Tinman, I am a backwoods man from the rural forests of Pennsylvania. Right on the Appalachian trail. Saws are a part of my life from the time I was small enough to remember. I always knew enough to keep them running and proper use but it didnt go much further than that. I just want to say thank you for your videos and your knowledge. You have taught me a lot about the inner workings of these tools. I am much more confident in the thought of having to repair or nurse a chainsaw through a job while I am in the woods now because of you and your knowledge. Just wanted to say that I appreciate your time making these videos. Also I realize this video is a year old so I hope you see this comment. Anyways, thanks again Tinman. You are awesome!
I just did a Husqvarna 268 Same bottom end on the oil pump side. I put the seal in the oil pump flush. It was a no go. When I ran the saw it had a small air leak. I actually had to let the seal hang out of the back of the oil pump. When I ,installed the oil pump the outer lip of the seal actually wasnt sealed completely on the crank until I moved the seal out.
Nice work Tinman. That was a very smooth bottom end assembly. Thanks for taking the time to explain the different ways to assemble a bottom end. Look forward to see how the rest of the build goes.
Again a great video. Thanks for every advice. I got a bad bearing on my 357xp and I'm preparing to take it apart and replace it. I'm not doing any porting, just bearings and seals replacement.
THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIPS BUDDY IM JUST ABOUT TO REDO MY 266SE AT THE END OF THE MONTH ,FIREWOOD SEASON ,BRAND NEW EVERYTHING CANT WAIT,HAVE A GREAT DAY BUDDY BE SAFE
Great video, you hit the nail on the head when you said a lot of people are intimidated by working on crankcases. I would have never attempted anything like that before but after watching this I would. Thanks for this and all your other great videos.
''I fumbled my way through my first few bottom ends, and it scared me''. Hehe. Nice install of bearings Tinman. I see guys installing bearings with blocks of wood and sockets to hammer them in, and not pushing on the right part of the bearing and it makes me cry. Those ceramic bearings are going to sing, can't wait. Cheers
I am enjoying all this content you are putting out. Picking up many tips and tricks. Awesome work Tinman. Can't wait to see what you can do with a McCulloch 10-10.
You made that 266 bottom end look easy I cant wait to see more of it I think it's going to be a super fun saw I bet you're excited for buckin to come visit you tinman hahaha
Excellent tutorial TinMan. I could add, for those of us working in the heat of Summer without a frig handy, canned air (for cleaning computer keyboards) works great to chill shrink bearings or crankshaft journals. Turn the can upside down and spray the propellant on the item to be chilled/shrunk.
Good stuff ! Just ordered g372xp and thinking of upgrading the bearings . American made GM autos had a mixture of sae and metric fasteners in the 80s and 90s
Hi Tinman. Love the latest instalment. You make it look so easy. My experience only extends to press fitting bottom bracket bearings on my road bike. But the principles are roughly the same . Not sure there's the same tolerance between cast alloy on a powersaw and a carbon fibre bike frame. Looking forward to the next video. Bucking BR is going to own one heck of a saw 👍
I've never split the cases on a saw but I have split the cases on two stroke dirt bikes. I like dry ice and the kitchen oven. Shrink what you have to shrink with dry ice for about 30 minutes and bake what you need to expand at 150f about the same amount of time. Don't worry about the crank seals if they've already been installed as long as you don't exceed 200f. I like to overdo it on the cooling and heating just in case I need to maneuver after it's put together. The dry ice works really good when you get to the halfway point. When you just have to shrink the bearing thats on the crank but you don't want to chill the whole case and make the gasket sealant get too thick and not want to adhere. A CR250 bottom end is about the size of a 20 lb turkey and if you're like me I've got too much junk in the freezer to fit in there. So it's the dry ice for me. I cut the bottom out of a styrofoam cup set it on top of the bearing with the crankshaft end sticking out of the cup and then crumble up the dry ice and pour in the cup around the crankshaft and make sure it's touching the bearing in the bottom. When you see Frost forming on the bearing it's ready. Take the case half out of the oven and slap it together. Even though you're using an oven and dry ice still need to be working pretty quickly. You also need to work out bearing depth before you do the operation. Like he said you need some way of knowing how far to push the bearing. A good rule of thumb is to take pictures and measurements before disassembling.
Did you guys see buckin running tinmans pro 70 32" bar pulling full bar full house chain never skipped a beat impressive. Way to go tinman can't wait to see how this 266 turns out.
I use the spit metheod when it sizzles I put er in never had factory pulleys use that method and made custom blocks for different situations cheers bud good job
I can't believe the flywheel side went on so easily! All the bearings and the clutch side went "shunk", then you went "duunk" on flywheel side. Chainsaw sounds are important! LOL
A cheapo toaster oven from a yardsale should work awesome. If your a brave man that doesn't mind the abuse you can stick them in the oven at 350. "YOURE COOKING A CHAINSAW?!?!?!" Was the last response I got. Of course the glutton for punishment in me had to respond "I've already washed it in the washer and dryer so its clean". 350 seems to be the magic number for the cases to accept bearings.
Hey Tinman! I’m loving watching the progress for this build! Think you could talk about some of the costs associated with doing a build like this? And maybe a little on the costs for a well done port job? Keep it up brother!
Like the Tinman says, make sure you remove the O rings from the oil pump... they melt. If you need new O rings, don't overpay for them. Go to mcmaster-carr.com and plug this in. Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring, 1.6 mm Wide, 29.1 mm ID, Packs of 100.
Have you tried a Cylindrical Roller Bearing on the chain side? They can't be used on both sides, but I've heard of people using them in drag racing 2 strokes on the drive side.
If the rod bearing on the crank is bad can the crank be separated to replace it? Or do you have to get a new crank/rod assembly no matter what? Great videos tinman. Thank you have a blessed day
