A video to help you get off on the right foot for building Fascinations 3D Metal Earth model kits. Covers the basics. PLEASE NOTE: I have added a NEW video on TOOLS. You can see a list of all my videos at / blueholebob .
I have completed about 20 of these models. They are far from easy. I have had a few that I ruined during assembly. So frustrating and so satisfying. I love these. They will stress you, test your skill and eyesight. They are not for a person who has difficulty paying proper attention to detail. Once they are completed, they are absolutely worthy of display. I relish the hours that I put into each one.
@@echoedge6361 I have bent pieces incorrectly and broken them trying to correct my error. Unfortunately, my eyesight and fine motor control has deteriorated to the point that I can no longer build these kits. So, I guess that even though I now lose the satisfaction of completing them, I no longer have to deal with the frustration of breaking them. I hope your next one and all that follow will come out perfectly.
I just bought one of these (this exact one) I had no idea I would need so many tools. I thought I was a moron bc I couldnt get all this done with my fingers. I just found a kit on line, thanks to you XOX...wish me luck
Laura: I just saw your comments. By now, you might have finished your kit. I put out a video on tools, although you definitely do not need all of them. Some early vids on Metal Earth kits did a dis-service by showing part removal and bending with nothing but fingers. Here's my best wish for continued luck with a fun hobby! :)
Thank you for this. I saw a metal earth star wars spreader and couldn't stop myself from buying it. Now I'm prepared for the build and I know what to expect.
Hi I just made my first model today. One observation: you don't need to cut out all the pieces - make the minumim cuts so you can rock the piece back and forth across 2-3 points and it will fall out on its own. Some pieces only have two points so there is no need to cut at all.
Hi, thanks for sharing this great video about how to put together these kits. I bought one today and I was wondering how to put it together, I didn't want to ruin it and here I found your video, well explained. Thanks a lot.
I took all the pieces out, used post it notes on the sticky part and wrote all the numbers, cut them out and put on the correct part. You could also use a marker on the back part that no one will see to number them. Trust me, it makes it so much easier.
This tutorial was exactly what I was looking for - so many tutorials had auto-focus enabled or their hands out of frame for the important parts, and you clearly explained the "obvious" portions that I had questions about. An aside, my hands generally shake as badly as yours do in the 7 minute mark -- you clearly demonstrated performing a cut despite doing this AROUND your camera setup, and seeing this was very encouraging as you were still able to make clean cuts. As long as I go slowly, I'll be able to do this. Thank you!
Thank you Sir! I am moments away from beginning the Motor Grader MMS421. My first model to ever build. I had a feeling this model would be a little more advance than I should start with. Your video made me feel more confident in this new hobby of mine. Thank you. Keep them coming!
Thank you so much for your video. I bought my first kit today. The Titanic. I have my jewllery tool kit, that will be perfect to assemble all the pieces. :)
G'day just watched your video on Metal Earth. Your tips are very cool. I've been building these for about 12 months now and have completed about 30 kits. A couple of the tips you've explained have helped me. One tip I may pass on is, read ahead on some of the sub assemblies, as you could loose access to the twists or folds later. Thanks again, greetings from Perth Western Australia. Cheers.
A G'day to you too, mate. :) Since the video, I have built more kits, and like you, have gained some tips through experience. I now keep super glue close to my tools. Some of the more challenging kits benefit from glue, or worse, make glue a necessity. The purists would likely scoff at this, but it's better than tossing a kit into the can. Thanks for your note.
Thank you. The guitar looks fantastic by the way. They don't cost much and some are really complex. I might just take the plunge and give one a try. Thank you so much.
Thank you! I just found one of these models (Black Pearl (larger version)), I was wondering how to go about it as the instructions are accurate but dont offer any tips to help make the experience successful. Your video for a first timer is awesome and I look forward to put it together.
Thank you kind sir I've bought three kits, the batmobile, a Suzuki motorcycle and the mandalorian character from the star wars franchise and they look intimidating as I'm sure you know. Especially Mando as he is a person with fingers, gadgets and a round helmet and now that I've seen this I will definitely use your methods to take on this project. Thanks.
Thank you for this! I started to try to cut a Hubble Telescope model with a straight edge, and I was having a difficult time. I'm going to invest in a pair of cutters.
I find useing craft beading pliers and fine tweesers work rly well it helps to have alligator clip stands or a piece of wax clay to hold your work down
Thank you so much for sharing. Recieved some kits for Christmas. Was wondering how to work with them. I'm used to the old school plastic and glue kits.
Lance: I also have a base in plastic (and some metal) kits as a wee lad. Mostly cars and some aircraft. However, many of the same attributes of a model builder apply to the Metal Earth kits. These would have patience at the top of the list, followed by great care in following the instructions, and having the right tools. The ONE drawback in these metal kits is the lack of forgiveness. They cannot be sanded, filled, or taken apart (at least not easily), and test fitting can be a challenge. My biggest beef with the manufacturer is the absence of bending template diagrams in the instructions, requiring you to judge the right amount of "bend" or curve. The kits have improved from some of the earlier versions, both with assembly and instructions. That said, I have had my share of failures, so my best advice would be to stick with it, until you develop a few basics. The finished kits can be really handsome. Good luck.
Just bought some tools and the space needle kit. Can't wait to get at it! Thanks for the tips! Also thanks for showing me these! P.S. Hope your Wave cable and internet service is doing good :)
Never done one of these and just ordered the Apollo CSM, one of the hardest. Fingers crossed. :-) PS: Only ever did plastic or paper models before, so we shall see how it goes.
Thank you so much for this I have 3 I got for my birthday but I don’t want to bend them so I wanted to know how to do it well so I don’t have to toss it but I think I can do it I love these models but it’s a little hard I got a lev 3-1-5 but I will start low and go high thx for the helping video
Thank you. I just started making a model but I already broke one of the pieces that is supposed to bend while folding it. Is there any way to fix it or is it ruined?
You are not alone! This has happened to me several times. I have been able to fix broken pieces using mostly super glue, but have also used caulk (great way if it doesn't show). You might need to find ways of propping up the pieces for support while the glue dries. After the initial application dries, I reinforce the joint with more glue. I have built one brass kit (the "gold" color) and they are particularly prone to breaking, often with just a second bend.
I´ve have an experience of 9 of those models and I must say you have explained quite well the basics. I differ from your strategy by just cutting out the needed pieces for a step or a few of them. Not the whole model.
First, I identify the pieces in number sequence by matching the drawing to the pieces on the metal sheet, and writing the number on the diagram of the piece layout. Then, I cut 16 pieces at a time and place them on a large, numbered clipboard, and assemble them in numerical sequence from the instruction sheet. After building several, I prefer this method versus searching for pieces a few at a time. In summary, I write the piece numbers on the diagram, cut in sequence, assemble in sequence. That said, there is no "one right way" that suits everyone. Thanks.
Didn’t know they had a guitar, that one will be my next purchase. My eyesight is not what it used to be, and I’m not as young as I once was. I recently purchased a “helping hands” thing that has four bendable arms with alligator clips on the end (with rubber sleeves to protect whatever it’s holding) along with an LED lit magnifying lens. Oh my God, the difference this thing makes is like night and day. I’m in the process of building the fire engine, and I realized I needed some help. I was working with a flash light, reading glasses, and really struggling. I love modeling but I no way was I going to finish this build so I started looking on Amazon for something with possible arms, a light and magnifying glass. It came just a few days ago and now I’m almost done with the fire engine. I received the Space Shuttle for Christmas, that’s next, then the next one I buy is going to be the guitar. Nice video, and for anyone else who is getting up there in age (I can’t even feel some of these parts in my fingers) there are things/tools out there that can help. Happy modeling!
Having done a couple of these I appreciate your tips! However, I would recommend not cutting out all the pieces at once, especially if you're not going to assemble the whole model in one sitting. I would recommend just cutting out the pieces you need for each step as you are accomplishing it.
That is a smart way to do it for sure, if you have a kit that has lots of pieces. You can also number the pieces using small post it notes or a sharpie marker on the back part no one sees. I had to do that because I took all the parts out doing the Beatles drum set, and it was so confusing. A lot of pieces look the same.
I just decided to begin a new hobby with these. Being an experienced modeller like you. Thanks for this video. Above all it encouraged me still doing fine with apparently the same curse I have. Essential tremor. Your hands shake terribly and you still managed it. There is no cure for the disease, it is hereditary, and gets worse with age. My mother, now 80, has it so bad she can barely hold a coffee cup. Beta blockers like Propral help a bit. But when it gets worse, nothing else really helps than a hefty dose of alcohol. And I'm gonna get rid of that problem. You just showed me you can do it. So I can, too.
Hi! Thanks so much for the video! I really need help with the guitars...i have 3 of them 😮I bought 4 metal models of The Beatles instruments...started with the drum set...I almost tossed it out the window because I have jewelry tools, and could not get those little tabs to bend at all! I ended up having to use glue just to get them to stay. I never thought it would be so hard. I finally finished it after 3 months on and off. It doesn't look great, but I'm creating a stage with their instruments. Yesterday, I opened the guitar (John's), and was happy to see large pieces and only 1 sheet of the metal. I thought it would be a breeze. The first step was to put the strings on the guitar, but first put the riser on the neck. That thing refused to stay in. I used scotch tape to hold it in place, bent the tabs and they stayed. Gotta take a break from it because I'm doing other crafts.
Photo etched plates are usually brass or zinc, which is rather "soft" and can be easily damaged or scratched. I've built roughly 10 Metal Earth kits with minimal difficulty. Some of the larger kits, will probably have to be soldered together.
I'm not a metallurgist, but I use photo-etched parts for model building. These kits are not photo-etched. I believe they are laser cut from thin steel. For some problem areas or mistakes, I have resorted to super glue, but have not had to solder anything. Thanks for your comments.
@@ChrisLogan787 I was very surprised at the guitar, which was my first kit...went together easily. The piano looked hard, but went well. Straight line buildings are also pretty good, but some bridges that look easy are not. Once you get a few kits under your belt, you will have better luck with rounding, which is always a challenge for me.
Jennifer: There are times when it is very difficult to see if the "tab" is in the "slot." When I am uncertain about a fit, I use a jeweler's loupe, although just about any magnifier would probably work; otherwise, it is probably better to have a normal view of what you are doing. I will also admit to using super glue at least a few times per model. A purist would likely scoff at this, but there are times that a tight bond is preferable to a loose fitting piece.
The curves are super intimidating!! I have no experience in modelling and thought these looked cool so I got some. I am not sure if I will be able to find anything with the exact right diameter and am worried about making the curves to small because the metal is just so easy to bend.
You can watch the "tools" video I made. There are lots of options for rolling the pieces, including drill bits and transfer punches. Thinking out of the box for larger diameters will turn up possibilities, including dowel rods and other round objects. Etsy has some specialty tools from Animate Orange and other small dealers.
Muchas gracias, tus consejos me serán de ayuda, acabo de comprar uno de los más épicos. Pero compraré antes las herramientas que dices y modelos más sencillos para practicar, porque realmente lo quiero para exhibir en el librero
I started to get the guitar but I got a scorpion and I got my dad the trackhoe he has more patience than me I really liked the oil pump thing you see out in middle of nowhere
Have you ever tried soldering the gaps? I bet the stainless would hold up to the heat but its probably not as easy as glue. Would be cool to have all the gaps filled with metal to complete the look
On occasion, I use super glue to reinforce weak joints, where tabs do not provide enough strength. Otherwise, I rely on careful forming and testing fit to assemble a kit. That said, a few kits have been so poorly designed or instructed, that the only solution is to resort to an admission of failure and open the next one. The winners far outnumber the regrets, and continue to give me a fun way to spend time. I offer my rule of thumb: If the finished model passes the viewing distance test, as opposed to a closeup examination looking for flaws, I consider it worthy of display, even if it requires a tweaked angle of display to cover a tiny gap. Bluehole Bob
So how does the guitar sound when played? ........ Just kidding! Excellent tutorial, thank you so much. I’m looking at the Queen Anne’s Revenge model on Amazon now. Looks like I’ll be getting a tool kit as well.
Rutger: If you are new to kit building, I would recommend trying round object like ping pong balls or golf balls, or other, to help shape sails, which might be a challenge. Also, if you haven't seen it, I have a video on just tools that is more complete than this basic video. Have fun!
If this man can build one with the way he shakes I can build one too, no disrespect btw. Thank you for all the tips, very useful. Also I am totally using the same organization technique
Hi John: You're not the first to comment on my shakiness. While at my age, I do have slight tremors, try building a metal earth kit with your arms wrapped around a video camera at close-up zoom. No disrespect taken. :)
I just bought a star destroyer (same one at 7:00) and the part that held the very top bridge with the 2 domes, the folds all broke. Any ideas on what to do? I have a small solder pen, but would that ruin the kit?
You are not alone! Just tossed an AT-AT model a few days ago. Some kits have flimsy attachments that are supposed to hold up too much weight or will not balance. I have not tried solder, because the usual parts are too small or need to be supported. My first goto is super glue, where I can hold the part while it dries. Then, I add more glue. I have also used scraps from kits as support pieces, if it doesn't show. If the kit is a poor design, and the joints are too weak, repairs will usually fail. All that said, a kit tossed into the garbage is a rare occurrence for me. My biggest success with a poorly designed kit was a Star Wars TIE Fighter. Good Luck. Bluehole Bob
I bought the Cat Bulldozer. I spent two hours at least on just steps one and two. Pieces broke and now I’m out twenty bucks that I spent on this model. Do I have to scrap the kit? Any tips?
I feel your pain! More than once, I have had a broken or ruined part, and frankly, a few kits were so unrecoverable that they ended up in the can. That said, there are two approaches to take. One, try to repair the part with super glue or with scraps glued to the part for reinforcement. I have repaired a few parts that surprised me, when it actually worked. Two, you can leave out damaged parts, particularly if they don't show, or the model can be turned, hiding the area.
That's the spirit! It took two dirigible kits to get that one right, but I gave up on the scorpion after one attempt. Most others will reach the end. :)
What annoys me is that when I catch the tab witch tweezers to twist it, I first bend it slightly and then I try to push it down with teezers to bend it flat to the surface 90 degrees. But when I do that I end up bending all the structures below it. Any hint for beginner?
You are right...not as easy as we think. There are 3 ways I overcome this issue. 1. Use your thumbnail to flatten the tab. 2. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to apply pressure without pressing hard enough to transfer pressure to other layers. 3. After a bit of practice, you can use thin-nose or chain-nose pliers by applying more pressure to the top of the tab than to the bottom layers. I use this technique most often when trying to flatten tabs sitting on top of a fragile layer.
I usually lose about 4 out of 5 parts when they pop out of my tweezers and get lost in my carpeting. I just toss the rest of the kit away. Fun fun fun.
NOT a stupid question! While I have never cut myself while working on a model, it doesn't mean it couldn't happen. There are no "sharp" edges on the sheets, but removing the parts from the sheet can leave nubs that might scratch or cut. Using flush cutters would minimize any rough edges. Overall, if you handle the sheets and part removal with a bit of care, it seems to be a low risk of scrapes and cuts. Bluehole Bob
I just finished a kawasaki gpz900r. I started to through it in the trash several times but hung in there and finished it. Turned out pretty good but not great.
Badman: I have not built this kit, but have tossed more than one into the trash out of frustration. Fortunately, these bummers are in the minority. My skill level has increased along with the number of models that survive and make it to display. The fun is definitely relative to building experience. Hang in there! Bluehole Bob
Thank you, but just one problem... one of my pieces broke and I do not know how to fix it. I tried using tape, but that just doesn't work, could I use SHOE GOO to seal it back together??? Best Regards,
Breaking parts is not uncommon. Many times, there is not enough surface for gluing. Depending on what you are repairing, you can try to fashion a support piece from scrap to gain enough space to add glue, especially if the repair is not visible.
If you are referring to removing pieces from the steel sheet, then how to do it seems to be a personal choice. I use mini flush cutters, because they don't bend the pieces and leave a very close cut edge. That said, I have seen just about everything on how to separate pieces. The only one I advise against is removing pieces by twisting or bending back and forth. :)
