard in 15 minutes. I don't know too many people who can mix it up in sufficient quantity and place it under the tub, then set the tub in 15 minutes. Even in your video, your plaster of paris was at the 15 minute mark.
Yep... unless you are a Pro and used it many times before... Plaster of Paris sets up way to fast for the average DIY'er. The danger is... if it sets up before you can get the tub in place and pushed down and perfectly level you'll be pulling the tub back out and chipping it off the bottom of the tub which can actually damage the underside of the tub trying to get it off. Thin set/mortar has a longer working time. Put down the mud, press down on the tub... get it nice and level then then stop moving it around. If the tub is not cast iron... then ideally you'll should try and get it level "without" climbing into the tub to set it. The reason being ... "some" lighter weight tubs flex. Climbing into them can press the mud down too far so when you climb the material springs back up leaving a gap between the bottom of the tub and the mud. In any event, after setting and leveling your tub wait a full 24 hours before climbing into it to set wall tile, finish plumbing etc. FYI: Some manufacturers state not to use cement or mortar of any kind to set a tub. Primarily this is because the chemicals in "some" products (depending on which one you use, cement, mortar, ready mixed thinset etc)... can interact with the underside structure and cause the tub to discolor / stain over time. Regardless of the manufacturers warning... a solid base under the tub is the best way to go. Even when a manufacturer says its okay set the tub in mortar etc, one way to prevent the possibility of staining or discoloration... is to put the mud down on the floor then cover it with 2 mil plastic (i.e plastic drop cloth), then set the tub on top of the plastic and work it into place. Besides providing a barrier between the compound used and the bottom of the tub... it also makes future removal of the tub much easier.
excellent video,you mention using construction adhesive to secure board to tub,I thought petroleum based products were not used as they may degrade the acrylic surface,secondly the end view of tub being bedded ends up with the supporting feet along the back wall up in the air,are they not supposed to rest on floor? thanks
Lastly, the best overall choice for DIYers is mortar. It sets up slow, but not to slow, and it will support the weight of an elephant after it has cured. While you will need a jack hammer to remove it, honestly though if you do your homework dotting all the i's and crossing the t's before final installation then the tub when set will last for many years to come without the need to possibly have to reset a tub. My two cents worth from experience.
I was given a tube with what appears to be waffle looking styrofoam that in under most of the bottom of the tub. Tub measures 46x60. It sits in a frame.
The installation manual for the Aquatic Acrylx tub says no support is required. Does this mean I should not use plaster of pairs or does it mean I don't need to, if I choose not to? Is it best practice to use plaster to improve the installation?
This type of material use for installation can cause flex in the fixture thus causing the fiberglass tub to crack over time and leaks. mortar is the way to go. These quick build guys are using this in California and its a big problem and head ache for consumers like myself.
When installing a 2 piece Aquatic tub shower - 30 X 60 X 72 can you install the 1 piece shower surround in a 60 inch opening? You went over how to get the tub in the 60 inch opening but how about the 1 piece shower surround.
Hi Merritt,Good question. With an Aquatic 2 pc unit, the walls are separate from the tub, so you will have a Wall section that is 60x30...but you will need to slide that into the bathroom and then TURN it, so really your critical dimension is from the front corner to the apposing back corner (approximately 67"). If you are able to accommodate the turn, then you are good. I have to say, There are many other options, if you don't mind going to a 3 or 4 pc unit that might make it a little easier. Sometimes, there just isn't the room to turn (pivot) in the bathroom. Sorry I don't have a perfect little trick for this one.
What depth is the tub in the video? We are planning to install a 20" soaker tub in an exiting 60" alcove with finished walls on outside of alcove walls and wondering if your technique will work for the 20" depth. thanks
Hi Tom Your video explains a lot. I have a question for you. Before setting the tub in place. Do you have to put 2"x 3" bracing on the studs for supporting the tub. Also should I be putting 3 pcs in total or just the one along the 5 foot wall? Thank You
Hey I baught an aquatic 30 by 60 tub I baught walls that where 30 by 60 an they hug off over 2 inches what walls can I buy for it? If you respond thank you so much ima plumber an I usually but the same brand tub as the walls but my boss baught it an I need to go back an install the walls an I’m at a loss of what to do this never happens thank you in advance:D
Do you have a suggestion for a tub that is already installed and the dry wall is up...I'm willing to cut the dry wall on both ends of the wall in try and put something under it...I'm looking for the issues that I need to think about once I start and any tips that would help(make it less frustrating)...the tub squeaks and I know that eventually it will split/break...I want to try and prevent this. Thanks.
Sorry for such a late response! If you are OK with opening up the drywall, then look for a high- or medium-density, low rise foam. You may want to add boards where the gap is greater than 1” between the floor and tub bottom. Do your best to get the material down the center (front to back), to give the most support. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations of the foam, but I wouldn't step in the top for a good 12 to 24 hours to let the foam cure.
A couple of questions...we just bought the 4-piece Aquatic A2 tub/surround system for a remodel. The HD guy said we can actually install the surround right over the existing tile that is in place over the old tub (that we're taking out). He said the tile actually forms a really durable wall surface and is just fine to screw into. Do you know if this is ok?? It would sure save a lot of time and hard work if we don't have to remove the old tile but I don't want to have a horrible outcome either! Also, neither the HD guy nor the box mentioned having to put mortar/thinset under the tub. Is that required in this kind of system? It says it is a "self-leveling" tub. Thanks ahead of time :)
Hi Kellie, In general, I would have to say NO, you can not install on top of the tile. With that being said, the 'pocket' needs to be of proper size and a consistent dimension for the Nailing Flange to sit against. Although the unit is designed to install to Studs, there are many applications where the unit is installed against drywall, or sheet rock, as in the case of a 'fire' rated wall and/or basement application. So, as your tiled walls sit now, if the unit can fit inside those dimensions, then it is possible...if you do, you will need to take a few other steps. I would Predrill the unit and the tile and add anchors (plastic inserts) to the tile. Again...although it might seem easier, I would still suggest stripping the tile and without actually looking at your job, this is the best I can suggest. Hope this helps
Sorry, forgot to answer your other question. It is a Best Practice to bed the unit, however, it is not necessary for warranty. The reason it is recommended is because it just gives an added layer of protection. It really isn't that much time or expense...and I always do it with my own DIY projects.
The compound shown around 6:47 is different colours... is that just the lighting playing tricks on the camera? Or did you use different compounds for some reason?
All these videos and nobody uses structolite. There is nothing better to use under tub it doesn't expand or contract. Mortar can only be used up to 2" not my choice ever.
So much easier when you don't have to deal with pre-existing pipes, electrical or drywall 🤦 how about show a video of a bathroom install with finish textured drywalls, pipes, electrical lines and a toilet 🤷
What the hell is with everybody with this "ACROST" nonsense? This is the third video I've seen where they talk this way. Drives me nuts...that and "heighth", don't know what that made-up word is. Must be used by the "Valentimes" and "Happy New YEARS" people!
