Fallkniven S1 Pro: The Knife You Want 

knife. is a hell of a drug

I agree, about $400 here in the US it is very expensive. Luckily I bought one before the price hike, and it is a great knife. Just getting into LionSteel knives though, seem to be a much better value. What do you use to mirror polish the edge? I am a novice sharpener and would love to become more skilled, starting suggestions? Thanks, you guys have very interesting videos.

Dutch Bushcraft Knives I bought S1 Pro here in Sweden for 2900kr (290 dollars) on www.outnorth.se

Standard price was 462$, then it was on sale for 416$, then with coupon i got it for 290$.

Amazon has it for $300 for here in the USA

The price in Australia now is AUD479.95 av. I bought a Cudeman MT-5 for AUD129.95 instead. 5mm blade, 95mm blade, Bohler N695 steel with an HRC of 60. The Fallkniven is nice, but not $500 nice :).

Thanks! we do our best

+Dutch Bushcraft Knives yea I agree you guys deserve way more subscribers. Every share and like and subscribe to there channel. Just sharing it on Facebook or where lever may go a long way and add some for them.

thanks a lot Ryan. It is highly appreciated! Best to you!

reading this comment 8 months after and you guys have 130k subs!!!!!!

Well they have

thanks billy!

mike oehlke did you get it!?

+Erik Jensen that must be the best fathersday present ever haha

We have our eyes set on the benchmade bushcraft for the future! so i'm very curious!

Its not as pretty ... but i built most of a shelter with it, with some help from my Bahco Laplander saw which everyone should have in there backpack. Fits in your pocket too. I also purchased a nice kydex sheath from www.godspeedtactical.com/. Great knife.

Hey while were on the subject. Another great bushcraft knife brand is Esse. I have the Esse 4.. my wife uses it. The only problem it has is its carbon steel and it does rust over time. Its probably sharper than the benchmade and it has the thumb choiles which i like, and the benchmade although it does not have that is still a tank.

Hey Jay, I had the esee 4. to be honest.. it's the worst knife I ever had. The 55-57 HRC on the 1095 steel is way to soft for a knife that small. It didn't hold an edge in a good edge angle. The angle esee gives the knife from the factory is about 45-50c which is unusable for bushcrafting. here in the netherlands the esee 4 with sheath is about $170,-. no $170,- knife should have 1095 in it. 1095 is a budget steel. However I do have good experiences with 1095-Crro-van from the becker bk2. It was not amazing but it was very decent for the price. I do love the robust feel from esee and the kydex sheath which is very excellent. Hope you don't mind my opinion about the esee haha. I bet I would love the Benchmade a lot though.

Yes your correct. I think that the steel is compromised with Esse knives. I do like the grip on it with the finger choil.

thanks a lot! good purchase!

thanks a lot James! we appreciate it!

thanks a lot mate!

Thanks a lot! We really appreciate the kind words! All the best to you!

thanks a lot Alex!

Ive gone through like 15 mora 2000s since you wrote that comment :D

thanks a lot mate and congrats on the great purchase! I hope it will bring you a lot of joy!

It sure does! the V1L is a unique looking blade but with the CoS there is no doubt it's awesome. thanks for the comment mate! -stay sharp

thanks a lot mate!

thanks a lot! we sure will!

Thank you very much sir

Thanks! We do the editing ourselves. Sometimes Mikkie B, sometimes Maarten. Cheers!! and thank you for your kind words!

it would make a great video for sure! we'll keep it in mind!

@@DutchBushcraftKnives you could now make a comparison with the s1x because It Is more similar about the price too... And i am undecided on which One to take

@@DutchBushcraftKnives if you Want you could Just tell me here in the comments which One Is Better at doing the things you've done in the video( batoning, chopping, fire making) in your opinion

wow thanks a lot! we really appreciate that mate! cheers!

+Mick Walker thanks a lot! You are very welcome!

bedankt Jos!

thanks a lot mate! we plan to continue for a long time!

Could you do a review of the cold steel srk san may III??

thanks a lot jager!

+Bigfoot Bushcraft thanks mate! Sorry to hear that you got scammed. Hope you'll get to try the real thing! Cheers!

One of our favorites!

A saw is great in combination with a batonning knife. I enjoy batonning a lot more than splitting wood with an axe axtually. I love batonning wood next to the fire place. I wouldn't want to be chopping wood in the dark with an axe.

Haha - well I can certainly sympathize with the love part, no argument. Well-being after all is instrumental to survival. I am not sure I am completely on board with the darkness thing. It's very rarely completely dark and if it is I don't know why a knife would be much safer granted you possess muscle memory axe proficiency. Personally I tend to combine a stock classic stock wood handle mora with an indonesian parang I bough ages ago. Not even the jungle kind this one has more of a turnip chopper vibe going. But it's great. The thing is I hardly ever chop or cleave wood. I just find the right sizes and break them into the desired lengths roughly. once the fire is going I'll just gradually burn trunks and big blocks and save the sweat. And if my goal was producing a lot of nice similar size pieces of varying thickness I'd just bring an axe instead of my parang and save the energy and the knife blade.

thanks for your explanation! I can understand completely! The love part is my biggest reason!

YEah. Knives are great ;D

thanks a lot mate!

thanks a lot mate!

We both use Naniwa Chosera stones. Basic set up is 400 grit, 1000 grit, 3000 grit and 5000 grit. If need be we also have a 120 grit, 8k and 12k stone. Both chosera and Shapton ha-no-kuromaku are excellent!

thanks a lot for the comment! The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be. I think that should also translate to the cutting abilities. I agree on what you say though. These CoS blades seem to get a real thin apex. I think it also depends on the steel. One steel molecules might break off more easily than other stronger bonded steels on the out most microscopic apex. I believe that thickness of a sword also helps to increase weight which is needed for penetration but you would know this best haha. thanks!

hate youtubes new reply system - it says you replied twice but can only see one sorry. Yeah sword weight (and point of balance) are really important for making sure the edge gets into the target. More so for cutting, less so for thrusting and stabbing. Blade weight is important for parrying too, if its a light sword you'll struggle to knock aside a heavier blade. "The thickness of the blade and the point where the bevel starts are a factor in what the minimum angle of the apex will be" - so the studies etc that I've seen show that (damn, itd be a lot easier if I could show you a diagram) the edge on what you would think are quite thin and sharp looking blades often have - under a microscope - really quite rounded edges (and I don't mean secondary bevels or something - that is way too big a scale - we're talking molecular level here) now they still actually do cut so when I say "rounded" I'm not talking about a blunt edge or something, I'm basically talking about how small a scale you can get to, zooming in on the edge under a microscope, before the edge starts to look rounded... and the difference can be unbelievable really, very sharp knives you can basically keep zooming in on the tip and then zoom in again and you keep seeing that edge - on a knife that seems blunt this edge disappears as soon as you start using it (it collapses immediately upon contact basically) and on a knife that seems sharp its all about its ability to retain that edge. When I talk about edge retention again the scale is tiny, we're not talking like over an afternoon we're talking like over a split second. All I'm saying really is that way more emphasis is placed on the visible macro geometry of a blade than it really deserves - the paper I read made it clear that the primary factor is the micro geometry at the edge and the overall thickness of the blade made almost no real difference. For an example of this in swords - if you look at Katana and other similar japanese swords they're generally really thick blades when compared with most other swords and the edge geometry is really quite steep - they're not acute at all - but they're really really sharp - some of the sharpest swords around - because they hold their edge really well. That isn't entirely why they cut so well but it is a big part of it. A german medieval longsword in comparison is basically blunt - you can run your hand over the edge (despite their thinner blades and sharper visible edge angle) but they still cut quite well when swung with a lot of force. Anyway, hope thats interesting!

thanks a lot for the explanation ! this sure is interesting to read for sure! thanks a lot for sharing I really appreciate it!

you're welcome. I should also mention that - and I'm sure you know this really - that the thickness and macrogeometry of the blade is very important for other reasons like strength and weight and how good at splitting wood and making feather sticks it is etc but in particular its important to how you strop or re-sharpen the blade (and also how they sharpened it at the factory) - so for example a scandi ground blade or flat ground blade with no secondary bevel is significantly easier to strop and resharpen than a blade with a secondary bevel and the result of that is that your scandi or flat ground (like a lot of Bark River blades) seem to be much sharper knives. Typically on knives with secondary bevels (or micro bevels) you strop them all day and you've never actually touched the edge at all, you just polish the bevel line and it looks and feels like you've sharpened it but you havent. Knife makers often put secondary bevels on what they feel to be low quality steel - which is most knives really - even some high end knives have secondary bevels on and the manufacturer does this because they think the steel chips or rolls easily - or more easily than on their better steel knives - and this makes the knifes edge last a little longer. The sad thing with this is that they're just ruining their knives really, they'd be better of without a secondary bevel, modern steel doesnt require microbevels, so when you pay all that extra money for a good steel quality actually what you're paying for is for a knife that doesnt have a micro-bevel - this is why Mora are so damn good, because they just leave off the microbevel and then they laminate cheap steel and it holds up. Even Bark River put microbevels on their high end super 3V steel blades, its crazy.

hotsteamypudding the blade thickness is important for edc tasks like cutting through an apple. When you have something with a 6mm thick spine like a Medford Praetorion you cannot slice the apple up. You need to split it apart. For a sword or a bushcraft knife the thickness isn't important, because you swing the knife/sword most of the time. When you want a good EDC Slicer get one with a thin blade

We made a sharpening video about two weeks ago! The key is just go to a very very high grit and sharpen consistently. Otherwise you can also use a dremel to polish up everything but the edge. Use fine compound! Cheers man

Duh, I completely missed that! Thanks :)

thanks a lot mate we appreciate it.

+Will Sweet thanks a lot will!

Hey, I don't completely agree with you. A lot of knives are indeed made for finer work but there are also a lot of knives these days which are built for these kind of tasks. The concept of a survival knife is in fact a knife that can replace things like an axe if need be. Many of these survival knives are actually not as good in the finer tasks as lets say a smaller carpenters knife. I also really enjoy splitting wood with my knives. It's very relaxing and even very practical if you need to split wood next to your fire bowl and you don't have the room to swing an axe. In my opinion a knife like this is even more easy than using an axe for dried small wooden blocks. I own a gransfors small forest axe and a Hultsbruk classic felling axe. Love them both very much. I still need a wetterlings to complete the swedish axe collection haha. I hope you understand. have a great day and stay sharp!

exactly! this is the case with the S1. Its a jack of all trades but master of none. Nice i'm going to remember that one.

Just wondering, if I want a polished look to the blade but don't want a mirror polish, whats the highest level of grit would I want in a whetstone?

It reallly is man, but 3v is worth it though. But because of the high amount of vanadium in the steel it is much harder to sharpen than COS steel.

+jcoopdo sadly we own more knives in a2 and this is the result we keep on getting for years. Our friend virtuovice has exactly the same problem. If you look at the steels and its metallurgie, you will see that this outcome is very logical. Cheers mate!

thanks man!

Wow DBK.... You go sleep right now

This is incredible! you have found out the secret. Better be calling Stephen Hawking soon because you are on to something mate!

very very thin slices (tomatoes)

Thanks man!

You are very welcome!

Just don't eat for a month and you'll have the money haha. it''s a big purchase but worth it in my opinion.

Dutch Bushcraft Knives lol Yeah, I've not checked the price yet, but I would love to try one. Right now I'm waiting on my custom Sigmora by Koster Knives from Sigma III school. I'm really looking forward to using it for bushcraft/camp tasks. My favorite has always been the High Q 2mm Mora. It's my first semi-custom knife, but the wait time has been horrible though. Keeps getting push back to sometime in October now. Grrrr......lol Thumbs up on the FS1 review!

thanks a lot! -stay sharp

What do you mean by that? The VG10 steel on the A1 and S1, provide little toughness and that's why their edges take damage (edge chiping) while the COS steel on the Pro models, doesn't chip even with the factory edge! The lateral toughness is also higher on the PRO models, because the blade is thicker. So? what do you mean by that?

@@greekveteran2715 you are correct about the vg10 steel being more prone to chipping but you are mistaken about the lateral damage and overall toughness in regards to the breaking point of the two knife models. You find a chart on their website that shows how the Classical A1 and S1 Models have a higher breaking point than the Pro Models making them the tougher blades. I was confused about it and reached out to Peter Hjortberger President of Fällkniven and he personally confirmed to me that this is indeed the case. This is in regards to the build of the Knife and not related to the VG10 Steel. Despite Cos being the tougher steel the Pro Versions break easier because of the way the different knives are build.