33:27 look closely at the bottom of the engine while you rotate it - there is blasting sand/glass or metall blasting media falling out, and not just a few grains , the block is not properly cleaned out , you need to blow out the oil passages - id dissasemble tbh before this gets shoved into the new bearings on first start
I'm amazed and honored that so many people are watching close enough to have caught things like this over the years and then told me about it. It has really helped me out many times when I made a mistake or missed something. This time fortunately (for me), it was some junk in a coolant passage I had just noticed and ran a pick over to break up.
WOW...holy smoke...I had to watch that particular few seconds over and over 3x times to catch it... Sure enough..a pretty solid stream of "dust" fell out of one of the holes when the engine rotated over with the pan up...daggum!
Well during close examination I was not able to see anything. However 780 pixel is very likely the reason? Well done ya jammy prick! You have my respect sir.
I am a technician and simply blown away by some of the disparaging comments. I do this type of stuff for a living and let me tell you he is better than most professional technicians. The only gripe I could come up with was doing the the torque angle after the click on the torque wrench... not a big deal. A easy reference is each bolt flat is 60°. Love the videos, keep up the good work. 👍
I love the longer format for these videos. One tip my mechanic mentor taught me when assembling parts that have lots of bolts is to use locator pins to guide the parts together. He had a large selection of home made pins of different diameters. He cut the heads off of the bolts and then cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver. On oil pan, he would use at least four pins to locate and hold the pan and gasket in place while he started the bolts. This was especially useful when attaching a transmission to an engine after replacing the clutch.
Matt, I may have said this already but. As a Veteran Coast Guard Aviation Machinist Mate I'd fly in any airplane you rebuilt the engine. There's absolutely no doubt that if you'd gone to a Aviation mechanic school like Embry-Riddle you'd have graduated top of your class. Schools of that caliber including the Coast Guard Aviation Machinist Mate A school I attended demand a level of attention to details you achieve. You pay attention to even the smallest detail and admit it when you make a mistake and you go back and remedy the problem. Thanks for the entertainment.
Matt, I really hate to mention this, but the mismatch paint color between the block and oil pan is sure to cost you major points at the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. Sorry to break the news to you this way. 🤣 Love watching you struggle!
Matt, your desire to have surfaces very clean is the way to properly reassemble engines. You are so patient and a great teacher with easy to understand video angles. Blessings to you, Matt.
Two things that help (a little) are the "Shorts" videos on his YT page, and his Instagram account. Shorts don't get used much, but every now and then something pops up. Instagram has a little more. They're just single pics, but help a lot to give an idea of progress since last video.
Matt, an easier way to torque mains & rods is to turn the block sideways. Then you don't have to hold the engine stand while you pull the torque wrench. Same on the head bolts.
Matt, don't feel bad about forgeting to order a replacement part (like your harmonic balancer) when doing a rebuild. I'm willing to bet that any mechanic on this channel (myself included) has done it at least once. That stuff happens. I can't wait to see your engine all back together and be fired up for the first time.
A simple hack for keeping many different sized cover bolts is a piece of cardboard with the part roughly traced. Then the corresponding bolts get placed in order. It's saved my bacon a few times. Nice work by the way!
Way back in my misspent youth I rebuilt two lawn mower engines, two motorcycle engines (2 and 4 cylinder), and two gas car engines, both straight sixes. I got better with each project but never achieved the level of detail you do. I am pretty sure your rebuild is better than when it left the factory. Thanks for all you do - I’m probably never going to tear into another engine but it is fascinating watching your projects. Greetings from Snohomish WA. 😉
You know you can make your own orings with a oring set? Nice to have that option when you are in a pinch. You are doing a better job on this rebuild than I would have! 😂
You took more care rebuilding this engine than they did when it was originally assembled. Great video I am learning a lot. You would make a awesome teacher.
I love the attention to detail and you have no fear of jumping in and taking on any task. I would have loved to have 10 guys like you to work with back in the day
Hello Matt. I am an old retired Scottish pen pusher. Here's my take, for what it's worth. You got courage, young fellow. That's a complex machine you took apart. However, I think you deserve success for your courage. I hope, minor setbacks aside, that the whole project gives you real joy and many many years of use.
Matt, I am more than positive that if anyone would ask you anytime of the day or night to spell forward or backward the word PATIENCE you would pass the test, without fail within a split second of the request! It is just a tremendous pleasure to watch you work without complaints, just simply getting the work done and it is done simply when it is done. Just a very peaceful atmosphere that you create, with no expletives, etc. Congratulations! And we are waiting, almost as patiently, for the completion of the repair and rebuild of this peace of equipment and wish you much pleasure in operating it, in due time!
DYI tip... A roll of butcher paper kept at the back of the bench makes a handy pull out 'clean' surface for gasket dressing or taking apart debris sensitive parts. Or just keep pulling from the endless pile of amazon boxes for fresh cardboard!
Matt, when installing pistons engine oil is your friend. I have rebuilt numerous engines, from single cylinders up to big V-8s, I always dunked the piston in engine oil then put on the ring compressor. Makes them slide in easy and lubricates the upper cylinder on start up. As for break in oil use whatever the equipment mfr. calls for. Do not use any additives to it. The rings need to seat into the cylinders and friction is necessary to get that process started.
Yeah...regular dino oil (the cheap stuff actually) for the first few hundred miles/dozen hours Then switch over to your permanent expensive synthetic stuff Just make sure you use quality filters to catch all the initial "break in" metal flakes that will inevitably wear off the first few times the engine heat cycles
I remember my big brother taught me that after I'd fixed my blown head gasket. Said go get the cheapest oil you can buy and run that at first. To flush everything out. Then change it again to the normal stuff. Also had to drive around for half a day with it blowing steam like a volcano while it harmlessly boiled off all the water that'd gone into the muffler/tailpipe.
I bet that engine never had that kind of care when it was being built . You are doing a fantastic job. Love to watch your channel. Great work JeffinMaine
It's going to outlive its owner!! .. Imagine if it went up for auction and this video series was required reading to bid!! It could sell for the price of a new machine!!!!
Get yourself a 'Speed Brace". Makes spinning bolts in and out a breeze and you get feedback on the torque required so you can catch problems before they happen. Love your work.
I Just finished watching you starting to work on the trail through your property! What a beautiful property you own! And as you get used to your caterpillar, and it to you, I am very confident that all will get together the way you want it. Take your time to enjoy improving your property to enjoy its beauty and peace!
I'm sure it's clean enough in the cylinders, but from my very first days of engine builds I was told that hot soapy water was the best to clean the cylinders. You have to get some light oil on them right away or you'll get flash rust. I'm pretty sure that means they are clean of any old oil or packaging lube. Everything is looking great! Sure wish we would've had cell phones with cameras and the internet when I was doing this stuff. In my diesel engines Detroit Diesels I just used shell Rotella and changed it after the first few hours. My shrimp boat engines ran for years with no problems from lubrication.
I really enjoy your videos and the way you work. Maybe out of interest for you I did a small project on the clamping force of bolts whilst doing my Mech Eng degree. To cut to the chase I used a 1/2" UNC bolt and two metal plates, one tapped for the bolt and one clearance. Between the plates was a 1/8" soft copper washer. The clamping force of the bolt was measured by the crush on the copper washer. Three conditions were tried, dry, thread only oiled and tread and under the head of the bolt oiled. Three oils were tried thin sewing machine oil, 20/50 engine oil and EP90 gear oil. Predicably the greatest clamping force was the oiling of the threads and bolt head with EP 90 oil. The whole thing was repeated with a washer under the bolt head and that increased the clamping force significantly. Very few manuals adequately specify the conditions for torquing the bolt but if you are going near the yield point of the bolt it is important.
Enjoy watching this come together. I was already a fan of Area Diesel Services but liked watching them rebuild your pump. Thanks for bringing us along. Give Charlie dog pets for me
👍👍👍👍👍👍 as a diy daydreamer you give me hope, (maybe I’ll do something like this someday) as far as the tools and work conditions(like in the basement of a barn or backyard under a tarp) the harbor freight tools( that’s all what a lot of us diy’ers can afford), in the knowledge and skill department you are impressive, way above me , like you willingness to try stuff and to show and redo the mistakes, love the videos just the way you are doing them, honest straight forward.
As a retired mechanic I use to put the connecting rod bolts in then put rubber fuel line over them as you install the pistons in the block so they don't scratch the crank and always put the crank in first
This is a great tip I've done that on chevy small blocks. BUT it does NOT apply to this engine, the connecting rod bolts go in from the bottom, the rods them self are drilling tapped. There are no connecting rod nuts :) 28:40 20:50
Have one of these machines only person on yt to have such indepth info on these. I can't wait to get a garage to work in and *attempt* some of these jobs. Look forward to every vid.
Very good job! Nice little engine. I ran a EX100 for several years, back in the early 1990s, doing forestry work. Also its sister, the JD490. Very solid and capable machines for their size.I can't remember ever breaking anything! I liked the pilot control feel better than todays electric/hydraulic..and easier to fix. Also you have no DPF or DEF! Good luck with your machine, and thanks for the excellent videos!
Hey PNH, if you think about it, by the time you're done, you bought a pre assembled excavator kit that you disassembled and then reassembled. Now that you've shown me these kits are available on the open market, I may go pick one up myself. Thanks!😊
Another exercise in precision. I have no doubt she’ll tick like a Swiss watch. You gave us a long video and still left us wanting more so you’re doing it right. I’ll celebrate right along with you when she takes off and hums! 🥸👍👀🔧🔨✅❗️
The hardness of a rubber material is measured by the Shore Method for determining Durometer. Hard rubber materials would be used in high temperature application. Softer materials are used for better sealing in cooler application. The should be a Shore number on the packaging of "O" rings and rubber gaskets. Hope this helps!
A good trick for torqueing additional degrees i learned from Adept Ape is to mark the degrees on the outside of the socket with 2 lines then with the socket on the bolt make a mark on the part for a stationary reference, now torque from one line o the socket to the other. I didn't want to use a paint marker on my sockets so I use painters or masking tape and a Sharpe.
If I remember right, to get oil pressure without running the motor, we took the distributor shaft out of the distributor and put a drill on it, stuck it back in the hole in the block where the distributor went to power the oil pump and we had oil pressure. Not sure if you can do that with this engine. Great video, Matt.
Be very careful to avoid hitting the spray tubes with the rods when you install the piston and rod assemblies. In frame overhaul, we install the spray tubes last.
Thanks Matt for all your video, you are amazing. I myself own a small farm and recently just picked up a Hitachi EX100-3 with a ton of hours on it. Converted it to all Hydraulic with the kit, now looking at fixing her up over the next few years. Your video's on this are and will help with a lot of things I will be working on. Thank you for your great work, great video's and precise information . Be safe and looking forward to your video's.
Love all your videos. I just had to rebuild a hydrogear motor on a Snapper mower and don't you hate when they send you the rebuild kit with 15 o-rings that you have to figure out which one goes where. Also those little green grinder pads from Harbor Freight are great for removing gaskets and silicone from aluminum parts.
One job I had many years ago, I fit and adjusted babett bearings the same as this but each bearing block was the size of an large SUV :) It was for the steam turbine for a popular Electric Steam Generating Facility in my area :) I love it how when it comes to high horsepower bearings, nothing works like 200 Year Old technology!! I have several giant 'coins' of old Babbett, with a image of Isaac Babbitt himself cast into the face of the coin.
break in oil is often just a lesser quality oil. so don´t worry to much about it. put in regular oil and replace it ahead of time for the first two oilchanges
I have 20 years of selling auto parts. I'm retired now. I have sold the wrong parts to people who told me what they thought they had but later found that it was something different. So it's all part of the game
57:45, that camshaft end plug at the back of the motor, you should use Form A Gasket number 2 on the edges before you hammer it into place... Please don't ask me how I know😮 1:04:57 you did just that...
Re the ring markings the dimple faces to the top or if it has a bevel on the inside it also faces the top. If it has a step on the 2nd/3rd ring in most cases that faces down, except on the. Acl rings we got in South Africa in the 1990's. Just make sure about the rings again. BTW I like to use aresol chain lube for assembly, stuff sticks and works a treat!
Put a straight weight oil like 30 w . Do not use synthetic oil.The rings won’t seat using synthetic oil. The load and unload engine off and on for about 4 to5 hours. The rings will seat and linercrosshatching will remain.Thechange to synthetic oil. You will be good to go.
man i love every video you post i cant wait to see the next part and whatever the next project you might get up to personally i suspect a skisteer is probably in order
John Deere have a break in oil called "BREAK-IN PLUS OIL 10W30." Also you can change the sprayer on the brake cleaner from a mist to a stream by taking the nozzle off and removing the atomizer.
I am pretty sure I might want to punch a formula one engine builder after 5 minutes of them telling us how great they are. And never mention if something don't fit they have to call for help!
I like the use of the dressing on the paper/felt gaskets. I’m surprised none is needed on the steel timing cover gasket. It feels like steel would be more prone to leaks? I really like that watching Matt’s projects because it’s fun but also educational
John Deere makes an excellent diesel break in oil. Then use the best oil you can afford going forward. Use a high quality diesel coolant for long cylinder liner life.
Cant watch video at the moment but saw thumbnail and you should be proud. Wow, just Wow. Looking forward to taking time to savor the details of your work. Love the channel and the projects. Love how you stick through every detail to the end.
Good job Matt, but Continuing to turn the rod bolts after the torque wrench has clicked is a no-no. That damages the calibration of the wrench. Torque the bolts, then use a breaker bar to turn the additional 45 degrees.
Making awesome progress! I'm sure someone has already pointed it out but, it's not good to push a torque wrench past it's "click" point. Some will actually be damaged by this
Hey Buddy You are doing a Great job. I have done this a few times myself. You should not have to down talk you’re skills to make a viewer happy. They need to try this them self, that would prove it… I like your work , lets enjoy this job together on this video. 👍👍👍
