I have to disagree that BMW (or any other) inline sixes feel like Rotaries. But mostly because I'm super picky. Rotaries and Inline sixes are my 2 most favorite engine configurations, and they do both keep revving and they are both very smooth. They're just smooth in different ways. Inline sixes just always, always feel more torquey and luxurious. But they never feel as frantic or as rev happy as the rotary. OK maybe an E46 M3 does but that is an engine holy grail. Technically both inline sixes and rotaries do produce SOME vibrations otherwise they'd feel like electric cars. It's the fact that they both don't get more violent as they rev that makes them so special. An inline six has it's characteristic vibration but it's similar to other piston engines in that it is a sort of reciprocating vibration. The rotary engine in contrast sort of... gyrates. And that gyration creates what I call the euphoric fractal of sensation that revving a rotary to redline provides. The inline six can't do that, but it more than makes up for it with it's additional performance and potential performance.
Always glad to hear from an expert. Maybe the fact that RCR was driving a 4 speed made him stall more often? Not sure how much longer the ratios on the 4 speed are, or why Mazda continued to offer them up to the FD.
Hope you still see this. But i wanted lo let you know European fb's almost all have a backseat. I have a parts car and the one i am restoring, both have the backseat. I even have one extra interior including backseat with my parts car haha. That makes 3 in total. I also believe we got different trims here. Less levels, just two models similar to GS or GSL-SE i believe.
I test drove an RX-8 and killed it a bunch. The woman did say her son put a racing clutch in it, i have no idea if that had anything to do with it. I passed on it for a multitude of reasons but it was the only car i walked away from fantasizing about having an afternoon just to drive it.
Exterior wise, there is a small change between the series 2’s and series 3’s. The series 3’s had brake cooling vents on the lower front facia. Road racers and track-day enthusiasts will actually swap that panel and fashion custom ducts to further aid in brake cooling and even aid in engine bay cooling a very little bit.
In my opinion, RCR is right about stalling a rotary. You always hear that they don't have low end torque; but it's different entirely when you get in and try to get going for the first time. My FB isnt the first manual car I've driven, but it's the first manual car I've owned and driven more than once. I had tons of issues stalling at first, but I did quickly get used to it.
Remember Mr. Regular was the guy who said the American AE86 isn’t a true AE86 because the VIN said AE88 even though the JDM model didn’t have a vin number.
The cheapest fb in the netherlands at the moment is €3.9K automatic with a carbon fiber kit thats broken in all corners of the car and it has heaps of rust
On drivability, I had an 3-speed automatic-equipped 1979 FB that I converted to a 5-speed, and used a Tweakit 16lb flywheel--20lb lighter than stock! Even with the light flywheel, it was no problem at all to get rolling. But compared to stock manual FB's it was a huge improvement on responsiveness for the low-torque, light GVW combination, especially since the automatic version of the 12A doesn't have the intake shutter, which makes for improved engine braking.
Too many people here are making comparisons of something they have not actually experienced. I have owned 7 different FBs over the years, including a GSL-SE. I do not have to speculate what it would be like with a straight six - my current driver is a 1984 GSL with a Skyline RB20 engine and 5 speed trans, 210 hp, same 7,000 redline as the rotary, and just as smooth, gets 50% better gas mileage. I drove this car for 15 years with a street ported 150hp 12a, now 9 years with the six. In case anyone is interested, I ported the 12a secondaries, but with stock primary and exhaust ports. This does not disrupt the smooth idle, drives just like stock until you let it rev at full throttle. I made an adapter manifold with an RX-4 carb, RB header. I have always said that stoplight drag racing is childish and immature, but if someone pulls up next to me in a BMW, well, I just do what I have to do.
One thing big mistake that self made RU-vid reviewers do is compare a old RX-7 to modern cars. While many car magazines and TV car shows review them back in the 80's and had a good impression about them, they never mention boat smell of mirror problems. Any new car will feel better than any old car (even if the old car has a perfect restoration). Now for the how reliable are them? Well i have seen RX-7s on craigs list and ebay that had one or two owners in 30 years. They are keep them all original. I am sure most people would not keep an unreliable car for so long.
There was a 400€ RX-7 FB with Rotary rims and running 12A in Bayern, i was about to buy it but i wasnt fast enough. Im on a budget and love the FB so im always hunting the net. Id also love to 12A Swap my 1989 Trabant 601...
Rotary motor is only as reliable as you make it, 12a or 13b doesn't matter. Obviously if you don't know carbs you won't have a good time and vise-versa with fuel injection. Great content man🤙
I think now is the perfect time to buy an fb. I saw one for sale recently for $4500 and the owner claimed it had 27k miles on it and judging by the pictures it looked like the mileage was accurate. Great car for any young enthusiast
The FB with rear seats was never sold in the US. Anybody who has rear seats got lucky enough to find a set elsewhere or brought a Canadian car into the US. They are extremely difficult to get ahold of. As far as carbureted vs Fuel injected, Carburetors are simple. i have come to like it. I do like my 12a. It pulls well and they do tend to last longer than 13B motors. Manual mirrors are superior. I wish I could find another set. As far as needing to put money into the car, the only work I have done to mine that NEEDED to be done was alternator (easy), Carburetor rebuild (medium-high), and struts/shocks (easy-medium). Otherwise, it has been a near perfect car and inexpensive outside of finding parts after someone hit the car and mods for fun.
Rear seats for the FB couldn't have been too difficult to get ahold of because my family's had one. The seats are in the attic now instead of the car but my son wants to figure out how to get them installed again.
I see an SA with a back seat EVERY DAY. It's my 79 it sits right next to my other SA.. with that stupid brace And if you are doing the start off right for an RX-7 you tend to chirp or spin your tires a little when the road is wet. I think I might get an FB but as of now I just have 2 SAs that are complete and run and a third SA for parts
Se is my first car and the car I learned stick in I didnt stall it 1 time trying to learn I've stalled it doing dumb shit like not taking it out of gear and letting off the clutch or trying to take off with the e brake on etc but never stalled it legitimately Little side note for zack tho 84-85 rx7s have one small exterior detail that none off other bodies have and that's the little slits or on each side of the front bumper
Actually, I find almost all reviews of rotaries by supposed car enthusiasts purporting to be “gear-heads” who’ve never owned a rotary to be recycled drivel about a topic they know little about, primarily relying rumor, hearsay, and aspersions. There are usually glaring errors and misunderstandings wrapped in overall willful ignorance. Every car (in fact every design of anything) has pros and cons resulting from the designer and manufacturer making certain compromises between cost, efficiency, reliability, performance, and other factors. Instead of relying on a knowledgeable person with some expertise and dispassionately discussing the advantages and disadvantages in context, we’re treated to sensationalism to intended to stir up controversy. To answer the inevitable question, no, I couldn’t get past the 2 minute mark of RCR review. The Everyday Driver review - also not rotary guys - is much better, although it also has mistake (referring to “rack” in a recirculating ball system).
I love my 12a but the 13b has more parts and dont to mention I stayed carberated on my 13b for my tuning preferences but efi is nice for tuning on computers and is much more efficient in that manner
I'm just glad mr regular didn't go so over the top like he did with the FD review, ugh I couldn't stand that one. Zach I'm curious what did you think of rcr review of the fd?
@@ShootingCars This is because Rotarys do not have a 'cool cycle' like in 4 stroke piston engines. In a 4 stroke, on the second time the piston goes to top dead center there is no ignition sequence and the engine draws air and fuel through the head for the compression stroke. This has a cooling effect on the valves, cylinder ports and exhaust manifold. It is also why 2 stroke engines get so hot as they don't have a 'cool cycle'. This also helps with combustion efficiency and lowers emissions.
I stalled my RX7 all the time, but it was an absolute shit box and it barely stayed running. I miss it. I'm trying to sell my Speed3 so I can try to get an FB, preferrably the GSL-SE.
@@user-cs8qb9ug1f Weber 45DCOE carb with short "lake cities" manifold, Racing Beat header and muffler, 2nd gen direct fire ignition upgrade with MSD 6AL
I only like my 12a because it has 200,000 miles and runs good 😂 but uhh 13b coming as soon as my 12a blows (p.s homemade turbo coming for the 12a so she shouldn’t be around much longer 🤐)
This is gonna sound extremely strange, but can someone get me a torque curve, in picture format if possible, from a dynoed NA12a? Preferable an 83 or an 85, but I'll take just about any. Also wouldn't mind an NA 13b torque curve, also in picture format, if possible.
Hey I might be buying two rx7’s and a 12a for one of them (one car is a parts car). Now I’ve never worked on a Wankel engine but I’m a descent mechanic. The issue is the engine isn’t in ether of the cars and isn't known if it runs for sure. Would it be a bad idea to buy these.
I honestly didn't like his review very much. And the whole thing about it being easy to stall and whatnot was very wrong. Man, my sidedraft 12a could be given no gas and just let the clutch out and it would drive. If anything the damn thing was hard to stall lmao.
Yeah RCR can't drive for shit, he is useless, he loves cars but can't drive to save his life. Another reason it stalled was it could have been out of tune as I have repaired rotarys where the idle was not set properly and the ignition timing was out, or bad spark plugs etc. Routine maintenence is key with any car.
This dude is tripping almost 99% of gen 1 RX7s had back seats. They are Japanese cars not American. Just because the US cars didn't have back seats does not mean that the rest of the world is the same.
@@ShootingCars Yeah though Japan never intended them for Americans. In New Zealand we got the JDM imports and NZ new versions, and most if not all of them had back seats, I've owned 3 SA22c s1's '79 and '80 and they all had back seats. It's the same in Europe, Australia, South America, South africa, etc. The only reason US didn't get back seats is probably due to safety regulations.
@@ShootingCars I want something that is rwd, and has a manual transmission, something that's fun to drive, and not something you see everyday. I'm looking for a project. ( How long can a rotary last when rebuilt if not abused?)
@@ShootingCars Me too im thinking about getting an FB tomorrow but im not sure, somehow the amount of work to put in it and as a first timer scares me. Would you recommend this as a first time manual driver and project?
