Rob decides to turn the long bed F100 into a short bed. Part 1 walks through the frame cut process. Check out Part 2 that shows the details of cutting the bed - • F100 Long Bed to Short...
First, always round your corners when doing this. Those sharp turns will build up tension and you run the risk of it breaking. Secondly put angles on your edges so you can reach deep in the metal to weld it fully.
You were 3/16" off on the front because you measured down 3 3/16" and 3" in the back so your center horizontal line was not square with the top of the rail . You didn't need to deal with that step in the bottom, the area that you cut the bottom was still only 6" ..
Agreed, it worked out better in my head when I planned it. If I were to do it again, I would focus on cutting it, so the top of the frame aligned like you said. But hopefully you guys can watch it and cut yours more accurately.
330_Garage you just 'over thought' it, believe me have been a welder and at 72 I've over thought a lot of things along the way or subtracted when I should have added. I was interested to watch because there is an identical pickup just setting down the road from me that I have dreamed of doing the same thing to, but I have to finish my 1950 F-1 project first. Trying not to 'over think '. Great vlog though, good method, you made it look easy and explain things well. Anxious to see it finished. Oh and....GET THEM SAFETY GLASSES ON!
You can walk on a wooden leg. You can't see with a wooden eye. Wear safety glasses youngster! This is from someone old, who has too many scars from not wearing proper protective gear over the years............ Great work, by the way!
You're cuts caused the frame to not line up. You should have focused more on lining up top and bottom and filling in the middle with welds. Plus the backing plates over the z chop. The other thing I would have done differently was have more than 5 inches to weld too
I'm really enjoying learning from your videos. They're far better than a lot of the videos on RU-vid that are slickly produced, but ultimately aren't very informative.
Dealing with the extra fuel tank reminded me of this guy (farmer?) that every month (late 70s) had his truck with a large optional tank (32 gal?), two saddle tanks (32 gal ea), and a custom tank (50 gal) behind the cab filled up. We ran as many hoses we could to fill up those tanks quickly.
I think on that rearmost frame cut off,,I would make a cardboard template of the holes in the existing and place it forward of your cut line and trace the hole location(s) out ,,mark the center(s) and drill. just a suggestion. Your work looks great! Very enjoyable and informative .
The rear section was low, that’s why you had the front section sitting slightly higher on top, and the rear sitting low underneath, also you could use some of the section you cut out as a strengthening box section across your joint inside!
When I have shortened truck frames I will usually cut it on a 45° angle take out the 16" and put it back together. This will offset the top and bottom of the splice by the height of the frame. Usually I angle it towards the front from top to bottom because the farther forward you are with the bottom splice will lessen the inertial moment of stress.
Agreed... it seemed like the best approach at the time, when I was walking through it and marking it off. After editing the video and seeing it come together a couple times.. I think it would be best to mark both ends 3" down, cut the Z's, then bridge the 3/8" gap at the bottom by slicing it or making a gusset there. The top of the frame would stay aligned with that method.
330_Garage IMO your Plasma cutter took away some material horizontally leaving you short vertically. But what do I know, I’ve never used a plasma cutter and never will. Hm, then also your cut out length would also be a hair short, but probably wouldn’t matter or show on the frame.
Did the rear brace on the back the one that doesn’t take bolt cause you any trouble after cutting the bed and putting it back on the truck ? I noticed it has indentations to clear the shackles .buy cutting the 4” where you did , did the brace end up in the location it should ( top of shackles)
Like what your doing. Forget about what they say about cutting up a good truck. There are plenty out there to go save if they feel like it. You really need to rethink using a face shield and or safety glasses and appropriate pants and footwear. A trip to the ER is in your future. Hopefully you haven't had a molten blob of steel burning down into the layers of those sneakers into your foot yet. It's also in your future. Look forward to your progress.
My Dad bought a 69 F250 Camper Special pickup. It was one that somebody had ordered but didn't take, so he bought it. It had that extra gas tank as well. I remember that you could hear the gas sloshing in the tank that is behind the seat. Not so with the gas in the big tank, but my Dad hardly ever used the big tank. His was also a 360, 2 barrel. With the super stiff suspension and huge tires on it, it would get stuck on wet pavement! :)
I am greatly enjoying your video and I like that you are explaining your thinking as you go along. Furthermore I am guessing that you are using ER70S-6 wire, it has good strength and elongation which should help prevent cracking, others have mentioned the stress induced in "square" corners. One thing I would have done differently was to also weld the frame solid on both sides because the strength increase is dramatic. You have the great benefit of having a plasma cutter where you can cut or pierce in any shape you desire, you can easily make templates and cut around them with the plasma. -jp
Would you know what the dimension would be to convert a 1960 long bed to a shortbed? I purchased a custom short bed frame so I really just need to cut the bed thanks in advance
So would this be the same process as doing a 1978 long bed? And 4x4? This is such a cool video. I have read alot of forums on this subject but no videos. And just a small tip for anyone else attempting this, when you cut yoir notches, it is best to round off your corners. Instead of making a square 90° cut, use a socket or something round in shape to mark your 90 degree cuts instead of making sharp corners. With it cut square, it is making for an easy spot to crack the frame
Good video and good work but I have a few suggestions. Frame jig (as many jack stands as you can get at the very least), a plumb bob, some layout fluid, and scribe instead of a paint marker and a tape measure. Otherwise, heck of a project.
If your worried about strength them box the chassis where it's been cut the shorted will make a big difference and stop the welds from cracking if there's any flex / twist in the rear end
i thought someone made kit to bolt on the frame of both frame sides and you cut out the sections on the bolt on , then slid the frame up and bolted on inner frame section and welded it on the inside. i think trucks did it on their show. but what your doing works too.
Your fishplates should never come to a point. That just creates a spot for a crack to start. Should be nice and round on the ends. This also gives you more welded area.
I agree with ThePintorunner, and by not flushing the tops of the frame and checking it with a straight edge before welding, your frame may not be straight.
I can get my hands on a running driving 67 f100 2wd for cheap.. i just dont know how to weld.. do you think a fab shop would weld the frame back together if i cut it myself? And if i can find just a regular short bed, Would i be able to just bolt that bed up to the frame if it's cut this way? I am considering selling my 92 f150 4x4 to fund the project
I would assume any welder would be willing to weld the frame back together. I would also assume, if you give them the measurements, they would be more than willing to cut it for you as well.
Awesome video and excellent content my question is why you destroyed prefect truck just to short it by that length you could find or see if there short bed truck out there to me that so disappoint see long bed truck be cut up to be short
Finding a short bed in this era is tough, finding one in decent condition at a decent price point is even tougher. This is a great solution to those that dont appreciate the old man look of the long bed.
That would have been a good solution as well... not sure anyone has thought about that. Well.. at least you guys have some ideas on how to cut your own stuff haha.
Hi Those wiring clips are called pinch clips. U put them in and pinch them and they grab and hold. They are they same as those used on mustangs and all ford products. Available new from AMK, NPD or any of the mustang suppliers
Excuse me friend, a question from where did you take the measurement of 3/4 to cut the chassis of the 16 inch part, from which part of the hole? of the beginning, the middle or the end
I believe it was the back of the hole, just to make sure I was square. As long as you take 16 inches out of the frame, from the same location on both sides it should be fine.
I'm running a Lincoln Power Mig 210 MP. I also run an old transformer machine, a Lincoln Weld Pak 5000HD. With a small .023 wire that is really nice to use on sheet metal. Both are gas shielded with a 75/25 gas mix.
I had the driveshaft cut down and rebalanced by a local driveshaft service shop. Or you could find a drive shaft out of a short wheelbase truck and use that
IM SHORTENING A 84 CHEVY BUT FRAME IS DIFERENT TO THIS. HOW MANY INCHES YOU RECOMEND TO TAKE OFF LONGBED TO MAKE IT A CHEVY SHORT BED . JIST STARTED BUT I PUT A HOLD ON IT
You are impressively skilled at your age. Keep it up. What size wire were you using .030 or .035? I am just learning (teaching myself) to weld at age 65 and so was impressed with what you have undertaken.
@@330_garage3 It was probably custom designed/fabricated to suit that application. It should have been ahead of the rear axle. Top Plate would have had the Female hitch and lock assy. I removed a bolted one once. Terrible job. It had been put on with Box off.
Should've measured an even 3 inches down, now equaled out the 3/16 frame thickness difference... that's why you're off! Soon as I seen your idea to divide the measurement I knew you screwed up. It's ok more welding is all
You screwed up by dividing the front height in half. That is why you have the height differences in the front. You should have just measured both front/rear down 3" from the top. Reason? Your vertical cut on the front is behind the 3/8" kick-down in the frame height. All your cuts were made in 6" tall frame material. I saw it coming as soon as you measured it, LOL.
wheelieking71 I was thinking the same thing and what he should of done was lined the top and bottom up and fill the gap in the center that way the bed mounts are all level now ll the rear ones will sit down 3/8 from the front. But I guess it's not much so wouldn't cause a problem with it just looks funny haha
Exactly - cringed as the so carefully laid out horizontal cut line was intentionally set to go “down hill” toward the front of the front of the truck!?! As you say, the horizontal cut line should have been parallel to the top of the frame so the resulting top surface remained straight. On the other hand, splitting the difference in the offset wouldn’t necessarily be a bad idea, assuming some heavy welding in the top and bottom joints. Still, a fun project.
this is way cheaper to cut the box then do it like they say and buy a new short box from lmc truck but i think it would be better to start with a short box so far i have got 2 short box 67 to 72 fords 2 67 to 72 chevy's and few 73 to 79 chevy's short box and the best part they were free just haul them off for scrap but i keep them . one truck i got for free i still can't believe was a 79 short box cheyenne full option truck with under 35,000 miles on it in mint condition been in a shop it's hole life . i was told by super chevy not too sell it for less then 20,000 to 25,000
Why not use the 16" pieces you cut out to use as a backing plate.Better yet you really should box that frame area in instead of triangle pieces. Your life could depend on that frame NOT becoming a hinge point if ever in an accident. Worth the cost of material.
I know its your truck. Do you know how hard it is to find a bed in that shape? Normally they rust out at the seam. That truck didn't have that much rust in it. I would of restored it. Did you ever get a title for it? What's your plan for the truck now to modify it on out? The tank on the back was a option on those. Normally it was the camper specials or people that was towing or camping that went for that option.
I thought the truck was cool, and would be cooler as a short bed. I feel like the weathered paint tells a cool story, and its not all crashed up. I did get a title with it. The truck was left on some property (with lots of other junk) that my friend bought. I am working on getting the engine back in the truck (video coming this weekend for that). Then doing the crown vic front suspension swap, an explorer rear end. Redoing the interior, and putting the story on RU-vid as I go.
@@330_garage3 I have to give it to you. You had a lot of patience putting it back together. As far as the 390 use header gaskets on those exhaust manifolds. It will save you some aggreviation.
As a former restorer and customizer, I saw a few mistakes you made. 1.. no safety goggles. 2.. when you marked out for your cuts, the front and rear horizontal lines should both have been 3" from the top of the frame rail for your Z cut plus compensating for the thickness of your cutoff wheel so the cuts end up inline with each other when the sections are slid together instead of ending up with an offset or a 1/4 gap. 3. when sectioning a frame, ALWAYS radius the corners of the Z or youll end up with weak spots that later are likely to crack on you. Im not trying to be a jerk, but want to see you do it the right way and to learn from my mistakes from when I first started in the field.
Excuse me, I said cut off wheel when I meant plasma cutter. the offet you encountered in the frame height was due to you measuring to the center in the front as well as in the back instead of measuring both to be at 3"
