@@squatch253 That old one has worn bearings. You can quieten it down by putting a couple of drops of oil on each bearing - if you can get to them! Not worth doing anything more involved than that though.
Squatch, thank you for this mini-series on the M carb! It gave me the confidence to rebuild the carb on my Super M I purchased from my grandfathers estate when he passed. I remember driving that tractor all over the farm when I worked for him during high school. Tonight, for the first time in about 5 years, it ran again! All I needed was a little adjustment on the idle speed and it runs like I remember. Brought back some great memories!
Another great build! The thing I like most about your work is that you put in the effort to make it right no matter what the part is! I know how your poor vacuum feels, that how i sound when i get out of bed in the morning.
I like the idea for the tool to support the tangs on the idle jet. Rebuilding Farmall carburetors is a task I am extremely familiar with. But, I have never seen that idea before. Thumbs up.
What a great tutorial on how to rebuild OEM carburetor. No reason to replace when you have the facility to do the maintenance. It is not easy to find repair shops that have these carburetors sitting on the shelf on an exchange status. Love that "Vac". My oldest one went up in smoke. I see there is a replacement standing by. Thanks for the great video series about carburetor rebuild.
Squatch, I think you'll find that the vac noise is a dry upper sleeve bearing in the motor. The lower bearing is usually a ball bearing. Disassemble the motor ["power head"] and lube the upper sintered bronze bushing and felt packing with good old red bottle 3in1 oil and reassemble. [Some will say to use blue bottle 3in1]. I think you'll find the noise gone and your vac will end up living longer in the end.
Been there done that, but one duty cycle back on the sandblasting cabinet dries it right back out again. We just run them like that until they quit and get another one 👍
That was great! I'm used to redoing the JD two cylinder carbs, and it's fascinating how all the details are completely different, yet functionally it does the same thing.
I always liked putting my carbs in my ultrasonic tank.i fill it with dish soap and water. I just let it go for a few hours, come back, and it's like new. I even tested just soaking the carb in cleaner then dropping it in the ultrasonic tank, i was surprised to find how much more came off of the carb. Mind you this was an unpainted carb of which i cleaned up the outside beforehand.
Very good tutorial. In my 72 years I have screwed up plenty of things like the jets getting them out. Brilliant idea but simple tool for prevention of bruising/breaking these soft parts. I ended this video with the ? question mark in my head of "How would Toby do it?" I am still a very passionate hobbyist when it comes to restoring vintage and antique machine tools. Just that question mark in my head will yield great returns in my further restorations. Too many times irreplaceable parts have become Knurled by Pipe Wrench or Channel locks. Thanks as always for bringing us along. I just noticed you do not have a super thanks button. Due to complications I have had with Patreon i can no longer use Patreon.
Evaporust is one of the few things that has worked for me 100% as advertised. I even used it to unstick 2 rust cylinders in an Allis Chalmers...and the engine still runs great with good compression.
Screwdrivers breaking the slots off of jets. It's because you're using cheap wedge shaped flat head screwdrivers. When you jamb that wedge in there you're only grabbing the very top 1000s of the slot. Or you're spreading the slot out. I do electronics work, and this is a problem with lug screws. You can buy fairly inexpensive ground flat head screwdrivers from Klien and others. The blade is ground flat the entire length. So it's not wedge shaped. That way you're using the entire depth of the slot. Home Depot carries a cheap-ish set of ground Kliens. Hardend tips too so they don't twist off.
When u r getting ready to paint don"t forget the new front wheels and weights for the M that should give you a good day or two of painting if the weather will ever cooperate be careful on your trip
So that's why the shop vac is howling. I've killed a couple premature connected to the blasting cabinet, with a dust separator AND filter in the vac. That grit still gets through.
Yep, we’ve found that trying to lube those motor bushings only catches more of that fine dust and grit - wears them out even faster. We just let them howl until they finally quit and then replace 👍
Sunday 3 PM looks like rain is covering your area hope yall got home ok and did ok at swap meet looking forward to your report send us some of that rain been 3 weeks since we had any getting dry
Yep, good weekend but we did end up leaving very early on the last day (today). Weekend recap episode already edited with the upload beginning in the next few minutes - it's a half hour long so that means about 15 hours upload time with my slow internet.
Now, I'm the weirdo who would take a dauber with some enamel White paint and hit that embossed nomenclature/part numbers because I'm like that. :P Ate up, from the floor up.
I think I would have painted the inside with glyptal too. I don't think the gas would hurt it if it was well cured. corrosion inside carbs particularly on stuff that sits is a bigger threat in my experience.
QUESTION: @5:47 re: 'Packing', so... what was better about the OEM Packing over the Modern Packing? And, considering the old OEM Packings were typically Leather, Industrial Wool Felt (with or without pressure packed lube), or Asbestos (which you can't find today for obvious reasons), and if its Leather or Industrial Wool Felt ...well... when I went into the military in the mid-80s we still had Aircraft that Leather and Industrial Wool Felt were OEM spec'd for use and easy to make.
Only you sir could make an 60plus year old carburetor look like in belongs in a showcase great job again.And carburetor belongs to some one else at that
the special tool the same kind of principle as the tube that slides down over the screwdriver head and screw seems like. Maybe I missed it but I was thinking that the felt seals needed to have a small amount of oil (not oozing) to keep shafts from wearing so much and help seal, but I could have felts seal running together in my mind too.
Haha Squatch, at the 13:58 point of this video you put the gasket on the upper part of the carb. Is it supposed to slide over the Venturi so it lays flat down on the throttle body? My gasket will not slide over the Venturi, I assumed it had to set down flat to totally seal of gas. I guess I need to modify my gasket. Any comment about this? Thank you for any help. I enjoyed all three of this series videos. Thank you for all you do to educate/entertain your followers.
Hi man. Thanks for great sharing. We've keeping eye on your channel for a while. Now we are exploring a collaboration with you in heavy equipment parts, but we did not find you contacts. If interested, plz let me know anytime. Thx❤
