How to Replace the Water Pump on a Johnson Evinrude 85-300hp Outboard 

Excellent post/video. Just got through change my water pump on 250 Johnson. Video was spot on. Thanks

Thank you for this video. It helped me figure out 1 small thing I was doing wrong and saved me money.

First of all, thank you for taking the time to post this video. After watching it and reading some comments I installed a new impeller kit in my 200 today. Problem I'm having is getting the foot back on. Mainly, the shift shaft wants to push back to neutral every time I attempt to reinstall. Maybe I'll get it figured out. Thanks again.

I helped my buddy do this today. never worked on a marine engine before...very interesting & fun to try something other than cars & trucks.

YES. HUGE MISS IN THIS VIDEO! There is an O-ring that goes between the stainless cup and plastic housing that needs to be carefully glued in!

I have never worked on an outboard motor in my life. Just successfully changed my impeller with this video. Thank you!

Very great video, I feel confident to do this job when my parts come!

Very professional. The manual has you insert the impeller in the housing first. This method is MUCH better

Great video, helped me out through the whole process on taking my lower unit off my 225 HO

Great Video. I did not know how to do the job so I went looking. I also found your site with all the parts I need. Once I take it off tomorrow I can order the parts needed. Excellent find on the internet.

This is a great video. After watching I attempted to replace my water pump. It did not go well. Comments below are the result of my personal experience replacing my water pump on a 130HP year 2000 outboard. First to access the shift rod bolt you need to remove lower cowing on the left side. This is very easy and only requires the removal of 4 bolts. Second the gear case on my motor is a V6 and very heavy for one person. Get help. Removing a SSTL prop really helps with the weight. Third "this is critical" It is possible to install the gear case with the water tube going up to the engine not in alignment with the water pump outlet. This will deform/crush the copper tube that supplies water to the powerhead. (guess how I learned this. I badly crushed and deformed the tube by trying to install the gear case by myself. I spent 2 hours reshaping the water tube. The other option would be to replace the water tube which requires pulling the power head and a weekend) After attempting to get the deformed water tube back to reasonable condition I reinstalled the gearcase with a helper so I was positive that the water tube and pump outlet were in alignment. My unknown at this point was did I get the tube in good enough condition to properly engage the pump outlet grommet so I would maintain water pressure. To answer the question I installed a tee in the water indicator line and ran a small tube outside the motor to a 0-30 PSIG. I took the boat to a local lake and I have 8 psig at 650 RPM and 30 PSIG at anything above 1500 RPM Not sure what it should be but seems to be OK. Hope you can avoid my problems by reading this.

Very good video, it filled in some questions I still had after watching many other videos, thank you.

XLNT video - including visuals, text & commentary by Miz Miracle... Thank you all from Oslo, Norway !!

Excellent video... very well paced and very well filmed. I guess the only thing missing is a list of parts, kits, etc. that we can buy to get this job done. Thanks for taking the time to make this, it's really helpful.

TY for this video. My linkage was completely different, but all else is the same. I have a 1989 Johnson 88 SPL....

Be sure to install the little O-ring in the plastic housing before gluing in the stainless steel cup!!! Also, it is normal for water to come out from the lower engine mount covers on the midsection.

best how to i have ever watched thank you

You forgot the O ring between the cup and housing and also the one on top of shaft...made me do the job twice...

Thank you for the video, a lot better than the manual! Saved me time.

Nice video. Easy to follow

After all was said and done on this well done video, I count extra O-rings not mentioned. I am betting one goes in to the composite housing before putting on the stainless cup. There appears to be a groove at the center of the housing for it. All throughout the video you see 5 rings and only 3 are mentioned in the installation. When the soap is being rubbed on the wear plate, you can see down inside the housing and still not see an O-ring. I will need to go back and find the diagram of what goes where. I followed this video exactly when I changed out my water pump and had left over o-rings. Water flows, but my motor heats up at high speeds. I have to go back to find out what I did wrong.

Thank you for the video, question. What if I install impeller into cup first, is that possible?

At minute 4:20, when you placed the impeller “cup” inside the housing, did you intentionally leave the “O” ring that is supposed to be placed between the cup and the housing off the new pump for a reason? I just rebuilt my pump, and the old pump did not have that “O” ring there neither. Thank you for the instructional video, it’s been the best one I’ve found for my 1988 Johnson J110TLCCA. Other than that question I have, great job on the “how to”. Thanks.

Nice Video. I've spent a few days trying to figure something out. I am swapping lower units. The one that I removed has a STRAIGHT shift rod (not even sure it's the correct one. I was Bait & Switched). The replacement one, has a bend at the top. Which is correct? If the bend is no good, do I just remove the straight one, and put it on the replacement? It's a 1994 150 Ocean Pro. I'm using the lower unit, of a 1996 200 Ocean Pro, which I believe to be compatible.

Very good video, thanks

Very well done.

XLNT Video ! Here a note on Disconnection of the Shift rod/shaft from the shifter pin in front of the engine : There is a) the small bolt to be unscrewed & b) a tiny "hair pin" to be pulled that needs to released on the shifter pin before the shift rod/shaft hole is freed from the tiny pin on the shifter bracket. a & b must be released before one can c) push the shift rod from starboard to port (gear side towards center) out of the shift rod/shaft hole - and opposite to reinstall. A head lamp is good for light. No need to dismount the lower cowlings or the carbs. (on OMCs 1993-97 115 HP & 175 HP 60degr.)

I just got my 1996 Evinrude Ocean Pro 90 V-4 back together after replacing the water pump. I am not sure if this engine is unique, but there is no video on RU-vid showing how to disconnect and then reconnect the shift rod. The connecting bracket is in the front/center of the engine held in place by a 3/8ths bolt. Access to the bolt is blocked by a rubber hose and its clamp. Putting the shift in reverse buries the bracket almost completely, so I put it all the way in forward. The only way to get access to the bracket is to remove the air cleaner(?), lower cowling halves, disconnect the shift cable end, and a cotter pin to allow you to move the shift lever linkage shaft to port, which disengages the bracket from the shift rod end. Remove the bracket bolt using an open end wrench to allow you to pull it to port side as far as necessary. My bracket wouldn't come off the shift linkage shaft, but it came far enough to disengage from the shift rod end. Re-installing is a real bear. Raise the shift rod up with a needle nose pliers or vise grip to give you the best chance to be able to rotate the shift linkage shaft up far enough, to line the bracket pin with the hole in the shift rod. Now comes the hardest part. Tap the bracket pin through the hole in the shift rod end, tap the bracket back fully on and flush with the end of the shift rod linkage shaft and re-install the bracket bolt. This last part took me a couple of hours before I finally got the pin in the shift rod end. I suggest you hire someone to do this job on this engine.

Awesome video!

Excellent!

extremely helpful

Hello, just found the Video. Great Job, superb explanations. Just one ustion: What kind of Glue do you use for the Housing and the O-Rings? Will some 50200 do or do I need something special? Regards from Germany Ulli

Great Video..very well explained. May I ask, does this video apply to a 1994 115HP Johnson V-4? Thank You..very professional!

Of all self help videos, this is one of the best. It starts with the issues at hand and finishes. I give this a A+

For E50TLEOD - 1995 Evinrude 50HP Is the bolt that holds the shift shaft in place. Location to change the water impeller at the top or bottom.

I am writing this comment on Sept 29, 2023, in order to add some important clarity as to what is involved in changing out the water pump on an OMC V-6 outboard engine. The subject video indicates that it applies to all engines from 85 to 300 hp. My OMC is a mid 1980s 150hp V-6. If possible I will include a photo of its exact “ID plate”. This video begins with a very quick comment advising that first you disconnect the “shift rod” LINK so that you can drop the lower gear case, then allowing the new water pump to be installed. They give a very quick 4 seconds of video showing that “disconnect” proceedure. (See video 18 seconds to 22 seconds for this disconnect) NOW I WILL TELL YOU that it took me well over one hour just to find that disconnect point TODAY on my 150hp OMC V-6 !!!! It is a slotted head bolt that’s about a 5/16” head. That bolt head faces toward the port side of the engine. It requires a screwdriver that is 12” long just to touch the head of that slotted head bolt, it is so deep within the engine. Once I found it it was so buried within the interior of the motor that although equipped to photograph the disconnect bolt I was unable to do so. On my motor that bolt is about 10 inches in from the port side cowling’s edge. Further it is in back of and below the lower most carburetor. It CANNOT be reached from either the front of the motor OR from the starboard side of the motor. MY POINT HERE TO YOU READING THIS IS - - IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE SUBJECT BOLT EVEN FROM THE PORT SIDE OF THE MOTOR. I am an experienced mechanic with many decades of having done this kind of work. IF you do remove the subject shift linkage bolt you will then be tasked with reinstalling that bolt after you replace the relatively easy water pump. Realigning the two pieces of shift rod and then putting the bolt back into that assembly will be the closest thing to “brain surgery” that I can imagine. You will likely drop the bolt int the innards of the motor’s swivel mechanism and that is when your real troubles will begin. As good as the subject video is as regards the actual water pump change it is terribly flawed in not thoroughly addressing the problem of the shift rod disconnect and reconnect. I’ll include two important photos if this video allows that. Apparently unable to add photos. THIS IS A JOB FOR A HIGHLY SKILLED MECHANIC WHO HAS DONE THIS EXACT PROCEDURE MANY. MANY TIMES.

This is the BEST video I have ever seen, I have searched for weeks. I did all this and it is still not pumping water, any ideas what to do? Thank you, Ed.

Another thing that was not covered during the installation of the lower unit back into the outboard. There is an inner water tube that needs to be inserted into the pump housing for the water to get transferred. This is a big deal because that tube sometime will not line up, you have to coax it into the hole.

You missed showing the medium sized oring between the metal can housing and the pump plastic housing before gluing it together. Once I glued the pump housing together with the can you can't get it apart again to put that oring in. I followed this video and don't have the water pressure it should be with an extra oring left over. I thought maybe it was for another motor style or something. It would also be good to note what size oring goes where. Obviously the large one goes on the plastic housing.

I have a 95 Johnson 225hp. I hope it goes as smooth as this vid.

Gracias !!!!!

If you have a 2006 Johnson the shave does not have a bolt it is a carter pin on the starboard side of the engine.

will this work for a evinrude 1982 75 hp?

why can't I find the shift shaft bolt on my 2003 90hp Johnson ?

For everyone trying to get the lower unit back on and cant get the shifting rod hole to line up w the pin i figured it out, adust the throttle either in forward or reverse till it lines up. Took me hours to figure that out

Do you not put the other o ring on the top of the drive shaft,???

Is this the same for a 85 150hp evinrude crossfire?

i know its a little late, but just my opinion: Pull the prop off before you start this job. This will allow you to inspect the prop shaft seal, and remove any debris or fishing line that gets caught in there. It also protects your prop in case of accidentally being dropped....

at the 4:58 mark, what is that O ring and why don't I see it on the shaft any more????

Nice consice thank you.

What happens if I don't put it in reverse because I have problems getting it to reverse, not if I misassemble the axle ???

I installed it as shown but my gear shaft is impossible to turn once I tighten the impeller kit down. Oh boy!

Do you not have to use a sealer between the upper and lower unit mating surfaces?

I didn't see you use the large/medium o-ring gasket. There are 4 of the o-rings. 1. under the housing. 2. that goes under the impeller. 3 that goes onto the drive shaft up top. and what's the 4th larger one for? Not the one under the housing. But the 2nd largest one. I have it too in my kit but can't seem to figure out where it goes. Maybe it's for another type of motor?

I followed this video. However I took my pump a part again as I did not install the o ring in the housing.

I assume that on counter rotating engine I would rotate prop counter clockwise when installing lower unit back in place

I put in forward instead of reverse. Now after assembly motor only goes in reverse? How can I fix this?

Great video I have a 2003 Johnson 90 that Iam going to replace the waters pump. But I hear that there is also a cutter pin that I have to remove beside the screw any help please

what glue do you using?

Is this the same process for 1999 Johnson 90hp?

What about the shifter linkage?

Where is a good place to buy a pump kit?

Great vid .. but one question. Why so much glue/RTV on the water pump gasket ,O ring..cover and stuff. It seemed that it didn't have as much when it was disassembled. Some people change their water pumps every other year. Figured it would be difficult to scrape the bottom aluminum housing and wear it down or score it because you have to scrape it off.

I have a friend the is selling me this motor. I want to know if it can be fix and around How much will it coast. 2000 -150 mercury xr6 outboard with 25 inch lower unit Top two cylinders over heated

What glue is being used please help. Thanks

The guy at the boat store didn't mention anything about using glue for the disk or the oring that sits in the housing. My kit didn't even come with a gasket. Hmmmm.

someone . that can help me Where can I order the parts and where is the model or serial number of my engine thanks

i think what happened ..due to inexperience..is, i failed to make sure it had the gear oil...then it filled with water...now the propellor sticks and it does not go into gear at all..someone told me i probably need the lower unit...its a 1976 johnson 115 HP seahorse outboard....would you happen to know what a repair shop would charge?..by the way..this was an awesome video...and it took me a long time to find this with a similar motor as mine..

Why do I need to disconnect the shifter?

If you do it like they show, it will be effed up, they did not put O ring inside housing, and some other mistakes, , so glad I watched the "Detailed Evinrude W P" replace ment video brefor all was back together

awesome video.. i did my 115 Johnson Ocean Pro just like that... what some ppl need to realize is that, its one thing if ur changing the impeller on a 3 to 5 yr motor, u may not have to do everything u did in this video, unless ;;theres groves'' like u said, which usually will not in a fairly new motor, but any motor 10 + yrs of age, u need to do these steps, its important , fuck its a must !!! grove on the medal or not, those things need to be replace, O'rings, Gaskets , housing etc.. u should have all them replaced... for the cost of the kit, or the cost of replace ur power head due to overheating, , well u pick !!!

i was surprised you didnt pan up with the motor running to show the pisser pissing

They didnt show the bigger than the fat o ring, I think it goes between the plastic housing and the metal bucket, then the oring in the shaft, the big oblong oring mating the plastic housing to the plate, the molded oring on the tube thing, then the selector seal. EDIT: n/m I bunch of ya'll noticed it too, my first time rebuilding a water pump, v4 130 TXAUM :D

I love how she just blows over the 2 most difficult parts of the job!! 1) disconnecting the Shift Shaft at the top, and 2) Re-connecting the Shift Shaft at the top. I can barely even FIND and SEE it on my engine. Let alone get at it to disconnect it!!! Oi Vay!!! All the rest is easy!!! In this video, the guy gets at it from the left side of the motor.? RIGHT!!!!! I looked from the left side, I can't see it on my engine.

Can anyone chime in with pressure readings before and after doing this project? I have a 2000 Johnson 200.

I cant find the shift shaft bolt =(

does the fat O ring slide to the bottom side of the impeller or the thing one? as i did the thing up and i put the fat one under the spline it buts too big in there was that right and i got a bad o ring then

Does an o ring not go on top of the impeller aswell?!

did you make a stand for the lower unit? or, what did you use to hold it up?

I have a boat when I try to start it up on the lake, it starts up then it makes a very loud popping sound then smoke comes out out of the water exhaust can anyone help me? It's an Johnson evenrude 33hp electric start

you guys didnt put larger o ring in impeller housing

I found on a 1987 evinrude 90 hp vro there is no bolt for the shifter and you can not release it when in reverse. leave it in neutral. pull the holding pin and push the shifting rod inword to pull the drive down. all the rest of the vid was great. they need to show more on this engine so people dont go crazy trying to figure out how to pull the drive.

So I removed shift shaft linkage bolt and dvery other bolt necessary and the lower unit will drop about an inch but seems to be stuck. Am I missing something? Any tips please? I need help on this.

Take the prop off--before you replace the prop grease the shaft

what was the brand of compound and glue used?

how do i replace water pump on johnson 6.0 model#J6RCDE SERIAL#BO1O6210 out broad marine corp.belgium

Can I get some of what ever it is your doing? I made a comment like 8 months ago then you send me this VID ? lmao.

what were the sealants and adhesives used? Looking at my manual it states to use OMC Adhesive M where it calls for adhesive, but doesn't state what sealant to use between the lower unit and the stainless plate's gasket.. OMC is out of business and am not finding a BRP equivalent for the adhesive

Do anyone know the torque specs on the bolt on the impeller housing and the 4 bolt that holds the gearhousing to the rest of the motor.?

Anyone know where I can get a workshop manual for a 1985 120HP Johnson?

What type of glue is used in this video? I have the same engine in the video.

i guess dish soap works, but isn't it easier just to use some tcw3 oil?

cant get the spines to line up when fitting it back together for the life of me... cant close a 10mm gap - i done fkd up

I had no problem with disassembly however getting the housing up to the motor is impossible.. something keeps getting in the way with a least 5” to go. Spinning the propeller and shaking the tar out of it isn’t helping at all???

In my case it was a real &*&%$ to get the shift shaft to align and get the bolt in (at 7:48). It is impossible to reach by hand, thus close to impossible to do anything to correct any misalignment. So the only solution was to make room to get my hands there, by removing the whole carburator assembly. After that getting the bolt in was a breeze. And then the whole carb set needs to go back in. But hey, if you can change and service the waterpump, you can also remove the carbs. It may well be worth your while.

No gear oil? 🤔

You forgot small oring under cup

How often should you replace it?

What would a basic repair/replace/maintaince job like this actually cost? Working on an outboard is a lot different than a lawn mower!

my boat gets hot and i repleced the water pump what eals could i be