I just watched your video. It good to see someone who can still make sheet metal fittings. I learned a long time ago how to make fittings from old school tin bangers. I miss the trade, I had to retire a couple years ago due medical issues.
This takes me back many years . A very old friend of my fathers was a tinsmith . I would go and help him in the shop from time to time , shearing , running the Pittsburgh , assembling , etc. I learned a lot from him . I ended up as a carpenter though , knowing how this all worked helped me out later building houses. I always knew when the guy hanging duct was trying to pull the wool on me when he said he could not do something the way I wanted it .
I spent some time in a union shop many years ago It was very memorable watching this. I've a pretty well equipped garage now with a few metal cutting saws and a few more for wood. I've a 3 foot shear and a 4 foot pan brake. Day after tomorrow I'm going to look at a powered 4 foot slip roll - keep on buildin' 😎 I've subbed and will check out what else you've posted thanks
Wow awesome man glad to see it laid out for once other than a computer and plasma table for fittings and I got a old timer teaching me so much and he knows the old ways just don’t have to do it that way no more computer does lays out our fittings and we have to run them after that great video man. Also the guy teaching me likes to roll his heels the Pittsburgh it will roll around in the machine perfectly at least it does with the Machine we have. Have a great day!
I am very happy to hear that you have a chance to work with a guy who has layout knowledge, Trust me this knowledge often helps us sheet metal workers on job sites. Yes you can roll heels and large throats coming out of Pittsburgh lock machine, There are so many tricks and the best way to learn all these tricks is from other workers. :)
It's neat to see how other fab is done. I own a precision sheet metal and machine shop (lasers and turret punches) and always tell customers who try and put down "Tin knockers" as there work is easy and mine is more difficult that they (the customer) are wrong. Tin knocking is an art. I appreciate your video and knowledge.
This is exactly the method i have used, while traing shop fabricators, over the years, its funny because they are always amazed i can do it without a plasma table, i was also waiting for you to use the peewee tape as well, awesome hand layout shortcut, well done!!!
Hi Jacob, my punch mark was exactly 8 and1/4” from the left side of my sheet. My stated 8” measurement was from the 1/4” punch mark you can barely see.
If you make some strips of metal an inch or so wide by as long as you throats and heels and insert into Pittsburgh before you roll it, you don't need to open them up before assembly, simply pull the strips out after you roll it and its ready for assembly.
Your 100% bang on with the comment, thanks! I assure you that I do show my students the strip inserted into the pocket and I definitely allow them to choose whatever method they prefer. At the same time I make sure to tell them time is money and there is a few ways of completing different tasks but at the end of the day they need to be accurate, neat, fast. I simply find it quicker using the hammer for my lock opening most of the time. ⛏
Correct me if im wrong, but when you're doing the stretch out for your heel shouldn't it be 13 x 1.57, not 12.5 x 1.57? Because your radius is 5" plus the width which is 8, so 13 x 1.57, right?
Hello Greg, if you take a second look at the video at 9:40, you will see that I use a swing radius 12.5” for Heel and 4.5” for the throat. The reason is that I am working or swinging from the 1” line also known as the working line. Laying out fittings from the 1”line is good practice especially when sides are tapering, it allows the necessary straight for the “S” cleat. The most important thing at the end of the day is that we have a finished radius as per shop ticket, and we will. I hope I was of help😀🇨🇦
@@sheetmetalwork thanks for the reply... its been a while since I've done any lay out... that makes sense, but im almost positive that when I was taught to do it, I would have done 5 and 13 for throat and heel... is that normal for people to do 5 and 13? Also good video, I know there are harder fittings out there to lay out, but you explained it well, and it would be easy to follow for someone new to the trade
@@greglandry1225 Swinging from the 5 and 13 are often done, It just depends on who’s teaching it and what book they prefer to follow. It was a pleasure chatting with you, have a great weekend.
@@sheetmetalwork The pleasure was all mine, it was good chatting with you as well... I subscribed and plan to watch more of your videos... maybe if I get stuck on something you'd be willing to help if you have time... thanks again
Life hack: Stuff two strips of scrap sheet metal into the Pittsburgh on the throat/heel before sending it through the roller and it keeps the seem from being over-compressed. Assembly is easier and the seem looks far better on any exposed work.
@@sheetmetalwork I wish some of the equipment was more affordable. I generally prefer to make more architectural or weird stuff like light covers, weird duct transitions (made a 5x8 rectangle to 6" round once) and have made a few picture frames... on some exposed work I'll even hand bend the Pittsburgh to prevent marring on the final product One of my favorite feelings is when these weird fittings get assembled perfectly, the first try with no wasted material.
For radius cheeks, you could use if available a manual rotary easy edger, and if that’s not available, worst case scenario pliers, hand dolly wit a hammer.
A union trained layout man can shear the heel and throat blanks using a calculator for stretch-out lenght. Just saying..... The 1/4" tape is a good way to double check your math😊
@@sheetmetalworkwhat is the tool called that you’re using to help put the pieces together that you’re hitting with the side of the hammer to open up the slot for a easier fit then putting the pieces together Thank you Hope you can let me know 👍🏻
Are there equivalent hand tools to do this? I'd like to do some of this, but don't have money for the machines. Metal forming airtools, or drill attachments? Thanks
Everything is possible Steven If you're prepared to spend a lot of time at it. You would need hand benders or what some may call flat vise grips to fab the Heel and Throat seams, you would need a set of pliers to turn a edge on the Cheeks and a peice of round pipe used instead of a roller. Oh! bring lots of patience :) but it can be done.
@@sheetmetalwork I have the flat vice grips, my buddy has an 18" bead roller, I'd have to see which dies he has though. I also have one of the "hand break" 22" that does the inch, and 3/8" bends. I guess I need to find a site that shows me the progression of the roll, in case I need a couple more dies. Thanks!
Its been a while but for my s&d i allowed 1/2" per connection. I see you use 2 inches. I guess Canada duct is different than USA. Our finish drive cleat is only 11/8". I couldn't imagine having to drive a 2 inch drive on (@9:44 you say 2 inches for connecting) may as well use duct mate🤷
Ask any Sheet Metal JOURNEYMAN in the USA, as a matter of fact I was born and raised in Massachusetts. I may be wrong but i’m guessing by your comment that you don’t have much sheet metal educational training yet? How do you get an “S” cleat on a tapering fitting? Jason, we both know that an S is 1”Eh! 🇺🇸🇨🇦….no need to disrespect another country.
S & D are the most popular with smaller sizes, but as the fittings get larger we would typically go with another type of connector. PDFs? Not at the moment, sorry.
Ustedes saben como se llaman las herramientas que uso el aquí Para rayar el radio ? Pará darle el flashing ? Y la que uso para darle con el hammer para armar el radio ? Gracias de antemano
This is somewhat hard to explain without a duct fitting in front of you but I’ll do my best. First of all, this isn’t a basic layout fitting, it is what we call triangulation,,,,you are going to have to let go of what you already know as being top and bottom. In the sheet-metal trade every fitting has numbers/sizes and information needed for it to fit properly. First start by imagining a certain fitting,,,, it can be an elbow, an offset or even a transition. If I would ask you to sketch one of these fittings on paper, you would be sketching the top,,,If the sketch is of an elbow, I’m hoping you would have drawn something that looks like a cheek. This is called the top cheek and we must state if it’s sloping and if so? It may be FOT, Top down 2”. Now if that didn’t confuse you, I could also state, the sketch of the elbow you have drawn can be the bottom cheek 😳, which can be many things such as FOB, Bottom up or down.🫣.
@@sheetmetalwork thank you. Great explanation, I think I have somewhat of an understanding now. Like you said that’s one of the things together hands on would make more sense.
Flat on bottom or top, simply means. that side of the duct. had no offset. It is the straight side. the opposite side will have all the offset. Where as a center line fitting the offset will be both sides, typically equal.
Before you roll the two Pittsburgh parts, just slip a scrap piece of metal a couple inches wide and at least the length of the wrapper and throat into the Pittsburgh seam. Then roll it. You will never need to open the Pittsburgh seam, because it won’t get pinched in the roller. The 3/16” edge will easily slip in. A real time saver. Another time saver on the Pittsburgh wrapper, as it’s coming out of the Pittsburgh machine, start to roll it up. Do this on both sides. After you catch on, it very unlikely you will need to use the roller on lighter metal. Plus you can do the same on the longer part of your Ogee offsets, saving more time.
