You can always tell when someone has years of experience at their craft. Major respect to the old timers like yourself who spread their knowledge. I wouldn't have thought the beauty ring came out after the glass. 👍🙂
Perfect how to video. Everything happened exactly as explained with the exception of the window lifting out easily. I had to work mine a little because the old seal material was holding it in in spots. Also, I found it easier just to take my headliner completely out so I wasn't fighting it. That was easy enough, and added only 5 minutes to the job. Thank you for taking the time to post this!
Can’t thank you enough for this, I have the exact same leak in my ‘01 Supercrew and had tried almost every solution. Had no idea I could replace the seals this easily.
Good video showing how using the correct tools helps to pull the panels off without breaking the plastic tabs. Also, @ 9:30 good reflection of the right way to record, with your phone on a small tripos in the corner of the bed. Thanks for the video.
Great video, very helpful! The seat belt nuts on my '03 are 15mm. I have a Supercrew and the inside plastic is a little different but it's similar, 9mm worked better for me than 11/32 on the window nuts, 11/32 was too tight of a fit. Also had rust holes around some of the screw holes I had to repair before re-installing the window/ring.
This is an EXCELLENT video! I followed it to the T for fixing my 2001 F150 4x4. Thank you for your help I honestly could not have done it with out breaking something if not for your assistance. Love RU-vid!
Watched a couple videos on this topic, those sliding glass windows were natorious for developing cracks in the frame and they leaked no matter how good a butyl seal you have. They do have aftermarket windows that cured the issue, as Ford screwed up in the original design... nothing unusual there, they more likely wanted it to leak. Just figured I'd mention that since you didn't.
Thanks for the video, definitely the best I found. Also, that foam-core butyl tape is getting pretty hard to find. I found some on amazon but it was a third party seller that took almost 2 weeks to arrive - don't expect to find any with prime shipping. Couldn't find any listed in the product pages of any of the major auto parts stores.
Watched several videos on this and this one was the best. Going to use 3M Window Weld instead of the tape. Hopefully it's the right move! Also on an '01 Supercrew.
i had to do mine as well but i ended up using 7/64 vacuum tubing with some weatherstrip adhesive for the seal around the beauty ring. My trim is a little different and has a channel in it like the rear window does, i just didnt want dirt and debris to stick to it because of how tacky that stuff is.
Thanks! My '03's leaking too guess this is a problem with these year models. I considered taking the slider out & having a solid rear window installed as the slider works intermittently, but I think it may be the control switch. I'll try this before spending for a new window & can check out the slider while I have it apart. :)
My 2001 XLT was a little different. The biggest difference is that there are more of those frustrating expanding clips that have to get pinched with needle-nose pliers. I found that pinching them with the pliers and then pressing on the end with a flat screw driver helped to get them through the holes.
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the window guy who fixed my rear 3rd brake light leak, said the beauty ring is just appearance molding - nothing to do with weather stripping or preventing leaks. On the inside of the brake light he applied a 1/2" frame of weather foam and put a bead of rtv (or was it silicone?) on the inside of brake light. So far - no leaks...only thing...to change a light bulb - I'm going to have to scrape that silicone crap off.
Yes he is right, the beauty ring is just a cosmetic part. However, just because it's purpose is not to prevent leaks doesn't mean it can't be a source of leaks, if you watch this video you will see what I mean.
The through holes allowing the studs to go through the frame can and do leak if not sealed. Foam tape will leak. It is a sponge with stickum on 2 sides. Urethane or high quality RTV.
I have a leaking window on a 98. I resealed the window and still have a leak. Thanks to your video, I now see that the beauty ring is probably what’s leaking. Unfortunately, I used some super sticky 3M sealer on the window and it is going to be a bear to remove the back window this time.
David Green Probably any 3M sealer (especially if it’s a urethane-based sealer) will have firmed up pretty well after 24 hours or so, it may not be the mess you think it’s going to be. But the M-seal is definitely the OEM factory sealer for this application- because it’s actually the nuts that hold the glass in, not the sealer. Thx for sharing the experience.
All hail the King! :-) Your video is the best and I should also call you the professor! :-) quick question if I pay someone to do this for me how much can I expect to pay? If you're near Virginia maybe I can get you to do it? :-) thanks for an awesome video!
Although I don’t see prices (I work out in the shop), your local glass company will probably charge you between $150 and $250. I’m curious myself what it would cost.
It just rained here and my 02 SuperCrew is soaked.... the rear carpet is soaked and I can see that it leaked in from the rear windshield. My question to you is, my front windshield had tons of condensation but everything up front was dry as far as the carpet area. Could the rear windshield leak have caused that much condensation that it reached the front windshield? Or do I have a leak at the windshield too? Thank you.
eldigitom thanks a lot man. I was in the hospital for 11 days when this happened and my wife told me about it when I got out... have you ever came across these same trucks that have water leaks from the front windshield?
Kris Ram Any vehicle can develop a windshield leak with age, they are easy to check though by just holding a water hose along the edge of the windshield slowly going up along the outside edges of the glass and then up across the top. Good luck though and thanks for your good comment!
Please notice @5:54 the process of re-packing the studs of the beauty ring. Unfortunately, the rear glass has to come out to access the beauty ring. If there are no rust issues, the process shown in this video should eliminate the leak. Again, the process is outlined in the first 20 seconds of the video. Good luck, I hope it works!
Hello i know this is an older video, but to those who have tried this, is it possible to break the glass by over tightening the nuts towards the end of the video?
i am just about to replace my beauty ring and i kept thinking, how does it come out without removing the glass. after this video i said ".... oh" better roll up those sleeves and unwrap a roll of butyl tape
No, just the top and sides. This was optional and looking back on it I believe it was overkill because the urethane ribbon around the studs should be everything that’s needed to keep water out. I wouldn’t recommend that step if I was doing it again.
Yes, I’m pretty sure that in order to obtain access to that rear cab section the seat would need to be removed. On some of those older F-150s the hold-down bolts for the seat are [incredibly] rusted. Good luck with the project✌🏻
I believe both types of tape sealer shown in the video are available on Amazon. Also, you could check with your local automotive glass company. While you’re at it, it might be worthwhile to ask them for a price for them to do the job, it may be money ahead for them to do that for you. May be a couple hundred dollars?
8mm foam core butyl tape can be ordered from Amazon for about $14/roll, or local body shop or automotive paint supply stores, OR automotive glass shop. ‘M-seal’ is just a name brand.
The foam core tape is much more compressible and forms to make a better seal, it’s not really a glue tape like the butyl is. Foam core far as I know is always used under a bolted in glass as more of a gasket type seal. Good luck sir.
0:09 unfortunately the glass must come out first. There is a quarter inch flange on the inside of the beauty ring which lays underneath the glass and will prevent it from coming out (at least this is true on the 2001 model which is shown in the video). Good luck papa✌️
Most (all?) body shops sublet their glass work to a local auto glass company. 'If' there is a body shop you trust, you could start there. Or, try calling a local auto glass shop and hopefully circumvent the bodyshop all together (since this is an entirely glass company process). You would just call them and get a quote on how much $ to cut out, and reseal the rear slider. Good luck✌
@@brandon1349I did the process myself in my driveway. Now I didn’t have a leaky window or anything, but after buying a neighbors 99 F150, I just couldn’t abide the eyesore of a missing chunk of the beauty ring on the bottom driver side curve. So, I removed the beauty ring and rear window in about an hour, cleaned the window of the old rubber sealant in about 40 minutes, and cleaned the body of the sealant remnants in about 25 minutes. That’s as far as I got before the heat drove me inside and I’ll be headed out in the morning to finish the reinstall for the replacement beauty ring and putting the rear window back in. Overall, the removal process was exactly as shown in the video and I don’t expect any complications in the reinstall as it appears equally straightforward. TLDR: I’d recommend attempting this yourself if you have the basic tools and general handiwork inclination before spending a lot more money at a shop to do relatively basic work.
Wow! That is stunning and ridiculous, I’m sorry to hear that. Chances are, you just called the wrong place. I cannot imagine a glass shop being that uflexible.
My brother (who lives in another state) recently called a glass shop about installing a windshield in his Ford flex. The price they quoted was $1400, I checked with our shops glass company and they said it would be about $400 including the seals. There are varying levels of hustle in these glass companies. Maybe you could get a referral from a friend that’s had some glass work done?
@@eldigitom9680 I got mine all apart tonight, and found that several of the points where fasteners attach to the beauty ring are broken. I can probably rig something, but would also consider buying a ring so I'm not dealing with 20 year old plastic. Any idea where I can find one? It doesn't look like most parts outlets carry them.
@@eldigitom9680 Not yet. My experiences with them haven't been overly positive. I'm afraid I'd end up with a grill from a '78 Fairmont. I've been able to cobble things back together with some wooden shims and a filler made from super glue and baking soda. The filler works great -- it's sandable, waterproof, and sets up in just a few seconds. I learned about it from a guy who makes his own fishing tackle.
@@eldigitom9680 Yes, you can get replacement slider windows. I have one I need to install in my 2001 F150. Looks like I need to remove the rear seat back. Thanks.
If it didn’t leak before you installed the LED, try putting the old light back in. If it doesn’t leak with the old light the LED must have a defective housing. You can try finding the leak specifically by running a water hose at a fairly low speed starting at the sides and working your way slowly around the top. That will show you exactly what is causing the leak.
@@eldigitom9680 yes they are 11/32, I actually have 4 nuts, I did not include the other 2 because those belong to the upper Beauty ring by the headliner (but a piece broke off and I am unable to screw them on till I order a new piece for it) so I have these 2 random nuts???/
I believe they might go behind pieces of the trim in the cab, but I don't have a clue where that could possibly be? I tried looking up diagrams on different websites but no luck.
Do you mean without pulling the glass? You could try that. Before I did the repair I ran duct tape around the top edge and sides and it totally stopped the leaking, so caulking it around the outside edge might work. Try it!
I really don't know what to do now. It's a 2001 with 42k miles on it. Been paid for for years. Not sure if a body shop can fix it without charging me a.fortune. :(
@@gregorylose8835 no, I would highly recommend you contact an auto glass shop. Those are the guys that gave me the instructions that I followed. A body shop would probably just sublet it to a glass company. Judging by the value of your truck, I think it would be well worth it, and probably won’t cost as much as you think. good luck friend.
There all small stuff if it was a chevy engine would have been blown and honestly I’ve worked on chevys that are 2000-2003 ish and they have way more problems