I have a 2015 5.0 I had a that famous tick since then , 200k miles after still runs like champ! It's been paid off , I'm driving it till motors goes , coming up to 300k it paid itself once by now
Yeah they say when it stops making noise as you got to worry LOL I hope mine makes it that far I had a 2003 Harley-Davidson with the 5.4 with 230,000 miles and it looks brand new and would do 140 down the interstate like nobody's business
I’m a mechanic. My friend just came over with his 2017 f150. He called me and said that he was hearing engine knock. And when he came over I opened the hood and I heard that knocking or ticking sound and I could tell it was coming from the throttle body. And when I saw this video that’s exactly how it sounded. It has to be this because the moment I heard it my hand went straight to the throttle body. Great vid. Thanks.
Yes! Thanks for posting this video. I cleaned my throttle body and it started making this noise. So I took the battery terminal off to clear the memory and then restored power. I turned the key to the on position to let the throttle body sweep. Then I started my truck and let it idle for 30 minutes and it relearned the idle setting and the noise went away! Thanks again!
That clicking Is loud because I was doing my oil change yesterday and when I turn it on it was making that noise that I thought it might be the belt tensioner or maybe one of the pulleys bearing going bad but I’m glad someone made a video because that would have been a nightmare to find.
You the man! Thank you so much for posting this video! I just got a 2016 5.0 and it has this exact issue. I narrowed it down to the throttle body and searched on RU-vid and found your video. So relieved now! Will remove intake hose to verify, but this is definitely it! Cheers from Sweden!
Beautiful truck! Dorman makes an aftermarket upgrade to the coolant Y that is metal. My 2015 had the leak from the same place as yours and I've had the new metal Y on there for 4 months with no issue, only time will tell.
Yes I bought two of those metal ones off of Amazon put on two different trucks so far so good both trucks I made a hose coming from radiator to y with clamps so I will never have that problem again. What I'm reading is people are just replacing the O-rings but that plastic gets so brittle. I just hate it that you know it's going to happen just when on vacation or 3 hours from home who knows
I’ll say one think it’s one beautiful truck!!! A buddy of mine had a 76 Ford F150 back then, it ran great for back then, but he was always looking problems and always under it, Change the oil and as long as she’s running good forget it.
@@s.t.k.r. yep, I’m old and I’ll tell you that truck is a Cadillac compared to the old trucks and honestly it was hard to get 100k out of them old truck without a ton of work. I got a 2017 2.7 STX and I figure I’ll have to do the hoses this spring, might go ahead and do the water pump too, don’t look like to bad of a job.
Greetings I have a 2016 Mustang Gt . Just heard the same noise today . Comes and goes . Only hear it with hood open . Car runs great . It's super hot out different air density . Perhaps just dont open hood anymore . Do service when needed close hood . Breathe Relax Rip on it , have fun . I Am a Child of God God Loves Me My car loves Me All is Well . Thank You Universe Kind cyote Truck Guy .
My 15 GT had the same issue around 80k clicking and tapping like crazy and I bought a used one on eBay, swapped it, problem solved. I’d rather have these minor issues over the lifter issues in a Chevy.
Seems to be a pretty big issue and if it was to go out I think it could be considered a safety issue which should be a recall I think there is a TSB on it but Ford will not pay for it even under my extended warranty
Good catch on the throttle body. A friend has a 2016 (I think) F150 5.0L and he just finished putting a Edelbrock super charger on his. Took care of the ticking problem. And his towing gas mileage went up… The normal driving mileage went down! 😊
With modern vehicles using electronic control units ( ECU's / computers) to monitor and control engine operation, the electronic parts are indeed more expensive and require expensive tools ( needed ) even when you install a new part - as in your case - an ELECTRONIC throttle body. When many new ELECTRONIC parts are installed - the repair technician has to use expensive vehicle ( bidirectional diagnostic engine analyzer ) to perform computer ( ECU ) relearn functions to ensure proper calibration of air / fuel mixture for the ELECTRONIC fuel injectors - as certain ELECTRONIC parts are not just plug ( install ) and play - fuel injectors and throttle bodies require such computer relearn procedures.
I have a 2015 F150 5.0 and I can feel the clicking coming from the black piece right above the throttle body without taking the intake off. And I took the intake off and it is black all over (carbon), so I’ll clean mine and or replace it with a better one
I don't believe that is the cause of the ticking noise prevalent in this engine. That throttle tick is also a problem with the 5.0 and we clean the throttle body or replace it and re-initialize the computer and it takes care of that problem. It's caused by an error in the Idle control from the throttle plate not sitting correctly. The typewriter tap is different and comes from the valve train, probably caused by a design flaw in the oil passages and improper oil flow through the valve train. that's why it sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine.
I couldn't agree more on the rad hose wire clamp system. Worst design ever. I replaced mine the bottom rad hose on my 09 and thoght I had it on securely, 1 month later my truck runs hot because the hose came loose and leaked half the fluid. Hopefully its secure now but still makes me nervous.
Send a bunch of millenials to school give them a lap top , supervised by a man bun and tell them they are a mechanic, ooops sorry technician , mechanics know how to fix things with a computer
I have the same exact sound! Also no driveability issues but when I took my truck to the dealer they said I’ll need a new engine block for $5,000 😂 So glad I didn’t go with that.
Wow! Wow! Wow! How awesome finally mystery solved. Thank you so much and i gave up on even searching for an answer over a year ago. Finding this video today was an accident. Man what a relief i have a 2011 fx4 5.0 and 2013 platinum 5.0 the 11 been sittng for years cuz of the ghost tick i could never find. My wife thinks Im nuts. Thank you so much man. 😊
Is that what that is??? I have a 2018 5.0 F150 with the same sound - I've brought it to 2 different dealers at least 4 different times to have this looked at while it was under warranty, without any certain answer. I have had them perform whatever TSBs have been issued with no resolve. I've always chalked this up to engine knock (which Ford and their TSB 19-2144 claims is completely normal and a regular operating characteristic of the 5.0) RU-vid for the win once again. Going to check this out on mine. Thanks!!
Yeah I found this out by accident Ford says it's because it gets dirty and it's kind of normal without the intake pipe off it sounds like it's coming from everywhere
Same sound coming from mine..... so glad I googled this 1st.. had someone in a mustang group say throttle tick and dang If that's gotta be the sound. Right from the throttle body... I could hear it and it sounds like thumping coming out of my cai
2016 gt same thing just found heard today and the Universe sent me a support group . Pretty cool . Thing runs great only hear SOMETIMES with hood Open . I leave hood closed . Fixed .
294k on my 2015 5.0L. Runs great WITH that randon tick exactly as it is heard here. I thought it was a typical Ford lifter. Now I know where to look. Awesome find - well done to this content creator, and even better that you shared it. I haven't seen it discussed accurately ANYWHERE else. Your video, friend, is the only one I have seen showing the origin of this noise. You should charge admission!
So I'm at 299k miles now and mine is NOT the throttle body. It is most assuredly a rod bearing knocking. I'll swap rod bearings this summer by dropping the pan with the engine still in the truck. It's not fun, but it's just a weekend and not much money (180 bucks with the bearings, oil, and pan gasket) and I will likely drive it a few years afterward with no issue. For what it's worth and for anyone interested, rod bearings (and their knock) are down low, down in the oil pan. They have a distinct knock that sounds like two plastic screwdriver handles banging together repeatedly. While a harmless upper engine tick sounds like the metal shafts of the same two screwdrivers hitting each other. Again: Handles banging together is the rod knock sound. Metal shafts clicking together is the upper engine sound and harmless, usually. Best to you- J
Putting a new throttle body on will not fix this. It is a motor driven plate with redundancy with two position sensors any small readings between both position sensors will turn the wrench light on and kill the throttle nothing off closed throttle. So the throttle plate movement exclusively controlled by the PCM with inputs from the throttle pedal and checked 0% input and the plate clicks. This is a strategy in the PCM why? only the engineers know. Stop worrying it is normal. Yeah annoying like the coyote ticky rattle OH MY GOD my engine is going to blow up thrashed on it the last 7 years 110k now still has a ticky rattle not louder. Love this engine came from a 5.4 3v spicy for its day and lasted still going for my son it was overserviced.
Throttle body reset should fix the tick. Let engine completely cool first. Remove neg battery cable. Jump positive to disconnected negative cable for a minute or so. Drain all the capacitors to reset memory values to zero. Reconnect neg cable. Turn key to on, wait for gauge check to complete. Then start and let idle from cold to hot before driving.
I don't know for sure but what I've Been Told from ford and other mechanics the throttle bodies have to be programmed to or truck so if you buy a new one which is 400 bucks $500 you have to pay them to program it mine has been doing it for over a year and it causes no issues other than sounding like somebody's under the hood. I refuse to pay ford more money while I'm paying a big truck payment and give them more money for something they should already fix
So that factory radiator hose has two o rings that can be replaced for $2-$7 bucks. Even though the shops will tell you they can't be, they are full of it.
Yes you are correct but a lot of the time they get brittle and break it's worth a shot but might not last long and yes they are expensive 130 or so from Ford and they say it's best to do both at the same time which I'm sure helps them LOL
Add it to the list of crap wrong with the fords. Shame on me for getting a 2018. So far I've had cam phasers, replaced tail gate, fuel pump (2) and the best of all.... 2 new transmissions. Now it's the way I drive it apparently. It's a truck not a race car
Shit I drive mine like I stole it. The computer has limits it sets. Ford sets them. If it's too much. That's their fault. It seems 2 of same truck same year 1 Vin off and 1 truck will be fine the other will be shit.
You replaced two fuel pumps? Mine died one me 2018 f50 and it threw codes for low fuel pressure…. I’m in the process of getting the pump in and having it replaced. 65000 miles run e85 in it
@@kkassen1 I have never ran a 85 mostly just 87 and I drive the s*** out of my truck no doubt Ivel put 40,000 miles on it in 2 years I've had one cam sensor go bad that shut the truck down ford replaced all kind of stuff to figure out it was a 80 dollar sensor. I think cars and trucks for hit and miss you can get one to last forever then you get one that won't make it five thousand mile
Pull air take put hand over throttle body , care full . it will replicate sound , put large screw driver on throttle body you can hear and feel . I replaced mine , stock , it was dirty on back side . Didn't bother with cleaning . Easy job .
Well my ticking noise dropped 3 cylinders. BAHAHAHAHA 😂😂😂 9 months later after they said a new long block , still ticking. Lol Mine is because the correct oil pressure isn't getting to the tensioners. I think it's from bad casting in the block. And there is no way in hell they put a new block. Surly my luck ain't that bad to get 2 bad blocks. My dad seems to think that's the problem. He has 60 yrs experience and head mechanic at Ford for 20 years and owned his own shop for 40. He said ford had same problem in the mid 80s.
Typical of Ford. Will never see what causes a problem during production, instead they just let it go and then it’s the consumer’s problem. My neighbor payed big bucks for his Platinum F150 and it’s spent more time in the shop than in his driveway. My buddy at work has a Ram and at around 60,000 miles, he started having issues. Another friend has a Nissan Titan and has only done oil changes and has over 100,000 miles on it. SMH
While I have a 2017 doing the same thing and as a mechanic I see things that dont make sense the engineers do their job making no sense to us mechanics but it works. And on a 2nd gen coyote the last of the good ones it idles like silk and zero drivability problems. I think seeing other people seeing the same thing for all intents and purposes it is normal like the ticky rattle the coyote has. Why it does that only the engineers know.
My 2016 just started doing this. Glad I found your video cause trying to find this was definitely driving me crazy! Thanks for putting it out there! Anyone else delt with the stalling out (intake manifold runners/control)and just went the delete route?
My truck is currently with a mechanic. Nobody can ever duplicate the stall. I will get a random stall after running a bit for a while..and sitting at lights it will stall after a minute of idling. Is this what happened to you?
Those T connectors always leak its an oring seated inside it. Not replaced separately through ford (only as full connector) however you can get just the oring aftermarket.
My truck now is clicking like hammers but not affecting anything. I keep planning to take it off and clean it. The last time I hit it with carb cleaner it calmed down
It amazes me how they know these things are gonna happen and they still build them this way i guess they cant build to last forever hey they gotta sale new ones huh ? But they could
I thought I got a good warranty too! Warranty companies figure out how to get out of paying us. Its a waste of money. Warranties are written by lawyers. Whats really a-shame! The warranty companies, manufacturers and sells company have no regard for their reputation.
Perfect. I got 2016 yesterday and two ticks one on driver head and one exactly right here , glad I don’t have to chase one of them. You saved me 50% of my stress :)
I had 1995 f150 ,302 it had lifter tap every Time , started it ,until the Motor warmed up for a minute or two that truck had 155,000 miles when I traded it on my 2014 never had any issues with it put some new shocks on it shock towers water pump very reliable truck I would recommend if you want to buy an old work truck that you can beat the hell out of get a 1995 or 92;93, F150 with a 302 or straight . They’re very noisy motors but they just don’t die..
2016 64K hot idle clicking, no codes. Listened thru stethoscope and it’s obvious, pulled intake boot and watched throttle plate random open close as shown. Replaced throttle body and did relearn all good. Probably the TB lost its mind and couldn’t find “closed” anymore
Yes seems to be a common issue and even under extended warranty ford does not want to fix it. They said it might need a reprogram but after paying them for that they can't promise anything
FWIW I use truck for towing during snowmobile season so I didn’t want it to “fail” during a 10hr trip north. Otherwise I would probably run till failure. Motorcraft replacemnt TB wasn’t obscene from Rockauto.
2015 F250 here... My truck had the same ticking noise and it took me forever to find it. I was sure it was a coil or plug wire arcing. 8 coil packs and 16 spark plugs later and nope..but like you, I found out it was the throttle body by accident.
That's about as bad as the stupid plastic thermostat housings used on the 05 to 09 mustangs and the horror's of the 5.4 3valves plastic chain guides. Ford needs better QC
Holy shit...I have a 2021 Ranger that has a slight ticking at low speeds....I thought maybe it was the direct injectors....but fuck, it could be the throttle body! Damn, I'mma take a look tomorrow.
Great Find. And the Dealers make how much MONEY and 8 times outta 10 "or More" come back with the "Can't Duplicate the Problem"??? I have a BRAND NEW 2022 F-150 with 2400 Miles on the ODO with a Knocking sound/Noise, (To hard to Describe here) that One dealer say's it's "NORMAL" and another Dealer say's NOPE, That Aint Normal, It's gotta be Diaged. That, and this is a 3.5 EB that I swear has the Cold Start Up Rattle, (STILL) Or perhaps this is part of the KNOCKING Issue that I have??? Don't know, but what a PISSER!!!!! $87,000.00 for this UNIT too???!!!
Those irrigation clamps you have on that reservoir hose will expand and get loose when it’s hot they aren’t meant for motors my dealership kept using those on my Jeep wrangler and it kept leaking until I told him to replace all those clips with oem ones and BOOM the leak was fixed!😂
Yes they can get loose but I have about fifteen thousand miles on it with no leaks so far I'm eventually going to get oem ones and do it right. But $130 for a little bit of rubber is ridiculous but that's the way the world is house
I'm going to see probably this weekend I'm putting new spark plugs in going to pull it off in and clean it the best I can and see if it helps. I know using some throttle body cleaner with the intake pipe off did help
Cleaning it will help but actually need a new throttle body and be reprogrammed or they say they can reprogram your old one update it but you have to pay for it and if it don't work you're out of the money
I know this is a strange request. I’m sure you have much better things to do with your time but if I sent you a couple of videos of the sound that my truck was making, would you mind giving them a listen and letting me know what you think? I’d really appreciate it.
No. But I'm about to do plugs and thinking about removing intake to clean it or at least tb. Spraying it with cleaner helped for a few days. Which told me it's at least part of the problem
@@s.t.k.r. remove it completely, its an easy job, clean it thoroughly with spray tb cleaner. I used mother's mag and aluminum polish on mine, thru the bore and on both sides of the plate. Get the edges of the plate as well. It idled better, and had a much crisper throttle response when it was done.
Have 18 f150 5.0, sounds worse than a diesel. They make these things to last long enough to run out the warranty. And your right. Ford says nothing wrong and keeps putting you off until it's out of coverage.
Yes and what I've been told if you buy a new one or used one it has to be reprogrammed by ford. Things are just getting too technical I'm about to go back old-school LOL
It's Electronically controlled I don't know if a new throttle body will help it Ford says it needs to be reprogrammed I'm going to update after I take mine off and clean it I used some throttle body cleaner while it was still on the intake and it helped for about a month
I had the same throttle body clicking as you did. Its simply a dirty throttle body. The dirt and build-up snags with the flap. Your throttle body is clearly very dirty. Hope this helps.
Yes I clean mine it got quiet for a few days now it is barely ticking Ford dealership said they could reprogram it but couldn't promise anything but they would charge LOL
I have a 2016 5.0 also. I just cleaned my TB and did Seafoam spray treatment. I never noticed the ticking until I got ready to do the cleaning. Anyways - doing both really worked wonders with the throttle response and just seems to run smoother. I haven't had any issues at all with my truck but I'm trying to keep it that way.
@@s.t.k.r. Its not, and I'll show you how to tell. When you go into the module programming section of IDS, look at the list of all programable modules. If its not on that list, you can't program it. You may be thinking of the abs pump where the module bolts to the pump itself. That can be programmed because its an actual module. I know it may look that way, but its not. There is a relearn procedure, but its automatic, and is done by the PCM. You can speed up the relearn process a bit by touching the battery cables together to drain the excess electricity in the system first, and then let the vehicle idle for a few minutes. But its not necessary, and the relearn takes place in the pcm. The PCM is the module for the throttle body, just like it is for injectors, coils, O2 sensors, etc. In my first post, I said that only modules can be programmed. While that's true, there can be some confusion. Certain parts, like free running actuators, need to be "programmed", or "learned". Things like Window actuators, sun roof and sunshade actuators and wiper motor actuators, can all be directly "programmed". When you program a module, you remove and replace actual software. When you program actuators, no software is involved. Since the actuators are free running, they need stop values, or range of operation. Those values are stored in the actuator itself. Just as an example, look at how wipers work. On traditional wiper systems, you have 1 motor that spins a lever in a circle that moves the rods that the wiper arms bolt on to. You don't have to program anything. You put the wiper arms on in the right spot, and everything works fine. On wiper arm actuators, that's not the case. Each arm gets its own free running actuator. These actuators are not connected to each other mechanically, and they share no information. If you don't program range of motion into each actuator, the wiper arms will crash into each other. Its easy to confuse this type of "programming", with an actual software update. Sorry for any confusion. I should have explained all this in my original post.
@@169abr Ford has new updated cam phasers available they are just hard to find right now. Just make sure they are the new style if you have to replace them. I think Fordtechumechlo (sic) did a recent RU-vid video on updated cam phasers.
I have a 2023 Mustang GT, California Special with just over 5500 miles on it. The other day, I had the hood up and was putting windshield washer fluid in, and I heard this random metal on metal clicking noise. In about one minute, it did it about 3 to 5 times. Then, it would just disappear. I had my friend listen and he thinks its in the front of the motor and down by the pulleys. When I give it a little throttle, he said it goes away. Your noise sounds exactly like mine does, but mine just does not do it as often. No codes, no stalling and no drive-ability issues. I'll bring it up at my next service. Thanks for the video!
It's pretty simple if you're comfortable just pull your intake off and you can watch it but if it's not doing it all the time it might be tough to see it
@@s.t.k.r. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined. LOL! I'll mention it to the dealer when I bring it in for my next service. It's a shame I have this noise with only 5k miles on it:(
I just bought my 23' GT manual 4 months ago and it has 4000 miles on it now. Had the hood up while it was running to show some friends and low and behold, the intermittent popping near the front of the intake manifold comes and go every 15- 20 seconds then itll disappear. Upon closer inspection it is definitely the throttle body popping as i can hear the whole engine change tone ever so slightly each time it does it. Like you I dont have any codes and car drive perfectly fine so not sure whats up but im going to take it in and get it fixed under warranty because it should not be doing that at idle. Im worried tho that even if they replace it with a new oem throttle body whos to say it wont just happen to that one too? Poor quality parts if you ask me
