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This is actually really good news. As a concert photographer, I'm most concerned with light gathering and I bought the Tamron 24-70 2.8 because it was more affordable. I'm looking at a 70-200 next, and this video makes me feel better about getting the Tamron over the Canon. I was mainly looking at the Tamron because it's more affordable, but I felt like I may have been making a poor choice as I see more photographers here in LA with the Canon. Seems like the Tamron may be better for my purposes, while being cheaper to boot!
For those that are not annoyed by manual focus, the Cinema lens are really great, and there is a possibility to get the Rokinon/Samyang lenses for very very affordable prices. When you mesure in T stops its very simple to get your exposure right while you change lens, cause the amount of light getting in will always be the same. Im using it for filming of course, but, even they are heavier, without autofocus, lets say, completely manual, I surprise myself almost not using my other lenses anymore even for photography. Cause the result just looks great
I'm extremely annoyed by manual focus for two reasons; I have no focus peaking built into my camera and if I'm using a photography lens, most of them have that annoying af dynamic geared focusing making manually focusing a nightmare.
Matt - Just found this gem of a video today (4/23/17). Goes to show that an old dog like me can still learn a "new trick." Thanks for the understandable clarification of a "T" stop. Of course, using a camera's TTL meter will automatically compensate for any difference. BUT...your good explanation indicates why my images "may" be slightly underexposed when using a hand meter. Thanks again.
nothing gives me more pleasure then to listen to someone who knows what hes talking about ,great stuff and by the way awsome move with the 1dx i would love a video about how you will set it up since I'm sure your not going to leave all settings as it came out of the box thanks and great luck with it
Very informative video, thanks. I noticed this when shooting my most recent weather vid. Had to put an ND8 filter on the end of my Samyang 35mm F1.4 with t value 1.7 where as the 70-200 2.8 with its t value 3.4 was able to film ok in same light without needing ND8 to pull back the light a little. Same ISO and 1/50 sec F8, the difference was amazing back to back.
You're right Matt. My Canon 24-105 f/4L has a t stop according to DXO of f/5.1. And if I use sunny f/16 rule on a bright sunny day I get about 2/3 stop underexposure, which proves it.
At first I didn't creat about the T value until I leant the destruction the ISO do the dynamic range. A lens with good at T value keeps the ISO low and the dynamic range high.
I literally learned about DXO mark sharing a lens T-stop value only a couple of days ago. While they have quite the collection, I just wish they had more lenses tested. The prohibitive cost of cinema lenses makes my eyes water; however, I love the long focus throw, the higher number of aperture blades, and the explicitly stated t-stop value upfront. My dream lens is a 50mm f/t 0.95~1.2 with 20 blades aperture and a long focus throw for precise manual focus... aahhhhh... one can only dream!
Thanks for putting this out there. While the faults of any lens may not be the topic of concern, you have shown ratings on a page like DXOmark that does measure lens performance on more than one scale. Implicit recommendations to buy lenses with better T-stop performance are created, but offsetting faults are there, they do become relevant and should be mentioned...actually more relevant comparing lenses than engines + final drive performance. T-stops are useful first in comparing lenses.
One of the important aspects of the T-number is that it's supposed to be a calibrated measurement instead of just a rough calculation (and that's what the aperture numbers are). The theory is that if you swap, e.g., a 20mm at a T-number of 4 with a 70mm at T 4, you end up with the same transmission, and thus the same brightness. It becomes quite obvious to see why such calibration would be desirable for shooting movies on film, and in extension why the T-number is prevalent in movie lenses.
Exellent information Matt! But in still photography, T-number doesn't matter that much nowadays because sensor signal processing techology = very good modest to high ISO quality.
Only yesterday I realised what a big deal the t-stop is. Pitching my kit zoom lens at f3.4 vs a vintage Rokkor at the same aperture,iso and shutter speed ... The difference is huge! I always thought an f3.4 is the same light regardless of the lens. Gosh I tried shooting northern lights with the kit lens needing 3-5 seconds of exposure time at ISO 1600
I understand all that, but why is there such a dearth of information about our available? I've looked at all my lenses on dxo mark and they only tell you the T value at maximum aperture. Is it offset by a constant amount all the way down the range? My Leica 42.5mm f1.2 nocticron for m4/3 is specified at f1.2 and T1.7, a whole stop down. Does that mean that f2 equals T2.8?. f2.8 equals T4? It could be a non-linear change. Dxomark say they test at every aperture but then why do they only give the one value? I like to use an incident reading flash meter for portraits. To correct effectively I need to know how far off my cameras ISO is at each value (which they show, so easy) but also the true T numbers going down the scale.
Great tutorial! Is there a website where you can get the F-stop conversions to T-stop conversions for each make and model, and also for each F-stop opening?
question l want to buy samyang 85mm f1.4 or samyang 85mm t1.5 price is almost same just litle expnesive t1.5 mostly l make video but also take photo if l buy t.1.5 is it l lost any fonction for photo and when l m focus from t stop is it work focus sound from dslr 7d still cant decided thank you l wait your answer
hey MATT your videos are always quite interesting.... one of the few on youtube who knows how to make it interesting..... mark wallace, matt granger.....hmmm I would say superman & batman from marvel....lol
cant the light be bend so it does reach a higher amount of light while having the same aperture or a better t-stop number ? i have a lens pentax 67 / 50-100mm 1:4.5 but its front lens is 80 mm its second lens is around 60 mm (the lens body itself is also around 80 mm the front lens is a bit bigger , but nowhere to f4.5) on the other hand i looked a samsung lens what has its front lens around 59 mm to make the compare i took a other samsung lens and it has a frontlens of around 27mm both being set to f5.6 they deliver the same shutter speed the same amount of light to make this certain i looked the pictures and took a look on the suggested shutter speed both are matched
So wait... Does that mean that a Cinema lenses T value reported on the lens spec sheet is ACTUALLY the lenses T value? Sounds like a stupid question, I know but I want to make sure it's really that cut and dry. Thanks!
Hi! In lonelyspeck.com it calculates the astrofography scoring starting with: Nikon 35mm f/1.8 has 35/1.8 = 19mm wich is the Clear Aperture Diameter (mm). Can we use this formula for calculating the light? Thank you
Before multi-coating the difference between F and T stops was even bigger. The early zooms from the 1970s were a stop slower than single focal length lenses, which had far fewer elements.
