Another quality video!! Just a tip I'll pass along that my shop teacher would preach about. Get into a habit of putting a small rubber hose over your connecting rod bolts when installing the pistons. The bolts can easy scratch the crankshaft when tapping the piston down threw.
Did you lap the valves? And did you have to ream the ridge? And did the Cub originally have sleeves or do you have to bore it out if the pistons and rings are greater than the tolerances allow for? 😀🇨🇦
years ago i worked at ford tractor dealer and TISCO brand was the after market place we got parts they where usually cheap than ford parts and they ok usually
I’ve just about got my cub torn down for the same work. It was a smoker ever since I was a kid, and now it has lost most of its power. In a previous video, it sounded like you would be doing this work in the order that your parts showed up. Is there an advantage of doing the valves first, or would you do the pistons first if you had to do it over again?
Features I would suggest; a controllable heater, the ability to select different frequencies, (mine even has a setting to modulate frequencies automatically), a “degas” option, and of course choosing the right size for your applications.
I’ve never tried it so I can only offer a guess … I think synthetic would be ok BUT I believe the engine should be 100% flushed of the old oil before adding synthetic. Not just drained and “good enough” but 100% flushed. There are products to accomplish this. People have strong opinions on this subject so besides my guess you’d be best asking a professional mechanic also.
