My grandfather daily carried an 2" I frame .32 S&W Long (very much like the one in this video) but it had a smooth trigger and a "Tyler T Grip" adapter to make it more suited for double action shooting, Oh and he "bobbed" the hammer.
I began a career in law enforcement in 1973. The S&W Model 40 Centennial was my first CC/off duty revolver. Later I added a S&W M19 with 2.5" barrel. I still have that beautiful revolver but it is a bit too heavy and big to conceal under light clothes, so it no longer gets carried very much. When the Model 640 in stainless came out, I bought one and retired my Model 40. Now I am retired and still carry everyday and my current "most days carry" gun is a Model 642. I always liked the concealed hammer design and now prefer the light weight 642. I have many other CC handguns, autoloaders and revolvers, from .32 ACP to .45 ACP and everything in between, but the S&W J frame .38 snubbie has been my "go to" carry gun for more than 45 years. I still have all three, but the 642 is my everyday "using gun" now. I carry it in a DeSantis OWB leather holster, under an un-tucked shirt. It is outfitted with small Rosewood checkered grips and a black aluminum Tyler "T-Grip" grip adapter, something I have not been without since the 1970s.
I’ve carried/shot all my J frames set up the same way since 1968 when I began my career (retired 30 years later) and see no reason to change anything today.
@@craigfinley2507 The greatest invention ever! Far better than lasers, red dots and weapons lights for self defense handguns. RU-vid doesn't allow me to add links, so just put it in an eBay or Amazon search. Get some soon. Thank me later.
The J Frame snub has stood the test of time because it is the most instinctively easy to use in a panic situation by a newbie or expert can be shot from a pocket or even pressed against an attacker and can be counted on to fire.While I still like my autos I still won't sell my snubs anytime soon.
For a gun that I intend to slip into a pocket, the J-frame is the king. 5 shots of .38 special in a super reliable platform beats out a 9mm that doesn't like to run in the same size.
@@RaderizDorrety lcp max has been extremely reliable with 12x 9mm rds. The only firearm I ever returned was a Taurus .38 revolver that jammed randomly 🤷♂️ I do trust the SW bodyguard .38 I replaced the Taurus with my life though, but rather carry 12 rds on a slimmer more pocket friendly pistol package.
Another great video! I saw my dad get shot in the shoulder with a S&W .32 long many years ago. He survived but it was close. Anyone that thinks these guns are no good just don't know. Many thousands have met their ends from being on the wrong end of a .32.
You got that right Pablo. For up close social work, not one thing wrong with 32acp ball ammo. You need to have a fine filter with things spoken about here in the cyber world, then always use two filters
Some years ago when I worked for FN we had an retired SGM who studied firearms fatalities. One night he asked the group "what caliber has killed more men than any other?" Lots of reasonable guesses, but none correct. The answer was .32!
I never ever felt undergund while carrying a .32 anything’ whether it was a 1903 colt pocket model or a Smith and Wesson .32 hand ejector’ anyone who says it’s not effective I dare them to stand in front of it’ Stopping power is a myth’ I’ve seen 250lbs of raging angry drugged up creeps dropped by a lowly .22 short to 110lbs of raging animal angry men take 7 shots from a .45 and walk into a hospital E.R.’ That myth is shattered’ the only differences in any of those cases was bullet placement’ I’d take a guy who knows his way around a .32 ppk or similar auto or same caliber revolver any day of the week and twice on Sunday over a guy with a 16 inch naval gun who couldn’t hit the earth if he was standing on it, all comes down too shot placement’ any caliber fired with accuracy into the central pumpkin’ will drop em’ all day long,
Nice bit of history there and congrats on snagging an I-frame. You really don't see those around in used gun counters often. My first S&W was a model 638-2 (pre-lock). The bodyguard. I actually dig the form factor because sometimes you want that single action shot. Later on, I was made aware of the model 649 in .357 Magnum. It's a solid chunk of steel and a good 7oz heavier than the 638. It's in the same form factor except it has a bull barrel on it that is a ¼" longer, so it doesn't fit my Kramer pocket holster for the 638. Another feature it has is a pinned front sight. I replaced the front ramp sight with an XS big dot tritium sight. It is quicker to pick up, but it is also less precise. The extra mass of the revolver makes shooting hot +P ammo more comfortable. I've shot 180gr Remington .357 Magnum HTP through it. I don't recommend doing a lot of that. In spite of the extra weight over the 638, the 649 is my pocket revolver of choice. As I'm sure you've discovered by now (I don't know if you did a video on it), retrieving a J-Frame revolver from a pocket is *much* easier and faster than any semi-auto because you have that large grip to grab onto. Obviously five rounds is a limitation many people can't live with, but if you need more than three 38s, you can have two 357s in there. I've heard them referred to as aces in that context. Great video. PS: Running Fiocchi 142gr 357 Magnum FMJ ammo is a great way to attract attention at an indoor range. You can feel it in your chest. And, after 100 rounds, you get to show your torn blood blister on the web of your hand to people. Yeah, I'm not doing that again. But I proved to myself I could shoot both right and left handed and center punch the target at 7 yards with magnums in a J-Frame.
Man, are you a refreshing NKD (non knuckle-dragger). When my ex-wife and I were dividing up our late dads' firearms (yeah, I know), I acquired an S&W Model 10 with a 2-in. barrel, which sparked my interesrt in smaller revolvers. Your channel's a great resource. Thank you!
I think the K/L/N frame trigger design is superior to the J frame trigger, but do agree with you and think both are very nice triggers. However, have you ever played with an old Colt DA revolver? As much as I love my S&W M69, I handled a Python and the the Double Action pull was just a delight. I always thought it was just myth about how the Colt triggers were perfect, but man, I will tell you the DA Colt pull is miles above S&W. The Python was around 5lbs DA and there was zero stacking. SA i would say I like my M69 better, but it's not stock. And it's possible the Python I saw had some work done. Issue is that I'm not willing to pay $3000 for a revolver.
I tried Colt revolver once I wasn't happy, colt's cylinder have you to pull back while S&W has a push button. Also S&W seems to have a friendly smoother trigger.
I just wanna say thank you guys for running such a professional channel and website. I will never again by ammo from anywhere else. Keep up the goodwork!!!
Being a person with a love of revolvers during the cooler seasons, I sure learned a lot. Thank you for the history lesson. And yes, the smooth triggers are indeed a blessing as I seldom shoot SA. Be well and safe
Got my first centerfire revolver in 2010. A S&W model 36 with pinned barrel, firing pin in hammer, case hardened trigger and hammer, hand checkered walnut squared grips and the most beautiful blue finish. It is deep mirror like bluing. I can see my reflection in the finish. My gun left the factory in 1966, according to a S&W rep and has the (then new) contoured cylinder release. More than just a gun, this model 36 is a work of art and a piece of history. They don't make'm like this anymore. Fuhgeddaboudit!
Kimber k6 / IRA 31.0 / 9.0 are the best I have handled. With Charter next then Tarus Rossi. SnW don’t seem to be interested in concealed revolver carriers. Fit n finish just ain’t there
@@johnwayne7476, I have little snubbie experience except for my model 36 and a Ruger SP-101 so I must defer to you for hands on knowledge. My Smith from the 1960's has excellent fit and finish for a 50+ year old handgun. If they have come down in quality it's a freakin' shame. Thanks for the input.
Marty Jewell ya they are just dependent upon the name the older handguns built . I’m sure they will say they can’t afford to build them that way now . It’s a lie. They are just greedy and don’t care. I was at a gun store a while ago and handled a S W a Colt a kimber and some tarsus . The barrel gap from the cylinder to the forcing cone was not worth the price they want for a brand new unfired side Arm with Tarrus and Charter being slightly better fit . The Kimber is exceptional for a gun made in the USA and although I’ve not handled one yet RIA is bring in some hand fitted revolver from somewhere in Europe I believe it’s probably close to the old west Germany level of quality, I have watched early reviews and the samples sent to the reviewers are top knock with Recessed cylinder and hand polishing to boot. It really sad concerning the state of American made classical firearms in my opinion. Like the old saying “ They just don’t make them like they used to “ you can apply that to the firearms for sure and possibly to the craftsman as well I suppose. Hold on to that snobby she is a sweetheart and should serve you well. I carry a 850 Polly 38 special 😏 it will bounce a soda can out to 50 yards all day long with 158 grain soft lead rounds . It’s every bit as accurate as almost any of them lighter and cheap . Like 200 out the door cheap. If I had a chance at one like yours and could afford it I would definitely pick one up.
@@mikewade386 Arizona looks OK, lots of good places. :-) But I have auto immune encephalitis - lots of medication, several seizures and intensive care hospitalizations on the NHS (would be $200,000 in US). Health insurance would be pretty pricey I guess. My lovely wife have a great family here, pro DJT. Mine still think Biden won (orange man bad!) - crazy. Mind you Greece is introducing 100 euros a month fine for the unvaxxed elderly - may be coming to the UK one day. Dark days all over. From dark comes light. God Bless.
About 5 years ago I shifted from my M&P Shield 9 mm to a 442 J Frame, and haven't looked back. It was supposed to be for summertime carry only, and then shift back to the Shield in the Autumn. However, I didn't specify Autumn of which year. Nothing wrong with the Shield. But the J Frame is just magical. The only thing I disagree with you on in this excellent video is the grips. I swapped out the original synthetic grips for the old classic checkered wood, and couldn't be happier.
To each his own Matthew. I personally would not trade the stock grips (butt or combat) on the Smith J's for any I've seen. The ultimate for comfort, durability, and low maintenance for me.
@@andyostertag We are in absolute agreement. I find the old classic wood stocks more comfortable, but the real reason I switched is I like how they look. It's all personal preference. 😀
@@BELCAN57 practice will teach you that the 1-7/8" barrel will be as accurate as you are. Please view the video from Silverado Shooting Academy on "Mastering the Handgun". Practice, then watch it again, and then practice some more. Wonderful insight on taming the reactive response within
I love the S&W .32 revolvers. The one like yours became the 30-1 (there was a 31-1 which has a square butt and is the only time S&W ever used a model number to show something as minor as a grip profile change). Several years back, while still and active LEO, I developed some rather severe osteo arthritis (Oddly, I'm 10 years older now but overall much better ... which speaks volumes for the demand of the job). Anyway, Shooting (something I practiced a LOT) was frankly too painful for a while. I was always enamored with the .32 S&W Long (and .32 acp) and my department had a .32 Long S&W 31-1 in inventory which I got issued as a BUG/OD piece. Meanwhile, I kept seeing these S&W 30-1 J-frame snubs and badly wanted one as I much prefer the round butt grip (square butt may be better for shooting ... maybe ... but the roundbutt carries better). Only whoever had them was VERY proud of them and I saw ridiculous prices. Well, in my time of need (very tender hands and all) I found a VG condition S&W 30-1 and got it for $200 out the door. Obviously it takes any S&W J-frame grips so I upgraded from the skinny wooden stocks and off I went. I shot everything from RNL to full wadcutters (which oddly tend to be the hottest load depending on manufacturer) and some 115 gr hard cast LSWC loads. I even found some .32 ACPs that would headspace well enough to be reliable. My old agency kept some boxes of high quality .32 acp for some of the backup guns others used and they (Gold Dots) worked 100% and were even accurate and did not stick in the chambers. But that depends heavily on brand and I didn't want to trust the variance from one lot to the next for my safety using a round for which the gun wasn't really chambered. Anyway, I wound up choosing the 115 gr HCLFP rounds (Hard Cast Lead Flat Point) loaded by a now defunct manufacturer (but now Buffalo Bore makes what appears to be the same load) as my carry ammo. Deep penetration and in every medium I tested they yawed and even tumbled all the way through which produced a bigger profile than a hollow point would ... not that a JHP will expand at typical .32 S&W Long velocities anyway). Even those "heavy" loads were very mild (so mild my ex-wife, with her forearm held together with a plate and screws could shoot it). I've shot a lot of J-frames and carried various ones, and I know they can be surprisingly accurate but between the .32's accuracy and the very light recoil, I could shoot this tiny revolver not only accurately, but FAST and accurately. I'm a big believer, having seen what happens when bullets hit bodies, that insofar as handguns its 99% "Where" you hit them rather than "with what." Today I still tote that little J-frame sometimes and it remains my front room "go to" handgun in it's discreet case for in case trouble comes a-knocking. If anyone decides to carry one (oh, and I also have a S&W Hand Ejector .32 I-frame with a 4" barrel ... I really like the I-frames), be aware not all ammo is created equal! I was once qualifying with mine and chose to use some inexpensive lead round nose ammo I'd found (I want to say Fiocchi, but it might have been S&B or another import). While doing course-required "draw and fire five shots as fast as possible" (course based on a 5-shot .38), my earplugs fell out and I (foolishly) continued the string of fire anyway. My ears did not ring. Now, I'm sure damage was done (they ring ALL the time now), and admittedly this was outside, but if those rounds were mild enough to not make my ears ring I can't help but think they would not have been the best for self-defense.
I believe you would find the book "American Gunfight" by Stephen Hunter and co-author Bainbridge very interesting. It chronicles the attempted assassination of President Truman at Blair House in 1950. The authors profile the LE officers on duty, their training and weapons issued. The encounter is itself is broken down , as is the history of the two gunmen and their weapons.
In 2018, I inherited my Mom's S&W CS Model 36 .38 Snub-nose Revolver, which was manufactured in 1973, and she bought it in 1977 - '78 (or so). To my surprise, although I never saw her ever shoot it, apparently wherever, or "whomever" she bought it from, had never fired it either. As I was buying a S&W Model 29-1 .44 Magnum at the gun store that is around the corner from my home about a month ago, I happened to mention my Mom's Model 36, and they said they'd LOVE to see it. Nearly every employee behind the counter just went nuts over this little .38 when I brought it in to show them ... "especially" when THEY determined that it more than likely had never been fired before. So now, I have this beautiful little S&W .38, that is now 47 years old, but has never been fired ... and I can't seem to bring myself to fire it either. -- BTW, it fits perfectly in my pocket, lol.
Oh I know it’s old folk to you but anything that is new about the pistols we have. I love watching the info about different pistols most I have and teaches me how to field strip. That’s the best thing. Way to go god bless America.
I've been following and enjoying this series. One of the issues it seemes with 380 pistols is problems with malfunctions. I'd like you to check out the Taurus spectrum. All the reviews I have seen said they will not malfunction the matter what type of ammo you put through it. Also the gun seems different enough from other to similar pistols that it might be worth looking at.
I really like my 632-2,SS,327-Fed-Mag,sku#178046. SS is a bit weighty but the durability & performance makes all the difference. Handles 4 cartridges 32S&W, 32S&W-Long, 32H&R-Mag,327-Fed-Mag. Too bad it's now archived or I'd have another for dual shoulder rig.
@Liverpool 11 : Yes sir. The little "J" frame is a sweet piece and being SS with the fluted barrel it is quite charming. I put an Apex duty/carry spring kit in it and polished the sear. Shoots like a dream. SMOOTH! Definitely not for sale. This one is going in the casket with me. :-)
My dad bought one of these in 1969, passed it on to me in 1985, still have it, and still in mint condition....very good quality, fires well, reliable. Very nice little gun. Packs a wollop as well....
I don't know if this is still the case, but it used to be common to refer to serrated triggers as 'target' triggers, and smooth triggers as 'combat' triggers. This makes a lot of sense when you think of single-action precision shooting vs double-action combat shooting.
How true, but I'd like to find out if any actual tests were ever made to determine if the serrated triggers made single action shooting that much more accurate. My older Ruger Security-Sixes had serrated triggers, but I was happy to see the old triggers go and could never see any difference in my own limited shooting as far as accuracy between single-action and double accuracy. (It was was the modern replacement springs that made the difference!)
@@johnroberts6695 Well, I guess accuracy is up to the shooter and their technique. I do think that serrated triggers give more tactile feedback, and in that sense, they are easier to develop good technique with. They also stop your finger sliding laterally in the trigger, and that is also going to help with consistency and therfore accuracy. It could well be the opposite - a serrated trigger would be uncomfortable as hell if you were shooting a high volume of ammo in double-action mode ("combat" shooting). Maybe the serrated trigger is the standard, and the smooth combat trigger is actually the "enhanced" version.
Forgot to mention the original Chief's Special, the "Baby Chief" built on a stretched "i" frame to accomodate the .38 Special cartridge. It has the smaller grip and rounded trigger guard profile of the original "i" framed .32 and .38 Smith and Wesson (.38 short").
Ive preferred my nickel model 49 for carry in summer months , very easy to conceal and laser beam accurate at 7 to 10 yards , Never felt “ under gunned”
Just pull the trigger again? What about a hangfire? "Click" "Boom" "Boom" Threat neutralized. Ten seconds later... Powder ignites on the seemingly dud round indexed with the frame... "KaBoom!" goes the gun...
Until a small spring fails and the gun locks up, or there’s a high primer, or a bullet backs out, or a multitude of other things happen. I love revolvers and even carry them often, but they can jam just like any other gun.
Early this year I picked up a really nice stainless Model 36 for $350 plus I traded in 2 youth .22 rifles. Its one of my favorite guns and is one of my two EDC carry guns, the other being a Sig p365.
I am a 35 yr LEO veteran and still have my issued SW Model 10 and off duty SW model 36 Chief .... still use at times my chief as an off duty carry . both are sentimental firearms for me that I will hang on to .
Put 50 rounds of .38+P through my dad's '60s chief special when I was a skinny 13 year old. It felt like I broke fingers for 2 days and could barely write at school Monday. Once I tried the LCR When it was released, I never looked back. It's not just the grips. The polymer frame absorbs so much recoil. After learning Jerry's shrouded hammer j frame pinch grip, I'm finishing the ammo My dad and brother won't. With their ultra lite Smiths (which may or may not have the better trigger). It never ceases to amaze me, Help profound recoil Of those old school, slim wood grip guns are compared to the modern LCR.
1000% sure the chief wasn't rated +P and the only things saving me from a detonation was the old school quality/craftsmanship and my hand absorbing all the shock.
I have conceal carried a S&W Centennial .38 for almost 30 years now. The shroud makes it a really great carry gun, especially in certain situations. The average gun fight in NYC is 7 feet...... it does the job.
Bravo Chris and thank you Lucky Gunner; this was a GREAT video - I only wish it were twice as long - with wonderful historical and technical details that tie seamlessly into the design evolution of Smith snubbies. I’d also offer one personal observation: I don’t believe too many of us would feel that a mid-1950’s “ordinary” sedan was a fully desirable vehicle now (approximately 60+ years later), although we certainly might cherish it as an “artifact.” However, that ‘sixtyish” J Frame (in good repair) is still a reasonably effective defensive tool. I don’t suggest that modern handguns aren’t superior in many respects, but a competent shooter could probably handle the vast majority of defensive scenarios with that early J Frame. Doesn’t that absolutely indicate the enduring value - and effectiveness - of Smith revolver designs?
With the grip adapter, I've managed some pretty respectable scores on a few drills (without the grip adapter, I have a hard time not fumbling the draw). I wouldn't be terribly upset if I had to carry it, but I am glad I have more optimal alternatives available.
@Lucky Gunner Ammo: You might want to consider these: www.eaglegrips.com/107-secret-service-series. For a couple generations, Eagle’s Secret Service (or Treasury) grips were felt by many to be the perfect complement for the J Frame’s basic design. With this recommended, I’m not suggesting that early J Frames are perfection, only that they continues to stand the test of time.
I have heard many good things about the Eagle Secret Service grips but haven't been able to justify the price. I don't really love the finger grooves on any of the J-frame grips, to be honest. My favorite snubby grip is the compact Crimson Trace unit (model LG-405). Even without the laser, I really like the shape and feel of those grips. Very few compact J-frame grips actually cover the backstrap, but I prefer that because it increases the trigger reach which is ideal for my long fingers.
@Lucky Gunner Ammo: Well, Chris, not only do I appreciate your replies but - some years ago, after I decided to “upgrade” my J Frame with an SP-101, due to its “tank like” design and its 3/8 inch longer barrel - I, too, opted for a Crimson Trace to replace the Ruger stocks. I was “revolver bred,” and while I now principally carry autoloaders, that SP-101 (with the Crimson Trace laser and loaded with the Federal 130 grain +P Mico HSTs that you recommended) is a very formidable defensive firearm (for any situation I’m likely to encounter). You should also know how much I appreciate your factual, flawlessly presented, and extremely valuable RU-vids . . . as well as LG’s willingness to underwrite your efforts. They are incredible valuable to our community (this is not embellishment).
Brought many of S&W flat latch two years ago. It was 5 shots. I like it and tried to get a permit to carry conceal in my new home in Maryland but I have to wait 3 months for permits that not guaranteed that I will get it..
I'm sorry to hear you moved to Maryland. I removed myself from the liberal utopia of Montgomery County in 2006 for South Carolina. My in laws are still in MOCO and are dealing with the same bs in regards to cc.
My grandmother died and I got her Chief's Special. It's one of the originals with the flat latch. HE had bought it for her because he was a truck driver and was often gone for days at a time. She replaced the original grips with these cheap plastic one that she wrapped in electrical tape. I cleaned the gun up and replaced the grips with mahogany panel grips
The Chief's Special (the name, the model number is 36) was made with an exposed hammer. Many user (being one of them) would remove and clean up the 'root' to assist in avoiding snags. Similar, the trigger was 'slicked' by many shooters; not just on the five shot J frames, but also on the larger K frame revolvers. Finally in the 1980s S&W started offering a smooth trigger. The wider sights are faster to acquire (line up on the target) than the older smaller sights. I agree that is a plus for serious use. However, I learned to use the old, narrow sights and they serve well. Grips: The serious shooters would change the grips entirely - several companies made replacement grips - or installed Tyler T-grip adaptors. I use a high grip to bring the axis of the barrel into line with the axis of my shooting arm. The grips that lower the grip are counter productive in that regard. Small revolvers "relevant"? The only way in which the J frame revolvers are not 'relevant' comes from the "combat pistol" gun game. The discipline which requires several reloads under time and thirty round bursts. Light weight handguns have a built in disadvantage. The lighter the arm, the greater the felt recoil. Especially with high performance ammunition or heavier calibers (.357 Magnum, for instance).
Thanks for explaining all that. You can’t find that stuff out, you just have to run across someone who is knowledgeable and listen a while. I have a Rossi .32 (3” barrel) and all that frame stuff was confusing when trying to find a good holster.
I just picked up a Pre-model 10 yesterday at a gun show in Muncie. It has a c prefix in the serial number, so I think it was made in 1948, which would make it only 1 year younger than I am. I can't wait to go shoot it.
I got a "Bodyguard" .38 spl. For my wife. It had a serrated trigger, which i had smoothed and rounded. 25 yd. accuracy is pretty damn good, too! A good set of grips helped, as well....
I have one of these from 1947. I conceal carry it when I wear khaki’s. The larger snubbies can rotate in the bigger pockets, but this revolver is small enough to stay put in the bottom of the pocket. I end up with a wired grip on this to keep it in place when firing, but it works and makes it point-shoot well. I have orange high-vis paint on the sights for rapid acquisition.
To expand on the idea of how sights were used in the early days (mostly in single action) with many pre-war i/J frames like the .32 hand ejector and regulation police, the hammer spur actually blocks the rear sight, so you have to cock the hammer to use the sights.
Excellent presentation from someone who obviously has deep knowledge of the subject. As a police officer in the 80's 90s I used to carry a 5 shot Chiefs Special stainless snubby 2 inch in 38 as a backup. (We carried K Frame Model 10's in 38+P as our main sidearm.) The exposed hammer was terrible on pants, so I eventually went to an AMT Backup in .380. I found the Chief's Special bucked like a bronco with +P and was a horrible little gun IMHO.
My how the year has flown by! I’m a sophomore in college now! My new friends from my first semester now are either my best friends or never spoke to me after we no longer had classes together lol. Thankfully more in the first camp. Awesome video, so cool that you got a .32 and ejector I frame. Still waiting on the 9x18mm makarov video comrade :)
Nice tutorial on both old and new J frame revolvers, but I’m from the older generation and prefer the look of the older model snubbies thus can/will compensate any of its shortcomings! :) EDIT..that being said I found a S&W 640 Pro and have feel in love with this version of a so called “hidden hammer” type of revolvers.
Tyler T grip adapters are awesome on K and L frames! They deserve to be rediscovered. They fit very well, slim/compact, and sized nicely for medium sized hands...not bulky like rubber or wood grips that seek to do the same.
The explanation of serrated vs. smooth triggers was something I’d never considered. I have a callous on my right index finger from an old M&P .38 with serrations. For SA it’s wonderful though.
My Tisas Fatih (Beretta 84BB clone) has serrations on its trigger too. For Double action? Oh, that thing wants to grate your hand, but after that first shot, the trigger feels great in SA. I like serrations but I also don't wanna shot a gun with serrations all day long.
Enjoyed this! My only snubbie is the final generation of the Colt Detective Special (.38). On my wish list are a S&W 340PD and Ruger SP101 with a 3 in barrel, in .327 Federal Magnum, that I would ideally load .32 H&R magnums in. Come on Santa baby!
8:27. I actually think that with the area behind the trigger guard filled, it'll make the gun *harder* to control because your hand moves down further on the grip so there's is more muzzle flip. That's what I felt with the SP101 I used to have. Factory grip didn't fill that area much so I got my knuckle beat up by full house 357; switched to Hogue, knuckle was saved but it was harder to do follow up shots: )
In 1965 I purchased a model 30-1 in 32 S&W long as my off duty weapon. Several months later I learned that my Department required the weapon to be 38 caliber or larger. The little gun went into a night stand drawer where it remains today. I purchased the gun new for $52.50. Over the years I have fired less that 100 rounds thru it. Over the years I acquire a model 36 in .38 special and a model 940 with a 3 inch barrel in 9mm. The 9mm model can best be described as "Rude".
Thank you. I love these revolver videos, especially on S&W revolvers but I really appreciate your straight forward insights. How do you get the information on the old guns? I want to learn more about my grandfather’s old 5 shot 38 revolver. The only ammo that I have run through it is S&W 38, not 38 special. The stamp inside is 1114 which I can’t find anything about.
I have one through every style of grip on da revolvers for years and for most have gone back to the standard service grip with a Tyler t grip. It gives the best compromise for grip , control and concealment. Tyler t grip company is still in business , so they are available. I have 3 round butt J frame 38s. All have this setup. One is a flat latch 36, the other is a no dash model 60 and the other is the best of the three. It is the pinnacle of the j frame development.60-7.It has a heat treated plus frame and the wider sights giving s picture more like a k frame model 10. The little Jframes are quite strong despite their size. The early 50 vintage revolvers were factory proof tested with 38-44 ammunition with no issues. I am more of aColt D frame fan , but still carry the J frames. I would not buy any of the newer ones with key lock or two piece barrels..
