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My first car I bought with help from my grandparents was a 69 Charger 383. The man I bought it from had a trailer hitch on it and used it to tow a fishing boat ! 😄 In 1978 It had 56,000 and I paid$ 1,500 for it . I thought I had the coolest car at my High School 😎 Nothing like the sound of a V8 with a four barrel. Those days are going away forever it seems 😪
6 years ago, I bought my 70 Charger R/T site unseen, based on pics only. Flew into BC Canada, and drove it 3000 miles home to PA. Besides a ton a fuel, and the alternator crapping out (changed it in the parts store parking lot), I lucked out and it made it back just fine. Best road trip ever!
Just got my dream car yesterday. 70 RT 440 375 hp, auto on column, No Ac. though. 34,000 mi. Florida car. 1 owner since 71` Plume Crazy purple, blk vi top, . I was going to drive it back from the storage facility in Pitt,Pa. The price I payed $11,300 included having it delivered to my place by car hauler. It should be here by Sat-Monday. Take care. From Sioux City,Ia.
It will stop boiling and prevent vapor lock when you driving. but can`t stop fuel evaporating when you park it with hot engine specially on summer times. best solution is using electric pump. Also with electric pump you should use original fuel filter with vapor return line.
Tyler’s barely out of the car and the wizard “If you EVER sell this thing you HAVE to call me first”, love it. Beautiful car Tyler can’t wait to see the mini resto/what you do with her
Things are about to move really fast now. Too fast for those asleep to realize it. They've been slowly working on One world Totalitarian control for centuries. And now it's here.
He highly favors Mercedes, BMW, Ferrari, and other Euro brands. He'll toss in some American cars, but you never see him with any kind of Japanese cars old or new.
I agree. I missed the perceived scam part. Have to say I shake my head when anyone buys any car, but especially an older one and heads out on the highway without having a basic safety check done. If you don’t value your own safety, consider the others sharing the road. That said, maybe it’s all just click-bait and clever editing. Tyler is smarter than his on screen persona.
@@ppeterson9359 Yeah surely he wouldn't REALLY have gone on the highway on 30 year old tyres? If he did, he risked not just his own life but that of others around him - I've only ever had one blowout at highway speeds and I just barely managed to control the car - fortunately no other vehicles were close by or it could have been very different.
Disappointing thumbnail to be sure. This looks to be an honest car that had been sitting for a lot of years. Things like hoses, tires, leaks, etc are to be expected when buying a car from the 60s
Hoovie is learning the things everyone in the classic car hobby all ready knew. Most collector owners don't replace parts that degrade with time (like tires) "cause I've only put a 100 miles on it in 10 years" and most don't worry about making sure stuff actually works.
That melted wiring on the firewall is from the bulkhead connector going into the cabin. Mopars are famous for fires and melted wires in that connector area. I had the same issue with my 74 Dart
Usually the 10 AWG ammeter wiring running through that connector. Bad design. The fix was to either swap to a voltmeter or run that heavy gauge wire through the firewall by itself.
I watched a 1976 Duster burn there in 1985… complete meltdown of harness… my buddy and I re-wired the whole car… it wasn’t perfect but the car ran for years after that!
There's a reason they called these old cars "More Parts" ;) at the time. Nothing is super expensive, but something is always coming apart or needs work. Bad to own, but GREAT for channel content I guess?
Exactly and continues to drive without a breather or a rag or literally ANYTHING to keep dirt and debris from entering the motor while driving 😂😂 smh lol
1968 penultimate year for muscle cars from all the big 3 and even AMC. Awesome car Tyler. I’ve been enjoying your TV show for about a year now and look forward to digging into your RU-vid channel. Living vicariously through you and Wizard lol. Keep up the good work!
For the gas boiling Edelbrock does have an extra thick carb gasket that insulates some of the engine heat. It did the trick on my old small block at least.
The "RB" big blocks are different but IIRC Mopar and the aftermarket sold some kind of a block off plates or gasket that helped with that issue. Also a good fuel pump properly placed. Good ol Holley to the rescue..
For me, this is the best buy yet, mainly for the originality and nostalgia factor. A close friend had a few 68’s over the years and we spent many hours cruising. All were big blocks and a lot of fun.
I recently visited the USA and i can see the passion for cars, we had our V8s taken away years ago in Australia, unaffordable to most people just drive 4 cylinders but i could see they are still very much prevalent in the USA, i really hope this never changes but i think our days are numbered as car guys, the boring days are coming!
I thought Holden made 6 litre ls V8s what the hell happened down there first your guns then V8s what tyranny what are the MFP supposed to drive when pursuing the "Toe Cutter and his m c gang
Skilled, knowledgeable, experienced car guys pay a fair price for solid cars worthy to restore, then you have Hoovie, a guy with more money than sense. Hey Hoovie, take the Wizard to shop with you.😆
Hoovie, our families 68 Charger R/T 440/727 has a gear vendor overdrive for the Torqueflite trans that helps the rpm come down at highway speed, I would look into it but they can be expensive but that could help solve your problem. Glad to see you enjoying your Charger as our family does with our own
For a performance built that is THE solution! Otherwise you are back to stock gear ratio -which is great if you are going for a restoration build vs. performance.
Ammeters were full flow (no shunt), usually took out the entire dash loom if not the whole car. Old Dodge front end, may as well rebuild the entire thing. Only takes a couple hours. Moog parts typically last forever (or at least used to, these days who knows...) The best part about them was the tie rod sleeves almost never seized up. Pay attention to the rear of the K-member where the LCA passes through. Usually it was the smaller Darts, etc. that cracked there but some of the larger ones as well. Replaced a ton of them. LCA bushings took a beating as there's only one per side. Drums on those worked ok but not as well as discs. Drums will stop you quickly - once. After that they fade rapidly. Check pinion snubber, especially if there's wheel hop under hard accel. A little bit longer helps immensely with those twenty foot long leaf springs. Those big blocks were scorchers. Have to let them cool off for 4 hours or so to keep from being scarred for life when changing plugs. Blocking off exhaust crossover helps keep from fuel boiling off. Hard hot re-start always with big block Chryslers. Anything to help them remove underhood heat helps. V2 compressor always was a monster but as solid as they come. My vote = keep it if it works, they're epynomous. Take a good look at the water pump. Easy to change and prone to leaks on some.
Great response, all true, my '68 charger back in the day had brake issues as well will pedal going to the floor one evening, and the electrical junction box on the firewall melted as well and mine was the same dark green as Hoovies, with a 318 that ran great!! miss the fuel filler on the fender instead of under the license plate that most cars of this era had.
There's a misconception regarding drum brakes. Properly functioning drum brakes work just fine. Disc brakes are superior, but only when it comes to brake fade under hard driving and if they get wet. The main difference with modern braking systems is anti-lock brakes, which doesn't come with a conversion.
Drum brakes actually brake better than the equivalent disks, but as you stated the big drawback of drums is brake fade. However unless you're tracking the car or going downhill daredevil there's nothing wrong with drum brakes.... Except working on them, god do I hate drum brakes!
14:25 Wizard knows his stuff! Back in the day the first thing you did when you got a muscle car was tighten up the play adjuster....They came "loose" from the factory to help the box last longer and make it easier to steer. Tighten them up and you improve the handling immensely.
Double thick carb gaskets (not metal spacers) really helped keep my intake on my 318 from boiling gas (video of the experiement on my channel). You can also run a return line to the tank with a filter that has a choked orifice to let vapor get sent to the cool tank.
Double thick gaskets are OK but risk leaks and breaking the carb baseplate. The answer is a phenolic spacer, it's fancy space plastic, the stuff used on space capsule heat shields. A few common outfits make spacers out of it. It's also a much bigger problem with those Edelbrock/AFB carbs. They're all one aluminum body so they transfer heat. The base plate of a Holley is magnesium, then there's a gasket between the base plate and body, another to the metering block, and another to the fuel bowl. So in a Holley the heat must pass magnesium and 3 gaskets instead of just one chunk of aluminum with the Edelbrock.
@@snek9353 my uncle had a wood set on a Oldsmobile, I didn't ask how long it took to make all of that. He used left over stuff he didn't use on the house repairs.
@@kennethwallace4338 Yeah wood is an option, don't know if they're still made but used to be able to buy spacers made out of wood. I've also used wood often to make custom adapters, to make a carb fit in some combination, and/or have smooth exact transitions.
Nice car. Typical with many that I've owned as well that they are not fully sorted out or sit long enough to develop leaks. That one is a good find and will be a great project.
My father bought his red 68’ charger 383 magnum brand new in 68’. We towed our StarCraft pop-up camper with it for several years, it was one of the most bad ass tow vehicles in town, I still have a pic of him proudly standing in front of it with the camper next to it in the driveway.
Wow, so nice how it's basically all original like that. What a rare find. Hate how normally they are completely hacked up. You definitely did well on that one!
Thankfully Wizard mentioned just doing a repair and refresh on the drums. For what use this will see they're more than good enough. If it saw enough drive I'd worry about a 4 speed/overdrive before disc conversion.
Probably time to scrub the blue protective coating off of the tires. The problem with your lights is likely the vaccum cannister has a corroded opening in the bottom of it OR you have a broken vacuum arm on your headlight switch. As far as the ac switch not working you can still find the nos plastic switchboxes inside the trimplate. Theres many so look for same part number as you take out. On the wiring, its an inherant problem in the spade connectors. You take the plugs out, use elec cleaner and a brass brush to clean both sides and then put a small amount of dialectric grease in each female side of the connection. Just a little and dont let it cross over to other female plug ends. That should solve the resistance heat issue. Yoy can also run a heavy guage shunt wire from the alt stud to the start relay stud. This sends all the heavy current right back to the battery and takes the load off the inside of the car. Note. If you do a shunt your alt guage will be inaccurate. You can plug a digital into the cig lighter to check periodically for proper output. Myself, 37 yrs in mopars, primarily chargers and other b bodies. Ive seen it all.
Awesome! I would like to visit with you in the future once I get my Car delivered. Will need advice on any upgrade repair, etc. Should be here by Sat. It has no AC. Can I upgrade it to AC? Take care. From Sioux City,Ia.
Hoovy, l live in Tasmania and we have never met, but, it's just like you're the guy who lives next door. You are an absolutex 'natural' and watching your videos you put a big smile on my face. We have much in common. 😆
1968 Dodge Charger RT 440 Best Mopar of all time even when its all factory original aside from a past repaint and some brakes & headlight work still looks mostly original OEM spec thats good to see and know of from past history its a very iconic American Muscle Car.
I had a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner 440 and it was a beast. Especially after I did cam and head work, headers and all that and using all MOPAR high performance parts. But this is back when you could pick up a nice one for 7 grand or less. I can only imagine what they are asking now and not to mention the risk of VIN swapping etc..
@@Welcometofacsistube I think they are bolt on and fully reversible. Besides if you have a driver that you want a little pep these are almost a requirement.
3:50 LOL.. I just figured out who you sound like.. Jeff Goldblum. You have him down perfect.. the same pauses, inflections, everything. Very entertaining!
THIS IS ONE CAR YOU MUST KEEP!!!! Do not change much on it but if you do,box up the parts you take off and keep em. By the way,sounds like 3.91 rear gears.
When you buy the cheapest version of the car you want on the internet its usually not in perfect condition, it just makes sense. It's still an amazing car and would be proud to own it.
Even with a 4.56 it would be doing 55 at 3000. Make sure it’s actually shifting to 3rd and if so check the tach for accuracy. Something isn’t adding up. A healthy 440 with that steep a gear would boil those tires at any throttle level
You should look into a Gear Vendors overdrive unit. Its a separate overdrive that will drop highway rpm significantly, turns 4.10s into 3.08s (roughly), plus you keep the snap off the line. Totally reversible too. If you want you can even split shift it, giving you 6 closely spaced ratios. Also a Phenolic spacer will help with the fuel boiling, making hot starts easier.
I knew a guy with '68. He swapped the cam out and it didn't produce enough vacuum to open the headlamp doors, like Hoovie's ex-Sbird he had to put a small compressor under the hood.
Tyler your video just what I needed. Even if you have to put money into it's still one on the coolest cars you ever bought! The only cooler would be the the General Lee!!!
My dream car right there!! ‘68 RT 440/Hemi 4-speed, manual tho, of course. Yours looks beautiful the way it is. I’d keep it mostly original as well, but would paint it black or a B5 blue with a black vinyl top and a champagne interior. Damn, my eyes get watery just imagining it! Great vid, btw!!
Beautiful car, Hoovie. Verify the rear axle ratio by counting the number of driveshaft revolutions needed for one wheel revolution. Both wheels should rotate in the same direction since it's a Sure Grip. I had a 68 R/T back in my younger days with a 3.23. 3000 RPM @ 80 MPH. The transmission may not be shifting into high either due to someone installing a manual reverse valve body, aka brainless (D=1 and 1=H), or there's a problem with the transmission. Make sure the linkage between the carburetor and transmission is functional and properly adjusted. That linkage "tells" the valve body how far your foot is into the throttle. The governor "tells" the valve body the output shaft RPM. That's how the original valve body "tells" the transmission when to shift. BTW, right front wheel bearings are loose or worn out. Normal those bearings are good for well over 100K if they are repacked at every brake job.
A suggestion to you and the Wizard for the carb / gas boiling. On mine (6-pack) we used a couple of thin spacers with gaskets between to insulate and raise the carburetor off the hot engine / intake.
Nice observation Mr. Wizard about the modern gasoline boiling when warm. Here in Colorado at higher altitudes, I think it boils at room temperature!! Running a carb here is almost over, my remaining carb vehicles have electric booster pumps except the dirt bikes.
Except that h eis 100% wrong. See, I went to refinery school before the Ameranda Hess shutdown in Perth Amboy NJ, and what 'wizard' said about modern gas is completely wrong. I hope he can wrench better than he can BS, it will take you less than 5 minutes to verify this.
Those axles can actually blow gear oil out of the vent because of the location of the vent at the "T" for the brake line. It could also possibly be that. I have basically an identical axle swapped into my 1970 Duster and it did this. The aftermarket vents for whatever reason must be different than the originals and its likely you have one like I did. Because my car is not original I just went for a bolt for a newer truck and put a vent hose on it and that has solved it. I can tell you for sure it doesn't have a 3.23 rearend because it would be somewhere around 2800-3000 rpm at 70 mph with no OD and that size tire.
I Love green!! I also own a 68 Charger RT and these are comfortable cars and handle pretty good,usually the steering box fails after years of mileage and age...Drums do work pretty good,try to fix them before converting to front discs..
Comparing that to my 1972 Hillman Avenger (Plymouth Cricket), it seems a world away. The Avenger has coil spring rear suspension, front disc brakes, and is geared to drive at (at least) 70mph all day. But that Charger sounds nice. The interior looks really good too.
Cool. I remember the Campbell's Soup Can used to be a thing in at least one of my parent's cars back in the 70's. Always wondered what it was for..... now I know :)
I have no interest in ever owning an old muscle car, but do appreciate hearing one burble by on the road, fully sorted. I'm looking forward to this. It sounds like a fun project car.
They didn't handle worth a damn, brakes faded after just a couple hard stops , drank fuel but when you are rolling and plant your foot there is nothing else to compare
The good part is you can get anything you could imagine to make them handle and comfortable. I’ve got a chevelle with an LS and a 6 speed in it that once they are sorted are very reliable
In 1971 I bought a 69 with a 383 that was baby blue with a white vinyl top and white interior. Beautiful car. I'd love to drive one now just to see what it feels like.
It was really common for the main power feed through the bulkhead connector to get hot & melty like that. The problem was in the blades of the connector itself. I would usually just solider in a new piece of wire on either side of the connector and run it straight through. Might take a little drill bit work. Another common problem was poor connections at the back of the ammeter. It'd get hot and kill the meter as well as melt the wires. Worth checking that too. Nice car! Cheers.
After Hoovie dumps the money into it that's needed to fix all the little issues, someone's going to get a fantastic car. Hopefully you decoded the fender tag to make sure it is what you paid for. This is the best year for the Charger IMO. '68 only tail lights, small round marker lights, and no grille divider. Love that it's a factory AC car.
You do know it would have been a AWESOME miniseries if you went cross country and showed us the trip. When you get a car cross country, just go to a local shop to do the basic maintance and go for it…
“Local shop” for either a classic or an exotic would cost a fortune, and who knows the quality of the work or turn around time. He could have dropped the Charger off at a random shop in FL and have it be stuck there for 5 months “waiting on parts, should be ready next week” and get stuck with a $20k repair job only for The Wizard to get his hands on it and find the shop didn’t repair it correctly anyways. A good honest mechanic can be tough to find. Hoovie struck gold when he found The Wizard. I found a good shop locally, but they charge a fortune. Found another great local shop, but they have 2 work bays, 2 highly skilled mechanics, and 3 parking spots out front - so tough to schedule any work there.
@@michaelkillerman - find a shop nearby at random. Take your car there and tell them you’re about to drive the car on a road trip halfway across the US, and see what their estimate for repairs is so that you arrive safely.
Agreed, the 440 was a low revving engine, hp peak@4600, no reason to rev it beyond 5000 rpm. It ain't no HEMI. Gotta admit, the chassis looks really clean and rust free. Front end needs work, brakes and steering too, but that's typical on any old Mopar... BTW, the streamlined original factory exhaust manifolds make the same power as aftermarket headers [according to Hot Rod] on an OEM engine. Rebuilt York compressors are readily available and the interior vinyl can probably be restitched.
In that it's up on a lift, easy way to get a pretty good feel for gear ratio: Pop it out of gear. Chalk the inner sidewall of one rear tire denoting straight down. Have one guy holding the other rear wheel from turning. Turn the drive shaft and count how many turns ans fractions of turns of the pinion gear you get until the chalk mark is back where it started.
Sad...and funny at the same time that your comment is even needed. Two 'car guys' standing under a car, wondering what gear ratio it has. 'It CAN'T be what the tag says...', 'What could it be?', etc. etc. That's just ridiculous! Do just what you said....and get the answer!! Maybe no reason to even hold the opposite tire. It has a Sure-Grip tag, so maybe it actually has a posi unit in it. Would be strange NOT to with a BB and 4.56 gears. Another question altogether as to why anyone would put gears like that in a 440, HP (three bolt cam) or not. vanpenguin22: Absolutely correct...and why didn't they do that? Can that method possibly be unknown to these guys? THAT is hard to believe. Good for a laugh anyway.
@canyncarvr You know? Wizard in particular, but both these guys have a hell of a lot of irons in the fire. With complexity comes a narrow field. I'm often a victim of that myself. Either way, he turned me on to a source for obsolete parts, as I'm a sitting duck waiting for my noisy timing belt idler to explode, so I have his back. As well, Anyone who can do engine out fixes on Ferraris as a routine deserves and has my undying respect. I'm dreading the crap out of the rear valve cover gasket I have to do on my nightmarishly complex v6 Mazda. If I weren't half a continent away, I'd hire him for that.
