Hey Tinman, I did a G888 kit a couple months ago. I snapped off two cylinder bolt heads within the first hour. Fortunately they were opposite corners so no damage! I got the nubs out and replaced them with oem and it's been going strong since. Going forward I'll be installing oem bolts in the case and cylinder. Looking forward to the rest of this series. 👍
Tinmaaaaan, glad to see you're building an aftermarket chainsaw. Looking forward to seeing how it runs Stock then have you tear it down and port the Sh.. T out of it. Then we all can see if it stands up to the added power. My guess, stock will have only a couple issues if any. Ported may develop a few issues to chase. My experience with Chinese cylinder /piston etc ported quite smoothly. The power was very good, plating didn't chip and the only thing that was bad is the carburetors as you are well aware of. We are all so very excited for you and the Mrs with the birth of your first child. Being a father of three adult children now I can honestly say it's the best thing that has ever happened to myself and my wife. Keep putting up the great content my Canadian brother.. ✌️
I built the same kit almost 2 years ago. However, knowing Chinese lack of quality I opted for the Meteor cylinder and piston, oem bearing and seals and an oem carb. I kept a better pull cord on hand and a quality spark plug. I've run the snot out of my 288 and love it. I cut my own firewood and help others cut theirs and it works fine. I wouldn't expect it to last long in an actual logging application but it's dandy for a firewood operation.
Hi Tinman, I find it works great to heat a metal plug of approximately the size of the inner bearing race. Heat the metal plug and place it on to the bearing race and let the heat transfer. This will heat up the bearing race slowly and expand the inner race of the bearing. Together with freezing the crankshaft it works 9/10 times. It does take some prep and time however. Great video again!
Great job Tinman, you have a great way of teaching and explaining thing so that an everyday guy can easily understand. Keep up the great work. Prayers for a very healthy baby. Congratulations my friend. 🤘🌳🪓
I got busy, & couldn't watch for a few days. This is glorious! I like how you put your cases together. I bought a tool. But it doesn't work with the coarse thread pto side of the 200-300 series saws, they only work on the flywheel side! So I'm like....damnit. In the past, I have used my torpedo heater plus throw a bearing in a baggy out in the snow bank. Ten minutes later, plunk. HhhhhhLike a Glove! I saw Walt do that too. But he used his woodstove. This last time with my 61, I did what you did here with my heat gun, & had the crank in my freezer. I'm digging your dry humor in this btw, lmao. I'm gonna watch all 3 parts tonight.
Good time on the build. I'm replacing the bearings on my 288 kit since one of them has a flat spot on it. I had to have Huztl send me another cylinder because the plating was peeled off the one I received. I won't be using the Huztl cylinder for long because I caught the Hyway 288 P/C kit on sale from HL for $54 plus shipping, I will use the Huztl P/C to get my port numbers then put the Hyway set on. Usually I deck the cylinder base and do a base gasket delete but if there is enough material on the base of the cylinder I think I will leave the gasket this time. I'll trim the cylinder ring away at the base where they lowers are to get better flow and start adjusting my timing from there. The original Tillotson carbs that came with these had the enriching jet (like the CS-590's do) so I'm going to run it like that and see if I need to do a block off on that as well. The tank/rear handle on mine came with one of the isolators stripped out by them so I have to fix that as well but I'm replacing the rubber isolators (antivibe) with spring isolators. Going with a lot of OEM parts as well. I using a OEM muffler with the spark arrestor screen and will turn the deflector around and have it point forward and push the internal diverter back for better flow and placing a second screen/deflector on the other side for a dual port muffler to help the restriction of the screens. It will be interesting to see what port numbers you come up with, I've heard these port close to what the 372's do on duration's.
Hi tinman ,put one of the 288 kits together back in March , went well ,I did have the husqvarna crank puller kit ,worked great, little different design with the clutch side seal in the oil pump , did some port work and clean up ,add a pop up piston, haven't run it much yet , but with the muffler mod , she sure barks .one thing that drove me nuts was a large rubber grommet in the kit , took me a while to figure out that it goes on the handle right above the clutch cover . Couldn't have done it without you and Harvey's videos .
I‘ve done a few low ends but it is always entertaining to see how you are doing things - every time I learned new things. My procedure is heating up the case halves in the oven (60°C) and put the crank in the freezer. If it’s still too tight, and the bolts won‘t grab, I just use longer ones and gently pull that thing together. Looking forward to the next episode!
Hey Tinman, like the video. Can’t wait to see the follow-up vids. I did a top end rebuild (my first build) on my beloved ‘86 281xp that got me into felling & forestry related work. It hadn’t been run in over 20 years and I learned a ton in the process. Was able to salvage the original cylinder and piston and it’s running like a champ, but I bet I’ll have to do a full rebuild at some point. I’ve already invested in the parts for when the time comes and plan on turning it into a 288xp. This and the following vids will be a huge help for when the time comes to pull the trigger on that project. Cheers from Little Falls, MN….“Beauman” the lumberdork.
Definitely the best way to find out if the crank holds up give her 25-50 hrs of run time completely stock as the kit comes then turn up the #'s and see if it cam last the same amount of hrs if it does then it's definitely a good bottom end if not we'll now we know haha.
So stoked for the FT build!! Been happy with my g660 pro so far. And just may order a 372 FT kit this fall/winter. Love the near daily uploads❤ but family first buddy😊👍
Hurry up! Really good stuff you are doing, got the saw bug and have acres of wood to “ test “ on. The clone saws are on my mind being retired and low budget, but don’t want to invest in disposable junk. Wanna see the chips fly! Finally found the majik sealant you use, thanks. Can’t wait for the porting and results video! Back to work.
Im gunna get a couple of kits for my homeschool class. I figger just starting with new parts would be a good foundation for mechanical work and a great learning experience.
The other way to get the crank to fit would be to toss it in the freezer overnight to shrink it just enough to fit. This is a common practice with heavy equipment, in some cases people use dry ice or liquid nitrogen for a quicker cooling. Also you could use aviation form a gasket paste that comes in a can to hold the gasket in place, I used to use it for all kinds of stuff especially things like rad hoses and to hold intake manifold gaskets and never had a leak. Was taught that by a very experienced auto tech.
You can make the puller using 2 large fine thread bolts and nuts and some large washers and a piece of pipe to sit against the inner race . Drill and tap the bolts using the appropriate thread pitch. Pretty easy and inexpensive tool to make. I used a set of their cases to rebuild a 2172 that had a cracked , flywheel side case. Nice option for older saws that are getting hard to find parts for. Biggest problem with these kits are guys trying to pass them off as real saws on buy and sell groups. I called a few out already. Buyer beware!
I was just about to pull the trigger on one of these 288 kits, figured it would be a fun one. By the way I sent you an email recently, never heard anything would love to chat about some saw work. I think Buckin or Harvey will vouch for me. I know your busy though no worries!
I’ve got a messed up head of a plastic deadblow that I tend to use for moving things like you used to slightly move that crankshaft around. It works well for a lot of things and I don’t know what I’ll do when it’s to far gone to use on other things except spend the money that I don’t have on another one similar. Oh well.
What are your thoughts on the crankshafts in general. And if I have a slight chip where the e clip goes are they salvageable the e clip would still probably cover 85% of it
When the engine comes to a stop, there's some bounce back, and it avoids tearing up recoil starters and pull ropes. Try it a couple times, you will feel the pull back....
For some reason in both bottom ends I e built, both stihls I e had to put my case splitter back in on the bearing after assembly and just give the bearing a minor tweak. Could not get it to loosen up with a hammer until I did that. Is it right? I dunno but it worked
Those cranks are junk tinman I'll just let you know I've put a dozen of those kits saws together and I wound up buying a better crank from NWP witch is a better crank
