Subscribed, thank you so much for the beautiful music, instead of looping lofi in the background for 10 minutes 😭 Photos were great! I love the atmosphere you created.
The texture and colors are sooo different. I really understand that "digital look" that people talk about now, and although it doesn't bother me like others may feel, I can definitely see the difference and I really like it
@@whoschrischu Soooo diferent for sure! I love digital too but film will always get my heart! And if you shoot film constantly there's no way you can't see the difference! Thank's for the answer man!!
You should definitely check with your lab if they are able to provide TIF-files or 16-Bit JPEGs, since that format does exist by now. It would be a shame to waste all the money for Portra and then get only 8-Bit JPEGs! But the good thing is, that you still got the negatives and send them to a different lab, in case they f'ed it up in the first instance.
What are you using to meter? +1 stop doesn’t change much of anything on Portra or 400H. Some of these look like +4. Worth noting that a lot of labs aren’t properly creating ICC look up tables and the color correction is left to their own interpretation. Get flat scans from the lab, don’t let them apply any sort of contrast, saturation, or tonal curves. The difference between an 8 bit JPG and 14 bit TIFF is nominal on a nice flat scan. Or just pick up a V600 and do it yourself. Medium format scans are a breeze even on flatbeds.
Very good pictures: I am interested on buying a RB67 but I have heard this model has a lot of mechanical troubles so you must take it to repair frecuently , is it true? does it worth it? thx
You should think about scanning with your dslr with a macro and using negative lab pro to convert - you'll have a lot more control to mess around with your film images after.
one note on the 'outro', the piece sign is with the PALM FACING US!!, the way you did it, looks like a (discrete) rude finger!!, as the hand is facing the SAME way!!
Hi from France! Awesome video! This camera is a tool for sure, built for success! I have a question about the film. You marked that it was overexposed +1 stop, but how do you process it in the lab? at 400 or at 200 ISO? Thanks for the great content, it is a pleasure to watch it!
Hi Man, great video! When you say you're metering for the highlights, do you mean the brightest part of the frame or the brightest part of the subjects face? Also what are you using to meter? Thanks!
How were those beach ones so bright? The lighting looks so dark! Was it lighter than it looks on video? These are so good, your channel is really great
It's time to do your own scanning with a DSLR & negative lab pro maybe. Those photos on the beach were sick. Wouldn't want to leave it all up to the lab
I highly recommend the Mamiya setup (no bias) because of its lens choices. Greatest go-around Mamiya is the Mamiya 7, and the RB/RZ system are incredible for portraits (no bias)
I find that success rate is either held to a standard for exposure, or is very subjective and based on how we feel about the images. I don't know if a true success rate is achievable without bias.
If you ask for .tiff files you can do a lot with those images. It’s basically like a .raw file. Fyi and the image is flatter so you can color it your way !
good shoot, and nice model 🙂 but two errors in the first 5 minutes, that I noticed, first, you didn't wind_on properly, NOT only one cycle of the film winding handle, takes 5 or 6 to allign the first frame (number 1); second error, at aprox 5 minute mark, beach shoot, you have the "multi-exposure mode ON!- you CAN multi expose with this switch this way, the "safety system" is OFF, the shutter WILL fire regardless if you wind on or NOT; however, if the RED dot is COVERED, the shutter will NOT fire, unless a wind-on occurs ( red 1/2 marker on film back goes away)- this is a Second warning flag, to say "you are in iminent danger of double exposing this shot!!" so be careful, this is a MANUAL camera and every step matters, and is crutial to getting a good shot.
yes, at 8:12 there is a difference if a lab does it, as they assume N = 0 development, ALL the time, if you say NOTHING, and if you over exposed, probably an under development might have been a good thing ?( N - 1 {stop}; N-2); one other way is to say it to the lab, by saying you "exposed this at iso xxxx ", being the 1 or 2 stops over exposed you did ie: if one stop, and BOX speed is 100, then say I metered this @ 200 then they "get it", and do the right thing, KNOWING what YOU did on the camera!!- and that it was INTENTIONAL, not an 'amateur' mistake with your metering!! ( that is to adjust the contrast of the scene in front of you, the light that fell on it, so as NOT to get a flat photo, but one that 'pop's' ).
Contact your lab for tiff files if you can pay for higher resolution! Maybe you could invest $180 for a v550 scanner and scan it to have a higher resolution!
