I was trying to help troubleshoot a friends furnace last night. Had flame, blower on, but no heat, solid red light on control board. I do remember not having continuity on igniter(other video called this flame sensor), but wasn't sure if closed when it warmed or something. I think this is the fix though. Going to buy one and swap it. Thanks for the video! *Edited to say I got it fixed! Lol, it wasn't the ignitor. It was actually a spider web in the orifice, exactly like in your other video. I wouldn't have known to check that if I hadn't been looking through your videos. Thanks again man.
Appreciate the help! My igniter blew on Thanksgiving weekend, of course. Could not find a Nordyne igniter so ordered one to come in 5 days from Amazon. A universal one came in 2 days. Getting down. To 9⁰ F in 4 days so I found it is REALLY simple to make the universal one wor by taking off the old bracket (it is the little screw by the igniter and putting the bracket on the new igniter. Perfect!! I'll send the Nordyne one back when it comes.
Amazing! Thank you. It was hard for me to cross reference the model number of the furnace with the replacement igniters they have in stock at the store. But you helped me figure it out. Much appreciated
You're so much help, THANKS! I went ahead and took the orifice off and the spud that holds it (663699r spud) . I had too many issues with that spider. I found out turning the gas off in the summer helps keep the spider away because its attracted to the gas smell
This igniter also doubles as this furnaces flame sensor. This is why it needs to be at that precise angle and should be replaced with the correct model.
Thank you for this video My M1M went out middle of night on worst day. Near 1° & 15inches of snow. Mine ignited gas but as soon as blg blower came on it goes out. First red light steady, no blink Yellow on at ignition No green After blower comes on yellow goes out I am 77 & cold, wife 75
Hi, I have the Intertherm 2012 unit MIM. It is leaking water everywhere inside and it smells like chemicals, like a very strong glue. This all started when the hvac guy came to inspect and service the unit. First thing that happened was it was clicking a lot but I left town the day after. I came home a week later and it was still clicking a lot and I found that the red valve was vertical and the yellow led light wasn’t staying on and the flame wasn’t staying lit. I eventually started adjusting the red valve and found that the light would stay on. That was good. The next morning, today, the heater wouldn’t start and there was a lot more water in the flat areas and the red led light was blinking. I got the pressure switch to open and now it is working. My question is why all the water? It looks like it is coming from the flue that is sitting on the motor.
Hi Randy, I have checked for blockages , checked igniter and checked the venting for blockage all 3 are fine. What else could it be for lockout due to failed ignition? Thank you for the videos
my problem is that the temperature of the air at the outlets is too low therefore the furnace have to kick in too often, my boiler is the M1MB. I hope you can give me an advise to resolve this problem, your videos are great. Thanks Wilfrido from Moonachie NJ
Your video was really informative but I spent $113 on an igniter I didn’t need. If you could have provided more information about what it could be would have been nice. My issue was the vent at the top of the house was to rotted out. I’m now $600 in the hole. Anyone reading this, check your blower it can be plugged. The two rubber tubes going to it; try to blow in them. if you got no circulation remove the blower and check it it froze off. For me it was the vent on top of the house being to corroded to circulate air. I paid a lot of money getting it fixed and I hope you guys who see this don’t. The error I got was the red light flashed twice. Check your blower. Make sure it works. You can test it by pulling the plug out and blowing into it then pinching it off. (Red light flashing) once you do that it should stay solid red. If it’s giving you the yellow light even after changing the igniter then it’s the ventilation. If it can’t keep a flame even after changing the igniter the vent at the top of the house might be rotted out. That’s what it was for me.
Hello, I’m sorry to hear about your troubles with the furnace. The trouble that we are talking about here was ignition failure, signified by one flash on your diagnostic code. You indicated you had a two flash problem which the furnace tells you is a pressure problem, or the start up phase of the furnace before ignition. What was it that made you replace the igniter? Did you test it like on the video? We are talking here about ignition failure indicated on the flash code as one flash, not the pressure system, indicated by the two flashes. Again, sorry to hear your furnace is having issues.
My igniter works. Furnace fires up but blower doesn’t come on so furnace shuts off. Major updates to this issue. So complex will be hard to follow. The blower didn't work because it needed a capacitor. Put one on, crossed the wires at the tstat and blower comes on. Great! Nope. Put everything back together and ignitor glows, furnace fires up and still shuts off within seconds. I put on a new ignitor thinking it wasn't sensing flame as it should. Then the big trouble started. The new ignitor was not glowing so I wiggled the wires and it started sparking and popped like a light bulb. So I get yet another ignitor. Now this one isn't glowing. Board isn't sending power. Pull the board and wow... big burn mark behind it. That ignitor popping burned out the board too. So I get a new board. some confusion here because the board i'm taking out doesn't have the same model number as schematic on the back of the door panel. It is 624240. Must be a replacement from the original. Unit is 18 years old at this point. . I can't find this new board number but found one on amazon that cross references to it. 903429 is supposed to be the upgrade to it.. Install it and the red light is flashing rapidly. I think it's a bad board so I order a replacement. Same thing, rapid red light flashing. No power being sent to ignitor. Nothing happens at all. No draft induce motor, no blower. BUT... If I unplug the white plug in the middle of the board, both motors start to run, and keeps running when I plug back in. I hear the click for the ignitor, but does not glow and everything shuts down. Tstat has 24v to blower and AC but only 21v to the heat. A clue? Could I have gotten TWO defective boards from Amazon? Or maybe despite being visually identical, this board is not the correct replacement? And final edit: apparently it either was two defective boards or the 903429 is not compatible. I was able to get a true 624340 and it works.
I know this is an old video but I need some help and you seem to know what your talking about. I have an intertherm furnace in my mobile home, this summer i had to replace the capacitor in outside unit. Now fall is here and i turned on my heater and within a minute my system started buzzing and my thermostat had automatically switched to aux heat. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING. If you see this please respond what you think this could be.
Damn. This is a very helpful video. My furnace is 6 years old M1M. And for the first time I got four red flashing lights "lockout due to failed ignition". I am troubleshooting now. I'm going to test with multimeter as you suggested first. Then check the orphice...and then if still not working the roof vent. I was also told maybe the ignition control? Hopefully it doesnt come down to that. What do you think? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for checking out the video. You definitely want to follow the video and check each of those things. Most of the time the failed ignition has nothing to do with the control board/circuit board. You should be good there! 😊
@@davinadolph2008 Update: tested the igniter with my multimeter and nothing! I found one on amazon for 38 bucks. Not bad at all thanks again for your video!
Hello, I have a furnace like this and it stopped working last night. Its making all of the clicking noises but doesnt start blowing. Also my red light is solid red its not flashing at all. What does that mean? Could it be that gas is not getting to it or what?
I would recommend turning the power off at the switch on the furnace. Let it sit for a couple of minutes then turn it back on. See if it will cycle through it proceedures. If it stops again, check the light. See if you see any flashing. Hopefully you will get a flash code if there is a problem. If not, you can carefully open and look at the ignitor to see if it has been burned out. I hope this will help. Let us know. Thank you for watching!!
I have an M1MC 070ABW that ignites runs for a few minutes then flame goes out. It will then re lite and go out again after a minute. I have replaced the flame sensor with the correct one. Weak flame code at times. I have checked for spiders. It does not do this all the time. Very inconsistent. Furnace is propane and about 15 yrs old. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
George F, hello. The M1M going out like that is most often because it is not sensing the flame. When you say you replace the flame sensor, that must mean you replaced the ignition, as on this model the igniter acts as the flame sensor. They found during the warranty process o; these furnaces that the igniter/flame sensor would do this if the tip of the igniter was not all the way angled into the flame. I would check that and also a question, are you able to witness the flame going outside? If so, does the flame shut snap off or does it get lazy and weaker as it goes out? This would indicate an air flow problem. To sum up, if the igniter is new, and into the flame, with a strong flame and it snaps out, it is most likely a circuit board issue. The periodic problems with furnaces are the worst kind. Thanks for the question.
I friend! I have this same unit. The problem i am having is what looks like a legit weak flame. It ignites, stays on for a good 30 seconds or so, then kicks off. The air coming out never gets very warm even though i got a long flame. I can smell gas while the flame is lit and the flame is a bit more orange then what i think it should be. Induction fan maybe?
@@dwell771 take the orifice out and look in the gas valve. Spiders Love to make nests in gas valves. Clean it out if you find a nest. This was my problem.
Today I noticed furnace coming on and off a lot more. I checked the light codes and it says weak flame with flashing yellow light. What can I do myself for this? Thanks so much Grateful wife
an easier side question. I have the double wall roof jack for my M1M of course. But I also have an additional fresh air inlet. At 8:17 you can see an oval that can be punched out. On mine it is and there is a flex vent, like a dryer, out through the roof. Why would I have both?
That is designed to allow some fresh air from outside to mix with the return air. So something totally different from the air needed for flame, combustion air, which is sealed from the air of the home, this vent mixes with air that flows through the vents and returns back to the furnace. If you look on your roof you will see a vent off to the side a little from the furnace roof Jack. It’s a blend air system for the return air.
@@randydolph852 I did see the extra vent and then realized what it was for. Seems not very efficient to pull in cold outside air and mix with the air warm air trying to heat the home. I understand the need for the combustion air from the inducer. Why does mine have the extra vent and this one doesn’t? Problem if I disconnect it and seal it off?
Im done with this furnace. Over the last 3 months ive needed it one. Month and each time its broken. I fixed it twice already and tonight i get home house is cold so turn yhe heat on and nothing keeps cycling trying to light gas come is can smell it but igniter doesnt turn res hot to light it.
Hello, I'm not sure if you respond on here but I'm having an issue with my furnace ( when it feels like working) and I'm very concerned about it starting a fire, what should the inside look like where the pilot light is when it turns on? Cause when it wants to work it looks like a full on fire inside of the furnace through the little hole. Please if anyone knows it would be greatly appreciated, Thank you!
Wow.. great video, I have an M1M, was getting a flashing yellow light. I changed the igniter/flame senser. All light are working as expected, after about 15 or so minutes running the red light goes out at the same time, 1-2 seconds later the yellow light goes off and the furnace tums off. Any thoughts.. thanks
Hello, we recently had a similar question that was asked. Here is the response my technician gave. I hope this helps! "The M1M going out like that is most often because it is not sensing the flame. When you say you replace the flame sensor, that must mean you replaced the ignition, as on this model the igniter acts as the flame sensor. They found during the warranty process o; these furnaces that the igniter/flame sensor would do this if the tip of the igniter was not all the way angled into the flame. I would check that and also a question, are you able to witness the flame going outside? If so, does the flame shut snap off or does it get lazy and weaker as it goes out? This would indicate an air flow problem. To sum up, if the igniter is new, and into the flame, with a strong flame and it snaps out, it is most likely a circuit board issue. The periodic problems with furnaces are the worst kind." Thanks for the question.
Statty Travels, Hello. The yellow light is just meaning that the igniter, which is acting also as a flame sensor, is at this moment receiving heat. That’s why a weak flame, or not enough heat, causes it to flash. With the red light going out, that is usually a circuit board issue. Any time there is power to the unit, the red light either stays on, or flashes a code. It’s loosing power somewhere. Does the red light stay off for a time? That indicates a circuit board problem
WRONG WRONG. Just because you have continuity does NOT mean it's good. Instead set your meter to the lowest OHM reading and repeat your probes insert to both sides of plug and read the resistance. If it's more then 75 ohms - specs say it is bad and needs to be replaced. Also try to clean the igniter with super fine emery cloth or even sand paper but be extremely gentle because these are extremely fragile. I had to replace a bad igniter that tested to 250 ohms, yes it glowed - dim - just not bright enough. Plus buy from Amazon for 18-21 dollars, local mark-ups can be insane for example the last I bought (could not wait even the 2 days for A) was $45 locally.
Thanks for sharing. Not a great idea to replace an ignitor because a tester reads over 75. Try to go through the sequence of operations is the best diagnostic tool to start. If you get to igniter and then flame and loose flame then focus on the meter. To narrow this search however, check for continuity before you tare into it and start messing with the ignitor.
@@randydolph852 Respectfully - that's just the official specs - google it. The last one I did, did glow, did continuity check, but 250 ohms, once replaced tho fired right up. So just because there's continuity and glowing it may not be glowing enough. BUT on your side tho another time one read 95 ohms and glowed fine, but turned out a too old gas valve replace and the 95 fired up fine. Also the combustion air flu slides up and down not the exhaust flu - if I listened right you said it slid up and down - on older models Intertherm/Nordyne vent kit I've worked on the exhaust flu isn't adjustable (inside) it can't go up and of course can't go down it seats out at the furnace. When you can't change the existing vent and/or have to cut the exhaust (the other flu slides up easily) in order to remove old unit - then what? You go to a well equipped sheet metal fabricator and fabricate a 5 1/16th" x 3.5" tall to 4" tall piece spot welded to another smaller 4 15/16th say 4" tall or more depending you get a 3 piece unit that the exhaust will slide up to install the replacement furnace and then down to seat at furnace- THEN you can use existing vent because now the exhaust vent slides up the INSIDE of the existing exhaust secure the dual section with 3 screws and use red silicon over screws and joint. It saves the day. The last time I had one made it was $20 - $40 it takes a pro with software and modern equipment etc about 15-20 minutes to make.
Thanks for all the info. With regards to the flue, I try not to fabricate any of those and alway when replacing get them from the manufacturer. Darn things are expensive though. I am meaning the flues you buy from the factory are telescoping, used to accommodate a variety of heights and thus when you are looking for a replacement you don’t have to get the exact size because it will move inside of itself to telescope to the correct height. Thanks for the discussion. Maybe it’ll help someone.
Sorry for the late reply. Did you take the valve all the way out? That comes out first and then the burner assembly. It is a pain for sure and a fragile igniter is to be thought on, but it is sometimes the case that you need to lift the back up some once all the screws are out. Are you getting any movement at all? The nut on the back of the valve does not need to be removed as it comes out with the valve.
@@randythemobilehomeguy3715 I watched your video a couple times after I brought the part and I had to pull up like you showed. I was so afraid of breaking something else ..I got it ‼️ ‼️Thank you so much for posting this . I found a fried chipmunk in there and then I took the shop vac and put it up the stack and found another fried friend. They must have chewed the ignitor before getting baked lol.
does the yellow flame light stay on all the time or only when the igniter is lit? we been having issues and not sure is it is supposed to stay on all the time
Hello, power to the gas valve comes from the circuit board after igniter. If it’s not, after igniter glows, is often means bad board. Thanks for the reply
Ok followed this instructions for replacing a failed ignitor a few months ago. And the furnace worked. Now a few months later the new ignitor has that gray rubbery tip completed burned off. What caused this to happen? Any one
Hi.... please help me. my heater has been broken for almost 4 years or more. Mine goes thought every check besides thag last timer switch.... the blower i guess... the last step to blow the heat, it shuts off.
Hello, does your thermostat have a switch to start the blower, ‘fan’ off or auto? If so, does that usually work to turn the blower on? We need to Eliminate the blower as the problem. So, when the flame comes on, does it stay on for a while like a minute or two or does it go off after only a few seconds. Large flame?
No fault flashing, induction fan goes, clicking happens, Gas valve turns on sends gas (I tested it putting the 24v direct to it gas came out) I can smell it when it is all hooked up also, no ignition. Igniter checks good with continuity. I put my meter in the plug that connects to the igniter and it showed no power when I turned the furnace on, then .5 v when the gas valve turned on. Anyone know what it could be? I’ve changed the mother board, thermostat, induction fan, and igniter (universal) < could that be the problem??
How strong is your pilot light? Does it look as big and as sharp as it used to, or is it a smaller lazy flame? It is possible that the pilot burner is dirty and needs to be cleaned , if you have already installed a new thermocouple, or the tip of the thermocouple is not positioned in the flame correctly
Hello, I have a video ‘ignition failure on a mobile home furnace’. Usually weak flame is due to clogged orifice. If you are getting the reading of ‘weak flame’ on a Coleman furnace but the flame looks okay then clean the flame sensor with an emery cloth. If an Interthem or nordyne furnace then move igniter a bit more into the flame as on the most common ones of that brand the igniter is the flame sensor
Now winter is almost here and I still cannot get fuel to the ignition . I have a glowing hot ignition but no fuel . Cannot light it manually either so I have a complete fuel cutoff issue . What do I need to replace to get the fuel working?
