I know very little about airplane design, I usually grab my foam board and cut, glue and sand untill what I'm seeing my head is eventually sitting in front of me. 80% of the time they fly pretty good and the more I watch these videos they do even better. It's been a fun journey.
I built a Jerry Bates short kit 1/5th scale Hawker sea fury it was my fist time building a short kit and there was not much instructions . but i had built a lot of kits and even a few scratch kits so i dove into it . It called for big thick Balsa spars for the wing so i instead cut my own spruce spars of smaller size but much stronger . i also had to figure out how to make the 3 door landing gear doors work together but after a few tries i got it right . then came the split flaps and again with trial and error i finally got them working good . the entire model was sheet with 1/8 balsa and then covered with 1/2oz cloth and west system epoxy un thinned and because i was a first timer at epoxy and cloth i dint squeegee the excess epoxy off . so all in all it turned out nice . it was painted with Automotive high build primer for the panel line taps and then sanded lightly with 500 sand paper and then painted with the colors with Latex house paint and then a coat of semi gloss Polycrylic and graphics from Callie graphics . all in all it turned out very nice but after all the servos and engine and retracts got installed and then time for CG balance i had to add about 6 lbs of weight to the nose . the engine and batteries was as far forward as i could possibly get them.the engine was an EME 60 cc 2 stroke . so the Sea Fury all up weight was around 36-38 lbs the maiden flight was not so good the engine was under powered for the weight of the plane and my poor choice of 4inch soft tires made it flip on landing and broke the vertical fin off. I have since then rebuilt it and have sanded the entire model down to remove some of that epoxy weight and have also rebuilt the firewall box and moved the engine mount 3 1/2 inches more forward . I am not good with judging power to weight ratios for gas engines i do ok with nitro engines usually just going up one size in power that,s recommended I am looking into getting a GAS radial engine but not sure what power size it should have . My Sea fury as seen on Callie Graphics callie-graphics.com/collections/hawker-sea-fury/products/sea-fury-800?variant=38000193165
awesome information,. very straight to the point,. great basic rules to follow for a great foundation. love the attatude. just build it and fly it, enjoy the fun and learn from experience. thanks a heap,. keep up these great videos and A Big Hello from Little New Zealand
I love expo. When I first tried it I added to much to one of my planes and didn’t really know what to expect snd had a terrible flight so I never used it until I build a really sensitive f117 and a friend at the field helped me pick a reasonable amount. I have never not used it since!
listening for my first scratchbuild and also first real RC plane and hearing that most wings stall at 15* AOA made me wonder how I can fly the F-14 on approach at 15 AOA but those are UNITS not DEGREES. Do we even need units of AOA for RC planes?
I thought you were gonna talk about the actual layout and designs of the wings and empennage more and was hoping for a bit of a deep dive on the super-stall characteristic of T tails and how a cruciform tail compares or what else you can do to mitigate super stall on either design. Cruciform tail is probably one of my favorites aesthetically, plus it's less likely to, well IDR the specific term but "stall" the rudder's control surface in either direction, quite unlike conventional tails in pitch up or (to a lesser extent) T tails when inverted.
Good vid! I use with great results inverted airfoil for h stab in high speed racers, almost no pitch adjustments, as for foamies, you're right, one of my favourite is a su35 full fuse but flat wing. As you say, pay attention to the little details, motor thrust line, wing and stab incidents, cg and you can fly a brick.
Hi your video is super helpful! I'm building an RC aircraft as a capstone project for UW, is there any way that I can access that calculator you made to calculate the ideal ratios? Additionally, what % of the fuselage should the cord of the wing be ideally?
THANK YOU, FOR THIS DETAILED, AND HELPFUL VIDEO!!! IMHO: THE BIGGEST ENEMY" OF MOST FLYING MODELS, IS "EXCESSIVE WEIGHT"!!! YOU CAN INHERENTLY SEE THIS, WHEN THEY HAVE TO LAND AT HIGH SPEEDS, AND SEEM SLOPPY TO CONTROL PRECISELY, WITH THE POWER OFF!!...(DEAD-STICK LANDINGS)
Let me start by saying this; The single most important component of any aircraft design is the wing. And the single most important component of any wing design is the airfoil. For example, I would never use a Clark-Y airfoil on a sport pattern model. I may not know as much as some other guys, but this much I know.
Dag I keep hearing you talk about "not putting in too much throw" however I've always heard the old guys at the field talk about how "you need all the throw you can get".... can you go a little deeper and help clarify how much you really need? How do you figure it out?
Great video Dag. Thank you. I'm designing a small shoulder wing vintage style (lightweight) 60" span RC model. What do you think about having the thrust line, the wing, and the tailplane all at the same level? The flaperons will be outboard of the tail. Some designs seem to have the wing and tail on the thrust line and get away with it. Are there any negatives? Thanks David
I have seen all sorts of planes with the wings and h-stab above, below, or on the thrust line. If it's a flat bottom wing, you will see different incidences versus full symmetrical. Some aerobatics planes have the wings and h-stab on the thrust line. You may have to tweak the incidences a bit, but it should work. I hope this helps.
