F-150 Cruise Control not Working 

Haha, glad to hear it!

Lol mine never worked in the 8 years I've had my harley f150 just kind assumes the buttons were bad lol. Had bigger issues ig with the 4r100 going out lol. Still got the truck will look into this.

Absolutely! I’m glad it helped!

Great to hear!

Hey, glad to hear it! No problem

Glad it helped

Wow, thanks!

Glad to hear it!!

Thank you. Glad it helped!

You’re welcome. Glad to hear it!

Glad to hear it! No problem!!

No problem. Glad it did the trick!

Absolutely! I’m glad it helped

Thanks! Glad to help. It’s a quick and easy fix, but let me know if you have any questions

@@GooseAutoWorks My 2008 had the sensor cleverly hidden, even Ford parts dept. was surprised at the location. Part is ordered, now it looks like the hard part will be to unplug the pigtail without being able to see it, any hints?

I think I remember something about the ‘08 models being different. I think my best advice would be a helper and/or mirror.

@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks, I used a mirror to finally find it and the parts dude at the Ford dealership was going to have one of the techs come out to find out how the pigtail comes off...I think he wants to know also! I appreciate the followups, I'll let you know what happens.

Well, I'm at a loss for a fix. The '08 F150 has no switch like described anywhere, and the one master cylinder switch that I purchased doesn't seem to do do anything. 'Car Doctor' ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F1hDcVYBA2k.html

No problem 👍

No problem, glad to hear it!

No problem. Thank you!

Thank you! I’m glad you liked it

No problem. Hope it helps

The part I used and have linked in the description is meant to replace the existing wiring harness. This is what I would recommend. Depending on what was swapped out (sensor or wiring) it could still overload that circuit. If the fuse is no longer there, the recall fix has essentially been undone.

Did it work?

Cool, I’m glad it worked. You should be good now, because it was the pressure switch that was the issue. With the newer one you shouldn’t have to worry about it

@@GooseAutoWorks My truck has the new style switch and it also leaked. I would 100% recommend keeping the recall harness. I'm going to try and replace the 2A fuse on mine and keep it.

You may have better luck on Amazon, but just show Ford the part number from the video

@@GooseAutoWorks I called them prior to going and they've already pulled it plus I only use Ford parts because my grandfather gave me this truck when I graduated high school and it's never had anything but Ford parts and I'm not going to change that now

The part number is a Ford Motorcraft part, but if they’ve got it on hand, go for it!

I’ve had my truck since I was 15 so I can appreciate the sentiment.

Only thing missing is “.” and “,” .

So 2004 was a split year. Do you have the same body style as the ‘05-‘09 trucks or the ‘97-‘03 trucks?

Motorcraft SW6350 Brake Repair Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYLZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_g4zCjGn7apGYy

Hey Michael. Thanks for the positive words! I’m not super familiar with diesels and based on the short description there’s a lot of things that could be causing your issues. Having said that, if I were to start digging into it, and what I imagine the techs will do it to look at these things first. Fuel injectors, make sure they’re not dirty or malfunctioning. Compression, diesels have considerably higher compression than gasoline engines and they arguably rely on compression more so than gasoline engines so if that’s off that could be part of the issue. The turbo may cause sluggishness during a load, but that shouldn’t have any bearing on the start up. Air filter, make sure this is clean. I doubt it would be the cause of everything all on its own, but piggybacked with other issues this could definitely make a difference as diesels will pull in a lot more air and need to breathe. Also if this truck has been sitting animals and insects could’ve started to build nests inside and that’s no good. Ultimately though I would look at injectors and compression, but injectors are likely the biggest cause here. If I had to guess I’d say they’re pretty dirty or going out. Especially if the truck has been neglected. Bad injectors would cause all these issues your mentioning, but the other stuff are probably things you’d want to check out/replace just so you know what condition you’re dealing with. I’d be interested to know what the shop has to say.

Hey there, welcome to the channel! For your year, you would need this part: amzn.to/3UsYJBY It is inside, under the driver foot well, behind the brake pedal.

For ‘05’s there’s a different cruise switch. It’s blue and white and located under steering wheel, up above the pedals. I would first check your brake fluid levels and see if there’s any visible leaking from your master cylinder

Sounds like it. With these cable driven throttle bodies sometimes extra slack gets introduced. Also you can actually watch the throttle pedal move when the cruise functions. I would double check your brake fluid level (since that’s what operates the pressure switch) and possibly swap your throttle position sensor. Does the truck rev or anything when the cruise is set? Does it act like the “Coast” button is being held down?

@@GooseAutoWorks Thank you for the quick reply. The truck does not rev when the cruise is set but more like you stated it acts like the "coast" button is being held down. Last week we had the brake system flushed by the dealer but the cruise wasn't working before that, either. So it has a fresh, clean and full reservoir of brake fluid.

My only guess would be a loose connection in the actual steering wheel controls or the cruise actuator. I'm leaning towards the actuator. These throttle bodies are cable controlled using vacuum for the cruise actuator. If there's a vacuum leak, it wouldn't actually operate the throttle body. The lack of an engine rev supports this as well. It's also free to check so I would look there first.

It would prevent the cruise control function from even operating, so in that sense the cruise light would not illuminate. If you’re saying your cruise works, but the light just doesn’t come on it could simply be a loose solder joint on the instrument cluster.

It sounds more like a bad clock spring

You’ll probably need this part here: Motorcraft SW6546 Cruise Control Switch www.amazon.com/dp/B00130L77Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8Y2X0E4PAJN3DWB8NK84 It’s under the drivers side dash above the pedals

It shouldn’t, no. If you used a pad compound that wears quicker than what was on there that would obviously do it. I would also check your guide pins to ensure the caliper isn’t sticking, keeping it engaged, although if that was the case you’d likely see glazing on your rotor as well.

Yeah, this will just work for the 10th generation trucks, ‘97-early ‘04, unfortunately.

@@GooseAutoWorks where can I go to find instructions on a 1993 Ford F150 cruise control.

Hmmm. I’m not too sure. I would inspect the fuse and sensor going into the master cylinder for leaks just to cross that off the list. It may be worth checking your other fuses and relays under the hood and in the cab. If I had to direct you in one direction first though, based off what you’re describing I would take a look at the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. It seems like the brake switch side of things is fine, but the computer can’t regulate the speed because it doesn’t know what to base it off of

It’s a 2002. Yours is going to be a blue and white switch in your driver foot well behind the brake pedal.

It can. Yes. Before I fixed mine, the “Cruise” light would not illuminate because it wasn’t working properly. Now that I have the cruise capability back the light turns on when I use it.

@@GooseAutoWorks Thank you !

😉👍🏻

This truck is a 2002. On a 2011 it should be a blue and white switch behind the brake pedal, on the inside of the truck. It is just called a brake switch if you want to look it up.

@@GooseAutoWorks thanks much!

If it was never replaced by Ford, it sounds like you experienced what the fuse was meant to mitigate: over heating and burning of that harness. If you remove the whole harness and brake switch, and replace it with the one I have listed, it should solve your issues. I hope this is helpful.

Do you have an inline fuse in the harness? That was the “fix” but the fuse frequently trips. The harness I install replaces that while preventing the overheating of the wiring.

​@@GooseAutoWorksYeah I have the inline fuse. How does the new harness prevent overheating? Sorry for my questions I'm new to this

@TimeCapsuleClips530 All good. It’s more to do with replacing the brake pressure switch than the harness itself. But it’s a kit and the replacement harness is what’s compatible with the new switch.

Did you use the part number I show or a different replacement?

Also, what year?

Was it capped or something? What year?

It's a 93 but, it's gotta' have master cyl. from something else. The whole truck has been that way, an AOD tranny and God knows what else! On the servo is the wiring harness and the actuator cable, that's all ! The cruise was working fine when parked the night before, the next day, it doesn't work ! Checked cc fuses in both boxes, they are good. I just don't know what to do !

Oh ! There isn't. any hole to cap , anywhere! It's just a regular master cyl.

Possibly. I would check your fuses and relays first though.

It’s likely your clock spring.

Depending on the year (2004 or newer) sounds like may be something to do with your IWE. either the hub itself, the solenoid, check valve or vacuum lines.

It’s in the description, but here you go: Motorcraft SW6350 Motorcraft brake pressure switch and harness: amzn.to/3fqV96P

Like “CRUISE” doesn’t illuminate when cruise control is activated?

What was it doing before? It’s possible the actual controls on the steering wheel need to be swapped out. Do you have any trouble codes? I wonder if the throttle is sticking or if your throttle position sensors is acting up

It doesn’t have to be. It just may be related if both problems are presenting at the same time. Check your inline fuse. That will be your biggest indicator. If it’s blown, consider replacing the harness and switch. If it’s not, there’s something else going on if your cruise isn’t working.

Those are the most fun though 😏

It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure it was a 2A fuse from factory. The replacement harness replaces it though.

What year? By replacing that harness you eliminate the inline fuse from Ford, but I would check any other fuses and relays related to the cruise control and braking system

@@GooseAutoWorks not sure what those would be no videos on it

The problem is probably, The Speed Control Inhibitor Sensor. Goes under the dash board, way up there by the steering column. Blue and white in color, can't miss it, odd looking shape piece. HOPE THAT HELPS. B-SAFE N STAY SAFE!!!!

@@seal5215 it started working a few days later

From what I understand the new harness was made to eliminate the need for the fuse, and the only reason there was ever a fuse was to prevent the fires that were occurring due to overload. I can’t speak for your case or experience, but I will say I haven’t had any issues with leaks or the cruise cutting out since making the replacement. I hope you are able to find a resolution though.

@@GooseAutoWorks You are misunderstanding. The fuse-less harness that comes with a new style switch just matches the new style connector on the new style switch. One way or another the "hot at all times" wire in that branch circuit needs a 2 amp fuse, because brake fluid leaking into the electrical connector creates a high resistance / low current short to ground that the 15 or 20 amp main fuse that protects the entire circuit is much too strong to prevent fire in the connector. btw: these switches are normally closed and commonly disable cruise control because they get stuck open. Some switches are mounted downstream on a brake line junction instead of master cylinder.

Are you topped off with clean brake fluid?

I just fixed there is a fuse in to the switch wire fuse was blow

Well you should be replacing that whole wire. The fuse isn’t needed with the new switch and new harness.

None of my buttons were working, and the switch was the issue.

@@GooseAutoWorks where is the switch location? Thanks

It’s the one I replace in the video, mounted on the master cylinder

@@GooseAutoWorks ok thanks I'll try order to sensor

I’ve got a link in the description that will take you to the right one.

This video is for the 10th gen F150’s (1997-2004) You'll probably need this part here: www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-switch-speed-control-inhibitor_3m5z-9f924-ac.html?Make=Ford&Model=F-150&Year=2008&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=chassis/brake_and_clutch_controls,,9F924 Look up and under your dash above your pedals. It's a blue and white sensor about 2.5-3 inches long. There's a wire that plugs into it, you'll need to unclip, and then untwist the sensor like a headlight bulb (1/4 turn counter clock wise). Installation is the reverse. Here's a better look at what it looks like, but it is cheaper in the first link (at least before shipping, tax etc.) www.carparts.com/details/Ford/F-150/Motorcraft/Cruise_Control_Switch/2008/XLT/8_Cyl_4-dot-6L/MISW6546.html

It’s good to check there, but in my case the fuse would continually blow. It got bad enough it would blow every time I started the truck because that harness was bad. Just keep and eye on it

@@GooseAutoWorks forsure, my harness looks fine. The original fuse was a 2 amp but all I had was a 5 amp replacement. Thoughts?

Yeah, the 2 amps are a little more difficult to come by. I think I ordered some on Amazon. An extra 3 amps isn’t a ton of extra current flowing through, but it is 150% more than what is supposed to be there. The harness visually can look ok, but the problem is the excessive current put on that system and the heat caused as a result. That’s why the fuse was introduced by Ford as a fix. Before the fuse was there, vehicles were actually catching on fire. By putting in a larger amp fuse, you’re effectively allowing more current to pass through before the system turns off to protect itself (via a fuse blow). All that said, you’re probably ok with a 5 amp fuse, but I would go ahead and spend the $5 or so on a couple of 2 amp fuses. If the frequency of the blown fuses goes up, instead of putting a larger fuse in, I would just upgrade the harness to get rid of the problem altogether.

@@GooseAutoWorks word. Thanks man!

What year?

@@GooseAutoWorks 1994 F350

Hey Jozef. You can contact me at gooseautoworks@gmail.com