I know it's only a few minutes into the video and you're on the other side of the world, but "I can't believe it's been a whole year since I didn't sweep up leaves last year" is some extremely relatable content. Thank you for this as always.
Given the state of this vehicle prior to you having a tussle with it, that it failed on only those two - largely insignificant factors, is impressive. Nice work!
You owe the previous owner a big debt of gratitude. Without his ineptitude, think of how much less content you would have had! 😂 Also, I am impressed that the bearings weren’t ground into paste with one seal installed backwards and the other seal not installed at all.
Good to see your videos again. I have found that a large number of axles leaks on coil sprung land rovers are from the vent on the axle being plugged. I always remove them, clean the metal banjo bolt, and blow through the vent tube line. I have even found in most cases when it’s the pinion seal, that fixes it and the leak stops.
It's been a pretty good weekend for me, sent home from work for been hammered with a flu virus 😢, however since Friday morning I've re watched most of you videos again. My wife says I have two sicknesses at the moment 1 being land rovers I now have 2 and a half series 3s and thanks to you planning a full restoration which I never thought I do. Thank you mate for the fantastic and knowledgeable videos, by far the best on You Tube
Lolol… I just discovered your channel the other day, and I have to say, I like your……. “style?”…………. There’s something in every vid to amuse- today it was the kitchen pan with “garage” written on the handle…. because, you know………
Masterclass in bearing replacement. Only additional suggestion is to lightly grease the splines on the half shaft before reinserting it to provide a little less chance of them damaging the oil seal if they touch. IF they touch, I did note how much care you took in shoving it back in. Best vids on YT, cheers, Will
What kind of odds are that? I just out of the blue decide to watch one of Geoffrey's other videos and "wallah", fresh offerings from the land of Croker. Awesome, always love a little bit of fresh digital entertainment from Geoffrey. Thank your Sir and thanks for the fresh material.. Cheers!
I have been known to bend the lockwasher tab down onto the inside hub nut once pre load is set and then install the locknut (and bend the lock washer outwards). This often, though not always, prevents the hub nut from moving when installing the locknut.
I've had success in 3D printing single-use seal drivers. They're generally only good for one seal, but I usually only have one seal to install. Far cheaper than purchasing a dedicated seal driver, especially for one-off jobs like this, and can save destroying a brand new seal, which we've all done at least once.
24:45 “These stainless steel covers are cool, bring those back” OH GOD NO. I don’t know if it’s an issue in NZ but in Rust Belt, USA those sleeved lugnuts are HORRIBLE. Moisture gets in there and caused the Lugnut to rust swelling up the outer sleeve and you can’t get a socket on the worst of them, end up having to chisel every single cap off in the worst case. Ford seems to be the worst offender from my experience, but all American brands do this and it’s never pretty. I now live in the desert and I still see it from time to time.
Great work. I actually have the same symptoms on my classic 130. I did the seal about a year ago and it's dripping again. 99% sure there's some debris or the stub has some wear on the mating surface. Thanks for your vids... I'm barely starting to put out some content myself, but it's mostly me silently working on my 300tdi, lol. @ 25:50"So that's me sorted for another six months."... NZ requires inspection and reg that often?
Keep voting for the nanny state, maybe go to quarterly or monthly inspections. Its all about safety, not fleecing the masses. That way we get more videos Lol.
I love all your shows most enjoyable. Here's a tip for you. When applying Loctite put it on one of the bolts then grab another one and inter twine the bolts around each other . This way you only use half the amount and you don't require that much either if you do then there is something wrong with design i feel.
2:59 ... Hey that hurts my feelings ;-) --- not that you even know who I am .... You're 2 channels are my favorite by the way. You are my editing idol!
i use SKF LGEP 2 grease for wheel bearings. my subaru eats rear wheel bearings and they last a lot longer with that stuff. its expensive, and OTT for the application, but works amazingly well. doubles the life of them. I also use a grease packing tool instead of hand packing, its a game changer.
You can change the stub axle seal tracks on the series vehicles but not on them. They are part of the stub axle. Land rover yet again taking away good ideas.
the answer is much less grease than people realise. high temp no melt no shear modern greases provide the answer. grease extra to the bearing surface just sits there. a layer over the inner housing surface does stop rust. loctite 518 or 515 . rtv generally requires a thicker film thickness than two facing machined surfaces need.
Absolutely amazed by your videos on the channel👌. Though as a German and an engineer perhaps a torque wrench would help for those bearings (by datasheets) 😎
As someone who just replaced their 6-year old battery just 2 hours ago, I laughed 😂 pretty hard when the battery lost its vigor when it was time to get reinspected. 👍😎👍
note to past self: watch further! DOH...sorry Layman thinking out loud; the lock washer is indexed to the stub axle. Why not set your end float and bend the washer in to lock the inner nut, apply the outer nut and bend another area of the washer out to lock that nut? Would that cause a problem elsewhere? i see you did this but before you "torque" the outer nut.
Apparently you can replace the rear hub grease seal with an oil seal from a Range Rover classic, then leave out the half shaft oil seal so the bearings run in oil, better for the bearings in the long term but messy when the rear hub seal fails.
You can do the same on the front. Lets the bearings and swivels share grease or oil. I changed from 1 shot in the swivels and grease in the bearings toi oil shared between the 2 as water ingress killed my swivels and cv's. Now I can change the fluid in them every few years and flush any moisture out. As far as I know the conversion to grease was an attempt to reduce the number of warranty claims for leaky hubs rather than an improvement in lubrication
The method you described from the book seems a bit odd? The usual method of tightening up the bearings untill they no longer rotate with the wheel fitted to ensure the bearings have fully seated then back off untill it rotates freely but has no movement at the Outer edge of the rim is what I have used and would have thought would be the standard for all tapered wheel bearing hubs weather driven or not. The method in the manual is for a dual nut arrangement as it has but the idea of the end float is to compensate for the clearance the first nut has between the threads. Because the second nut pushes it away from the thread face that holds it in position. Think a static version of a newtons cradle. That sort of setting would have to introduce Rotor wobble and an easy 0.015" wobble on the road contact face if not more. A heads up regarding the empty space in a grease filled Spindle or Hub. Normally the idea is you want it to be filled with enough grease that if it gets hot enough for the grease to flow out easily that it be replenished. But in practice today if your hub is running that hot be it from brakes or load the grease is made to cope and wont washout and break down. The trick is the air gap however. Most problems stem from being quenched in a liquid or having liquid around the rotating lip seals. Rapid internal pressure changes that say crossing a river after 100 klms of travel or hot breaks soaking then hitting a puddle will cause a pressure change inside the sealed area. That strains the seals and water gets in. Hence the stuff like extended diff breathers. A small air gap is needed but a hot spindle should have a lesser amount of air inside purely to create more thermal mass to slow down any pressure change.
7:06 keep in mind that if you ever have to change that surface, but don't have the part (or in general any seal surface) there are options. The least complex and easiest to pull (with the caveat of having the luck of the right size available) is to sleeve the sealing surface. Thin sleeves come with a driver, you clean the surface where you want to put them on, give the place a good coating of slow acting metal glue (of your choice) and then drive the sleeve on. The more complex is to have that sealing surface ground down (on a lathe or rotary surface grinder) and then using the next size down of seal. I've done both to save either old, old parts or prohibitively expensive ones. Both are adequate methods if you find yourself in the pea hole.
It blows my mind that you have to have the state check your car. In the US, you can drive a car in pretty much any condition. You just can't have a check engine light when you get emissions testing done every three years or so. Also, a cop will pull you over if they think the car is unsafe, for example missing lights, dragging parts, or driving on the highway with a flat. But I've seen cars driven without panels, a hood, windows, and doors! The idea of the state hiring a mechanic to inspect you car would been seen as a HUGE waste of money here.
Personally I find the box spanner for the hub nuts far superior to the (52MM?) socket- reason being front half shafts. Also I have one of them tyre levers and its brilliant for a plethora of jobs on a land rover just not removing the tyres :)
Indeed. From what my American friends tell me, in many states vehicles never ever undergo routine inspection, which to me sounds like a recipe for disaster, but I must say, a mere six months between inspections seems like an awfully short interval, however, looking it up online, apparently in New Zealand that is only necessary for vehicles built before the year 2000...
No annual road worthy here in Western Australia. In fact, your car is only inspected when selling it or re-registering it, or the cops take an interest in that loud exhaust...
@Figulus yeah we don't have inspections in most states, and I've never found it to be a problem. A lot of the states who do have them only do emissions checks.
Since it had been leaking .. including you had a little come out when you removed the half shaft .. Maybe check / top up the oil in the diff ? Even change it while you are at it ?
You’re kind of right. Show up with a clean and tidy car and they’ll treat you well. Show up with a filthy neglected heap and every 50/50 call will result in a fail.
I've done this so many times, it's a job I love to hate. I personally use torque figures to set the bearings but I won't say what figures because they'll definitely be wrong in someone's opinion!
FYI - I'm pretty sure you can't replace the spacer/seal surface on late series 3 and rrc/defender/disco stubs. Need to replace the whole thing as the surface is integral to the stub. I'd be delighted to be wrong though!
Wof places are like that, get you to do all that work and when you get back to the workshop it almost feels a bit of a let down when they barely give a glance at the work you have done and slap the sticker on...
