Great idea cuz my 94 Ford F-150 143,300 mi on the clockcruise control has not been working, and I do have the factory recall harness but I forgot to check to see if I got the factory brake light peace or if it's been replaced now I got to check it out and just go ahead and get one from my O'Reilly store like you just did in your video see if that helps my views on my fuse in my fuse panel is good and everything else that's got to be something like that thanks for the video
I was not aware of this modification. I will do it immediately. I haven’t had cruise for a couple of months because the VSS isn’t sending any signal to my cluster. I suppose that it will get replaced soon. I have been thinking of giving the truck back to ford because of these two issues. It has been absolutely reliable until now with only 325,000 miles on it. Back to reality, I do appreciate the tip. Al
Fine job there, just went to eBay and bought one for 30.00, Will put it on ASAP, Seen you put break fluid On it, I will do the same thing as you did. Thank You for telling us about this problem. Sure don’t need any fires
i bought a 1992 f 250 with 125k on the clock this jannuary 6th 2023 every is working good very clean inside i want to fix the cruz conrtol cause i dont want to go over 65 on the high way thnks for the info will try it
Thanks. I’m replacing a failed switch now and curious why you remove the fused link? Isn’t the new switch susceptible to shorting out again if it develops a leak into the connector housing? Thanks.
let me tell you guys, I had checked out this part on an old ford truck that initially had no cruise control, and later started blowing fuse #15 (4th from the top, in the middle row of mini fuses) so there was no electricity for the inside lights, power windows, and you couldn't shift out of park. (with a trick, you just turn the key to the first position, and you can put her in neutral and start her up and you'll be fine until you put it in park, then it gets locked up stuck again and needs the restart) you mentioned that 12v electrical current remaining even if the brake interlock switch was bad. that's very true. i noticed as soon as you plug in the 5a mini-fuse, it makes a noise (shorts) even with the vehicle off. soon as you touch the contacts, it fries the fuse. it was confusing me until you mentioned that. thanks for the information. btw, I was able to fix the part entirely by simply disconnecting the "cruise control deactivation switch" (i thought it's called the brake interlock switch, whatever it is, same part as this video, and gives similar symptoms) Kind of a hilarious fix. That truck wasn't needing the cruise control functional anyways. If I knew you didn't even have to leave it plugged in, and that doing so actually could cause fire and other problems, ha. Woulda just unplugged her loooooooong ago to keep on truckin as usual
The original harness plugged into the original brake switch. Just unplug it, change the switch, install the new pigtail between the new switch and the plug from the original switch.
I have a 2003 Ford Windstar minivan and I'm puzzled cause I have that very same thing on my van but I'm not set up for cruise control in my van. So why would I even have one of those leaky things. I had to replace my safety neutral switch cause it was leaking all over the place. Thank You ☺️
Thank you for the very helpful video would this possibly have something to do with my turning signals not working? Because I went to put In a new fuse for the blinkers and it started smoking from this part even though I’ve never used the cruise control
@@QuickSpeedShop that’s kinda what I thought as well I will buy the part and fix it with my automotive teacher and see how it goes thanks for your help and consideration
So I have a 95 7.3 diesel, manual transmission but it still has cruise control. Does this video work for that as well? My concern is that my switch is pointing at 7 o'clock so will brake fluid drain out.
I just done a auto to manual swap on my 97 ford ranger and noticed that switch I removed all my cruise control I don’t use it is there a way to delete that switch and remove it for good?
Horn and brake circuit not connected. Could be bad horn, bad ground, bad horn relay, bad horn switch in wheel. You're going to have to trace it all out.
Thanks, you saved me a whole lot of hair! I knew about the switch, but not that link. Took out the recall piece and dud what you did and bam, I have cruise now! 01 f250 with the v10
Possible if the truck has cruise. The transmission looks for a resistance from the brake light circuit. If you have retrofitted the brake lights with LEDs that might also cause transmission problems.
I'm not an expert on the system. You have the brake switch, servo motor, buttons, clutch switch (if standard) and there might be some type of control module as well. I'd look for wiring diagrams and go from there.
So there was a recall to the recall? My 2002 F250 never had the original recall done. Will the new harness (Motorcraft SW-6350) work with the original wiring?
my 95 ranger spalsh cruise control wont work, has the same switch on the master cylinder and it leaks reak fluid out the switch could that be why it isnt working?
Shouldn't this be covered by the recall if the switch was bad, and you could get it done for free? My 95 has the Blue tagged harness, but I'm not sure if it has the Red switch. But I'm going to check, and replace it. But I'm going to try the Dealership route first, maybe I can get it covered. But I figure when my 95 was done the Red switch wasn't leaking so they didn't replace it, and all I have is the Blue harness like you had. But I'm definitely going to check, but I figure I have the Red one.
I read on a forum that when you go in for the original recall, if your switch was leaking Ford would replace it with the Black one plus add the Blue tagged fused harness. But most of the time it wasn't leaking, so all you got was the Blue tagged fused harness. And when you replaced the switch out, couldn't you still have used the fused harness along with the new Black switch just too be extra safe since that new jumper harness doesn't look like it has a fuse. And if it isn't fused, by just adding the Black switch is that enough to fix the issue? With it always being hot it seems a fuse would always be needed unless you wired it to where it only gets power with the Key on. I saw where a Guy someway did that. And I also read that the single fused harness was Vehicle specific, and the later dual fused ones was for all Vehicles under the recall. But who knows, there's so much info out there about this & everyone seems to have a different take on it. Some say like you did, if you have that Red switch replace it ASAP even if it isn't leaking & you have the fused harness. All I know is I thought I had this issue covered, and now I'm not so sure.
This harness supercedes the other harnesses as far as I know. All I know is I have not had an issue since this video was filmed. I use the cruise almost every day.
Hi, I drive a Ford expedition XLT and just changed out the cruise control buttons but it still doesn't work! Would your demonstration work for my vehicle? Thanks
It could be anything in the system making the cruise not work. Brake light switch, cruise control module, wiring, faulty connectors, etc. I can't diagnose it over the computer. Sorry.
It tells the cruise when the brake pedal is pressed to turn off. It has power going to it all the time so if the switch shorts out then it can cause a fire.
I didn't design it. All I know is that's how it works. On these trucks Ford also looked at resistance in the brake light circuit to control the lockup in the transmission instead of the brake switch. That means if you do something like switch to low resistance LED brake lights the transmission doesn't shift right. Ask me how I know...
@@QuickSpeedShop yeah... I've heard about that... Anyway I don't think I'm going to replace the pressure switch. I just jumped the wires and all is good...
So in my 96 5.8 it don't have the other side connector though?? Has the sensor connector but after the connector it just goes to the harness do I cut it or something
No its not my second attempt. The truck previously had the Ford recall that included the harness and NOT the switch. In this case the switch failed and included an updated harness replacement.
It's very bad advice to eliminate the fuse protected recall harness, because the improved switches are not 100% leak proof, so it's very foolish to trust them without a two amp fuse on the hot side of the switch to prevent fire in case it does leak.
@@QuickSpeedShop It seems the word "supercede" in Ford's instructions makes you feel comfortable believing that it's impossible for the improved switches to leak, but I stand by what I said based mostly on many reports of leakage, but even if none have ever actually leaked yet, why would anyone disagree that it's very foolish not to have an inline two amp fuse on the hot side of the switch to be absolutely certain fire can not start ?
Yes, I feel comfortable because it actually called out to remove any previous recall harnesses in the instructions. I'm sorry you disagree with that. I don't really care if you think it's foolish, I installed the switch and new harness as the instructions called for. I didn't make the parts or come up with the design. Why don't you make your own video on this and then you can tell everyone how you feel the parts should be installed or better yet, write to Motorcraft and tell them how they are wrong and foolish and how you would do it.
@@QuickSpeedShop I see I was foolish to expect you to understand and to not reply like a hot headed scorned woman, but hopefully some readers will understand the message and the fact I was trying to help them. btw, the instructions were composed by the same idiots that caused the need for a recall in the first place, but suit yourself and risk fire by trusting them instead of taking a few seconds to eliminate the risk.
You're right, I was foolish not to immediately recognize that you were sent here to save all the other readers from the failures of Ford and their replacement parts and instructions! Thank you! I was foolish to think that I could have done this without you!
That's about the lamest action pouring brake fluid onto new switch, that I have ever seen, professional? Ok why did you make that mess, to lube the treads with brake fld. The brake switch isn't the problem, however you suggest heavily that a 28$ new switch might save from a fire. It's the fusible link that is the fire hazard, so why spend $ on a part that works fine and suggest it's the hazard. I at least hope your having fun making video's!
Yes, actually, the f-cking switch was bad as it was starting to make an electrical burning smell when using the cruise control. The cruise runs through the brake switch to know when to deactivate. I actually read the Ford service bulletins that clearly states that the switch can leak internally LEADING TO A FIRE. The repair steps said to put some fluid in the switch so that's what I did. I'm not going to burn my truck down over a $28 switch. I thought this was pretty straight forward and since Ford has several recalls relating to it, it might be something useful to film. Apparently it insulted your intelligence enough for you to write a whole paragraph comment about it so there's that.
@@QuickSpeedShop Disregaurd that A Hole. He's just out to trash peoples Egos. My cruise control wasn't working in my Ford Ranger 2002. The on/off buttons were ruined because previous owner was forceing the button to try to make it work. So I replaced the steering wheel buttons but only made the buttons look great. So came across your video. Purchased a new switch ,followed your instuctions and took it out for a ride and cruise control works perfectly. I really am thankful for people that try to help people that can't afford to take their vehicles to service centers. Thanks for the video.