Evinrude 150 outboard drive shaft seal, gear selector o-rings and water pump 

I think I fixed all around my boat by watching Dangar Marine. Really good stuff. You actually use the tools that have hobbyist lying around to fix things. No torque wrench tools or presses or other BS that nobody has. Appreciate your videos! Keep them coming.

Your a life saver man. Love the detailed steps from you in every video you do. You have no idea how many people you really help sir. Thank you a million over!

Thanks for this! A small tip, when I get to the step where the impeller goes into the housing, I usually just get it started and then use a zip tie around the impeller to bend the impeller blades in a bit. When the housing is pressed almost to the bottom of the plate, i just cut the zip tie off with a pair of side pliers and the impeller blades spring out. Works well on larger impellers.

I love the way this guy always has a cold one nearby!

Great detailed video's you post. I know my way around outboards since I was a kid thanks to my dad but it's always nice to look up a good detailed video to confirm and not miss anything. I blew the o-ring on the bearing carrier today.....1987 Johnson GT150. Ordering all the seals and o-rings, mind as well refresh. Everything else is in top shape. Thanks again

the best Lower end rebuild video I have ever seen

If your sponsor is watching they should know I just bought my first boat (land lubber here, it's for lake use), and as this is my first boat and the outboard is from 1979 I didn't have the know-how to maintain it, or where to get parts, so Dangar Marine now has a new subscriber, and marineengine has a new customer in Canada.

Another great video Stu! Your vids have helped me to save not only cash from doing service myself, but time on the water as well, especially during the peak boating season when the repair shops get backed up.

I am new to the boat world, been studying all i can. Your videos help me out so much. Thank you!!!

glad you MarineEngine as a sponsor..both parties will benefit...great online catalog..

Regardless, you do a very good job with the videos. I watched them intently in spite of the fact I'm planning on a 40 to 60 for twin inboard. No one does videos about that kind of stuff so I still found yours very interesting. I've torn down and rebuilt maybe 5 or 6 auto engines years before RU-vid could have helped me. So I thank you for your sharing your experiences.

Thanks for all the lessons. It is folks like you that give so many of us the knowledge and confidence to move forward with successful conclusions. Not to take your time with my whole ordeal so the short story is I got a 70 HP Evinrude 1986 (ish) (powerhead was replaced) and learned that the previous two owners never had the leg off, water pump replaced, for over 11 years. The local shop charged me $150 only to return the motor stating they couldn't get it off also. So, not being a guy that gives up easily.... yes, I got it off, repaired it and am now in the process of reinstalling the motor for a test run. You are my go to reference material. Ciao

Very happy to see you using marineengine! I have used them for a few years now and they are awesome!

Excellent tutorial on the website there Stu! Great to have you aboard!

Awesome channel. I've had thoughts to move to a warmer climate and try working as a motorboat technician. These vids will help a lot. I might even start taking written notes.

Parents: What do you want to be when you grow up? Me: Dangar Stu. Thanks again for another detailed video!

Once again Dangar. Saved me a packet, I can do this myself and fix my water in gear oil issue.

i love that MarineEngine.com is sponsoring you. i once got a set of throttle and gear select cables from them for my older outboard and one wasnt crimped so it fell apart. the warehouse it came from was only a hour from me so instead of making me wait for a new one to ship they arranged for me to go pick one up so i could be one the water the next day with my buddies. because of that i use them for all my parts. great vid once again.

That was a good call Stu showing how to navigate the parts online. That's how I find my Mercury parts and order them. Except for the reeds valves the service manual shows 2 different thicknesses. I called Mercury marine and the thicker reeds go on the 55hp. the 60hp takes the .008. They are good for answering questions over the phone which is great customer service.

Thank you for what you do!

Thanks again !! I watch you before I do it myself! Cheers!👍

This is very true. Not trying to be a snob by by any means. I personally just think its a awesome gasket sealer. head's, Water pumps, Base gasket etc. I've definitely learned a lot on your channel. awesome work!!

Your camera work has improved dramatically! The 'trick' of your off hand behind the one holding the part forcing the camera to auto focus on the part is really useful! Good Job!

Love the Wurth calendar in the background

MarineEngine.com has saved the day for me many times with their diagrams and the fact that they have all the parts needed for the job. I've tried sourcing through ebay but you need to buy from multiple retailers and then your shipping cost goes up. MarineEngine.com has been bookmarked for years on my computer.

New subscriber from south Florida here I know that this is an old video series but I just wanted to let you know how much you have helped me out. I’ve recently picked up a beautiful Wellcraft walk around 22 With this exact 150 outboard on it The outboard wasn’t running so I was able to get the boat dirt cheap $1800 with galvanized double axle trailer My original plan what’s the spend another 8 to 10,000 to re-power with a newer Etec I was told that the Johnson was junk However this video series gave me the confidence to get it running like new it now pushes my boat about 48 kn on a calm day off shore and I’ve trusted it enough to make the crossing to the Bahamas three times already I do have a Sea tow membership just in case anyway I just wanted to Xpress my gratitude for all of the time you took to put This content out I find it both informative and entertaining thanks again

Thank you for your videos, I learned a whole lot from you sir.

Thanks again for your teaching. Have a great week Chris from the 🇺🇸 snowbelt

Very interesting and you are a good teacher and instructor for sure mate

I swear every time I have a problem or question you upload a video related to it

I like the calendar that you have on the wall behind you.

Thanks for the website. They have parts I was looking for.

Nice work as usual Stu. I really like that calendar too.

Hi Stu I haven't done any of these tasks yet but yesterday I had to try and remove the flywheel off a 50 Hp Mercury engine and after trying the traditional tools like a strap wrench which was to short i used one of your methods by using a coat hanger to capture the flywheel and it worked like a charm only thing was that I forgot to tell the friend who was helping me to crank hard on the ratchet when I say now so I got my finger hurt pretty bad a good chunk of meat gone but I'll survive, I'd show you the damage but its my middle finger and that just wouldn't be polite LOL

Fixed! Proper job.

Fantastic and very informative. Thanks

Superbe vidéo j'ai pu faire mon embase correctement merci. thank you.

You do such a Great job on your videos, I think I've watched all of them and I don't even own a Boat...LOL.... Saving my pennies for a Spray Booth like yours....

These videos has me riveted infront of my computer. And they have helped me too. My Suzuki blew the impeller. Parts ordered and the old one is already removed. But since im male and hetero im ALWAYS alittle bit wary of having my o-ring pinched.....

Thank you !

great vids man. hope you keep doing them. I do all my own boat work and for friends... you have become my "go to" source for info and "tips and tricks".. lol. thank you

Muito bom ❤ obrigado pela aula

Thanks for sharing . this is what I need to do on my old 70 Johnson.

well done mate good job

A zip tie around the impeller, to hold the bent the fins (the right way!), then snip it with sidecutters once the cover is over the top part.

so thanks teacher... Rss. great video. ponta grossa city brazil

Bummer.....I thought I just had to do the prop shaft seal....now I know there are about 10 other seals, gaskets, and O rings that I need. But thanks to you I have a chance at getting it right. I will get started building the spray booth first then order my parts. Another vote for employee of the month. I have some gasket and seals humor there too but I thought I had better keep it clean.....Thanks for the very informative video!!!!!

those oil seals always look loose, no matter what you do after a year. i've come to the conclusion water, 90% of the time, is getting in around the shift rod 0-rings or re-used drain and fill plugs, or a combo of both. both usually those 0-rings. i actually have a bunch of the older style shift rod covers i replace these with, as they only take one smaller 0-ring and make shifting friction slightly easier, plus they seem to keep water out better.

I learned to always pack the oil seal with grease so it doesn't run without lube in the beginning and smoke the seal.

🎶🌺🎶You R A Champ !! Thanx !! From Oslo Norway 🚤⚙️⛵️🎶

Another great vid Stu. I have an E150TXCEM that will need the same doing at some point so great to see how it's done. I also have ordered from Marine Engine.com and use their diagrams etc. Keep up the good work, love the 'spray booth'

loving the spray booth! haha

If I had a shop is pull my outboard apart and give it a good tune up.

I just noticed the calendar on the wall in the background. LOL

thanks for the video. Love the second hand though =)

Thanks!

Stu - if you rotated the impellor backwards it unlocks it from shaft before the housing is removed :)

Great and well informative. Is this the same outboard that you have replaced the pistons.

Do a video on your bike! Maybe just an overview on this channel to gauge interest and then decide if another channel is a viable idea... I'm sure many of your viewers here would like to see your camping kit; if it fits on a bike, I'm sure it'll fit in a boat! I am doing some boat camping myself and would love to see what you bring along...

Thanks bud.🖒✌🖖

Nice vid Stu. I just pulled the water pump off my spare Johnson 70. The drive shaft oil seal looks fine, although a little bit of chalky stuff sprinkled around it. I was thinking of vacuuming it out, cleaning it properly and putting a coating of grease on it to keep it protected and supple. Do you see any merit in this or does it need to be kept dry? Cheers.

WOW time out...just noticed what appears to be a calendar in the back....please zoom in on that and flip the pages. :-)

Another great vid Stu...and I must concur , the months on that calendar keep getting better and better. Nice one Wurth !! Quick question.. if you antifoul the bottom of the Evinrude leg will you use the Trilux 33 or is that just for hulls ?

Another very clear and useful Video Stu!, Great!. Related to this video, I would like to know further information about the assembling “gap” and its purpose on the Upper parts of gearcase transmission (axial bearings, washers and bearing housing cap). What is the "optimal" Gap between Shim washers (2) and the bottom face of the bearing housing top Cap (upper drive shaft side)? I would like to know if OMC/BRP indicates any particular value of gap for a new or used gearcase for instance, and what is the reason for it?... When I dissembled my Johnson 130-1996 gearcase for maintenance i measured 0,6mm of "light/gap" between top of the both shim washers (2x0.12mm) and bottom face of the bearing housing cap, is it OK or is too much separation? ... Should I add more Shim washers?.... I appreciate any help you can give me about this. Thanks a lot!

Did you ever do a carb rebuild video on the Evinrude 150 Ocean Runner...?

Great video! I have a 1999 Johnson 150hp 2 stroke and confirned leaks at drive shaft seal and shift linkage, but there is no leak at prop shaft seals. All original seals. I'll definitely replace the leaky ones, but is it okay to not touch the prop shaft seal. I'd rather not risk damaging the prop shaft if I don't need to. Thanks.

Guess congrats on having steady work, so much so you forget what you've already done per engine... So just like you forgot you were the one to pop in the O-ring on that oil seal (the spring was totally missing), but those two O-rings on the shifter didn't look that bad because they were brand new to begin with. You had changed them out when you freed up the stuck shaft.

Can I use a high grit sandpaper to get the rest of the gasket off the shift shaft case? Thank you for the video

Quick question - did you apply any rubber/gasket adhesive to the o-ring between the metal cup and plastic housing at all? Interested to know what your thoughts are as the manual calls for "adhesive 847" at the four points of the o-ring. Cheers!

Hello Dangar Stu. Thank for your very interesting and helpful videos. My name is Mark from South Africa. I have a Johnson 115HP V4 2004, serial number J115PLSRC motor, and I followed your video pretty much point by point, however when I removed the drive shaft seal plate my drive shaft lifted up slightly and it seems like it’s pulled out/ away from the gears in the box and now I can feel it running on top of the gears and not meshing. How do I relocate the shaft back with the gears without have to strip the lower end?

Johnno 99 90hp Gearbox broken tooth somewhere. In your experience does it usually cause damage to other components ? Great site, easy to watch and learn. Kind Regards

Are you concerned at all about the deep-cut ring on your drive shaft? How would you sand that out?

Hey, same spray booth I have! If you ever work out the part number for the bug filters let me know please.

Thanks Stu, this video is definitely going on the top shelf for WP and shift selectors​. Great tip on the parts list diagram. Repair manuals are rare and expensive for my 40 year old Johnson motor. I use my 15 hp Johnson quite a bit for trolling at very low speeds. I used to get black drops of unspent fuel leaking from the lower gear case box exhaust port. If I give her a go at WOT for a bit before heading for the launch ramp at the end of a 6 hour day it doesn't seem to happen. I know these little engines are temperamental and have their own personalities. Can you do an advisory video on excessive trolling use issues. If I spend 90% of my time at low speed trolling should I use different plugs, adjust the Lean/Rich selector and/or the fuel mixture ratio? Would a fuel additive be helpful or should I just not worry about the unspent fuel drips?

Great video thanks. I cant beleive I got though 3/4 of the video before I saw the Naked blond in the background

I have a question. Do you have a video on how to replace or unstick a shift rod on a 1989 Evinrude 150XP?

Does that main gasket sometimes require silicone to keep it in place? When starting the impeller in every attempt so has grabbed the gasket and threw it out of whack

great vid stu. I recently replaced impeller and housing on an old evinrude. kit came with few more o-rings than I used and no instructions. What would happen if I failed to put ring under impeller and in between the metal and plastic housing? I haven't put lower unit back on yet so don't know what kind of pressure I have. u da man stu

If the engine doesn't start we'll know it's because the wrong grease was used and I liked the spray booth.

I know you made these years ago, but dammit they are guiding me through my 112spl rebuild. Ive been looking for the orientation of the upper drive shaft seal every where. I purchased a new a new upper drive shaft housing and the seal is shipped upsidedown. was confused for 3 days until I saw this. Thank you for all the detailed videos. Onlt question I have though, what torque do you tighten the water pump bolts? Or are they torqued at all?

I've got a Johnson 88 that has a snapped upper shaft. I'd like to replace the upper shaft but I can't figure out how to get the upper shaft separated from the lower shaft. It looks like a spline that just pushes in to the lower shaft. I've tried taking by strips clapping to What's Left of the upper shaft and tapping loose but it's stuck in the lower shaft housing pretty good. I'm thinking about applying some heat tomorrow and trying again. Is this the right thing to do? I appreciate any help. Thank you

I follow you sir and appreciate your videos and the clarity in which you share. I recently asked a question about the setup of the throttle, and advance under the flywheel of my 1986 Johnson 150 and you referred me to a shop manual. I have been all over the internet and there are numerous downloads as well as hard copies. Marine.com offers a Seloc manual but the pictures in the example don't look very clear, this may be just a bad example, I don't know. Do you have a trusted manual with clear pictures and directions that you might recommend? I know its a matter of opinion but I would like to know yours if you don't mind sharing. Thanks

Good video thanks. Is Yamaha the only one that needs the power head removed to change the shift rod?

love your channel and videos..... Why do i have pressurized hot water coming from the front drain hole on the gear case on an Evinrude E60TLESM ? any ideas?

My question is regarding the Driveshaft Seal on a 1993 Johnson 150. I see that you installed just 1 seal in the driveshaft bearing housing. (It must replace having to install the 2 seals) I have both that I could install. The 1 double type seal and the individual 2 seals. Can you please tell me if it's best practice to install the 2 seals (Johnson Part numbers 0329922 and 0329923) as shown in the schematic for Johnson Evinrude BRP 1993 150 25"shaft counter rotation. or just the 1?

Another great video thanks, and strange timing for my part. I have just been boxing with my 50HP evinrude for 3½ hours today, in vane. It overheats in idle. Sensors looks good. thermostat replaced, and water passing through, impeller replaced and housing looks good, oil looks clear and fine. no burned smell in cooling system. You have any advice to a desperate Scandinavian?

Hi Stu. I did notice that it has a hydrofoil fitted,has this improved the performance or handling at all do you know?. as I am thinking of putting one on my yam 40. cheers.

¿How do I do to know what year is my Evinrude 140 hp 2 strokes?

The kit didn’t come with the o ring for the drive shaft ?

you fixed the second had on your tire clock yet?

I think I have big problems the shift shaft bolt must be rung off there is no bolt head there only see like a pin. Is this right and how could I fix to get the lower unit off? I have a 1994 115 hp Evinrude

Stu another good video. Did you pressure test lower unit first before disassembly?

Sir can the lower unit drive shaft rotaion from clock wise to counter clock wise? Tia

Hi Stu, as you were fitting the impeller down over the Woodroffe key, I got thinking that the grease you had put on the I-D of the impeller was mostly lost as it journeyed down the length of the shaft, and could likely have used another dollop, but in the end, you did get it to work. I wonder why they chose to go the route of using a Woodroffe key instead of just using a shaft (or shear) key. Any benefits of W/key over shaft key there ?

I have a Yamaha 200 just wondering when changing my shift seal my shift shaft pulled up a small amount and when right back into place, my question is can it become out of adjustment or is there just one way

if you turn the drive shaft anti clock wise when installing the pump will it correct it's self once you start the motor up or will it just reck the pump

watching this video, I realized that water is actually between the prop shaft housing and the base plate where the impeller sucks in the raw water. Meaning the space between water pump and driveshaft housing is not water tight. So it is the drive shaft seal and drive shaft housing seal, keeping water out of lower unit. Water pump housing seal under base plate just keeps suction for impeller tight. When reading, a bad water pump housing seal is the cause of water in lower unit, is miss information then. Am I thinking this through the right way?

So that play on the impellar isnt a big deal?? I have that same play

Do you worry about torqueing these fasteners to spec? Most mechanics I know just go with "it feels tight enough" unless it's an extremely critical component like full engine rebuilds etc.

I realise it’s been a while now... but their website says they only ship and sell to the US now? Any recommendations for aussies to get parts? Or just use freight forwarding 🤔