I actually work at a newholland dealership and I’m very familiar with these machines, I would be willing to give answers over the phone or even send a service manual to an email with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting instructions
Rich Andy good show lucky to have any kind of Skid steer ,when the Wife sends you out to work in the garden it actually play time I've only got shovels and wheel barrow Rich we need to dirty Andy he,s to clean to be in your presence LOL Kym Adelaide
The sudden stop is due to the seat switch. If I lean too far forward, especially with low fuel level, the seat switch will activate. Also if you have low fuel level and hit some bumps the low fuel alarm will beep at you. As far as I know the parking brake switch and the mini switch on the console perform the same function. There are relays for them in the fuse box.
Yes this is right, it is either the seat switch thinking you got up out of the seat and locks up the parking brake, or the seat belt switch giving you issues, or both. Also hitting the operate button once you get in and start it and put the safety belt latch in is a normal procedure to operate the machine. Get in sit down push power, enter code for starting if you have one or just hit start, then put safety belt in or unplug and replug it in if you are using behind your back, then push operate button to unlock parking brake and activate hydraulics. I believe your issue with the voltage meter and fuel stuff is a bad ground, I would splice in extras in case you have an intermittent ground issue back to negative battery terminal. Good luck I just got a 2016 L218 new holland and have been doing lots of research and work on it. Gotta love the oil filter location mine looked way worse with only 600 hours on the machine. And under the motor looks the same.
I have the 2016 C232 with pilot controls. When I first got the machine it had about 1500 hours on it. It ran great for about 30 hours and then I start having all kinds of electrical problems with mine. I brought it into the new Holland dealer. They went over it and found out that the main wiring harness needed to be replaced. Apparently at some point new Holland sourced their wiring harnesses from a different manufacturer and they used inferior wiring and sheathing to build the harnesses and it caused a whole lot of headaches a crossed the board as far as all the new Hollins that they have manufactured and sold during that time period. They did wind up fixing it for me. I believe it was under some sort of a service bulletin recall type of thing so I don’t have any paperwork or dollar amount for that repair. Good luck with your machine when they run right they are quite literally tanks.
Rich Deboss - We're going to fix all the problems with Andy's skid steer. Andy - [in the voice of Chief Brody from Jaws] "You're going to need a longer video."
Sounds like you have an intermittent ground to the control panel... turning on the parking brake makes a separate ground, enabling operation... then, when the other ground comes back in (or whatever) the parking brake comes on, throwing you forward. Just a guess.
I had one do something very similar on the instrument cluster, it was a bad ground wire for the cluster where they splice all the grounds into the main harness
@@scowellthis is what I was going to say. Only way to change the oil filter on my BMW 120d is with a cap wrench. I only have one use for it but yes having to carry around lots of sizes compared to an adjustable one would be a pain.
I have a New Holland L785 1994 never breaks down 6000 hard hours in NYC . Got rid of newer machines constant electric Computer issues on Bobcrap . Perkins motor . Only a few hoses a alternator starter and wheel hub seals . Best machine i ever had .
Oh man I worked on these for years. The park brake light is very likely the park brake pressure switch located in the valve block that is in the left side of the machine. Kinda hard to do diagnostics over RU-vid lol.
This is precisely why I walked away for from a low hour case skid steer… the electronics were weird, twitchy and likely to fail …. Got a much more expensive Kubota and I’m loving it!
I’ve had a Similar issue with our Deere ss. Ended up being the harness for the cab where it hinges the cap open. Chafing! But some how I think rich would have looked for something like that. Good luck fellas
Nevwr worked on these before, but it would make sense if the volt meter isn't getting a proper reading, and it has the same power source, then the signal to the rest of the gauges would read low, if at all. So find you power loss to the gauge panel, fix all the gauges...
I'm just an old man and a backyard mechanic but I must say, ground connections are everything and then some. I would also add, check all pigtails on the alternator as many corrode over time. A rare shot in the dark is the voltage regulator itself could be failing.. I Always pressure wash all grimmy, oily machines before I start working on them. Good luck guys, look forward to what turns out to be causing the issues.
Dash will also count down like that if the Engine oil pressure switch is open while engine is running. Park brake pressure switch on the pilot block turns red park led on and off. The seat switch will not bring any codes up just park brake on. The sudden park brake coming on will happen with any red stop light ( serious fault ) You can scroll through all the codes while active with the aux override button. Maybe note them down next time it happens. You can only view logged codes through that dash with a service tool.
Hey Rich. Check your body and chassis earth points. Could be corrosion issues. Especially if it's been under water. C9uld also be a corroded earth wire just back from the attachment point. Separate them and see how the wiring looks.
they were notorious for problems around the fuse box and related connections, usually from water ingress collecting in the fusebox, there was a modification bulletin talking of drilling 2 x 7mm holes in the bottom of the fusebox holder to allow the water to drain out, also issues with harness "strain" (made the loom too short) ....esp pre NCM427579.
that hard to get to filter reminds me of the coolant petcock on a 2014 ford escape. surrounded on all sides with an intercooler pipe right in front of it to keep you from getting to it easily.
This thumbnail is pretty funny. I wish I could photoshop cause I want the head to be carried in the bucket, but also make it look like the machine is tipping over haha
If you think that engineering is bad, the older LS 170 series had you unable to remove the battery unless the boom was up. So if battery dead, think of ways to lift boom....
The first time my uncle did a oil change on ares he sent it back to dealer to get a regular spin on and drain also the tire model wears out tired fast cuz the finders
Check/add grounds. Also add a wire from alt to battery of a higher gauge. I started doing this when doing car audio and have continued. It makes the electrical more stable as well as increases voltage. Check seat/seat belt switch for frayed worn wires
Im pretty sure full throttle on these machines should be about 2250 rpm, ive spent a lot of time in the equivalent case machine and its about there wide open
Just fixed this on my new holland. The fuses for in the cab were bad. Kept dropping voltage, as it comes through the engine fuse box to the key switch then through the safetys. Guessing you have a bad fuse, had one of the blades that got hot and made a bad connection. Best guess is you have a massive voltage drop from the power supply to the key.
Hey depending on the year those units had lots of issues with the joystick handles breaking wires where the wire works back and forth on the joystick pivot. There were updates to how the harness were held and routed.
Charging issue check the positive wire coming off the alternator it splits into 2 leads under the engine and does corrode. The locking up issue sounds like a seat sensor wiring or seat belt buckle sensor, both will cause them to lock up.
Forgot to mention, mine is actually in that same shop right now because the full throttle apparently went kaput and I have zero response on my throttle. Apparently the foot throttle is the first place that the wires coming off of the throttlebody go to and then from the foot pedal up to the a pillar throttle And it’s costing me quite a bit of money. If there was a way for me to bypass the foot throttle, I would do it because I don’t use it very often.
Go ahead and order a wire harness for that machine. They get brittle and will fail in multiple points. It was a major design flaw on those early models. They claim to have updated the materials on the new models wire harnesses. That will most likely cure your electrical gremlins
Case and newholland skidsteers are the same machine with the newholland having a few extra panels here and there. Case has issues with those clusters and their harnesses. If you ever run into a situation where it doesn’t start check the maxi fuses beside the engine block left side on body
The intermittent stop could be the seat belt switch I had that issue on my jd332 it would for no reason lock up on you just out of the blue and just about send you through the door
Is there a diagnostic port where you can connect to a service tool on your laptop? It may have fault codes stored that are goofing things up. And beings it was probably sunk in the water at some point make sure you double check all the grounds on everything, one bad ground can cause weird shit to happen.
This machine likely does not have much for electronics as the engine is teir 3 and has mechanical foot controls. The only thing you can read codes off of is the EGR ECU and the instrument cluster. The countdown on the instrument cluster is possibly because of something on the EGR ECU but it is more likely that the pressure switch for the park brake is not working which explains why the park brake light is on but it still drives.
There is a little screen on the pillar that usually cycles between rpm, coolant temp and hyd oil temp. It will show you the code there when It throws one
My old boss had a TV380 Case with that remote oil filter by the battery. Luckily, I noticed the trail of oil behind me in time and shut the machine down. One of the hoses running to it sprung a leak down under the engine. He agreed to me removing the remote filter setup and just screwing the oil filter right onto the side of the engine where it belongs in my honest opinion.
@Notfilthy-ImAndy no doubt, I get that case likes to make maintenance easy and highly accessible which is great, but there comes a time where the cons outweigh the pros and the risk of damage isn't worth the convenience it might offer.
Also a little bad thing about newholland, from there construction equipment to their agricultural equipment new Holland doesn’t make their own wiring harnesses. They have wiring issues just like a dodge
7:42 the Engineers designed it so you can use a proper filter socket and a ratchet, so it can be undone properly and tightened up properly, rather than with a universal pair of filter pliers that scratch up the can or crush/dent it.
Misty is a lab/shepherd mutt mix. She started her first 8 months with a family who had 5 or 6 young children. She was very skittish when we got her. She responded well to her new home. Now She’s very friendly and rarely leaves my side. She turns 9 this year.
I'm going tell you what my case guy told me I can't troubleshoot it until you replace the wire harness it's in to bad shape.. not what you want to hear but that's where I would start
I've worked on many of those machines and it is sad to see the level of neglect that thing has seen. Those machines are usually quite good, but when so many people bypass so many rhings and half a$$ fix fhem they never work right.
Rich I love you but pressure wash that thing before you bring it in your shop with the C-10 and the Audi and I know the truck is probably outside but pressure wash it before you work on it and get all the dirt off before you bring it in your beautiful shop!
Definitely something going on with the circuit board and control panel that’s what gets pushed and touched the most and it was hanging down and open allowing dirt and moister to get to the back of the control board, I bet if you get a new one most of your issues go away, also find out what the ohm reading is supposed to be from the temp sensor and see if that is what the buttons and cluster is getting or if the temp sensor is giving the wrong ohms
Bobcat was terrible with hydraulic fan filter. No one ever changed them. And drive motors are forgotten by a lot of people and it gets expensive quick when you have to rebuild or order drive motor parts
That's not the correct instrument panel. If the machine has a key (open station) then it should not have a start button, the crank position is with the key switch.
Your stopping when you are traveling fast is the seat switch order a new one. They are cheaply made and a poor design. I replace every one that has a problem
Never buy a used skid loader unless you know the person who bought it new and operated it. Most are beat to hell and full of problems. Set another $10,000 aside at least for repairs. Can’t beat a new machine with 0% interest rates that most manufacturers offer now. Better yet, rent them 👍
It performs like a tank, when it’s operating correctly . Hopefully there is a cult following for repairing these machines, sort of like the bulletproofing the 6L diesel gang. I’m down for some bulletproofing.
Those New Holland Skid Steers are junk, I have fixed a lot a issues on those things. Probably a broken ground wire somewhere is the cause of your problems
